Fall 2015 (Vol. 49) by Food & Dining Magazine

FALL 2015 | AUG - SEP - OCT

feature

restaurant guide 1,200 restaurant listings and maps to them all 44

equus celebrates 30 years 28 (pictured) Parmesan-encrusted sea bass from Equus.

chef Q&A logan sandoval

profile over the nine 36

gordon biersch lagers 14|undervalued wines 16 grilled pizza party 22|$10 challenge 12 cooking with pork shoulder 42|humor

www.foodanddine.com

NOW

FREE

FALL 2015 PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF RON MIKULAK BUSINESS MANAGER BRIANA MORGAN PHOTOGRAPHERS DAN DRY ANDY HYSLOP COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR ASHLEE CLARK THOMPSON JAY FORMAN ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD CONTRIBUTING WRITERS CARLA CARLTON STEVE COOMES MICHAEL L. JONES CONTRIBUTING COLUMNISTS TODD ANTZ SCOTT HARPER GORDON “GORDO” JACKSON JOHN JOHNSON CHRIS ZABOROWSKI MAGAZINE DESIGN AND LAYOUT JOHN CARLOS WHITE GRAPHIC DESIGN ED ROTHER STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITOR CARLA CARLTON SALES MANAGER GINA R. WOLFE ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE ANNETTE B. WHITE

Food & Dining Magazine® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 (502) 509-EATS (3287)

www.foodanddine.com facebook.com/foodanddine

@FoodAndDining For Advertising information call 502.509.3287 (EATS) Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. *Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.

ON THE COVER: Parmesan-encrusted sea bass from Equus (see story page 28) Photo by Dan Dry 4

Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

04-05_Contents_fall15_Contents_for Robin.qxd 8/1/15 2:42 PM Page 5



FALL 2015 - VOLUME 49

RESTAURANT GUIDE

DINING GUIDE Our comprehensive listing of over 1,200 area restaurants complete with reviews.

MAPS (RESTAURANT LOCATOR)

Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on these user-friendly maps — a unique resource you can’t find elsewhere.

FEATURES

EQUUS TURNS 30 Since 1985, Dean Corbett has led Equus to become one of Louisville’s most respected and busiest restaurants.

OVER THE 9 New small plates restaurant Over the 9 ventures across the hypothetical Ninth St. barrier in this report from Carla Carlton.

CHEF Q&A Sway’s Chef Logan Sandoval sits down for a little Q&A with Michael L. Jones.

COLUMNS STARTERS

COMINGS & GOINGS A summary of changes on the local restaurant scene, with openings, closings, moves and more.

HUMOR Our humor guy’s texts try to justify his missed deadline.

$10 CHALLENGE: Toonerville Deli

Budget dining maven Ashlee Clark Thompson finds an abundance of Reuben variations among the delights at Toonerville Deli.

LIQUIDS

HIP HOPS: Gordon Biersch Our authority on beer matters, Roger A. Baylor, finds much to savor in Gordon Biersch’s cool-brewed lagers.

CORK 101: Undervalued wines

Our panel of experts pick bottles that give considerably more pleasure for relatively fewer bucks.

FOOD EASY ENTERTAINING: Grilled pizza party

Don’t put away your grill until you try our party specialists’ ideas for a backyard grilled pizza bash.

COOKING WITH RON: Cooking pork shoulder

Three hearty meals emerge from one big pork shoulder once you cut it down to size. www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015

06-09_Come & Go_fall15_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 8/1/15 2:42 PM Page 6

starters | comings & goings

comings&goings BY RON MIKULAK

This past summer has seen a flowering of restaurant ambitions here in the River City. In that time, 16 new restaurants have opened, and nine existing restaurants have opened additional outlets around town. But equally significant is the fact that between this issue and our winter issue in November, six more new restaurants are scheduled to open, and four more additional branches of established businesses are in the works, most looking to start serving by the end of August. That all adds up to 35 additions to our listings. Sixteen restaurants that were in the listings last issue are now gone, a few of which had regrettably short runs. Three other multi-location businesses closed one outlet; each of those still have two locations each. Let’s start with a run-down of those places still under construction, renovation or final detailing and staff training. When they finally open their doors and hand out menus, we will be sure to keep you informed via our social media presence on line, on Facebook ( / FoodandDine) and on Twitter ( @ FoodandDining).

NEW TABLES We would have to research our archives to determine the last issue in which we did not take notice of a new restaurant from Fernando Martinez. By late August he plans to open Artesano Tapas Vino Y Mas, a small plates and Spanish wine place that will feature margaritas on tap. It will be in the Westport Village space that briefly was home to AP Crafters at 1321 Herr Ln. And, it should go without saying, Mar tinez is well on the way to planning his next — and quite different — restaurant venture. Several other veteran restaurateurs well known to local diners are putting the finishing touches on new dining concepts. Allan Rosenberg is opening Fontleroy’s at 2011 Grinstead Dr. in the corner space that opened a year or so ago as Uncle Maddio’s Pizza. Rosenberg has named his new place for an early 20thcentury Louisville mayor, but his menu will feature 21st-century upscale bistro fare. The space at 732 E. Market St. is slated to become Galaxie Bar, a new idea from the folks at Rye. They plan a moderate-priced cocktail list and bar food that can be eaten in, or carried out as guests explore more of the Green Building. A beer garden/patio at the rear should take shape by early autumn. Le Moo, the much-anticipated re-imagining of the space that for a generation was KT’s, at 2300 Lexington Rd., will be a Europeanstyle steakhouse, an idea from Kevin Grangier, who has been riding the success of his Village Anchor and Pub in Anchorage. He also is developing part of that sprawling Lexington Rd. space as a jazz music venue. 6

Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

Dueling hot chicken places will be fun to sample when Tony Palombino opens Joella’s Hot Chicken at 3400 Frankfort Ave., and Michael Crouch starts frying at the Butchertown Chicken Shack behind Bistro 1860 at 1765 Mellwood Ave. New restaurant action across the river has been limited this quarter. Out at Horseshoe Casino in Elizabeth, Ind., Smoke & Rye, an upscale burger and BBQ restaurant, will replace the current restaurant, Legends. The beef will be ground fresh, and the buns baked daily, in house. In New Albany, the nostalgic corner space at 147 E. Market St. that for a long time was Little Chef is now Coqui’s Café, where the owners (she is a Southern gal; he is Latino) are combining their food heritages and offering fun, tasty dishes that are drawing in fans. If you just can’t wait for these not-quite-opened-yet places to finish all the details they have to get ironed out before they can start serving, you can check out a few spots that have already opened in the last few months. Over the 9 is perhaps the most ambitious of these newly shaken-down places, an urban pioneer at 120 S. Tenth St. (F&D introduces Over the 9 more fully on page 36.) In the same complex as, and under the general oversight (and roof) of Old 502 Winery and Falls City Beer, Over the 9 offers an imaginative, moderately-priced small plates selection, many of which are made with their neighbors’ wines and beer. Highlands purists have been resistant to chain eateries, but Stout Burgers and Beer, at 1604 Bardstown Rd., the first venture into the Midwest by a small California company, seems to be seducing those who want to keep things weird with their rich, juicy

comings & goings | starters

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015

starters | comings & goings burgers (made with house-ground chuck and brisket), thoughtful craft beer list and pleasant industrial-rustic interior. After popping up in various venues over the last two or three years, “Superchef ” Darnell Ferguson has settled down now in St. Matthews, at 106 Fairfax Ave., where his SuperChefs is offering imposing breakfast platters as well as lunch and dinner in a space decorated with his collection of superhero comics. The area’s scanty diner offerings have grown by two in recent months. Bella’s Diner is serving at 4106 Taylor Blvd., and Moca Diner has opened at 2610 Chamberlain Ln. Aspire Café, Deli and Fresh Market, 418 S. Eighteenth St., aims to offer West End residents a choice of healthier, fresher foods, both prepared in the café and for takeout from the deli and market. In Butchertown, Gallery K offers coffee and baked goods, as well as art, at 1600 Story Ave. The efflorescence of small ethnic restaurants so notable last issue has abated somewhat. Two new Asian restaurants have opened, Lucky House at 291 N. Hubbard’s Ln. and Peking City Express at 4000 Dutchman’s Ln. Add to those Mount Everest View at 4109 Bardstown Rd in Buechel, a Nepalese/Indian restaurant, and that’s all that’s new for Asian-themed eating. Perhaps more surprising, in light of recent activity, only one new Mexican restaurant has opened, Taqueria Ramirez, at 4506 Bardstown Rd. Coco’s Cakes is a new bakery at 501 W. Oak St., and the Arctic Scoop dispenses ice cream (including liquid nitrogen flash-frozen confections) at 841 S. Hurstbourne Ln. Over in New Albany, Kolkin Coffee is now brewing at 2736 Charlestown Rd. For those hungry souls who have migrated out to beyond the

Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

Snyder Freeway, the new Middletown Commons development on Shelbyville Rd. offers lots of eating choices, mostly chain restaurants, but mostly familiar names, and half of those are locally owned. The mailing addresses of the various restaurants are between 13301 and 13401 Shelbyville Rd., but addresses are not the way to find restaurants at malls — just keep your eyes peeled once you are there. The only unfamiliar name diners will find in the restaurant explosion at the Commons is Taziki’s Mediterranean Café, which offers a Greek menu. Nearby is Blaze Fast Fire’d Pizza outlet, the second in the area. A Chipotle Mexican Grill, the area’s fourth, and a Firehouse Subs are there as well (and another new branch of Firehouse Subs will be slinging sandwiches at 4905 Outer Loop). Yang Kee Noodle is opening a second store at Middletown Commons and Texas Roadhouse has its fifth local location there. Comfy Cow will also open a store at the Commons in late August (in addition to their new outlet in Jeffersonville, at 1450 Veterans Pkwy.), and in September a new Boombozz Pizza & Taphouse will join the mix. With all that action at the new center, we shouldn’t ignore openings in some other places around the area. Coals Artisan Pizza has heated up its coal-fired ovens at a second store, also in Middletown, but at 11615 Shelbyville Rd. Buffalo Wild Wings has a new location, 4917 Outer Loop, which is also the location address of a third Five Guys Burgers & Fries. And Bazo’s Fresh Mexican Grill’s second location fills the spot at the back of Mid City Mall, next to Baxter Ave. Cinemas at 1250 Bardstown Rd.

comings & goings | starters

CLOSINGS The list of recent closings is dominated by small ethnic places that failed to distinguish themselves in a big market, but several larger, better known names also are no more. Downtown, two places at Fourth St. Live have closed (or will be closing soon), Maker’s Mark Bourbon House & Lounge and Sully’s Saloon. Cordish, the managers of Fourth St. Live, have announced plans to replace these spots, plus add two more, but no definite names have been mentioned yet. The most sudden downtown closing was St. Charles Exchange, when its out-of-town investors decided to pull the plug on their restaurant venture to focus on their main business, software for the insurance industry. The business — a prime location at 113 S. Seventh St. — is up for sale. Two other sudden closures came as a surprise. Strati Wild Italian, a different concept from Eggheadz LLC (Wild Eggs), did not seem to work out at 1702 Bardstown Rd. And Loop 22 at 2222 Dundee Rd. closed, but owners Adam Burress and Chance Mucerino have plans for a new restaurant idea there. As mentioned, Uncle Maddio’s Pizza Joint at 2011 Grinstead Dr. closed, and the space was quickly assumed by Allan Rosenberg for his new upscale casual Fontleroy’s. And at Horseshoe Casino Legends closed, to be transformed into Smoke & Rye. Pearl, the Asian restaurant at the casino, has also closed and plans are underway to replace it with a Mexican concept. Six businesses that have closed were ethnic restaurants: TropiCuba, 2206 Frankfort Ave., which lasted only a few weeks after a rather upbeat opening; Saigon Café, 106 Fairfax Ave. (the space snapped up by SuperChefs); Shoyu Asian Fusion & Sushi,

2610 Chamberlain Ln.; Asian Bento Express, 4000 Dutchman’s Ln.; King Wok, 291 N. Hubbard’s Ln.; and La Carreta, 7319 Preston Hwy. SuperChef’s Breakfast & Lunch at 307 Wallace Ave. closed so Darnell Ferguson could expand into SuperChefs on Fairfax Ave. And Warehouse Hookah Bar & Café, 504 State St., New Albany has fired up its last hubbly-bubbly. Three restaurants with multiple locations have recently scaled back, leaving each business with two active locations. BBC closed its Theater Square location at 660 S. Fourth St. to make way for the expansion of neighboring Kindred Healthcare. Shiraz Mediterranean Grill closed its Crescent Hill store at 2011 Frankfor t Ave., and La Rosita Taqueria closed the Clarksville location at 1404 Blackiston Mill Rd.

CHANGES Finally — and rather oddly — a full six restaurants are changing their names, but little else. Except for The Coach Lamp, 751 Vine St., which is changing its focus to a lower price point neighborhood burger, sandwich and fried chicken menu, along with its name — it will be known after mid-August as Brooke & Billy’s Bites, Bourbons and Brews. Four Chinese restaurants have shifted their identities. Shanghai Restaurant at 526 S. Fourth St. will now be known as Wei Wei Chinese Express; Oriental Café at 3360 Hikes Ln. was, until recently, Asian Moon; East Star Buffet used to be Golden Palace Buffet, at 161 Outer Loop; and Wok Express at 234 W. Broadway is now China Bistro. And El Burrito Loco once was known as Pujols, at 9904 Linn Station Rd. F&D

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015

10-11 Humor_fall15-final_Layout 1 7/28/15 11:59 PM Page 10

starters | humor

texts from hell

BY JAY FORMAN

It is a dark time in the Forman household. Two and a half years in—a period of time by which I had envisioned we would be inking up franchise agreements with a retail line of Louis Vuitton cross-branded pastry bags waiting in the wings—our bakery is still experiencing what might lovingly be called “growing pains.” A more accurate phrase might be “perforated ulcers.” As I try to drug myself to sleep one Saturday night my phone buzzes... a text. Dare I even look? Maybe it’s good news. No. There is no more good news. Is it another dishwasher seeking help with making bail? If so, he has caught me in a charitable mood, given that we are shorthanded. I reach for the phone and peer blearily at the Caller ID. It is my publisher. Damn. Has it been three months already? SATURDAY 10:42 PM

Hey. Do you have the column yet? Already? No. When can I expect it, then? After I burn down my restaurant. I’ll have some time to write before the arraignment. Unless they send me to Psych, in which case I can just send you a self-portrait made of pudding cups and construction paper. ?????????????

Well, I don’t know. Is Megan around? Maybe we should bring her into the conversation. You’re not home alone… I hope? Or how about you print some of the crap people put up on Yelp? That’s pretty funny. Like the one where the person likes our food but only gives us one star because we are “too far from his house.” How about that one? Now, don’t get carried away, Jay. No? Get this: We caught our dishwasher picking his nose.

Sorry. Did I say that? I don’t have it right now. And eating it. OK, shoot. What’s going on? WTH????? I’m in a rough spot. Lost 3 employees last 5 days and about to lose a 4th. Had to fire manager at main location and just saw her in grocery store with her girlfriend, who is a butcher. Like, a knows-where-toinsert-the-tip-of-the-knife-to-pop-the-joints kind of butcher. I was afraid I was about to get carved into primals so I fled without getting the stuff I needed for dinner tonight. So I’m hungry, too. Oh, the irony. Sounds intense. But I still need a column… I could just submit the resumes we’ve been getting. Stuff from people with names like—and I kid you not —Zyppyr and King Simeon. A sprinkling of philosophy majors and people who have experience at Chipotle. Sometimes both! Got basically a dissertation on the soul-crushing nature of “corporate bread” from this one lit major - you could just cut ’n’ paste that.

10 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

My wife wanted to write him up, but we couldn’t find a form for that at Office Depot. So I made one up in Google Docs. Also, he wears a scarf with the inscription from the Ring of Power from ‘Lord of the Rings’ knitted into it, like the Elven Runes. And goggles. Goggles? Yeah. But not when he is actually washing the dishes, when goggles would probably be of some kind of use. Like for instance if he was an enthusiastic dishwasher. Which he isn’t. The scarf I can’t rationalize. It’s New Orleans. In August. This isn’t scarf country. Too funny! But back to the column…

10-11 Humor_fall15-final_Layout 1 7/29/15 12:00 AM Page 11

humor | starters

Oh right, John, the column. Well, maybe I could write up a PSA on workplace safety. I just went to change the lightbulb in our walk-in freezer and found that it had literally FILLED UP WITH WATER LIKE A GOLDFISH BOWL from a crappy installation job and turned into a giant block of ice! Our workers comp just doubled last week after the annual audit—another piece of awesome news—and if some noob touched the Hardwired Death Ice with, say, a booger finger (because we all know that boogers, being mostly salt and oil, have excellent conductive properties), we’d be facing a claims nightmare. Does Office Depot have a form for that? Um… One of our other employees falls over when she walks sometimes. She’s not drunk, just easily distracted. Which makes me cringe when she sticks both arms elbow-deep into a 50-pound dough baby in our Goliath Doyon Spiral Mixer. That thing is 3-phase 208 V and has a dough hook that looks like a medieval torture device. It isn’t really leveled right and it wobbles around the floor like a killer washing machine. Plus the cord is frayed. I think we have your column. What? You couldn’t make this stuff up! Really? Yeah. Where’s my check? TUESDAY 9:18 AM

We caught the nose picker at it again today and had to let him go. I sh*t you not. www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015

starters | $10 challenge

Toonerville challenge Deli

$10

BY ASHLEE CLARK THOMPSON | PHOTO BY ANDY HYSLOP

I had never eaten a Reuben before I visited Toonerville Deli. As a kid, this type of sandwich intimidated me. Maybe the flavors were too complex for my naïve palate. I wasn’t stuck on chicken fingers and French fries like some other youngsters, but what kid wants smelly sauerkraut on their sandwich? Not me. I bring up my previous aversion to the Reuben, a grilled sandwich traditionally made of corned-beef brisket, Swiss cheese, the aforementioned sauerkraut and Russian dressing on rye bread, because this sandwich is the Toonerville Deli’s specialty. It would have been wrong to bypass the Reuben because of my childish hesitation, especially when there are 10 versions of the sandwich at Toonerville. I quickly learned that there is much more to the Tooner ville Deli than its Reubens, one of which made me a convert to the joys of this grown-up sandwich. Toonerville Deli’s extensive selection of sandwiches (28 in total, ranging from $4.50 for a breakfast egg and cheese to $13.50 for a “3 A ‘Meat’ Os”) makes this new establishment a welcome addition to the Old Louisville restaurant scene. Most of the Reubens go for about $10, with most other sandwiches a buck or two less; all include a bag of chips and some include a side dish. Toonerville’s focus on creativity and quality, especially when it comes to a Reuben, makes a sandwich from this deli a worthwhile treat. Tooner ville Deli occupies a quaint space at the corner of First and Oak streets in Old Louisville that was formerly Ermin’s French Bakery and Café. There are just a handful of tables in the restaurant, which makes this deli ideal for a grab-and-go lunch. At night, the deli transforms into Old Louisville Pizza Co. and serves pizzas, salads, flatbreads and a few sandwiches from the Toonerville Deli menu (later this year, the owners will join the two restaurants). The owners of Toonerville, Daniel Borsch and Scott Lukemire, have already established themselves as a formidable duo in Old Louisville. The two co-own Old Louisville Tavern at Four th Street and Gaulber t Avenue, which is undergoing repairs after an arsonist damaged the building in 2014. Borsch also operates Burger Boy, a 24-hour diner at Brook and Burnett streets. As a fan of both the Old Louisville Tavern and Burger Boy, I expected hearty 12 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

$10 challenge | starters

Good food shouldn’t be a luxur y. In this column, I set out to prove that it is possible to eat a high-quality, low-cost meal within Louisville’s diverse and expanding food scene. My goal is to find a meal at a local restaurant that costs $10 or less (excluding the tip), an ideal limit for those of us who are cashstrapped but have a hard time sacrificing a nice meal outside of the house. food and reasonable prices from the Toonerville Deli. And I discovered that the deli knows how to serve a savory, filling sandwich that can last for two meals, or at least hold you over through dinner. The Toonerville Deli creates hearty sandwiches for breakfast and lunch with inspired topping combinations that include flavored mayonnaise, plenty of flavorful cheeses and preservative- and nitrate-free deli meats. Some of the most interesting sandwiches include the Pigs Will Fly ($11) with chicken, salami, pepperoni, pesto mayonnaise and sun-dried tomatoes, and the Scotty Doesn’t Know ($10), a concoction of roast beef, bacon, habanero jack and Gouda cheeses and chipotle-bacon mayonnaise. Like a simpler sandwich? Toonerville Deli has that covered, too. For example, you can opt for a grilled cheese on Texas toast, which is $6 and comes with tomatobasil soup. The ham and cheese ($8) sounds plain, but the sandwich comes with applewood-smoked ham, Gouda and house-made honey mustard. But the true star of the Toonerville Deli menu is the Reuben. The Reuben selection is great for a newbie like me. There are 10 varieties, including a traditional Reuben called the Toonerville, that allow you to stick close to the original or venture out in search of toppings more inline with your preferences. For example, the Southern Expansion ($11) uses chipotle corned beef, jalapeño sauerkraut, cheddar cheese, slaw and barbecue sauce all on top of jalapeño cornbread to give the Reuben a hot, straight-from-Dixie twist. And the General Tso What? ($11) seems to dare Reuben lovers not to like this compilation of barbecue chicken, corned beef, sauer kraut, slaw and cheddar cheese on sour dough bread. These Reuben remixes might bemuse a purist, but the variations make this classic sandwich more approachable and fun. And it’s nice that these well-stuffed sandwiches come with chips and a small side.

