It's strawberry season: We go beyond Hoods with an Oregon-grown taste test

It's not all about Hoods.

Don't get me wrong, Hoods are great. Spectacular, even. The petite strawberries are melt-in-your-mouth flavor bombs. But because they're so popular in Oregon, they're nearly gone by the time they are harvested.

And that same melt-in-your-mouth quality means they break down too quickly to be used for freezing or in pies.

To bridge that gap, Oregon State University created the Shuksan, a sturdier berry with the same punch as a Hood. It joins a long line of strawberries that grow in Oregon each spring and summer.

Oregon is the third-largest strawberry growing state -- a very distant third. Florida and California feed the world's strawberry-craving population while Oregon tends to provide niche strawberries that don't ship long distances as well but taste -- many Oregonians think -- better for it.

The beloved Hoods were introduced in 1965, according to the Oregon Strawberry Commission. They are now one of three varieties that make up 70 percent of the state's strawberry production.

But dozens of varieties were bred to thrive in Oregon, and more grow here naturally. You might find Tillamooks or Bentons at the farmers market, or newer-to-Oregon varieties like the miniature Honeoye.

Josh Alsberg at Rubinette Produce Market, a small vegetable and fruit stand in the Providore Fine Foods complex, usually stocks between three and five varieties at a time. He works with small farms to stock strawberries that were grown without pesticides that have deep red color and can hold up well on the store shelves for a few days.

Of course, the most important thing is that people like like it. "I'm always looking for just a great-tasting strawberry."

We tasted five, including Hoods, and most people would be happy with any of them. But, there are slight nuances that Alsberg uses to direct customers to a certain variety depending on how they plan to use it.

"The varieties are vastly different and just a little bit different at the same time. They're all good for different purposes and they like to have different flavors and textures."

Alsberg also recommended asking a few questions from your berry seller that he uses to figure out what he wants to stock:

  • What are your growing practices? He tries to stick with farms that don't use pesticides, but everyone has different thresholds of what they want.
  • When were these berries harvested? If it rained the day the strawberries were picked, they might be prone to molding quickly. You can dry them out on your counter when you get them home, Alsberg said. Or, if they are starting to go, cut them in half and stick them in the freezer on a baking sheet.
  • Whether they were grown in full sun or partial shade will determine how juicy or sweet they are. Sometimes berry flavor can even fluctuate within one pint, so be patient and try a few before picking your favorite.

-- Molly Harbarger

mharbarger@oregonian.com
503-294-5923
@MollyHarbarger

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