A Beginner’s Guide to Face Oil

face oils
Photographed by Jason Kibbler, Vogue, April 2016

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After a lifetime spent slathering on oil-free moisturizers and serums—and assuming that doing otherwise would make my oily skin even oilier—I was skeptical when my facialist Mzia Shiman recently suggested I give facial oil a try. I gave in, and to my surprise, it actually healed my skin from the inside out. Now, as temperatures get cooler, I begin to wonder: Are all face oils created equal? Can I continue with this miracle product that worked well in the spring and summer even as winter approaches? “Yes,” says French facialist Isabelle Bellis, “but use the right oil.”

The right oil, of course, depends on your skin type. In the summer, skin produces more sebum, the facial glands responsible for oil secretion, while during the cooler months, production is decreased. "It’s best to use lighter oils, like apricot oil during the day, if you have oily skin,” Bellis explains. Acne-prone clients should look to drier oils, such as jojoba, hazelnut, and sesame, while those with dehydrated skin should opt for coconut, almond, or shea butter. And because even a low dose of cloudy day SPF can be drying, Bellis suggests using a heavier winter oil at night, no matter your skin type. “Face oils serve to strengthen and protect the natural fat in the skin, which is necessary for proper hydration,” she says.

Those still afraid of breakouts, listen up: “Oils can help stabilize and regulate the overproduction of sebum, and actually help get rid of acne,” says Bellis, who advises clients to use Joëlle Ciocco face oil, which is formulated with Vitamin A, E and a rich blend of omega-6 fatty acids to calm, repair, and protect the skin. It’s essential not to “over-exfoliate,” she says, adding that an appropriate oil will balance out “your skin’s ecosystem and protect it from the external environment.” Here, a guide to the season's best oils to help get all skin types glowing in no time.