For the $10 Challenge, I recruited my husband, Rob, to help me cover more of the menu than I could on my own. We selected the Czar ($11) from the Reuben menu and a turkey club ($9) for a weekday lunch for two. One of the Toonerville employees said the turkey club is a customer favorite. My husband agrees. The club has three pieces of moist bread that hold thinly sliced turkey, cheese, crumbled bacon, tomato, lettuce and a truffle-and-tarragon mayonnaise that makes this sandwich stand above its peers. The turkey club was good. But the Czar stole my affection that day. A huge pile of corned beef and pastrami is loaded onto black Russian pumpernickel and topped with tangy sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and a layer of Russian dressing. The saltiness of the meat complemented the sauerkraut well. The bread, which comes from Rotella Bakery in St. Louis, was soft, dense and provided a slightly sweet note to bring the whole thing together. Rob scoffed that this wasn’t a “real” Reuben. But I didn’t care. This sandwich was delicious and made me hungry for more corned beef. Add a bag of chips and a small side of pasta salad dotted with sun-dried tomatoes, and I was a delighted woman. Both sandwiches were large enough to eat half for lunch and save half for dinner. The Tooner ville Deli is sure to become an Old Louisville favorite with its interesting variety of sandwiches and hearty helpings. I know I’m eager to get back to make my way through the Reuben menu, now that I’ve found that sauerkraut is not really all that smelly. F&D

The Bottom Line: Turkey club with chips: $9 The Czar Reuben with chips and pasta salad: $11 Total (without tax or tip): $20 Average cost per person: $10 Mission: Accomplished

Toonerville Deli | 1201 S. First Street | (502) 635-6960 www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 13

liquids | hip hops

Gordon Biersch: Still Leading with Lager Brewing comes full circle with locally-crafted beer styles in the Central European tradition. BY ROGER A. BAYLOR | PHOTO BY ANDY HYSLOP

Märzen, known as Oktoberfest in its autumnal guise, is an Old World style of lager beer originating in the German state of Bavaria. Talk is cheap, so let’s have a sip — strictly for research purposes. This Märzen is orange-tinged amber, with a rich, malty aroma. There is a toasted, malty sweetness in the mouth, yielding to impeccable balance and dryness in the finish, albeit without discernable hoppiness. The body is medium, and the flavor is clean and crisp, as lager should be, with absolutely none of the fruitiness characteristic to ale. The elegant Märzen in my glass disappears all too Brewer Nicholas Landers quickly, even as it conjures totemic images of sausages, dirndls, onion-domed churches and festive maypoles. However, while my brain screams “Munich,” the growler before me calmly reads “Louisville,” as referring to our local 4th Street branch of the Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant network. Here in River City, Märzen is an everyday Gordon Biersch draft, brewed on site by brewer Nicholas Landers, a transplanted Cincinnatian who sharpened his skills at Lakefront Brewery in Milwaukee after attending Chicago’s Siebel Institute. Most American brewpubs of a similar capacity (circa 700 barrels per annum) do not specialize in lager styles, which take longer to brew than ale. However, Gordon Biersch, named for founders Dan Gordon and Dean Biersch, has always been something different. Befitting Gordon’s brewing studies at the prestigious Technical University of Munich, a core of lager styles from the German, Czech and Central European pantheon has comprised Gordon Biersch’s niche since its 1988 inception in Palo Alto, California. These include Märzen, Export, Pilsner, Dunkel and Maibock, all brewed according to the Reinheitsgebot (beer purity law), and all familiar to anyone who has traveled in Bavaria or dined stateside at a good German restaurant like Louisville’s Gasthaus. In recent times, brewers like Landers at Gordon Biersch’s 34 company-owned locations have considerably more freedom than before to create seasonal and one-off ale styles, providing guests with counterpoint to the lagers and “guest” beers already on tap. “We’re holding to tradition with our lagers, but being able to do India Pale Ales now is awesome,’’ Landers says, noting that in addition to his house lager s and cer tain contrarian German ales (Hefeweizen and Kölsch), he’s also been crafting limited editions of Por ter, Stout and even a few Belgian styles. However, here we must pause, because an important question needs to be addressed. 14 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

hip hops | liquids

What is the difference between ale and lager? It’s fundamental, and the legendary Fred Eckhardt, dean of American beer writers, offers a deceptively simple answer. Ale and lager are both beers; that is, they are fermented from grain. The major difference between these two beer families stems from the temperature at which fermentation is carried out. And the importance of these differences in temperature is that chemical reactions happen more slowly at lower temperatures. From the very beginning, mankind has harnessed the natural process of fermentation to produce alcoholic beverages, using grains, grapes, fruits, vegetables and honey. Eons of experience abundantly illustrate that when humans mix water, sugar and yeast in stray bowls or pottery, it takes little time before fermentation gets underway. However, the story of ale and lager is one of contrasting brewing methodologies, and it is a specifically Eurocentric tale, evolving comparatively recently with the march of science. Beginning in medieval times, brewers in Central Europe learned through trial and error that cooler fermentation temperatures and lengthier aging (the word “lager” in German means “to store”) made for a crisper, cleaner and mellower end product. But why? They couldn’t possibly know until the invention of the microscope, which provided the means to view the activity of yeast, the living micro-organism that diligently converts sugars into alcohol. Once yeast’s role was unmasked, science quickly began deciphering fermentation’s perennial mysteries, and by the 1830s lager yeast had been isolated and began coming into common use. Lager brewing’s cooler fermentation temperatures slow chemical reactions, and by doing so, substantially reduced flavor and aroma by-products. Conversely, at warmer fermentation temperatures, these flavors and aroma byproducts are purposefully enhanced, and remain cherished components of ale’s “fruity” charm. Like the Beatles much later, lager brewing blossomed at just the right time. By the late 19th century, lager was an international sensation, perfectly suited to burgeoning consumer cultures, industrial economies of scale and a zeal for scientific

GORDON BIERSCH 400 S. 4TH STREET 502.589.8935

advancement. Lager consciousness swept the world, and ale was pushed into localized (and stubborn) corners like Great Britain and Belgium. Inevitably, lager became too perfect. Crisp, clean and mellow yielded to cynical mass-market flavorlessness, which inspired the American craft beer backlash of the present era.

In 1988, Dan Gordon saw the issue from a different angle. To the Bavarian-trained Gordon, lager wasn’t something to be overthrown and excluded. Rather, lager needed reclaiming and rehabilitation. He would emphasize the flavorful origins of classic lager styles, and localize their production as his new company grew. Consequently, unlike some other national brewery concepts, Gordon Biersch house beers are brewed right here in Louisville, where chain or not, the company helped launch the Kentucky Guild of Brewers, working alongside the state’s independent small brewers. “At first, some of them probably wondered who we were,” says Landers, “but we’re all brewers, and we all helped get KGB started.” Jason Smith is Gordon Biersch’s general manager, and when asked to specify the single most important aspect of his work, he does not hesitate. “Commitment,” Smith replies, and then elaborates. “Commitment to the Reinheitsgebot in the brewery, and to locally sourcing food in the kitchen. We’re committed to this community, and to helping local charities. Yes, it may be a company checkbook, but we’re local guys.” Chain skeptics, of whom the author is one, might yet scoff; after all, 4th Street Live lies at Gordon Biersch’s front door. However, the prevailing evidence illustrates that ample localism is being served alongside the beer and food, owing to the daily commitment of the people working for Gordon Biersch. Me? I’m just sitting here finishing this growler of Märzen, watching the craft beer pendulum swing back and forth. F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 15

16-17 Cork101_fall15-final_Beer_John_V1_Fall05.qxd 7/29/15 12:02 AM Page 16

liquids | cork 101

What wines are Undervalued?

Our panel of experts helps you sort out the gems. Our challenge this issue for our wine guys was to select for our readers wines that they thought were “undervalued.” That turned out to be an ambiguous term, or one that has wide latitude for those in the wine biz. Some chose inexpensive wines — well under $20 — that deliver tastes and textures more commonly found in more premiumpriced wines. Others chose wines most casual drinkers would term pricey, but to our experts show characteristics of even more upscale wines–sometimes rivaling in taste pleasures that exceed those of wines costing twice as much. BY RON MIKULAK | PHOTOS BY ANDY HYSLOP

Scott Harper, Bristol Bar & Grille wine and beverage manager, found one Italian and one French wine he regards as fine examples of the best red wine production in their respective regions. Both wines can be found at Party Mart at 3050 Bardstown Road and 4808 Brownsboro Center. He likes the Nebbiolo La Spinetta 2010 ($34.99), a Barbaresco from the Piedmont region of Italy. “In Piedmont,” Harper said, “there are two of the greatest wines of Italy, Barolo and Barbaresco. Barolo is said to be the ‘king of wines and the wine of kings.’ ” Barbaresco is its just slightly less regal relative. Both are made from 100 percent Nebbiolo, one of the great Italian red wine grapes. “While not inexpensive,” he said, “it costs substantially less then Barolo, and Barbaresco is more approachable at a younger age. This wine is dry and full-bodied, with flavors of red fruits, rose and baking spices.” Bordeaux wines, from the classic viniculture area of southwestern France, have a great history, and often command astronomical prices. This is especially true for those made from Chateau-bottled wine in a specific commune such as Margaux, Harper explained. Like most of those great clarets, Harper’s “undervalued” choice, Chateau Mongravey 2007 ($39.99), comes from Margaux. It is made from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and a few other grape varieties.

16 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

“While I am not saying this is on par with the great Chateaux,” Harper said, “it is a fraction of the price. It is full-flavored and full-bodied with classic flavors of cassis, cherry, raspberry, oak-spice, and anise with wellintegrated tannins.”

John Johnson, owner and sommelier of The Wine Rack, 2632 Frankfort Ave., said, “Finding undervalued wines in today’s world is not too tough. From continents around the globe, great value wines can be found, and a strong U.S. dollar is helping that cause.” For this column, though, Johnson focused on wines from Washington, a region he said “delivers incredible value.” He attributes the plentiful sunshine falling east of the Cascades and lower land costs as helping the state produce quality wines at value prices. His two West Coast wine choices are made in the style of Bordeaux, but sell at a far lower price. 14 Hands Sauvignon Blanc, 2014, $11. “This nice take on Bordeaux Blanc is made with Sauvignon Blanc grapes, enhanced by a splash of Semillon, another classic French white wine grape. The 2014 shows tropical fruit and grapefruit, vibrant, but rounded,” Johnson said. His red wine pick is Revelry Vintners’ “The Reveler,” 2013, from the Columbia Valley, priced at $21. John describes the wine

16-17 Cork101_fall15-final_Beer_John_V1_Fall05.qxd 7/29/15 12:03 AM Page 17

cork 101 | liquids offering a “twist on Bordeaux Rouge, with varying percentages of the classic varieties. The 2013 is 40 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 38 percent Merlot, 10 percent Cab Franc and 12 percent Petit Verdot. Aged in French oak, the wine is luxuriously textured, balanced and harmonious.”

Todd Antz, owner of Keg Liquors (617 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy.) in New Albany interpreted “undervalued” in terms of fairly pricey wines that are as good or better than even pricier wines. In other words, you can make a great impression with these and still be smug that you got more than your money’s worth. Both of his choices are from California; one from Napa Valley, the other, Sonoma. Antz likes the Paradigm Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, which he sells for $79.99. “(It) is the epitome of what a Napa Cab is supposed to be,” Antz said. “It is estate grown and made by Heidi Peterson Barrett, who has been making this wine since its inception in 1991. It pours the color of an inky currant jam, with full aromas of cherry, plum, coffee and spice. The flavor is full-bodied, but with very silky tannins. This wine is excellent off the shelf, but only gets better with a little cellar time. Comparable Napa Cabernet Sauvignons are priced well over the $100 to $150 mark.” His second choice is Meeker Handprint Merlot 2010, listed at $45.99. Antz says this wine “personifies what a true Merlot should be. It is considered the signature wine created by the winery, so much that each bottle gets a painted handprint from the owners and/or the winemaker, which makes each bottle unique.” Antz finds plum, cherry and vanilla aromas on the nose, dark fruits, cherry and leather flavors on the tongue, “with a huge mouthfeel and a lingering dry finish.” This wine can age at least 10 years, so there is plenty of time to enjoy this vintage. Comparable Merlots, Antz said, are typically priced in the $80 to $100 range, making this a tremendous value.

Gordo Jackson, Old Town Liquors (1529 Bardstown Rd.) and The Wine Market (1200 Bardstown Rd.) interpreted “undervalued” as suggesting table wines that drink more like premium wines. He lauds a white and a red from the Perrin family who, for five generations, have made a range of wines from Chateauneuf-du-Pape on the pricey end to La Vielle Ferme on the affordable end.

For our challenge, Jackson chose Perrin Cote Du Rhone Reserve Blanc & Rouge 2012, both of which he sells for $12. He calls Perrin Reserve Cote Du Rhone Rouge 2012 a wine that goes well with grilled meats and burgers, and is also great on its own, making it a fine party wine. “It’s perfectly balanced,” Jackson said, “slightly spicy, a little jammy and a whole lot of fun. The fruit comes from the family’s vineyards in Provence: a blend of 60 percent Grenache and 20 percent each of Syrah and Mourvedre. Jackson describes the Perrin Reserve Cote Du Rhone Blanc 2012 as a “bright crisp wine with abundant floral aromas, notes of melon and pear on the palate with lingering notes of lemon zest on the finish.” The winemaker uses a blend of 50 percent Grenache Blanc with Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne making up the balance.

Chris Zaborowski, owner of Westport Whiskey and Wine in Westport Village, explained how he evaluates wines. “In pursuit of that great scoring wine we tend to miss the pleasure of a well-made wine. When selecting wines for our store, I taste without knowing the bottle cost. I want to enjoy the experience, be seduced into not spitting, but swallowing. I ask myself, ‘Does it capture the savory sensations that convince me that it is worth more than its acquisition cost?’ If so, there lies the value.” The wines he selected came from France and Italy. His French selection is Domaine Frederic Brouca, 2013, “Samso Seulle,” from Faugeres, a town in Languedoc, west of Montpelier. Unlike many of the red wine blends of southern France, this one is 100 percent Cinsault, one of the classic grapes of the Rhone and other regions in southern France. Zaborowski describes this wine as bearing aromas of blackberries and having a mouth-filling texture with a silky, long finish. He sells it for $21.99. His Italian wine is from Tuscany, Villa di Capezzana, 2009.The Carmignano DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) is the highest certification in the Italian wine industry. It is made in a region whose wine history stretches back to Roman times. Zaborowski describes this 6year-old bottle as having aromas of “strawberry, a sweet herbal nose,” and textures that “come in big, full and round.” He lists this wine at $36.99. F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 17

feature | chef q&a

CHEF LOGAN SANDOVAL Age: 25 Current Restaurant: Sway Previous Restaurants: Providence (Los Angeles) and Stand CafĂŠ (Columbus) Neighborhood (current): Old Louisville Hometown: Los Angeles Significant Other: Single Favorite Hobbies: Lifting weights Favorite Cookbook: Momofuku by David Chang Favorite Kitchen Gadget: Ricer

QA &

Logan Sandoval doesn’t look like your average chef. For one thing, he looks more like he should be running a Gold’s Gym than a kitchen. Sandoval began lifting weights in high school in Los Angeles, where he was on the wrestling team, and it is still a daily ritual. The other thing that stands out about him are his tattoos, which are a homage to his chosen profession. The main image is an octopus holding a chef’s knife and a lantern with “restaurant” written on it in Japanese. The octopus is also wearing a traditional Japanese cooking bandana. Other images on his arms include a Chinese wok and two cocks fighting, one with a chef’s knife. The inside of his arm reads, “Cook free or die.” “Getting my forearm done was one of the biggest challenges of my life,” Sandoval said. “It was one 11- hour sitting.”

chef q&a | feature

Despite the muscles and intimidating ink, Sandoval is pretty much a momma’s boy. His mother, Natalie, raised two boys by herself. Sandoval, who is of Hawaiian descent, credits her with his love of Spam and his culinary career. It was Natalie who got him a job washing dishes at a sports bar and gave him Anthony Bourdain’s Kitchen Confidential, inspiring him to go to culinary school. She also helped him get started with Hyatt Hotels Corporation, where he has spent his entire career. After working in Los Angeles, he moved on to stints at hotels in Charlotte and Columbus. Now he is the chef at Sway in the Hyatt in downtown Louisville. Sandoval expects to stay with the hotel chain until he’s ready to open a restaurant of his own. “Hyatt is a great company if you like to move,” Sandoval said. “I really get to show my creativity and individuality in the kitchen.” BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOS BY ANDY HYSLOP

What is your first food memory? When I was 7 or 8 years old, we went on a cruise to Mexico. It was the first time I ever tried escargot and duck. I just wanted to be different. Who has influenced your cooking the most? Mainly my mother. She told me when I was little she would strap me into the little baby carriage and I would watch her cook. Why did you become a chef? It’s the old cliché story. I started washing dishes at a sports bar called Cronies where my mom was the bartender. She got me the job and then I started cooking. Then culinary school came after high school and I went on from there. How did you get started with the Hyatt? I actually started in Los Angeles when I was 19. My mother met this sous chef and told him she had a son in culinary school. He invited me to come in for an interview. That was back in 2011. What culinary school did you attend? The Art Institute of California, which is in Los Angeles. So, you basically owe your whole career to your mother?

Cooking too. When I was younger we had little to no money, but she found a way to feed me and my brother. He is autistic so he had special dietary needs. That taught me to aim toward different dietary restrictions. What did you want to be when you grew up? I wanted to be a vet but I couldn’t handle putting animals down. After that I wanted to be a pro wrestler. Fill in the blank: If I weren’t a chef, I’d be… I’d either own a gym or be a professional weightlifter. When did you get into lifting weights? I started lifting for wrestling when I was in high school. Once I started culinary school I got out of wrestling but I still wanted competition, so I started getting into bodybuilding. Who are your favorite chefs? David Chang and Anthony Bourdain. Around Christmas 2002, after I showed interest in cooking, my mom gave me a copy of Bourdain’s book Kitchen Confidential. I read it and decided, “That’s what my life will revolve around.”

Besides Sway, what is your favorite restaurant in Louisville? Number one is Hammerheads. They do good food that is not pretentious. I love the lamb ribs and the tacos. What’s the best thing you ever cooked? When I was in Columbus, I did this Chef ’s Table that had eight courses in it. All the courses were really good. But I made this scallop dish with charred baby tomatoes and cream sauce. Every component of that dish came together. Most memorable meal? That’s an easy one. For my twenty-second birthday I and one of my close friends went to Chicago specifically to eat at Alinea, which was the number one restaurant in the country. Between the two of us it cost $1,200. I saved up all summer for it. We got the wine tasting and all 36 courses. Are there any culinary trends you are wild about right now? Southern food. My background is fusion and Southern kind of challenges me in a way I didn’t know it would. Any trends you consider overrated? I like the fact that people are moving away www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 19

feature | chef q&a from the whole Micro Gastronomy thing and back towards mom and pop food. Here we do basic food but in a fine dining setting. Which seasonings don’t you respect? Seasoned salt. If you are going to do seasoned salt, make your own. Which are underrated? Garlic powder or onion powder. I don’t think people use them enough. We do our own smoked meats in-house and I like to utilize both in the rub. What’s your favorite go-to ingredient? Salt. If you don’t season a dish correctly it could ruin the dish. What’s your greatest strength in the kitchen? The relationship I have with my front-ofthe-house managers and cooks; communication is the key in this business. You’re pretty young. Are most of your cooks older than you?

QA What music was playing in the kitchen last night?

I am very big on having a quiet work environment. Obviously it gets hectic during service when you are calling out tickets. But even before that I want to be quiet and focused. Your worst kitchen nightmare?

You always see on Facebook the really gnarly grease accidents. Whenever the cooks drop the grease I’m always concerned that I won’t be here and something will go wrong. I don’t want to get a call at midnight that someone has been burned. Dumbest thing you’ve ever done with food or in a kitchen? I deep-fried a filet mignon once. This is when I was young. This lady sent back a dish three times complaining that it wasn’t done enough, so I put it in the fryer. It was well done. Best cooking tip for a novice?

It is about half and half. I have those older cooks that have been around forever.

Season correctly and eat things mediumrare if not rare.

Being so young, is there a process where you have to earn their respect?

What cooking skill required in your kitchen is the most difficult to master?

There is always that process but ultimately I prove to them that I can be their leader.

Getting the time right on the fried chicken. You go under and you serve raw chicken; if you go over, all of sudden you have cardboard on your plate. Our fried chicken takes about 20 minutes. On a busy night, if

What’s your downfall? I get a little temperamental sometimes.

you get in eight or nine orders of fried chicken, you’ve got to keep track of the time on all your different fryers.

Kitchen tool(s) you cannot live without? Common sense. A teacher in culinary school once asked, ‘What do you think the most important tool in the kitchen is?’ Everybody said the chef ’s knife and things like that. I said, ‘Common sense because it’s something you can’t teach in the kitchen.’

Kitchen tool the home chef doesn’t know about but should? The ricer. It’s a contraption with a handle. You put potatoes in it and you get the creamiest and nicest mashed potatoes.

Is there a guilty-secret ingredient in your kitchen — something you’d rather not be spotted using? In my home kitchen and my work kitchen is Spam. We do a breakfast platter with Spam and when I’m home I put Spam in everything. When I was little my mom would set me up on the counter and open the Spam. I would eat it cold. What’s in your fridge at home? A lot of leftover Chinese food. I also pickle my own vegetables at home. That is something I’m trying to do here, but it is hard to do it on the scale that is needed. I have racks of mason jars in my fridge. What food is your guilty pleasure? Hot Cheetos.

chef q&a | feature Your favorite quick meal to prepare at home? Turkey sandwiches and hot Cheetos or chorizo and egg burrito. There is always chorizo in my fridge. Is there a food you can’t bring yourself to eat? I’m pretty open. I will try anything once. I’ve eaten bugs. I’ve eaten crocodile tail, pig tongue and fish eyes. Your last food-related “wow moment”…? We just rolled out a new menu and we have a really nice Amish chicken. You’d think it was an elegant dish, but I put bacon and macaroni and cheese on it. People were telling me it wasn’t going to work, but then they ate it and loved it. If you had a time machine, what would be your first stop in culinary history? I would go back to the late ’70s or ’80s and work in either England or Paris. If you could work for one chef, who would it be? David Chang. I started reading about him in 2011. His fusion style and his story just really inspired me. If you could cook a meal for anyone, who would it be? Anthony Bourdain. When I graduated from culinary school my mother brought me tickets to go see him speak. It was like a full circle thing because his book was what convinced me to go to culinary school in the first place. What do you aspire to? I want to continue with the Hyatt for a long time, but eventually I want to open up a small place near the ocean in California or Hawaii. What’s your last meal on earth, if you had the chance to choose? My mother’s tuna casserole. When I go home she makes me tuna casserole. Tuna casserole is nasty as hell, but it takes me back to my childhood. F&D (opposite from left) Salmon with sautéed kale and spinach over a carrot puree; roasted Amish chicken with asparagus and bacon macaroni and cheese; pork chop with Yukon potatoes, green beans and mixed peppers. www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 21

food | easy entertaining

Grilled

EASY pizza party BY TIM & LORI LAIRD PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

entertaining

We have thrown thousands of parties over the years, and have learned the key to a great party is keeping it easy, keeping it entertaining, and making it delicious. In the warm months, an outdoor grilled pizza party meets all those criteria.

On keeping it Easy — There is nothing easier, or more delicious, than pizza on the grill. There is no need for an expensive wood-burning pizza oven when your grill can deliver great taste and an efficient cooking process. You'll be amazed at how easy it is to make your own dough and how light, thin and crispy the crust gets when you grill it outside. Not only does grilling give the crust a hint of smoky flavor, it also keeps your house cool because you don’t have to turn on the oven. 22 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

easy entertaining | food

Michael Crouch’s creamed corn, ricotta cheese, ham and egg pizza. (recipe pg. 27)

On keeping it Entertaining — Guests love to get involved, and a backyard pizza party is a great way to get everyone to buy into contributing to the fun. Invite friends and neighbors over and have them bring their favorite pizza toppings. Let them top their own pizzas to share with others. As the host, you simply provide the dough, sauce and cheese and let your guests do the rest. A grilled pizza party is fun for all types of gatherings, including a kid’s birthday, a small family get-together, or a large party with lots of friends. On making it Delicious — Our secret to a good sauce is to simply use canned crushed tomatoes and add a little sugar and crushed garlic cloves. The dough can be made two days ahead of time and allowed to rest; this resting period makes the dough very easy to roll and just the right texture for a thin crust pizza. (see the recipe on page 24). Keeping this last secret in mind, our Publisher, John Carlos White, invited some of our top Louisville chefs over to make their own special pizzas, which are featured in the next few pages. See Chef Dave Danielson’s (Churchill Downs) grilled peaches and arugula and Moroccan lamb pizzas, Michael Crouch’s (Bistro 1860) creamed corn with ricotta and egg pizza, Josh Moore’s (Volare) roasted cauliflower pizza, John Varanese’s (Varanese) pesto pancetta pizza and our goat cheese and basil pizza. Take these recipes and topping combinations, add your own, and get grilling! (right) Pictured from left; Dave Danielson, John White, Dan Dry, Michael Crouch, Tim Laird, Lori Laird, Lindsay Franzen and Josh Moore.

food | easy entertaining Essentials you will need are a red sauce (recipe below), cheese (we recommend a variety, with fresh mozzarella as a must), and of course pizza dough. Below is a simple and delicious recipe for pizza dough. If you want to save time you can buy it from your local grocery store, often in the form of frozen dough balls. Simply follow the directions on defrosting and you are ready to roll.

Pizza Sauce 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes 4 garlic cloves, crushed 2 tablespoons sugar Pour crushed tomatoes into a large bowl and add the garlic and sugar. Mix and store in the refrigerator until ready to use.

Grilling the Pizzas On medium heat, place dough on clean grill grates for only three to four minutes, checking to make sure it has browned slightly.

Flip the dough, brush with olive oil, then top with sauce, toppings and finally cheese. Grill with lid down another 15 to 20 minutes or until cheese has melted. Check bottom of crust periodically to make sure it does not burn.

GRILLING TIPS Less is more Don’t overload your pizza with toppings. Too many toppings will cause your pie to get soggy and hard to remove from the grill.

Don’t be in a hurry to turn Once you place your dough on the grill, leave it alone until it's time to turn it, about three to four minutes.

Keep a lid on it Every time you look under the lid, you lose the heat and smoke which gives your food that grilled flavor.

Keep your grates seasoned Brush with oil after each use.

Pizza Dough Recipe (makes four 10-inch pizzas)

4 cups flour 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon sugar 2 packages pizza yeast 1 1/2 cups warm water (120 to 130 degrees) 2 tablespoon olive oil Cooking spray 4 tablespoons cornmeal

Two days before party — Combine flour, salt, sugar and yeast in a large food processor or stand mixer fitted with a dough blade or dough hook, then slowly add the water and oil. Mix until dough forms a ball, about four to five minutes. Place the dough in a large bowl coated with cooking spray, turning to coat top. Cover and let rise in a warm place, free from drafts, 45 minutes or until doubled in size. Punch the dough down, let it rise a second time then punch it down again. Lightly coat plastic wrap with olive oil, wrap the dough ball, then refrigerate it for two days. For the party — Divide dough into four equal-sized balls. Working with one ball at a time (cover remaining dough to keep from drying out), roll into a 10-inch circle on a lightly floured surface. Place dough on a pizza pan sprinkled with one tablespoon cornmeal. Repeat with remaining dough.

easy entertaining | food

(tip) Use several stems of rosemary to brush the grill with oil. It helps season your grates and adds an extra flavor to everything you grill.

(pictured) Churchill Downs Chef Dave Danielsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Spicy Moroccan lamb and goat cheese pizza.

food | easy entertaining

Dave Danielson - Churchill Downs (above) Sour cream (as the base sauce) Parmesan cheese Arugula Grilled peaches Prosciutto Balsamic syrup Tip: Heat the sour cream and Parmesan on the pizza first, then add the rest of the ingredients 26 Fall 2015Â www.foodanddine.com

John Varanese - Varanese (above) Basil-cashew pesto Gorgonzola Pancetta Grilled chicken Balsamic marinated onions

easy entertaining | food

Josh Moore - Volare (left) Roasted garlic olive oil Ricotta White cheddar, mozzarella and provolone cheeses Roasted cauliflower Basil and parsley Lemon Bourbon and apple cider reduction

Tim and Lori Laird (top)

three or four. Use your imagination and the freshest available ingredients and your pizza party will surely be a hit.

More Pizza Topping Ideas l Olive oil with caramelized onions, blue cheese and rosemary sprigs.

Red sauce Goat cheese Fresh basil leaves Tip: To make the cheese easier to place on the pizza, slice the goat cheese log into disks ahead of time, press to flatten between plastic wrap and refrigerate.

l Pesto sauce with chicken (buy rotisserie cooked chicken, remove the skin and shred) and mozzarella cheese.

Michael Crouch - Bistro 1860 (pictured on pg. 23)

l Red sauce with crisp bacon, smoked mozzarella cheese and onions.

Ricotta creamed corn Ricotta cheese Woodlands farm ham Arugula pesto Mozzarella Garlic scape Egg

Dave Danielson Churchill Downs (pictured on pg. 25) Spicy red sauce Moroccan lamb Goat cheese Mint The variety of pizza toppings and combinations are endless. A rule of thumb for an evenly cooked pizza is to limit the toppings to

l BBQ sauce with grilled chicken, diced green onions, crumbled bacon and mozzarella cheese.

l Pesto sauce with shrimp, Parmesan cheese, roasted red and yellow peppers. l Red sauce with roasted eggplant, sweet peppers, caramelized onions and mozzarella cheese. l Olive oil with fresh mozzarella, sliced tomatoes, ParmigianoReggiano and basil. l Thai peanut sauce with chicken, stir-fry veggies, cilantro and mozzarella cheese. l Red sauce with sausage, caramelized onions and dollops of ricotta cheese. www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 27

Equus_Design_Fall15_Ed1_Layout 1 8/1/15 8:22 PM Page 28

3 4

DECADES

STARS After 30 years, Equus and its owner-chef Dean Corbett are still cooking for fans in St. Matthews

BY STEVE COOMES | PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAN DRY

n August, Equus reached a milestone few restaurants in Louisville's history have achieved: 30 years in operation. Chef-owner Dean Corbett ruminated on the thought for a moment before mumbling almost wearily, "Hard to believe." Then he shook his head, paused and let a satisfied grin spread over his face. "It really is hard to believe." Three decades is a remarkable achievement in any industry, much less in the restaurant business, where establishments open and close so quickly their lifespans should be calculated in dog years. Such math would make Equus a veritable Methuselah among its fine-dining peers, only a few of which can compare. (Jack Fry's and Vincenzo's are 29, and Lilly's is 28.) 28 Fall 2015Â www.foodanddine.com

Equus_Design_Fall15_Ed1_Layout 1 8/1/15 7:38 PM Page 29

equus | feature

Equus_Design_Fall15_Ed1_Layout 1 8/1/15 7:39 PM Page 30

feature | equus

EQ UU S

122 Sears Ave. 502.897.9721

Pork chop with succotash, soubise and a Madeira wine demi. 30

Equus_Design_Fall15_Ed1_Layout 1 8/1/15 7:39 PM Page 31

equus | feature

(pictured) The swanky Jack's Lounge opened June 1, 2000. (below) Equus as it looked when Corbett bought it in 1985. Some days Corbett admits to feeling like Methuselah. His back and feet ache constantly despite major surgery to repair both. If his body had an odometer, his Kelly Blue Book value would be junk. “But the back surgery made me almost an inch taller,“ he said when we visited two years ago after the surgery. “I was that stooped over!“ And yet his 53-year-old engine rarely idles. He’s always thinking about the next tweak to his businesses, which also include Jack’s Lounge and Corbett’s: An American Place. He can’t walk through his dining room without being greeted by a longtime customer. “Those people, customers who’ve been with us since we started, they’re why we’re here,” Corbett said. “They’ve supported us through thick and thin. Many are quite old and can’t come as often, but now their grandchildren are coming here.” Corbett was just 23 when his father, Jack Corbett, invested $25,000 to buy a share of Equus from owner Rodulfo Pantoja in 1985. Pantoja and his family were successful real estate developers, but they struggled as restaurateurs, and their horse-themed eatery was an odds-on favorite to scratch if it didn’t source experienced guidance quickly. After a few months in business, they approached Corbett about becoming its chef, but in that first meeting, he demurred and pointed to his lack of management experience. “I’d just been made sous chef at Sixth Avenue, so I just didn’t think I was ready,” Corbett recalled. “But a few months later, things got worse at Equus. They really needed help, and so they came back to me.” Eager for the challenge, Jack Corbett convinced his son to take ownership together. “We definitely took this on with fear and trembling; neither of us were all that confident,” Corbett said. “I took on all the cooking duties and hiring people, and my dad took care of

We definitely took this on “ with fear and trembling; neither of us were all that confident. ” paying all the bills and management and marketing — things I had no clue how to do.”

No small wager on Equus Equus was in debt and losing money, leaving the Corbetts to cut its unprofitable lunch service and refine its dinner menu. Dean implemented policies and procedures learned during his two years working at Sixth Avenue and its sister restaurant, the venerable Casa Grisanti. Dominic Serratore, then Casa’s executive chef and Corbett’s boss, said his young charge was an exceptionally quick learner who was good in the clutch. www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015

Equus_Design_Fall15_Ed1_Layout 1 8/1/15 7:40 PM Page 32

feature | equus

Veal scallopini stuffed with Genoa salami and Havarti cheese in a port wine reduction appeared on the menu in the 1980’s.

“He also had energy on his side, and he was very ambitious,” said Serratore, now chef and co-owner of Ditto’s Grill. “I was like most everyone, thinking, ‘He’s a little young, but it’s a great opportunity.’ And he showed he could handle it by applying everything he’d learned in our operations.” Within two years, Equus’s sales had doubled and expenses were down by 50 percent. “But we were still only breaking even!” Corbett said. “It was a big hole to dig out of.” The Corbetts then bought a majority share in the business and made more changes. “That move gave us more of a voice in the decision-making,” he said. “And the restaurant just continued to get better.” Three-star restaurant reviews followed and customer counts grew, but the young chef wanted Equus to be recognized among the town’s best. On a fall Saturday morning in 1988, his lofty ambitions were realized when his father called to say The CourierJournal‘s reviewer had awarded it four stars. In only three years, Equus had overcome long odds just to survive, and now it was breathing the rare air shared by Cafe Metro and Casa Grisanti. “I just couldn’t believe it, and I have to admit that I cried,” Corbett said. “It was the proudest moment of my life to that point.”

Lounge of Luxury For months afterward, business at the 60-seat restaurant quadrupled, leaving the men no choice but to execute the first of what would become several expansions of the dining room and kitchen.The largest came in 2000, when Corbett opened Jack’s Lounge, named in honor of his father, who died in 1999. “We’d always wanted a bar, but a classy one, a true martini bar, where people could lounge, smoke and just relax,” Corbett said. “It was tremendously popular from the start.” Even despite its opening night struggles. “We opened the doors to a place with no freakin’ furniture – I’m serious!“ he said. “But people wanted to come in, so we let them in.” When the furniture truck arrived, Corbett recruited partygoers to bring it in. “I gave everyone who was sober — and there weren’t many — a pair of scissors or a knife and said, ‘Let‘s go get the furniture and move it in here,’ ” he said. Originally, customers entered Equus from the building’s left side and Jack’s through its center. But after a decade of explaining to frustrated patrons that the next-door businesses weren’t connected by a doorway, Corbett hired a firm to make the facilities one by cutting a hole through the 18-inchthick firewall. “It took 27 hours to do that,” he said. “Rodulfo had built us a hell of a building.” For almost a quarter century, Equus had been a 32

Equus_Design_Fall15_Ed1_Layout 1 8/1/15 7:41 PM Page 33

equus | feature white tablecloth restaurant, but connecting it to the more casual Jack’s Lounge helped Corbett see it was time to soften the formal edges of the old standard. “That and the recession, which cut spending on fine dining,” he said. “People really started spending less in that stretch.” Kathy Cary, chef and owner of Lilly’s Bistro, made similar changes to her restaurant in 2002. Looking back, she said she regrets waiting so long. “Making our place relaxed was one of the smartest things I’ve ever done, and I know it worked for Dean, too,” she said. “Our customers loved the change … and it’s gone a long way to drawing in younger crowds.” Not everyone accepted the more casual Equus, Corbett said, but “at least by then we had opened Corbett’s, so they could get their fine-dining experience there. Overall, it was a great change I probably should have made earlier.” Longtime Equus fan Thomas Clay said he’s seen Equus adjust multiple times to new trends, and on each occasion, those transitions were seamless. The Louisville attorney said Corbett was wise to merely tinker over time with Equus without overhauling its personality. “(Dean) has maintained some signature dishes which he created during the Equus run — Shrimp Jenkins and the mushroom fumé, to mention only two — (but) he’s not constrained by the past,” said Clay. “He’s also totally hands on when it comes to his enterprises ... a people person who inspires great loyalty from his staff members.” Jim Cover, Equus’ maître d’ for 27 years, agreed, calling Corbett “one of the best people in the world to work for, someone who actually cares about his staff. If they have problems, he’ll personally go out of his way to assist them.” Cover said Equus’ success was born of Dean’s and Jack’s desire to please customers, and that sentiment was shared by their staff. “Equus has always had a team that wanted to make customers happy,” said Cover, who is now retired. “That’s what it’s had going for it: People who are willing to adapt to customers’ needs.”

(clockwise from top left) Equus’s mushroom fumé has been on the menu since the beginning — some regulars say it has healing powers; a favorite on the menu since 1994 is the Parmesan-crusted sea bass with whipped potatoes; another long-time crowd pleaser, the veal sweet breads with shiitake mushroom, has been retired; Equus’s crab cakes — Corbett estimates his restaurant has served more than 750,000 of the dish since he opened; the current menu offers a Parisian gnocchi with country ham. 33

Equus_Design_Fall15_Ed1_Layout 1 8/1/15 7:41 PM Page 34

feature | equus Despite leading Equus for 30 years, slew of talented chefs who matriculated Corbett admits that running even a busy, at Equus before moving on to other profitable business is harder than ever. restaurants. Just a sampling of its culinary Restaurant margins have shrunk drastically alumni still cooking in Louisville include since 1985 as food and labor costs have Dallas McGarity (Marketplace Restaurant soared. at Theater Square), Tavis Rockwell “I’m making far less money now, yet we’re generating much more in sales,” he said. For example, Equus’ legendary Shrimp Jenkins cost $7.50 in 1985; it now costs $24. “Food costs are just out of control these days, and customers don’t always understand why prices have to go up.” Customer desires also are more fluid than ever, he added, saying younger diners want smaller portions and more menu variety. Plus they expect high standards at the bar. “They want lots of good bourbon, and it better be at least a 2-ounce pour,” Corbett said. Under the guidance of veteran bartender Joy Perrine, an employee for 29 years, Jack’s cocktail program expanded dramatically. “That’s especially Banana chocolate chip pudding happened because of the with buttermilk ice-cream. younger crowd that’s looking for great drinks.” Serratore applauds his former charge’s (LouVino), Nick Sullivan (610 Magnolia) ability to adapt to changing trends, saying in- and Finbar Kinsella (Lilly’s Bistro and later, flexibility to customers’ changing desires kills St. Joseph’s Orphanage). Cary said Corbett’s passion for cooking restaurants one quarter Equus’ age. “Dean has developed his own style, and attracts talented chefs whom he inspires to as things have changed, he’s grown tremen- grow and move elsewhere, just as he did. dously as a result,” said Serratore, whose She said he’s also a de facto leader among own restaurant turned 25 this year. Equus the city’s independent restaurant chefs. “He’s the connector among us, kind of and Jack’s Lounge “have the right amount of sophistication, and that implies to customers the glue that holds us chefs together – the that they’ll be taken care of. It hits a certain old ones especially,” Cary said. Corbett said he owes aspiring chefs the chord that applies to a niche demographic same mentorship he received from that supports the business to no end.” Indeed it does. Every Monday through Serratore and many others.That means he’s Saturday, cars begin filling the lot at 4 p.m., constantly teaching newcomers at Equus. “Maybe the hardest part of the job is the when Jack’s opens. If patrons can’t get a cushy lounge seat at Jack’s, they’ll either most important, and that’s to go back and stand or slide back to Equus‘ bar when it train these guys to do the basics right, the opens at 5. The drinks are just as good dishes that our longtime customers love the most,” Corbett said, adding that classics like there, and the setting is quieter. “And you can get the whole menu no his crab cakes require constant retraining. matter which place you’re in,” Corbett said, “When you have customers joking that the adding that it wasn’t always that way. “I fig- mushroom fumé has healing powers, you ured, why not? They’re here, the food’s back know it’s got to be right. Our customers have been coming here a long time, and you there, so let ‘em have what they want.” That’s a mandate heard constantly by a can’t fool them.” F&D 34 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

Equus_Design_Fall15_Ed1_Layout 1 8/1/15 7:41 PM Page 35

equus | feature

Veteran bartender Joy Perrine, an employee for 29 years, heads the cocktail program. Pictured are three of her concoctions â&#x20AC;&#x201D; (from left) Ginger Snap, Bourbon Ball and Ruby Red Slipper.

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015

feature | over the 9

BY CARLA CARLTON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Over the Nine

New eatery highlights Old 502 Winery, Falls City Beer and an emerging part of the city

here is an historic section of Cincinnati that, after decades of neglect and decay, has undergone a remarkable renaissance in the past 15 years, reclaiming its status as a center of dining and entertainment. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s called Over-the-Rhine. In Louisville, there is an historic section of town poised for a similar rebirth. The process is beginning with investment just west of the Ninth Street Overpass, which for years has served as a sort of invisible barrier between downtown and the West End. In 2012, the Old 502 Winery (formerly River Bend Winery) at 120 S. 10th Street was joined by Falls City Brewing Co., a venerable Louisville brand resurrected as a craft brewery. Earlier this year, Kentucky Peerless Distilling had its grand opening in a former tobacco warehouse at 120 N. 10th Street.

36 Fall 2015Â www.foodanddine.com

over the 9 | feature

Now, the owners of the Old 502 and Falls City have added a restaurant to the mix. In a tongue-in-cheek nod to its address and to their Cincinnati roots, it’s called Over the 9. Over the 9, which officially opened on July 17 following a July 3 soft opening, is located in what used to be the Old 502 Winery’s tasting room and gift shop. Once Falls City was added to the complex, owner Neace Ventures wanted to make better use of the space. So Chairman John Neace brought in David Hagan, who runs his restaurant division (Hagan also oversees Fieldhaus in New Albany), as general manager. “I proposed that we take this space and make it a venue to itself,” Hagan said. He met with local Chef Griffin Paulin and said, “This is what I want to do: I want to do food that complements the beer and the

feature | over the 9

(above) Scotch duck egg with chorizo and ground bison with a lingonberry jelly. (right) Asparagus tips with beets, radish, blackberries, carrots and candied cashews with a blackberry vinaigrette.

38 Fall 2015

OVER THE 9 120 South 10th Street 502.252.6671

wine. I don’t want it to be a full-service restaurant; we want to do small plates — items that cater to groups — and really bring up what we see to be two brands that have a lot of unifying traits.” The result is a handsome establishment that serves Old 502’s wines and Falls City’s beers and incorporates them in a short list of sophisticated small plates that elevate the libations. The natural décor — concrete bar, wood-topped tables, exposed ductwork — echoes the brands’ urban, downtown vibe, Hagan said. Paulin, Hagan said, brings validity to the restaurant with local recognition from his stints at Hammerheads, Roux, Rumplings and the Ten Tables program, among others. A Louisville native, Paulin was mentored by his uncle, Chef Michael Driskell of the old Club Grotto and Diamante. After working two years, Driskell showed Paulin a syllabus and asked him if there was anything he still didn’t know how to do. There were four or five things. “He taught them to me and then basically fired me and said go get a job.” Paulin’s vision for the Over the 9 menu is “traditional pub grub, but on another level of execution,” he said. So you’ll find a Scotch egg ($12) on the menu, for instance, but it’s a soft-boiled duck egg wrapped in ground bison and chorizo with charred scallion aioli and lingonberry jelly. The BLT Sliders ($12) are built on brioche with lamb belly, house barbecue sauce, Swiss chard and vine-ripened tomato and topped with a blanched egg yolk. Every dish incorporates either Falls City or Old 502 wine, Paulin said. While Over the 9 is not yet a full-service restaurant, Hagan feels that the short menu (nine or so items) is long on value. “Some (from top) Pork loin skewers with cucumber, sautéed carrots and a pickled ginger vinaigrette; teres major beef tartare on a Bluedog baguette; seared scallops with a cacao chipotle butter and a wakame salad. www.foodanddine.com Fall 2015 39

feature | over the 9

small plate establishments, you spend a lot of money and you don’t get a lot in return. You leave thirsty, you leave hungry,” he said. “With us, we think you get your money’s worth.” Paulin agreed. “You can come in here and for $30 you can have chorizo, bison, duck, foie gras, house-made cashew butter, lingonberry jelly mixed with red wine — you can get a very quality spread of small plates and not feel like you’ve just spent your entire paycheck. I can’t tell you how many times a check has come back to the kitchen and it’s been one of everything on the menu — it’s a party of six or eight people and they want to try everything,” he said. Several of Over the 9’s handcrafted cocktails ($9 each) feature Old 502 wines (the Kentucky Lady Sangria, for example, with Kentucky Lady Wine, Elderflower liqueur, muddled lemon and limes), as well as brandy from Copper & Kings in Butchertown (the Immature Old Fashioned, with Copper & Kings Immature Brandy, Blood Orange bitters and simple syrup). Over the 9 also serves the products of Kentucky Peerless Distilling. “They’re kind of like our sister city,” Hagan said. He plans to have an “uber-local” beverage program focus, partnering with other local breweries and distilleries. At the same time, by drawing on products from Old 502 and Falls City, “we can do a lot of really cutting-edge things with beer pairings, beer dinners, wine pairings and wine dinners that some of the higher end restaurants are doing with outside businesses,” Hagan said. “We can keep it all inclusive.” Pints of Falls City beer are $5 and $6; a draft flight of four is also $6. Old 502 wines are $7 per glass or $21 per bottle. A flight of four wines is $12. “We’re not selling Falls City Beer for a dollar. We’re not selling Old 502 wine cheap,” Hagan said. “These are handcrafted, small-batch products, and we’re going to sell them for value.” 40 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

over the 9 | feature “Handcrafted” is not a term that has been associated with Falls City Beer in some time. Begun in Louisville in 1905, it survived Prohibition and was a dominant regional brewery until large national companies like Miller and Budweiser led to its closure in 1978. The rights to the name passed to Evansville (Ind.) Brewing and then Pittsburgh Brewing Company, but the beer became weak and watered down. For several years it wasn’t produced at all, and the trademark lapsed. Louisville software entrepreneur David Easterling secured the name with the goal of returning high-quality, small-batch beer to the city. John Neace, who already owned Old 502, became an equity partner with Easterling, and together they spent more than $1 million renovating the 35,000-square-foot complex on Tenth Street. Recently, Neace acquired full ownership rights to the brand. While most of Falls City is made on contract in Nashville, a small amount is made in Louisville. Paulin sees a certain symmetry there. “Falls City disappeared. They got a second chance, and it makes a lot of sense that they are reappearing here to give this neighborhood a second chance as well.” He and Hagan hope now that the Ninth Street Rubicon has been crossed, more establishments will join in filling a void. “There’s a lot of work that needs to be done,” Hagan said. “But at the end of the day, if you get companies that unify and under stand that sprawling out is not the answer; that rejuvenation of existing areas is important … my grandparents grew up in Portland. My first memories as a child are from the West End. There are some great companies expanding into this area. You have Against the Grain opening a production facility down here; you have Peerless down the street; Gill Holland wants to really invest in the space … There are so many opportunities to grow a cultured area. “With all the hype around NuLu, Butcher town, Germantown — all of these, like, boroughs of the city — there’s no reason why this area can’t be just as successful.” F&D

(opposite, top) BLT sliders of lamb belly with Swiss chard, tomato and blanched egg on brioche. (opposite, center) Chef Griffin Paulin (front) and General Manager David Hagan. (top) Wines from Old 502 winery on display (right) Wine aging in Bourbon barrels.

food | cooking with ron

COOKING WITH RON GOING HOG WILD WITH A PORK SHOULDER ROAST

BY RON MIKULAK | PHOTOS BY ANDY HYSLOP

Pork shoulder roast, also called Boston butt, is a largish, somewhat imposing cut of meat that I used to shy away from. I understood how to roast pork loin and tenderloin, but that big, often irregularly shaped cut with the anatomically dubious name (Was it a shoulder or a butt? And what did Boston have to do with it?) confused me. That is, until I had the pleasure of “breaking down” half a hog with some friends. Those friends had bought the half-hog from a local farmer who had raised it unconfined on pasture and had it butchered at a USDA-certified slaughterhouse, with the entrails, head and tail removed, and the carcass sawed in half. The 150-pound slab hung in a cooler for a few days before we picked it up and set to cutting it up into ribs and roasts, hams and chops, trotters and pork belly and pork shoulder roast. We had studied up a bit on porcine anatomy and watched an instructional video by Camas Davis of the Portland (Oregon) Meat Collective, a tall, willowy, no-nonsense woman who blithely tossed around half a pig, feeling out various muscle groups, slicing easily down to the bone, and then even more easily with an oversized hacksaw separating the trotter from the shank, the shank from the shoulder, and the shoulder from the ribs. We watched, enthralled and just a bit in love. Then we set to work on our own pig. It was an exercise that, among other things, helped me to understand what a pork shoulder cut was, so that the next time I encountered one in the grocery I had a better idea of what to do with it. And you can do a great many things — tasty things — with a pork shoulder roast, a cut that makes for excellent fall recipes. Pork shoulders are relatively economical per pound. Buying a six- to eight-pound boneless roast can yield a lot of meals — and different kinds of dishes if you are willing to do a little kitchen butchery. Pork shoulders are used by barbecuers for pulled pork. It is the cut used in Latin dishes such as carnitas. Half-inch slabs sliced off the ends make pork shoulder steaks. For any sort of pork stew, go to pork shoulder, just as you would use the analogous beef cut, the chuck. A six-pound shoulder roast can be easily divided with a sharp knife and a little chutzpah into a three-pound roast to 42 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

To make a pork butt manageable, slice off half-inch-thick steaks, cut up about a pound of smaller muscle sections for stew, and leave the rest to braise as a pork pot roast.

braise in citrus and Latin seasonings for cochinita pibil; four eightounce shoulder steaks; and a pound or so of stew meat for a pork pot pie. To break down a shoulder roast, start at the narrower end and slice off a half-inch-thick slab to make a steak. Cut as many steaks as you wish. Look for the seams of the muscle and try to separate one or more large chunks of meat, about a pound or so total. Cut these chunks into one-inch-square cubes for stew or for the pot pie recipe below. The remaining piece can be braised whole to make cochinita pibil. Oh, and about that name: According to Mental Floss, butchers in Colonial New England used to pack less-prized cuts of pork into barrels, or “butts,” for storage and transport. This particular shoulder cut became known as a New England specialty: the “Boston butt.”

Cochinita pibil Braising — long cooking in liquid over low heat — is the way to make this semi-tough, fat-streaked and tendon-laced cut luscious. A slowcooker will do that, but I like braising in the oven, after browning the meat well on the stove. There are various ways to prepare this classic Mayan dish; some recipes call for the meat to be cut into large chunks first, some pull the meat into shreds at the end. The cooked pork can

42-43_Cooking Ron_fall15_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 8/1/15 3:35 PM Page 43

cooking with ron | food be eaten in tacos, but I like to cook a whole three-pound roast, slice it and serve it with rice and beans.

Pan-seared pork steaks with fall fruit garnish This is a fairly quick preparation, and can take many fruit and nut variations. I have made this with peaches in the summer, but fall fruits work very well. Apples are the default fruit with pork, but try pears in season.

3½ pounds pork butt 2 tablespoons vegetable oil Marinade: ¾ cup fresh lime juice ¾ cup fresh orange juice ½ teaspoon ground cloves 1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh garlic 3 tablespoons achiote paste 4 teaspoons ground coriander 4 teaspoons oregano Salt and pepper 1 tablespoon cumin Note: Achiote paste (also sold as annato) is available in Latin markets or in the ethnic food aisle of ValuMarket. In a blender, mix all the marinade ingredients until smooth. Place pork butt in a large, sealable plastic bag, and add the marinade. Seal the bag and turn a few times to coat the meat. Refrigerate three hours or overnight, turning several times. When ready to cook, heat oven to 300 degrees. Remove meat from marinade, and reserve marinade. Heat oil in a heavy pot or Dutch oven until it shimmers. Pat meat dry, add to pot and brown on all sides. Add the reserved marinade and bring to a simmer. Cover pot with aluminum foil, then the lid, place in oven and cook 2½ to 3½ hours. Meat is done when a large fork, such as a barbecue fork, slides into the meat and out without catching and lifting at all. If the fork catches, return meat to oven, covered, for another 20 to 30 minutes and test again. Serves 6.

Pork pot pie 1 pound pork shoulder, cut into ¾-inch chunks Salt and pepper 4 tablespoons flour, divided 3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided 1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and cut into ¾-inch chunks 1 large sweet potato, peeled and cut into ½-inch chunks 1 onion, peeled and chopped 1½ cups apple cider, divided 2 tablespoons fresh sage, chopped ¼ cup chicken or vegetable broth 1 tablespoon cider vinegar 1 sheet pie pastry (refrigerated is fine, or use frozen puff pastry) Place pork pieces in a large bowl, season with salt and pepper and toss with two tablespoons flour until evenly coated. Heat a heavy pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat, and add two tablespoons oil. When oil is shimmery, add the pork, in batches, and brown well on all sides. Remove to a plate. Add remaining oil and when hot, add the apple, sweet potato, onion and chopped sage. Cook, stirring, about two minutes. Add half-cup cider and return pork to the pot. Simmer about 10 minutes, until vegetables are softened. Stir remaining flour into the broth to make a smooth slurry. Add slurry to the pot, along with the remaining cider and the vinegar. Bring to a simmer, stirring, until sauce thickens. Taste and adjust seasoning. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Roll out the pastry so it will cover a two-quart soufflé dish or other ceramic casserole dish. Spoon pot pie filling into the baking dish and cover with the pastry crust. Crimp edges and cut slits to allow steam to escape. Bake until crust is browned and filling is bubbly, 30 to 40 minutes. Serves 4.

4 4-ounce pork steaks, about ½-inch thick, cut from the butt ½ cup flour Salt and pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons unsalted butter ½ cup slivered almonds 1 ripe pear, peeled, cored and sliced 2 tablespoons mild vinegar

Place steaks one at a time between plastic wrap and pound with a mallet or heavy pan, flattening to about quarter-inch thick. Place flour in a shallow bowl and season well with salt and pepper. Dredge the prepared pork steaks in the flour, shaking off excess. Heat the oil in a heavy skillet until shimmery. Add the pork steaks, in batches if necessary to avoid overcrowding, and brown well on both sides. Remove pork and reserve. Add butter, almonds and pear slices to skillet and cook, shaking and stirring, until almonds are browned and pears are softened but not falling apart. Add the vinegar and cook until sauce is shiny. Serve steaks with roasted sweet potato or winter squash. Serves 4. F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 43

44-47_Guide Index_fall15_Layout 1 8/1/15 3:35 PM Page 44

dining guide Cuisine Style African..............................70 Asian/Chinese...................70 Asian/Japanese ................72 Asian/Korean ....................73 Asian/Mongolian ...............73 Asian/Thai ........................73 Asian/Vietnamese .............73 Bar & Grill .........................68 Barbecue ..........................65 Bistro/Contemporary.........52 Cafés................................54 Cafeterias .........................60

Cajun/Creole.....................76 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin .....76 Casual Dining ...................57 Coffee/Tea House..............79 Desserts/Bakery ...............80 Entertainment Dining ........61 European/French ..............74 European/German.............74 European/Irish ..................74 European/Italian................74 European/Spanish.............75

Fine Dining .......................48 Home Style/Southern ........59 Indian ...............................75 Mexican............................77 Microbreweries.................67 Middle Eastern..................75 Pizza.................................61 Sandwich/Deli ..................63 Seafood ............................55 Southwest/Tex Mex...........77 Steakhouse.......................56 Upscale Casual .................49

Area Maps Begin on page 82 Alphabetical Index RESTAURANT

10 Tables 2 Dips & A Shake 211 Clover Lane 321 Deli 610 Magnolia 8Up Drinkery A Nice Restaurant A Taste of China A.J.’s Gyro Café Abyssinia Addis Grill Adrienne & Co. Bakery Adrienne’s Italian Against The Grain Al Watan Aladdin’s Café Alley Cat Café Amici Anchorage Café Andalous Mediterranean Angilo’s Pizza Angio’s Restaurant Ann Marie’s Bacon Bar Annie Cafe Annie May’s Sweets Café Annie’s Pizza Ann’s by the River Anoosh Bistro Another Place Anselmo’s Italian Bistro Apocalypse Brew Works Applebee’s Arata Sushi The Arctic Scoop Argo Sons Coffee Arni’s Pizza Arno’s Pizza Aroma Café Artesano Tapas Vino Y Mas Asahi Japanese Asian Buffet Asiatique Aspen Creek Restaurant Aspire Café Atlantic No. 5 Atrium Café Atypical Man BBQ August Moon B3Q BBQ Backyard Burger The Bakery Bank Street Brewhouse Bar Code 1758 Baraka Restaurant Barasti Bar & Grill Barbara Lee’s Kitchen The Bard’s Town Barry’s Cheese Steaks Basa Modern Vietnamese Baxter’s 942 Bazos Mexican Grill Bean Street Coffee Co.

RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). [ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

49 80 48 63 48 49 57 70 75 70 70 80 74 67 75 75 54 74 54 75 61 61 52 73 80 61 60 52 63 74 67 57 72 80 79 61 61 54 75 72 70 49 57 54 54 52 65 70 65 63 80 67 72 70 75 59 61 57 50 68 77 79

Upscale Casual Desserts/Bakery Fine Dining Sandwich/Deli Fine Dining Upscale Casual Casual Dining Asian/Chinese Middle Eastern African African Desserts/Bakery European/Italian Microbreweries Middle Eastern Middle Eastern Cafés European/Italian Cafés Middle Eastern Pizza Pizza Bistro/Contemporary Asian/Vietnamese Desserts/Bakery Pizza Cafeterias Bistro/Contemporary Sandwich/Deli European/Italian Microbreweries Casual Dining Asian/Japanese Desserts/Bakery Coffee/Tea House Pizza Pizza Cafés European/Spanish Asian/Japanese Asian/Chinese Upscale Casual Casual Dining Cafés Cafés Bistro/Contemporary Barbecue Asian/Chinese Barbecue Sandwich/Deli Desserts/Bakery Microbreweries Asian/Japanese African Middle Eastern Home Style/Southern Entertainment Dining Casual Dining Upscale Casual Bar & Grill Mexican Coffee/Tea House

44 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

MAP #

2 1 3 1 13 1 14, 16 1 14 1 1 16 16 1 4 14 5 13 5 2 13 4 6 13 3 1, 12 16 7 1 2 2 [6] 10 5 6 14 4 14 5 3 14 2 3, 11 1 1 5 3 2 14 6 4 14 2 1 13 2 2 13 2 2 2, 3, 6 14

RESTAURANT

Bearno’s Pizza Beef O’Brady’s Bella Roma Bella’s Diner Bendoya Sushi Bar Big Al’s Beeritaville Big Ben’s BBQ Big Four Burgers + Beer Big Momma’s Soul Kitchen Bistro 1860 Wine Bar Bistro 301 Bistro 42 Bistro Le Relais The Bistro BJ’s Restaurant & Brewhouse Blackstone Grille Blaze Fast Fire’d Pizza BLU Italian Grille Blue Dog Bakery Blue Horse Café Bluegrass Brewing Co. Bluegrass Burgers Bluegrass Café Bombay Grill Bonefish Grill Bonnie & Clyde’s Pizza Boombozz Pizza Boomer’s Café Bootleg Barbecue Co. Borromeo’s Pizza Borsalino Coffee Boudreaux’s Sno-balls Bourbons Bistro Brandon’s BBQ & Pizza Brasserie Provence Bravo! Brazeiros Churrascaria Bread And Breakfast Breadworks Brendon’s Catch 23 Brian’s Deli Brickhouse Tavern & Tap Bristol Bar & Grille Brix Wine Bar Brooke & Billy’s Brownie’s “The Shed” Bruegger’s Bagels Buca Di Beppo Buckhead Mountain Grill Buck’s Bud’s Tavern & Barbecue Buffalo Wild Wings Bungalow Joe’s Bunz Restaurant Burger Boy Burning Bush Grille Butcher’s Best Café 360 Café Aroma Café At Main Street Café Fraiche Café Lou Lou

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

61 68 74 57 72 68 65 57 59 52 52 74 74 60 57 50 61 50 54 57 67 57 54 75 55 61 61 54 65 61 79 80 52 65 74 50 56 80 80 50 63 57 50 52 57 68 63 74 57 48 68 68 68 57 63 75 63 75 77 54 54 52

MAP #

Pizza [12] Bar & Grill 5, 3, 14 European/Italian 14 Casual Dining 13 Asian/Japanese 1 Bar & Grill 2 Barbecue 16 Casual Dining 14, 16 Home Style/Southern 1 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Bistro/Contemporary 1 European/Italian 10 European/French 4 Cafeterias 3 Casual Dining 5 Upscale Casual 10 Pizza 3, 5 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés 2 Casual Dining 13 Microbreweries 1, 3 Casual Dining 3 Cafés 2 Indian 5 Seafood 5 Pizza 12 Pizza 2,3,5,6,15 Cafés 1 Barbecue 11, 13 Pizza 13 Coffee/Tea House 4 Desserts/Bakery 5 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Barbecue 5 5 European/French Upscale Casual 3 Steakhouse 1 Desserts/Bakery 14 Desserts/Bakery 2, 5, 7 Upscale Casual 1 Sandwich/Deli 1 Casual Dining 6 Upscale Casual 1,2,5,10,13,16 Bistro/Contemporary 8 Casual Dining 1 Bar & Grill 2, 5 Sandwich/Deli 3 European/Italian 6 Casual Dining 4, 16 Fine Dining 13 Bar & Grill 12 Bar & Grill 2,3,5,6,8,11, 12,15 Bar & Grill 11 Casual Dining 2 Sandwich/Deli 13 Middle Eastern 10 Sandwich/Deli 10 Middle Eastern 2 2 Middle Eastern Cafés 6 Cafés 7 Bistro/Contemporary 2,3

RESTAURANT

Café Magnolia Café Mimosa Café Montagu Café On Meigs Café Thuy Van Caffe Classico Cake Flour California Pizza Kitchen Captain’s Quarters Cardinal Hall of Fame Café Carrabba’s Italian Grille Casa Fiesta Caspian Grill Persian Café Cast Iron Steakhouse Cat Box Deli Catrachos Restaurant Cattleman’s Roadhouse Cellar Door Chocolates Cena Champions Grill Champions Sports Bar Charim Korean Restaurant Charlestown Pizza Co. Charlie Noble’s Eatery Charr’d Bourbon Kitchen Check’s Café Cheddar Box Café Cheddar’s Casual Café Cheer King Star The Cheesecake Factory Chez Seneba African The Chicken House Chicken King Chili’s China 1 China Bistro China Buffet China Café China Castle China Coast China Garden China Inn China King China Taste Chinese Chef Chinese Express Chipotle Mexican Grill Choi’s Asian Food Market Chong Garden Chopshop Salads Chopsticks Chopsticks House Chung King Chuy’s City Café Clarksville Seafood Clay Oven Clifton Donuts Clifton’s Pizza Clucker’s Wings Coals Artisan Pizza Coconut Beach Tacos Coco’s Cakes Coffee Crossing Come Back Inn The Comfy Cow Con Huevos Cook N’ Company Coqui’s Café Corbett’s ‘an American place’ Corner Café Cottage Café Cottage Inn Crave Café & Catering Cravings a la Carte Creekside Outpost & Café Crescent Hill Craft House Cricket’s Café Crystal Chinese Cuban Flavor Culver’s Cumberland Brews Cunningham’s The Cupcake Shoppe D’Nalley’s Restaurant Daisy Mae’s Dakshin Indian Restaurant DaLat’s Gateaux & Bakery Dancing Sushi Danish Express Pastries Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza Darkstar On The Creek Dasha Barbour’s Bistro Dave & Peg’s Copper Kettle Day’s Espresso Decca Del Frisco’s DelFino’s Italian Bistro Derby Café Derby Dinner Playhouse Desserts By Helen Devino’s Diamond Pub & Billiards Diamond Station Dickey’s Barbecue Pit Difabio’s Casapela Dino’s Bakery DiOrio’s Pizza & Pub Dish On Market Ditto’s Grill Dizzy Whizz Drive-In Doc Crow’s Don Juan Birria Don Vito’s Italian Bistro Donum Dei Brewery Double Dragon

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

57 73 54 54 73 52 80 61 57 57 74 77 75 56 63 76 56 80 50 57 68 73 61 57 50 59 55 57 70 50 70 59 59 57 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 77 72 70 57 70 70 70 77 55 55 75 80 61 68 61 77 80 79 74 80 77 60 55 48 50 60 60 55 60 55 68 55 70 76 57 67 57 80 60 60 75 80 72 63 62 58 60 60 79 51 56 74 55 61 80 63 68 68 66 74 80 62 52 53 63 51 77 74 67 70

MAP #

Casual Dining 1 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Cafés 13 Cafés 16 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Desserts/Bakery 7 Pizza 5 Casual Dining 10 Casual Dining 13 European/Italian 5 Mexican 8 Middle Eastern 2 Steakhouse 10, 16 Sandwich/Deli 1 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 13 Steakhouse 6, 13 Desserts/Bakery 1, 5 Upscale Casual 6 Casual Dining 16 Bar & Grill 1 Asian/Korean 3 Pizza 16 Casual Dining 15 Upscale Casual 6 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 3 Casual Dining 8, 13, 15 Asian/Chinese 1 Upscale Casual 3 13 African Home Style/Southern 14 Home Style/Southern 1 Casual Dining 4, 5, 8, 13 Asian/Chinese 3, 5 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 15 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 16 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Mexican 1, 2, 5, 8 Asian/Japanese 5 Asian/Chinese 12 Casual Dining 1, 3 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,15 Cafés 1 Seafood 15 Indian 5 2 Desserts/Bakery Pizza 2 Bar & Grill 13, 14, 16 Pizza 3, 5 Mexican 13 Desserts/Bakery 1 Coffee/Tea House 14 European/Italian 1, 16 Desserts/Bakery 2,5,13,14, 15 Mexican 2 Home Style/Southern 13 Cafés 14 Fine Dining 8 Upscale Casual 5 Home Style/Southern 5 Home Style/Southern 13 Cafés 2 Cafeterias 1 Cafés 14 Bar & Grill 2 Cafés 15 Asian/Chinese 1 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 11 Casual Dining 6, 15 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining 10 Desserts/Bakery 3 Home Style/Southern 1 Home Style/Southern 14 Indian 11 Desserts/Bakery 13 Asian/Japanese 8 Sandwich/Deli 3 Pizza 13 Casual Dining 10 Home Style/Southern 2 Home Style/Southern 5 Coffee/Tea House 2 Upscale Casual 1 Steakhouse 3 European/Italian 6 Cafés 13 Entertainment Dining 16 Desserts/Bakery 2 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bar & Grill 2, 3 Bar & Grill 3 Barbecue 3, 6 2 European/Italian Desserts/Bakery 4 Pizza 2, 3 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Sandwich/Deli 1 Upscale Casual 1 Mexican 11 European/Italian 14 Microbreweries 11 Asian/Chinese 1, 2

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

MAP #

Double Dragon II 70 Asian/Chinese 8,11,12,13 Double Dragon 9 70 Asian/Chinese 6 Down One Bourbon Bar 68 Bar & Grill 1 Downhome Cafeteria 60 Cafeterias 12 Dragon King’s Daughter 72 Asian/Japanese 2, 14 Drake’s 68 Bar & Grill 3, 8 Dundee Gastropub 53 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Dunkin’ Donuts 80 Desserts/Bakery 2 Eagle Lake & Restaurant 55 Seafood 12 Earth Friends Café 55 Cafés 14 East Star Buffet 70 Asian/Chinese 13 Eastern House 70 Asian/Chinese 12 75 Middle Eastern 2 Eat A Pita Eddie Merlot’s 56 Steakhouse 1 Eggroll Machine 70 Asian/Chinese 2 Eggs Over Baxter 53 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Eggs Over Frankfort 53 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Eiderdown 74 European/German 13 Einstein Brothers Bagels 63 Sandwich/Deli 1 El Burrito Loco 77 Mexican 6 El Camino 77 Mexican 2 El Caporal 77 Mexican 4, 6 El Mariachi 77 Mexican 5 El Marlin Seafood 77 Mexican 6 El Micheladas 77 Mexican 13 El Molcajete 77 Mexican 13 13 77 Mexican El Molcajete El Mundo 77 Mexican 2 El Nopal 77 Mexican [20] El Ranchero 77 Mexican 4 El Rincon 76 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 13 El Sombrero 77 Mexican 16 El Taco Luchador 78 Mexican 2 El Tarasco 78 Mexican 3, 5, 13 El Torazo 78 Mexican 6 El Torito de Jalisco 78 Mexican 13 El Toro Cantina & Grill 78 Mexican 5 Emperor of China 70 Asian/Chinese 7 Empress of China 70 Asian/Chinese 4 The English Grill 48 Fine Dining 1 Equus 51 Upscale Casual 3 53 Bistro/Contemporary 14 Exchange Pub + Kitchen The Falafel House 75 Middle Eastern 2 Famous Dave’s 66 Barbecue 6, 15 Famous Mike’s Steak & Lemonade 58 Casual Dining 13 Fat Daddy’s Pizza 62 Pizza 13 Fat Jimmy’s 62 Pizza 5 FDKY BBQ 66 Barbecue 6 FeastBBQ 66 Barbecue 1, 14 The Feed Bag 63 Sandwich/Deli 3 Fieldhaus 68 Bar & Grill 14 Fiesta Time Amigos 78 Mexican 11 Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 78 Mexican 8 Fire Fresh Bar B Q 66 Barbecue 1, 12 5, 11 Firehouse Subs 63 Sandwich/Deli 58 Casual Dining 5 First Watch First Wok 71 Asian/Chinese 12 The Fish House 56 Seafood 2, 5 The Fishery 56 Seafood 3 The Fishery Station 56 Seafood 11 Five Guys Burgers 58 Casual Dining 3, 8, 11, 14 Flanagans Ale House 68 Bar & Grill 2 Flat 12 Bierwerks 67 Microbreweries 16 Fontleroy’s 53 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Food 4 Ur Soul 60 Home Style/Southern 1 For Goodness Crepes 55 Cafés 2 Forty Acres & A Mule 60 Home Style/Southern 13 68 Bar & Grill 4 Four King’s Café Four Pegs Beer Lounge 53 Bistro/Contemporary 13 Four Sisters 73 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Franco’s Restaurant 60 Home Style/Southern 12 Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot 66 Barbecue 3 Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli & Pizza 64 Sandwich/Deli 8 Frontier Diner 60 Home Style/Southern 12 The Fudgery 80 Desserts/Bakery 1 Fuji Asian Bistro 72 Asian/Japanese 12 Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 72 Asian/Japanese 5, 8 4 Funmi’s African Restaurant 70 African Galaxie 68 Bar & Grill 1 Gallery K 55 Cafés 2 Game 58 Casual Dining 2 Garage Bar 58 Casual Dining 1 Gary’s On Spring 51 Upscale Casual 2 Gasthaus 74 European/German 7 Gatsby’s On Fourth 58 Casual Dining 1 Gelato Gilberto 80 Desserts/Bakery 8 Genghis Grill 73 Asian/Mongolian 8 Gerstle’s Place 68 Bar & Grill 3 Ghyslain 74 European/French 1, 8 Gigi’s Cupcakes 80 Desserts/Bakery 6 Ginza Asian Bistro 72 Asian/Japanese 5 Golden Buddha 71 Asian/Chinese 13 60 Home Style/Southern [4] Golden Corral Golden Star Chinese 71 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Wall 71 Asian/Chinese 13 Good Ole’ Jessie’s 60 Home Style/Southern 12 Goodwood Brewing Co. 67 Microbreweries 1 Goose Creek Diner 58 Casual Dining 8 Gordon Biersch Brewery 67 Microbreweries 1 Grady’s Burgers & Wings 58 Casual Dining 1 Gralehaus 53 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Granville Inn 68 Bar & Grill 13 Grape Leaf 75 Middle Eastern 2 Great American Grill 68 Bar & Grill 13 Great Harvest Bread Co. 80 Desserts/Bakery 5 Great Wall 71 Asian/Chinese 2 Great Wok 71 Asian/Chinese 13 Green Leaf Vegetarian 58 Casual Dining 13 Griff’s 68 Bar & Grill 13 Grind Burger Kitchen 58 Casual Dining 13 Guaca Mole 78 Mexican 5 Gypsy’s Sports Grille 68 Bar & Grill 11 Habana Blues Tapas 76 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 14 Hall’s Cafeteria 60 Cafeterias 2 Hammerheads 53 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Hanabi Japanese 72 Asian/Japanese 10 www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 45

44-47_Guide Index_fall15_Layout 1 8/1/15 3:36 PM Page 46

RESTAURANT

Happy China Happy Dragon Hard Rock Café Harley’s Hardwoodz BBQ Harvest Havana Rumba Havana Rumba & Tapas Bar Hawksview Gallery Hay Chi Wa Waa Healthy Eating Heart & Soy Heine Brothers Coffee Heitzman Bakery & Deli Hibachi Sushi Buffet Highland Coffee Co. Highland Morning Highlands Taproom Grill Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar Hill Street Fish Fry Hilltop Tavern Hitching Post Inn Hobknobb Roasting Co. Holy Grale Home Run Burgers Homemade Pie Kitchen Hometown Buffet Hometown Pizza Honey Creme Donut Shop Honeybaked Café Hong Kong Fast Food Hoops Grill and Sports Bar Hooters Howl at the Moon Hunan Wok IHOP Indi’s Restaurant The International Mall The Irish Rover Iroquois Pizza Israel’s Delicias de Mexico J. Alexander’s J. Graham’s Café J. Gumbo’s J. Harrods Jack Binion’s Jack Fry’s Jackknife Café Jack’s Lounge Jade Palace Jasmin Bakery Jasmine Jason’s Deli Java Brewing Co. Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse Jersey’s Café Jersey Mike’s Subs Jet’s Pizza Jimbo’s BBQ Jimmy John’s Sub Shop JJ Fish & Chicken Joe & Kathy’s Place Joe Huber Restaurant Joella’s Hot Chicken Joe’s Crab Shack Joe’s O.K. Bayou Joe’s Older Than Dirt John O’Bryan’s Tavern Johnny Brusco’s Pizza Johnny V’s The Joy Luck Jucy’s Smokehouse Jumbo Buffet Kailana Sushi Kansai Japanese Karem’s Kashmir Indian Kayrouz Café Kenna’s Korner Kern’s Korner Khalil’s Kingfish King’s Fried Chicken Kobe Japanese Steak Kolkin Coffee Koreana II Krispy Krunchy Chicken L & J Asian Cuisine La Bamba La Cocina de Mama La Hacienda Guadalajara La Peche La Popular La Que La Riviera Maya La Rosita Taqueria La Sierra Las Gorditas Le Gallo Rosso Le Moo Lee’s Korean Lemongrass Café Lenny’s Sub Shop Lilly’s Ling Ling Little Caesars Pizza Little India Café Little Jerusalem Liu’s Garden Logan’s Roadhouse Lolitas Tacos Inc. Lone Wolf Sports Bar Longhorn Steakhouse Lonnie’s Taste Of Chicago Los Aztecas Lotsa Pasta Lou Orleans Loui Loui’s Detroit Pizza

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

71 71 54 66 51 76 76 51 78 60 72 80 81 71 80 55 68 72 56 68 68 80 54 58 81 60 62 81 64 71 68 58 61 71 58 60 74 74 62 78 51 55 76 51 48 48 81 54 71 81 71 64 80 56 68 64 62 66 64 56 58 61 60 56 76 58 68 62 62 71 66 71 72 72 58 75 55 62 58 68 56 60 72 80 73 60 71 78 78 78 55 78 73 78 78 78 78 74 56 73 73 64 48 71 62 75 75 71 56 78 68 56 64 78 64 76 62

MAP #

Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 6 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Barbecue 16 Upscale Casual 1 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 3,5 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 2 Upscale Casual 13 Mexican 5 Home Style/Southern 1 Asian/Japanese 2 Coffee/Tea House [14] Desserts/Bakery 5 Asian/Chinese 11, 13 Coffee/Tea House 2 Cafés 2 Bar & Grill 2 Asian/Japanese 1, 5 Seafood 13 Bar & Grill 2 Bar & Grill 11 Coffee/Tea House 14 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Casual Dining 3, 5, 6, 13 Desserts [9] Home Style/Southern 6,3 Pizza 7 Desserts/Bakery 14 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11, 14 Asian/Chinese 13 Bar & Grill 13 Casual Dining 3,13,12,15,16 Entertainment Dining 1 Asian/Chinese 11 Casual Dining 6, 15 Home Style/Southern [8] European/Italian 1 European/Irish 2 Pizza 13 Mexican 14 Upscale Casual 3 Cafés 1 Cajun/Creole 1,2,6,16 Upscale Casual 10 Fine Dining 14 Fine Dining 2 Desserts/Bakery 2 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Asian/Chinese 5 Desserts/Bakery 4 Asian/Chinese 5 Sandwich/Deli 3, 5 Coffee/Tea House 2 Steakhouse 1 Bar & Grill 15 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 Pizza 2, 3 Barbecue 13 Sandwich/Deli [11] Seafood 16 Casual Dining 12 Entertainment Dining 14 Home Style/Southern 3 Seafood 1 Cajun/Creole 6 Casual Dining 5 Bar & Grill 12 Pizza 8 Pizza 6 Asian/Chinese 2 Barbecue 5 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Japanese 11 Asian/Japanese 6, 15 Casual Dining 8 Indian 2 Cafés 3 Pizza 8 Casual Dining 2 Bar & Grill 12 Seafood 6, 7, 16 Home Style/Southern 13 Asian/Japanese 16 Coffee/Tea House 14 Asian/Korean 13 Home Style/Southern 13 Asian/Chinese 10 Mexican 2 Mexican 14 Mexican 13 Cafés 2 Mexican 13 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Mexican 13 Mexican 5, 13 Mexican 11 Mexican 11 European/Italian 2 Steakhouse 2 Asian/Korean 13 Asian/Vietnamese 5 Sandwich/Deli 4 Fine Dining 2 Asian/Chinese 5 Pizza [12] Indian 4 Middle Eastern 13 Asian/Chinese 5 Steakhouse 3, 6, 12, 15 Mexican 13 Bar & Grill 12 Steakhouse 6, 8, 13, 15 Sandwich/Deli 2, 13 Mexican 5, 10 Sandwich/Deli 3 Cajun/Creole 1 Pizza 6

46 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

RESTAURANT

Louis Le Francais Louis’s “The Ton” Louisville Coffee Co. Louisville Pizza Co. Louisville Tea Co. LouVino Lucky House Luigi’s Lydia House Ma Zerellas Maa Sha Allah Main Eatery Mai’s Thai Restaurant Majid’s St. Matthews Mango’s Bar & Grill Manhattan Grill Manny & Merle Marco’s Pizza Marketplace Restaurant Mark’s Feed Store Marlyce’s Place Marric’s Restaurant Martini Italian Bistro Masa Japanese Masala Grill Match Cigar Bar Mayan Café McAlister’s Deli Me Gusta Latin Kitchen Mellow Mushroom The Melting Pot Meridian Café Mesh Mexican Fiesta Mikato Japanese Mike Linnig’s Mike’s Tavern MilkWood Mimi’s Café Mimo’s Pizzeria Mirage Mediterranean Grill Miss Ada’s Mitchell’s Fish Market Moca Diner Moe’s Southwest Grill Mojito Tapas Restaurant Molly Malone’s Momma’s Mustard, Pickles Momma’s Pizza The Monkey Wrench More Shenanigan’s Morris Deli & Catering Morton’s of Chicago Mount Everest View Mr. Gattis Mr. Lee’s Ichiban Japanese Mrs. Potter’s Coffee Mt. Fuji Muscle Monkey Café Mussel & Burger Bar My Favorite Muffin My Old KY Dinner Train NamNam Café Nancy’s Bagel Box Nancy’s Bagel Grounds Napa River Grill Neil & Patty’s Fireside Grill New Albanian Brewing Co. New Albany Roadhouse New China New Direction Bar & Grill Noodles & Company Nord’s Bakery North End Café O’Charley’s O’Dolly’s O’Shea’s Irish Pub The Oakroom Oishii Sushi Old Chicago Old Hickory Inn Old School NY Pizza Old Spaghetti Factory Old Stone Inn Ole Hickory Pit BBQ O-Line Sports Grill The Olive Garden Olive Leaf Bistro Ollie’s Trolley Onion Restaurant & Tea House Orange Clover Kitchen Oriental Café Oriental House Oriental Star Original Impellizzeri’s Osaka Sushi Bar Outback Steakhouse Over the 9 Overtime Sports Bar P. F. Chang’s China Bistro Panda Chinese Panda Express Panera Bread Co. Papa John’s Papa Murphy’s Pizza Papalino’s Italian Pub Passtime Fish House Patrick O’Shea’s Pat’s Steak House Paul’s Fruit Market Pearl Street Treats Peking City Bistro Peking City Express Penn Station Peppers Bar and Grill Perfetto Pizza Pesto’s Italian

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

74 69 80 62 80 54 71 62 54 62 70 64 73 54 79 58 54 62 54 66 81 60 74 72 75 54 79 64 79 62 51 55 51 79 72 56 69 48 58 62 75 60 56 58 77 75 74 66 62 58 74 64 56 75 62 72 80 72 64 54 81 61 74 64 64 52 58 62 58 71 69 58 81 54 58 60 74 48 72 62 69 62 74 52 66 69 74 54 64 71 55 71 71 71 62 72 56 68 69 52 71 71 64 62 62 62 56 74 56 64 81 71 71 64 58 62 75

MAP #

European/French 14 Bar & Grill 1 Coffee/Tea House 6 Pizza 6 Coffee/Tea House 5 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Asian/Chinese 3 Pizza 1 Bistro/Contemporary 13 Pizza 15 African 4 Sandwich/Deli 1 16 Asian/Thai Bistro/Contemporary 3 Mexican 6, 13 Casual Dining 1 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Pizza 14 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Barbecue 2, 5, 11, 12, 14 Desserts/Bakery 15 Home Style/Southern 11 European/Italian 8 Asian/Japanese 5 Middle Eastern 1 Bistro/Contemporary 16 Mexican 1 Sandwich/Deli [9] Mexican 1 Pizza 2, 3, 5 Upscale Casual 6 Cafés 3 Upscale Casual 3 Mexican 4 Asian/Japanese 8 Seafood 12 Bar & Grill 14 Fine Dining 1 Casual Dining 5 Pizza 14 Middle Eastern 13 Home Style/Southern 1 Seafood 8 Casual Dining 8 Southwest/TexMex 3,6,8,11,15 European/Spanish 7 European/Irish 2, 3 Barbecue 3, 5 Pizza 15 Casual Dining 2 European/Irish 4 Sandwich/Deli 1, 2 Steakhouse 1 Indian 4 Pizza 13, 15 Asian/Japanese 3 Coffee/Tea House 1 Asian/Japanese 13 Sandwich/Deli 6,8,15 Bistro/Contemporary 6 Desserts/Bakery 5 Entertainment Dining 13 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Sandwich/Deli 1 Sandwich/Deli 2 Upscale Casual 5 Casual Dining 14 Pizza 14 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Chinese 5 Bar & Grill 5 Casual Dining 6, 8 Desserts/Bakery 13 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Casual Dining 3,6,8,13,12,15 Home Style/Southern 13 European/Irish 2 Fine Dining 1 Asian/Japanese 4 Pizza 6, 8 Bar & Grill 13 Pizza 5 European/Italian 1 Upscale Casual 5 Barbecue 11 Bar & Grill 8 European/Italian 6,8,11,15 Bistro/Contemporary 16 Sandwich/Deli 1 Asian/Chinese 14 Cafés 16 Asian/Chinese 4 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 13 Pizza 1, 2, 10 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Steakhouse 3,8,11,13,15 Microbreweries 1 Bar & Grill 13 Upscale Casual 5 Asian/Chinese 10 Asian/Chinese 6, 15 Sandwich/Deli [9] Pizza [30] Pizza 3,4,5,8,11,12,14,15,16 Pizza 8 Seafood 6 European/Irish 1 Steakhouse 2 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 5, 7 Desserts/Bakery 16 Asian/Chinese 5 Asian/Chinese 3 Sandwich/Deli [17] Casual Dining 1 Pizza 6 European/Italian 1

RESTAURANT

Petra Mediterranean Pho Binh Minh Pieology Pina Fiesta Mexican Grill Pink Baron BBQ Pita Pit Pizza Donisi Pizza King Pizza Place Planet Bar & Bistro Please & Thank You Pleasure Ridge Place Plehn’s Bakery Plump Peacock Bakery Ponderosa Steakhouse Poppy’s Café & Coffee Porcini The Post Potbelly Sandwich Shop Primo’s Delicatessen Prince Hookah Lounge Proof On Main Prospect Café Puerto Vallarta Qdoba Mexican Grill Queen of Sheba Queue Café Quick Wok Quill’s Coffee Quizno’s Subs Rafferty’s of Louisville Raising Cane’s Ramiro’s Cantina Ramsi’s Café Red Hot Roasters Red Robin Red Sun Chinese Red Yeti Brewing Co. Red’s Comfort Food River City Drafthouse River City Winery River Road BBQ Riverside Café Rivue Rocky’s Pizza & Panini Rocky’s Sub Pub Romano’s Macaroni Grill Roof Top Grill Roosters Rootie’s Sports Bar Roots Rosie’s Pizza Rosticeria Luna Roux Rubbie’s Southside Grill Rubbin’ Butts BBQ Ruby Tuesday The Rudyard Kipling Rumors Raw Oyster Bar Rumplings Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse Ryan’s Steakhouse Rye SaE Café Saffron’s Safier Mediterranean Deli Saigon One Saint’s Sake Blue Sakura Blue Sala Thai Sal’s Pizza & Wings Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina Sam’s At The Montrose Sam’s Food & Spirits Sam’s Gyro Sam’s Hot Dog Stand Santa Fe Grill Sapporo Japanese Grill Sarang Schlotzsky’s Deli Scotty’s Ribs & More Scotty’s Village Market Seeds & Greens Deli Selena’s Willow Lake Tavern Señor Iguana’s Sergio’s World Beers Seviche A Latin Restaurant Shack In The Back BBQ Shady Lane Café Shah’s Mongolian Grill Shalimar Indian Shandaar Indian Shane’s Rib Shack Shark’s Fish & Chicken Shawn’s Southern BBQ Shenanigan’s Irish Grille Shiraz Mediterranean Grill Shirley Mae’s Café Shogun Shoney’s Sichuan Garden Sicilian Pizza & Pasta Sidebar The Silver Dollar Simply Thai Sin Fronteras Sir Dano’s Pizza Parlor Sister Bean’s Skyline Chili Smashburger Smoke & Rye Smokehouse BBQ Smoketown USA Smokey Bones BBQ Smokey’s Bean Snappy Tomato

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

75 74 62 79 66 75 62 62 62 69 80 62 81 55 56 55 75 62 64 64 75 52 55 79 79 70 55 71 80 64 58 58 79 54 80 58 71 68 64 69 54 66 55 49 62 62 75 76 58 69 72 62 79 76 66 66 58 58 56 72 56 56 52 64 75 75 74 69 72 72 73 62 77 58 59 76 59 79 72 73 65 66 65 65 76 79 69 49 66 65 73 75 75 66 56 66 74 76 60 72 59 71 62 54 54 73 79 62 80 59 59 54 66 66 66 80 62

MAP #

Middle Eastern 4 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Pizza 6 Mexican 12 Barbecue 16 Middle Eastern 5, 6 Pizza 13 Pizza 14, 16 Pizza 4 Bar & Grill 2 Coffee/Tea House 2 Pizza 12 Desserts/Bakery 3 Cafés 5 Steakhouse 13 Cafés 13 European/Italian 2 Pizza 13 Sandwich/Deli 1, 8 Sandwich/Deli 14 Middle Eastern 13 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés 10 Mexican 11, 14, 16 Mexican [16] African 4 Cafés 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Coffee/Tea House 2, 13, 14 Sandwich/Deli 1,5,13,14,15 Casual Dining 3, 8 Casual Dining 8, 11 Mexican 2 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Coffee/Tea House 1, 2 Casual Dining 3, 8 Asian/Chinese 4 Microbreweries 16 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bar & Grill 2 Bistro/Contemporary 4 Barbecue 7 Cafés 16 Fine Dining 1 Pizza 4 Pizza 16 European/Italian 5 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 1 Casual Dining 5,12,13,15 Bar & Grill 8 Asian/Japanese 2 Pizza 5 Mexican 13 Cajun/Creole 2 Barbecue 13 Barbecue 15 Casual Dining 6, 15 Casual Dining 1 Seafood 5 Asian/Japanese 2 Steakhouse 3 Steakhouse 11 Upscale Casual 1 Sandwich/Deli 1 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 1 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Bar & Grill 3 Asian/Japanese 11 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian/Thai 11 Pizza 5 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,5 Casual Dining 15 Casual Dining 14 Middle Eastern 6 Casual Dining 2 Mexican 13 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Asian/Korean 2 Sandwich/Deli 8 Barbecue 5 Sandwich/Deli 8 Sandwich/Deli 14 Cajun/Creole 5 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 13, 15 Bar & Grill 2 Fine Dining 2 Barbecue 13 Sandwich/Deli 7 Asian/Mongolian 6, 13 Indian 6 Indian 6 Barbecue 7 Seafood 13 Barbecue 14 European/Irish 2 Middle Eastern 5, 7, 13 Home Style/Southern 1 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Casual Dining 5, 13 Asian/Chinese 6 Pizza 1 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Asian/Thai 3, 5 Mexican 15 Pizza 15 Coffee/Tea House 13 Casual Dining 2, 3, 6, 12 Casual Dining 1, 5 Bistro/Contemporary 14 Barbecue 11 Barbecue 1 Barbecue 6 Coffee/Tea House 13 Pizza 8

RESTAURANT

Sol Aztecas Spaghetti Shop Spinelli’s Pizzeria Sporting News Grill The Sports & Social Club Spread Buffet, The Spring St. Bar & Grill Star Sushi Starbucks Coffee Starlight Coffee Co. Starving Artist Café State Donuts Steak N Shake Stevens & Stevens Deli Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen Stoney River Stout Burgers & Beer Stricker’s Café Sub Station II Sugar & Spice Donut Shop Sunergos Coffee SuperChef’s Sway Sweets Frog Sweet Peaches Sweet Stuff Bakery Sweet Surrender Sweetie Pie Soul Foods Sweets By Morgan Sweets & Such Bakery Taco Tico Tacqueria La Mexicana Taj Palace TanThai Restaurant Taqueria Ramirez Tavern On Fourth Taziki’s Mediterranean Café Tazza Mia TC’s Sandwich Shoppe Tea Station Chinese Bistro Teena’s Pizza Texas Roadhouse Texicans BBQ Pit TGI Friday’s Thai Café Thai Noodles Thai Siam That Place On Goss The Back Door The Café The Cheddar Box The Cheddar Box Too The Cure Lounge The Goat The Kitchen The Lighthouse Tienda La Chapinlandia Tin Roof Toast On Market ToGo Sushi Tokyo Japanese Tom + Chee Tomo Tony Impellizzeri’s Toonerville Deli Troll Pub Under The Bridge Tucker’s Tumbleweed Tuscany Italian Restaurant Tut’s Mediterranean Twig & Leaf Restaurant Uptown Café Varanese Verbana Café Vic’s Café Vietnam Kitchen Village Anchor Pub & Roost Ville Taqueria Vincenzo’s Vint Coffee Volare W.W. Cousin’s Wagner’s Pharmacy Wall Street Deli Ward 426 Way Cool Café Webb’s Market Wei Wei Chinese Express Wick’s Pizza Wild Eggs Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion Wild Rita’s William’s Bakery Wiltshire On Market Wiltshire Pantry Bakery The Wing Zone Wingstop Winston’s Wonton Express Yaching’s East West Cuisine Yafa Café Yang Kee Noodle Yellow Cactus Yen Ching Yen Hapa Yoli’s Cafeteria You-Carryout-A Yummy Pollo Zäd Modern Mediterranean Zanzabar Za’s Pizza Zaxby’s Zegg’s Amazing Eggs Zen Garden Zoe’s Kitchen Zoup! Z’s Oyster Bar

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

79 75 62 69 69 59 69 72 80 80 65 81 59 65 75 56 59 55 65 81 80 59 52 81 60 81 81 60 81 81 79 79 75 73 79 69 76 80 65 71 63 56 66 59 73 73 73 59 69 55 55 55 69 69 60 69 79 69 59 73 73 65 73 63 65 69 59 77 75 76 59 52 52 55 69 74 54 79 49 80 75 65 60 65 49 55 60 71 63 55 73 79 81 52 55 59 70 49 71 52 55 71 79 72 74 76 72 76 76 70 63 59 55 74 76 65 49

MAP #

Mexican 2, 11 European/Italian 11, 14 Pizza 1, 2, 3, 8, 12 Bar & Grill 13 Bar & Grill 1 Casual Dining 14 Bar & Grill 2 Asian/Japanese 16 Coffee/Tea House [35] Coffee/Tea House 14 Sandwich/Deli 5 Desserts/Bakery 8 Casual Dining [6] Sandwich/Deli 2 European/Italian 7 Steakhouse 8 Casual Dining 2 Cafés 16 Sandwich/Deli 13 Desserts/Bakery 11 Coffee/Tea House 1, 13 Casual Dining 3 Casual Dining 1 Desserts/Bakery [4] Home Style/Southern 1 Desserts/Bakery 14 Desserts/Bakery 2 Home Style/Southern 13 Desserts/Bakery 16 Desserts/Bakery 12 Mexican 12 Mexican 13 Indian 8 Asian/Thai 14 Mexican 11 Bar & Grill 1 Middle Eastern 5 Coffee/Tea House 6 Sandwich/Deli 1 Asian/Chinese 8 Pizza 13 Steakhouse 2, 5, 12, 13, 15 Barbecue 7 Casual Dining 1 Asian/Thai 7 Asian/Thai 13 Asian/Thai 4 Casual Dining 13 Bar & Grill 2 Cafés 1 Cafés 3 Cafés 3 Bar & Grill 13 Bar & Grill 5 Home Style/Southern 12 Bar & Grill 16 Mexican 13 Bar & Grill 3 Casual Dining 1, 14 Asian/Japanese 5 Asian/Japanese 7 Sandwich/Deli 2, 3, 13 Asian/Japanese 14 Pizza 14 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bar & Grill 1 Casual Dining 14 Southwest/Tex Mex [10] European/Italian 13 Middle Eastern 4 Casual Dining 2 Upscale Casual 7 Upscale Casual 2 Cafés 8 Bar & Grill 14 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Mexican 3 Fine Dining 1 Coffee/Tea House 2 European/Italian 2 Sandwich/Deli 3, 13 Home Style/Southern 13 Sandwich/Deli 1 Fine Dining 2 Cafés 1 Home Style/Southern 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Pizza 2, 5, 8, 14 Cafés 1, 3, 5 Asian/Japanese 2 Mexican 1 Desserts/Bakery 15 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés 2 Casual Dining 13 Bar & Grill 6, 12 Fine Dining 4 Asian/Chinese 4 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés 1 Asian/Chinese 5 Mexican 14 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 13 Asian/Chinese 15 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 13 Middle Eastern 3 Bar & Grill 13 Pizza 2 Casual Dining [5] Cafés 8 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Middle Eastern 1, 3, 8 Sandwich/Deli 1 Fine Dining 5 www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 47

GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price:

$$ = under $8 $$$$ = $15-$20 $$ = $9-$14 $$$$ = $21 & up RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

p = Full Bar

OPEN PAST 10 P.M.

f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

 = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise). All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812 or 930.

211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln., 896-9570. To locate 211 Clover Lane you have to negotiate St. Matthews side streets and cross railroad tracks and look into the corner of a little cluster of upscale shops. When you do, you can enjoy drinks in a newly expanded lounge, and dine off seasonal menus from chef Allen Heintzman, who, along with owner Andrew Smith, keeps 211 Clover Lane among the town’s top tables. $$$$ Br L D pf

48 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Since taking over this Old Louisville landmark restaurant over a decade ago, Edward Lee has become a Food TV fixture, and opened new restaurants. Nick Sullivan is executive chef at this perennial top table. The monthly family style pasta and bistro dinners across the street in the Wine Studio give diners a way to appreciate 610’s style at a lower price point. $$$$ D pf BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. Elegant and understated, this fine dining room in the Mayflower Apartments is overseen by chef Andrew Welenken, who has kept long-standing favorites like the crispy fish, but has extended his menu into new areas, such as the fried oysters Rockefeller, maple-Bourbon glazed pork chop and countryfried quail. Rick Bartlett continues his long tenure at the piano. $$$ L D hpfe CORBETT’S ‘AN AMERICAN PLACE’ 5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 327-5058. Dean Corbett, longtime fixture on the Louisville dining scene, went all-out with his East End destination. Housed in the stunning former Von Allmen mansion, Corbett’s kitchen is state of the art, the dining room amenities include a chef’s table with closed circuit TV connection to the kitchen, and his menu has been earning raves. Worth the trip and the price. $$$$ L D hpf ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. Executive chef Josh Bettis oversees the formal dining room of one of downtown’s historical hotels. The Hot Brown is still on the menus, but new dish tempt visitors and old timers: seared scallop Benedict (with a quail’s egg), 12-hour braised short ribs, fennel pollen and orange stuffed whole branzino. The chef’s table in the kitchen is still a great place for a special party. $$$ D p JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. When you hit it big at the Horseshoe Casino, you can celebrate here

with a fantastic steakhouse dinner. Where to start, oysters Rockefeller or shrimp cocktails? How ’bout French onion soup or crab bisque? Then, Chilean sea bass, lobster tail, rack of lamb or a choice of prime steak, including Wagyu tenderloin. It’s everything a high roller craves. $$$$ D hp JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. Inside its unprepossessing exterior is one of Louisville’s longestrunning top tables. Seating is tight; it is noisy; but the food is consistently excellent. Chef McClain Brown has now taken the helm, promising to keep classic menu items that regulars love while looking to modernize the restaurant’s infrastructure a bit, and gradually introduce some new cooking techniques. $$$$ L D hpe LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. A Louisville institution for more than a quarter-century, Lilly’s, under much heralded owner-chef Kathy Cary, continues to be as fresh as the locally-sourced foods she features on her Kentucky-accented menus. Her frequent special wine dinners are among the more affordable and creative in the area. $$$$ Br L D p MILKWOOD 316 W. Main St., 584-6455. Owner Edward Lee has made the downstairs space at Actors Theatre a dining destination even after curtain call and when the theater is dark. Executive chef Kevin Ashworth’s menu blends Asian and Southern influences and has received national attention. The sleek, clean updating of the space is both chic and welcoming. $$$ D p THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-3200. Chef de cuisine Patrick Roney captains the kitchen at Seelbach’s AAA five-diamond awarded formal restaurant. His clever menu features a sophisticated and contemporary blend seafood, beef and pork served with local and seasonal ingredients. Insider tip: You won’t regret putting your wine choices in the hands of sommelier Julie DeFriend. $$$$ Br D pe

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

RIVUE RESTAURANT & LOUNGE 140 N. Fourth St., (Galt House Hotel) 568-4239. The sleek black and white modern decor, slowly spinning to give a panorama of the city, brings to mind an old Fred Astaire movie. New chef Dustin Willet’s upscale menu adds another top hotel dining experience to the city. $$$ Br D hp SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. Chef Anthony Lamas’ menu offers an eclectic range of Latin American dishes in addition to the namesake the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tart citrus juices. Continuing to get notice throughout the Southeast for his imaginative cooking, he is setting a standard of cool for the Bardstown Road eating scene. $$$$ D hpf VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ L D hpe WARD 426 426 Baxter Ave., 365-2505. The Brewery sports bar has been refurbished into an elegant, warm fine dining space, where chef Shawn Ward’s lunch and dinner menus feature regional American fare with a Southern twist. Among the dishes winning raves: gnocchi with duck and Worcestershire gastrique, red kuri squash soup, salt-roasted barramundi, roasted rabbit and an interesting range of vegetarian choices. Shrimp and grits, of course, and a country ham tasting platter. $$$$ L D hpf WINSTON’S RESTAURANT 3101 Bardstown Rd. (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Higher education meets higher cuisine at this elegant oncampus restaurant staffed by Sullivan culinary arts students. But this is no college lab; it’s an attractive and stylish restaurant. Chef John Castro runs the staff through its paces guaranteeing that while students are learning their craft, your dinner will ace the test. Open Fri. - Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$$ Br L D p Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE 101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000, 115 S. Fourth St., 855-8000. Both the original suburban, and the sleek downtown outlets of this successful upscale steak and oyster concept offer splendid steaks, extra ordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience. $$$$ L D

8UP ELEVATED DRINKERY AND KITCHEN 350 W. Chestnut St. (Hilton Garden Inn), 631-4180. This glassed-in rooftop restaurant and bar sits eight floors above the new hotel at the corner of Fourth and Chestnut. There are three areas of elegant space — an upscale casual dining room, the bar with a separate kitchen and menu, and then the expansive outdoor patio that overlooks the seldom-seen North of Broadway urban vistas. The bar kitchen has two wood-fired ovens, and offers amusing small plates to nibble while sipping; the main kitchen serves elegant dinners, and provides breakfasts for guests. $$$ B D hpf 10 TABLES 962 Baxter Ave., 822-1282. The pop-up concept devised by Dustin Staggers (Roux) and his chef buddies Eric Morris (Hammerheads, Loop 22) and Ethan Ray (Roux) continues strong. Now settled for a while at Eggs Over Baxter on Monday nights, seating is by lottery conducted at Facebook.com/TenTablesLouisville. If you are lucky to get one of the 40 seats, you get whatever the boys want to cook that night. Nearly every dinner served thus far has been a sellout. $$$ D p ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. More than twenty years ago Chef Peng Looi introduced Louisville diners to pan-Asian Pacific Rim fusion cuisine. Now in his sophisticated, multi-level, Bardstown Rd. restaurant he has refocused the

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music  = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 49

menu on small plates, still displaying the multiethnic Pacific cuisines of his Malaysian homeland. $$$ Br D hpf BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE 2244 Frankfort Ave., 896-1016. Chef Michael Ton brought a new style of Asian fusion cuisine to Louisville, playing entertaining riffs off Vietnamese cooking, with daring choices like caramelized catfish claypot and tamarind-sriracha gelato. $$$ D hp BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, 228-6962. Longtime restaurateur Rick Dissell has settled into his comfortable, casual restaurant in the Prospect Center. The menu offers sandwiches and an array of bistro entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. The monthly LobsterFest night is worth checking out. $$$ Br D pf BLU ITALIAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 627-5045. BLU offers upscale Italian cuisine in a handsomely configured dining room. From Tuscan grilled prawns to house-made ravioli to espresso-dusted pork chop and seafood risotto, diners are sure to find agreeable fare of BLU’s menu. $$$ B Br L D pe BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491. Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Romanruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and firstrate grilled meats. $$ Br L D hpf BRENDON’S CATCH 23 505 S. Fourth St. (Embassy Suites), 909-3323. This new restaurant inside Embassy Suites shares a name with restaurants in Florida, but the Louisville location is an independent operation with its own menu focus, which includes a variety of options ranging from seafood to steak to Low Country cuisine. $$$ D hp BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 456-1702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995, 6051 Timber Ridge Dr., 292-2585, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 218-1995. A corner stone of Louis ville’s restaurant renaissance, The Bristol started three decades ago on Bardstown Road. Now with six venues around town, diners can always find dependable pub grub, eclectic entrées, and evergreen standards like the green-chile won tons and the Bristol Burger. F&D columnist Scott Harper has crafted an exceptional wine selection. $$ Br L D

hpf 

CENA 9200 Taylorsville Rd., 333-0376. Owner Fernando Martinez has re-conceived the elegant space below Mussel & Burger Bar as an upscale casual Italian restaurant. Antipasti, primi secondi, contornia and dolce are served in shareable portion sizes. Menu ideas include grilled baby octopus, bone marrow al forno, a salumi selection, gnocchi with fennel sausage and porchetta. $$$ D hp CHARR’D BOURBON KITCHEN & LOUNGE 1903 Embassy Square Blvd. (Marriott Louisville East), 4911184. The J’town Marriott Hotel’s restaurant is on the Urban Bourbon Trail, which explains menu divisions such as “10 Minute White Dog” lunch choices, and “Bootlegger Burger Bar.” The bar boasts over 75 offerings of Bourbon. $$$ Br L D hp THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd. (Mall St. Matthews), 897-3933. One of 175 outlets of the California-based chain, this popular restaurant maintains a large and diverse menu that entices and satisfies a wide range of diners. Food quality is above average for this kind of restaurant chain, though its namesake cheesecakes are baked in California and North Carolina. $$$ Br L D hpf CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119. This family-owned and operated, classier-than-theaverage-strip mall place has quietly turned out delicious menus for better than 25 years. The 50 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

Frederick family serves an eclectic menu (blackened tenderloin, lump crab meat-encrusted sea bass, Andouille-stuffed chicken, garlic-basil chicken pizza), and dishes like Irish pork have won prizes at local charity contests. $$$ L D hp DECCA 812 E. Market St., 749-8128. Decca’s handsomely re-done 19th-century building, its serene garden, its classy basement bar and breezy secondfloor eating balcony are all fun. But chef Anne Pettry’s inventive, locally sourced menu combined with the restaurant’s wine program make it a classy place to dine. Live music in the garden in nice weather; in the bar when not. $$$$ D hpfe DOC CROW’S 127 W. Main St., 587-1626. Doc Crow’s solidly anchors the dining choices on Whiskey Row. Oysters from both coasts, raw and fried, fried green tomatoes, pork rinds, shrimp and grits, all served in a handsome renovation of one of Main Street’s classic cast-iron front buildings. $$ L D hp EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. For 30 years now (a remarkable run in the restaurant biz) chef-owner Dean Corbett’s first restaurant (he is now involved in several others) continues to please locals and out of town visitors with its casual atmosphere and menu focus on clever re-imaginings of comfort foods. This St. Matthews spot remains an enduring and delightful dining choice. $$$ D p GARY’S ON SPRING 204 Spring St., 584-5533. Chef Harold Baker has been at the helm of this Irish Hill upscale casual spot since the start. His menu features appetizers such as a baby Hot Brown and chicken fritters with red chili sauce, a buffalo mozzarella salad, bison ribeye, Bourbon Street scallops and eggplant Napoleon. $$$ D phpfe HARVEST 624 E. Market St., 384-9090. Agricultural entrepreneur Ivor Chodkowski’s venture into the restaurant world has succeeded beyond his initial imaginings. Chef Coby Ming’s seasonal menus, intensely focused on sourcing ingredients within a 100-mile radius, increases diners’ awareness of how much local food producers can do. Dishes such as smoked goat cheese ravioli and buttermilk fried chicken with arugula hoecake show what they have in mind. $$$ Br L D hpf HAWKSVIEW GALLERY AND CAFÉ 170 Carter Ave., Shepherdsville KY, (502) 955-1010. In this “American bistro with a Southern twist,” diners eat amidst a gallery of hand-crafted glass art. Daily specials are inspired by world cuisines and the “confectionary artist” creates sweets like Linzer tortes and extreme turtle cheesecake. Watch glass being blown as you dine. $$ Br L D e J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfortably upscale venue, a Nashville-based chain, features “contemporary American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ D hp J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. For more than 20 years people have driven to Prospect for the well-prepared, old-school menu offerings at J. Harrod’s. Served with aplomb in a quiet, comfortable dining room, the substantial menu includes grilled steaks and chops, pasta, seafood, fried green tomatoes and chicken livers with gravy. $$$ D p MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125. This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ D hp MESH 3612 Brownsboro Rd., 632-4421. This East End spot once housed Bauer’s, then La Paloma, and then Azalea, but the new lush modern building and the casual/elegant menu have all but scotched those old memories. Now here you can find mushroom and goat cheese strudel, roasted chicken with grits and halibut, all served in an atmosphere of

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music  = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 51

“contemporary elegance and comfort.” Happy hour features a $2 bar menu. $$$ Br L D pf NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 423-5822. You will find an eclectic mix of California-inspired fusion dishes here at lunch, dinner or brunch served in a clean, crisp, informally classy atmosphere. Lunch offerings range from their own take on Hot Browns (Creole roasted turkey on focaccia, with Alfredo sauce) to tacos to pad thai to shrimp po’ boy or a Philly steak sandwich. Dinner choices range from blackened sea bass to prime rib-eye to Vandouvan chicken. Napa River, as it’s known locally, is a long-time favorite that keeps itself fresh, with a lovely patio for lazy summer dining. $$$ L D

hpf 

OLD STONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY, (502) 722-8200. For many years diners have happily driven out to Simpsonville to enjoy both the historic building and the traditional Kentucky menu of this dining institution. Those in the know order the fried chicken and country ham. $$$ Br L D pfe P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 327-7707. This Arizona-based, Chinese themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinesestyle dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$$ L D hpf PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St. (21c Hotel), 2176360. Executive chef Mike Wadja has kept the bison burger and the charred octopus, favorites from Proof’s start, even as he has put his own stamp on the menu, with dishes such as roasted cauliflower vegetarian entrée, hog chop from the restaurant’s own Woodland Farm, and extensive charcuterie choices. The bar remains one of the hippest in town.$$$ Br L D hpf RYE 900 E. Market St., 749-6200. New York hip meets Kentucky farm produce and meats, and the result is a daily menu focused on what is freshest. Every dish is created with unpretentious flair and served

in a sleek — if noisy — East Market Street ambience. Chef Tyler Morris’s house-made charcuterie program is exceptional. $$ L D hpf SWAY 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. The handsome dining room on the entry level of the hotel has a bar that opens to Fourth street in good weather, and a menu based on the “Southern Way,” from whence comes the name Sway. The fried chicken, cooked to order, quickly became a signature dish, and chef Logan Sandoval has got the timing of the tricky dish down to a science. $$$ B L D hpf UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 458-4212. The Uptown has been an excellent spot for lunch and bistro-style dinners for so long that people seem to take it for granted. Those in the know find it an excellent value, for its Highlands location and sophisticated ambience, as well as the eclectic modern menu that includes seasonal small plate selections by long-time chef Matt Weber. $$$ L D hpf VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. Chef John Varanese has made even old-timers forget that this stylish venue was once a gas station. With a slate interior waterfall and a front wall that folds open in good weather, the dining room is as interesting as the lively, international seasonal menu. Live jazz, contemporary art and urban style complete the mood. $$$ D hpfe

YACHING’S EAST WEST CUISINE 105 S. Fourth St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractive mix of East and West, sufficient to give just about everyone something to enjoy, regardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ L D hp

ANN MARIE’S BACON BAR 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 708-2507. Why someone didn’t think of a baconcentered restaurant sooner is a mystery. Owner Ann Marie Dunlap describes her restaurant as Southern farm to table, with some of its bacon cured and smoked in-house. The restaurant also offers entrées and sandwiches with turkey, beef and duck bacon. “We snap our green beans and we make homemade biscuits,” Dunlap brags, adding that most of her menu items are family favorites. $$ L D hp ANOOSH BISTRO 4864 Brownsboro Rd., 690-6585. Anoosh Shariat’s Brownsboro Center space has an eclectic lunch and dinner menu that includes panseared ruby trout, veal de peto, grilled romaine salad, and house-made pastas. $$ L D p

VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian.)

ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ B L D hp

WILTSHIRE ON MARKET 636 E. Market St., 5895224. Understated elegance and creative dishes characterize this NuLu restaurant. The finely crafted small plates menu changes weekly to showcase the best seasonal ingredients. Start with the weekly charcuterie board or cheese plate, followed by a seasonal flatbread or salad, and perhaps a pasta dish. Open Thur.-Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$ D pf

BISTRO 1860 WINE BAR 1765 Mellwood Ave., 6181745. Chef Michael Crouch’s concept of offering most dishes at three sizes and/or price ranges — petite for tasting, appetizer and small entrée — allows diners to explore the menu at a reasonable cost. The homey old Butchertown building is comfy and chic. During fair weather, dine in the shady garden, or ask to be seated in the Camel Lounge upstairs. $$$ D hpf BISTRO 301 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. Its central location across the street from the Convention Center and a short stroll from the Yum! Center makes this stylish casual bistro a good choice for food and drink before or after an event. You can enjoy chef James Lucas’s classic modern menu in the noisy, hospitable bar, or in the quieter dining room off to the side. $$$ L D pf BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838. It’s a comfortably upscale-casual restaurant, and a great bar, with a very comprehensive Bourbon list. Chef Jeff ”The Dude” Bridges has been reinvigorating this Crescent Hill favorite’s menu to match the excellence of its libations. $$$ D pf BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120. The use of an obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a short bistro-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $$ D hpe CAFÉ LOU LOU 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776, 2216 Dundee Rd., 459-9566. Critical raves and packed-in crowds at both locations testify to the popularity of Owner-Chef Clay Wallace’s international bill of fare and laissez les bon temps rouler mood. $$ Br L D hp CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. At first a coffee bar, but over the years the classy space at Clifton and Frankfort has matured into an elegant bistro serving an eclectic menu — salmon croquettes with wasabi aioli, empanadas, an international array of salads, panini, bocadillos and pizzas. A stylish place for lunch, or a hip stop for a late-night supper. $$ B L D fe DISH ON MARKET 434 W. Market St., 315-0669. Owner Anderson Grissom has made old-timers almost forget the old Delta Restaurant, whose location he took several years ago. Offering breakfast,

52 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

lunch and dinner in the comfortable, brick-walled space, you can get your day going with eggs, omelets or bread pudding French toast. Lunch on salads, sandwiches or burgers or choose a dinner entrée (meatloaf, say, or chicken and waffles) any time of the day or night. $ B Br L D pf DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129. This informally whimsical Highlands space masks the work of classically trained owner-chefs Dominic Serratore and Frank Yang. Sure, take note of the fanciful artwork adorning the exposed brick walls and the gargoyles in the ceiling. But don’t overlook Serratore’s “gourmet casual” menu of New England crab cakes, fanciful salads and Sunday brunch egg dishes. $$ Br L D hpf DUNDEE GASTROPUB 2224 Dundee Rd., 4586637. The longstanding Dundee Tavern has a new name and new owners, veterans of the Bristol organization. They’ve revamped it a bit, and upgraded the menu, but it is still a good bet for a relaxed evening at a neighborhood restaurant with moderate prices. Look for things like goat cheese lollipops, truffle fries, the BELT sandwich (bacon, egg, lettuce and tomato), short rib grilled cheese, white bean and country ham soup and a pub burger. $$ L D hp EGGS OVER BAXTER 962 Baxter Ave., 822-1282. Cortney and Jackson Nave, who found a ready Crescent Hill fan-base for their breakfast place Eggs Over Frankfort, have expanded into the Highlands space that recently was Wasabiya Japanese. The full liquor license allows them to offer breakfast and lunch daily and brunch on weekends. $ B Br L EGGS OVER FRANKFORT 2712 Frankfort Ave., 7094452. Husband and wife team Jackson and Cortney Nave have creatively refurbished this Crescent Hill space into a “very traditional” breakfast spot. Its menu includes omelets, eggs Benedict, waffles and oatmeal, as well as salads and sandwiches for lunch. $ B Br L EXCHANGE PUB + KITCHEN 118 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 948-6501. Owner Ian Hall has made his gastropub in a sumptuously renovated historic building such a fun place to sit and sample the eclectic bistro-style menu that he has had to expand his dining room and patio. Wash things down with something from its substantial beer, wine and cocktails list that even includes housemade ginger ale. $$ L D hpfe FONTLEROY’S 2011 Grinstead Dr. Allan Rosenberg (founder of Papalino’s and former chef at Cena) has turned the former Uncle Maddio’s space at the corner of Bardstown Rd. and Grinstead Dr., into Fontleroy’s, an upscale gastropub named after an early 20th century Louisville mayor. His focus will be American food fashioned with his own tweaks. The seasonal menu will include house-made charcuterie served with craft cocktails. $$$ Br L D

hpf

FOUR PEGS BEER LOUNGE 1053 Goss Ave., 634-1447. Four Pegs has settled in nicely to the Germantown scene. Twelve craft beers on tap and a 30 bottle beer list brings in the fans, who also appreciate the award-winning veggie burger and other well-priced pub grub such as a chicken and waffle sandwich and an estimable burger with bacon-fried green tomatoes and beer sauce. $ D h f GRALEHAUS 1001 Baxter Ave., 454-7075. In the house behind the Holy Grale’s beer garden is Gralehouse, a café and deli. Its breakfast and lunch menu includes biscuit and duck gravy, an openface short rib sandwich, crepes, and a coffee bar, with house-made sodas, shrubs and kombucha. Also beers on tap and in the cooler. $$ B Br L f HAMMERHEADS 921 Swan St., 365-1112. One of the more unusual restaurant spaces in town, Hammerheads is also one of the hippest. Adam

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music  = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 53

48-81_Guide_fall15_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/1/15 3:38 PM Page 54

Burress and Chase Murcerino, who share owner and chef duties, fire up their BBQ smoker streetside, and fans far and wide flock to the semibasement space on the edge of Germantown to partake of pulled pork and beef brisket, pork and lamb ribs, roasted duck sandwiches, pork belly BLTs and soft shell crab tacos. $ D h HARD ROCK CAFÉ 424 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-2202. Louisville’s Fourth Street Live echoes with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs at the local branch of this popular shrine to rock. The music scene is the draw, but you’ll have no com plaints about Hard Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ L D hpfe  HOLY GRALE 1034 Bardstown Rd., 459-9939. There are a lot of places to quaff craft beers in town, but Holy Grale’s frequently changing draft selection is among the most esoteric. Couple that with the seasonally adapted menu of chef Joshua Lehman and the oddity of being housed in a renovated church (the upstairs bar is aptly named “The Choir Loft”) and you have a unique dining and drinking experience. $ L D h e

marinated steak, grilled chicken, burgers and cheeses. $$ D p MUSSEL & BURGER BAR 9200 Taylorsville Rd., 384-4834. Guaca Mole’s Fernando Martinez and his family stretch their ambitions and imaginations with an affordable “American bistro concept” featuring mussels with six different sauces, and 12 clever twists on burgers. Located in a strip mall just beyond the Hurstbourne Lane -Taylorsville Road intersection, it is worth seeking out, both for the food and for the comfy bistro atmosphere created in the cavernous space tricked out by former owners. L D hpe NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770, 2116 Bardstown Rd., 690-4161. Both locations of this long-time favorite offer hearty and unusual breakfasts, satisfying lunches and dinners. With an eclectic menu of diverse tapas and interesting entrées, it’s an appealing, affordable place to dine. $$ B Br L D hpfe

more than 50 craft and import choices accompany 55 Bourbons to boot. $$$ Br L D hpf

ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544. This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is affordable and appealing. $ L THE ANCHORAGE CAFÉ 11505 Park Rd., 708-1880. Upscale Anchorage has an eminently suitable place for breakfast, lunch and brunch — as well as a takeout bakery offering quiches, scones, pies, and cookies. For breakfast try oatmeal or toast and jam; for lunch, a soup, salad or sandwich, all made with local seasonal ingredients. $ B Br L D f AROMA CAFÉ Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. Grab a bite before hitting the casino. Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ B L D hp

OLIVE LEAF BISTRO 130 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 913-1252. Walk over the Big Four bridge for a meal that draws on the rich food traditions of countries ringing the Mediterranean. Olive Leaf Bistro serves everything from tagines to chicken Forestiere, oysters Rockefeller to eggplant Napoleon, and Greek salad to paella. $$$ L D

ASPIRE CAFÉ, DELI & FRESH MARKET 418 S. 18th St., 804-4756. This African-soul food fusion restaurant, with artist studios above the café, offers healthful food to a community often regarded as being in a “food desert.” His menu includes vegetarian and vegan foods, including his specialty, a Nigerian stew. A deli and market offers freshly made items and health-food groceries. $$ B L D fe

LOUVINO 1606 Bardstown Rd., 365-1921. Travis Rockwell, longtime executive chef at Equus/Jack’s Lounge, has crafted the small plates menu offered at this immediately popular Highlands wine bar. Look for duck fat frites, loaded baked potato tots, shrimp and grit cakes with spicy tomato jam, hot brown mac and fried chicken tacos. $$ Br D pfe

RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700. The beating bohemian heart of the Highlands. Ramsi Kamar brings a wonderfully eclectic spirit to the environment and to his menu, with Cuban, Jamaican, Greek and Middle Eastern dishes. Moderate prices, a weekend brunch and late night hours add to the draw. $$ L D hpf 

LYDIA HOUSE 1101 Lydia St., 718-6002. For generations the Germantown spot was Flabby’s bar and grill. This new incarnation has slowly mutated from a breakfast spot to a lunch stop with interesting soups, sandwiches and salads, and a neighborhood bar stop with an extensive bar menu, and even a popular weekend brunch place. Soon, a miniature golf course will be added to the patio. $$ B Br D

RIVER CITY WINERY 321 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 945-9463. Ten of owners Gary and Melissa Humphrey’s wines medaled in the June 2011 Indy Inter national Wine Competition. Their honest, straightforward wines and Italian-inspired menu, featuring brick-oven pizzas, draw appreciative crowds. Don’t miss the crab cakes with black-eyed pea salsa. $$ Br L D e

ATLANTIC NO. 5 605 W. Main St., 883-3398. New owners Mary Wheatley and Rebecca Johnson offer fresh takes on breakfast and lunch in this sharp Main St. renovation. Eat in or take away hearty biscuits, ham slider breakfast sandwiches, bagels or house-made granola. At lunch choose simple grilled cheese or PB&J or specialty sandwiches like Mediterranean tuna or Cuban press. Hearty salad bowls too, and soups. $ B Br L pfe

JACK’S LOUNGE 122 Sears Ave., 897-9026. A sophisticated, elegant bar associated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but excellent menu featuring appetizers and light bites, along with a drinks list beyond reproach. $ D pf

MAJID’S ST. MATTHEWS 3930 Chenoweth Sq., 6182222. At his classy Chenoweth Square location long-time restaurant entrepreneur Majid Ghavami offers classic dishes from different parts of Europe, with the backbone of the menu focused on Mediterranean cuisine. Look for well-prepared standards like duck with orange sauce, and, of course, Majid’s signature rack of lamb. In the sophisticated lounge, choose from a lively small plates menu while listening to jazz standards most every night. $$$ Br D pfe  MANNY & MERLE 122 W. Main St., 290-8888. Tony Palombino’s latest addition to his eclectic local empire serves up contemporary Mexican street food (Mod Mex) and a funky bar menu that highlights an impressive collection of tequilas and Bourbons. A major C&W music venue, with live acts most nights of the week, featuring Nashville bands as well as local talent tending to the rawer, honkytonk end of the country spectrum. $ L D hpe  MARKETPLACE RESTAURANT AT THEATER SQUARE 651 S. Fourth St., 625-3001. Going to the opera, a concert at the Palace or a show at the Mercury Ballroom? Chow down first at Marketplace. The elegant decor, whether at the circular bar, in the serene dining room, or any of the three outdoor spaces will get you in the mood, and Chef Dallas McGarity’s seasonal Italian influenced southern cuisine will get you to the curtain well fed indeed. $$ L D hpf MATCH CIGAR BAR 207 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 725-7475. This classy cigar and Bourbon lounge specializes in elegant cocktails, premium cigars and offers a small menu including Bourbon54 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

hpf

SIDEBAR AT WHISKEY ROW 129 N. Second St., 384-1600. On the west side of Whiskey Row, above Troll Pub under the Bridge, Sidebar focuses on burgers, Bourbon and beer, a potentially boffo combo for those going to or coming from the Yum! Center across the street. The emphasis is on craft cocktails served alongside a short but bold selection of sandwiches, appetizers and desserts. $$ L D hpe THE SILVER DOLLAR 1761 Frankfort Ave., 259-9540. In this Clifton honky tonk bar and restaurant, the music, all on vinyl, is the “Bakersfield sound” — a fusion of Mexicali and American roots music. The southern country-style menu with sophisticated nuances has happy fans crowding in most nights. Choose from more than 80 Kentucky Bourbons, ryes, tequila and mescal, but no “foreign whiskey” like Scotch. $$ Br L D hpf SMOKE & RYE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, (812) 9696423. This replacement for the Legends restaurant focuses on house-ground burgers and BBQ (with buns baked fresh daily on premises) and offers, according to management, “one of the nation’s largest selections of Bourbon and Rye whiskey found under a single roof.” Sip your specialty cocktails or spiked milkshakes while listening to live music. $$ L D hpe VILLAGE ANCHOR PUB & ROOST 11507 Park Rd., 708-1850. In the heart of Anchorage at the old train station is this two-level Euro-village inspired concept. On the upper level, a French bistro a la Moulin Rouge with an outdoor terrace. Downstairs at The Sea Hag the ambience is a British pub. The hearty upscale comfort food-style menu is served lunch and dinner with weekend brunch. A short, well-selected wine list and ambitious beer list with

BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. Tables are always at a premium at this popular Crescent Hill breakfast and lunch spot. And its artisanal bakery continues to produce hearty European-style breads that have set a gold standard on restaurant tables and in better grocery stores around town. $$ B L f BLUEGRASS CAFÉ 3819 Bardstown Rd., 459-2320. This little lunch spot in the Derby City Antique Mall in Buechel has a daily hot table buffet line plus a menu of soups, salads and sandwiches. On Sundays it offers a brunch buffet with a choice of breakfast and luncheon dishes. $ Br L BOOMER’S CAFÉ 722 W. Main St., 585-4356. In the midst of the booming West Main Street arts and museum district, this lunch spot offers standard American café fare. $ L CAFÉ AT MAIN STREET 10317 Watterson Trl., 2675111. This bright, lively lunch place moved into the city from Bullitt County trailing loyalists and drawing new fans. A typical day of specials might include tomato cheddar or butterbean soup, asparagus and chicken quiche, warm brie spinach salad and a selection of house-made pies and cakes. $ B Br L CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Brownsboro Rd., 894-8929. Cuisine from around the world is featured at this East End neighborhood café, featuring homemade soups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ B L CAFÉ MONTAGU 1930 Bishop Ln., 451-6357. This breakfast and lunch place provides breakfasts and lunches mainly to the denizens of the Watterson Towers office complex. Home-style cooking, daily specials (meatloaf, pastas) and quick service keep the wheels of business rolling. $ B L CAFÉ ON MEIGS 425 Meigs Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8515. The menu at this downtown J’ville lunch spot emphasizes fresh local ingredients and the avoidance of preservatives and processed ingredients. Although the usual suspects are there —

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

48-81_Guide_fall15_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/1/15 3:38 PM Page 55

chicken salad, roast beef sandwiches with Swiss cheese and red onion, Benedictine, grilled cheese, Cobb salad — all are done with integrity. $ L CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 2452622. An attractive — and busy — Middletown lunch spot, owner Michelle Bartholmew serves popular salads, sandwiches and soups, as well as hot entrées such as potato-chip-crusted whitefish, specialty pizzas, and lemon-tarragon chicken with orzo. Pick up some frozen appetizers for your next cocktail party. $ L D f CITY CAFÉ 505 W. Broadway, 589-1797, 500 S. Preston St., 852-5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingredients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ L COQUI’S CAFÉ 147 E. Market St., New Albany, IN. 557-2564. The tiny, 10-seat red-and-white diner in downtown New Albany that previously housed the Little Chef has become Coqui’s Café, serving Southern favorites infused with a Latin flair such as pulled pork sandwiches and flan, for instance. $ B Br L D f CRAVE CAFÉ & CATERING 2250 Frankfort Ave., 896-1488. Experienced caterers and chefs offer casual but quality café fare in this comfortable old frame house in Clifton. $$ L D CREEKSIDE OUTPOST & CAFÉ 614 Hausfeldt Ln., New Albany IN, 948-9118. The Creekside Outpost warps customers back into the days of general stores and maintains every bit of old-fashioned charm. Serving up buffalo, elk and surprisingly good burgers. Exotic foods including Shinnecock ice fish, black bear, ostrich and kangaroo (when available) round out an excellent, traveled menu. $$ B L f CRICKET’S CAFÉ 7613 Old Hwy. 60, Sellersburg IN, 246-9339. Offering breakfasts and lunch to local Hoosiers and travelers who take exit 7 off I-65. Full breakfasts, omelets, and breakfast sandwiches. A full range of standard lunch sandwiches, with Reubens, Philly steak and cheese, and daily specials. Homemade soups and salads, too. $ B Br L f DERBY CAFÉ 704 Central Ave., (Kentucky Derby Museum) 637-1111. Lunch served year-round in the dining area adjacent to the Derby Museum with such regional favorites as meaty burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ L pf EARTH FRIENDS CAFÉ AND COFFEE BAR 415 Bank St., 944-2577. This spot has led a peripatetic existence, starting in New Albany, then settling in NuLu, and then briefly downtown in the corner space of the Convention Center. But now it has returned to its Southern Indiana roots, sliding into the kitchen space at New Albanian Brewing Co.’s Bank Street Brewhouse. Vegans can indulge in Philly cheese steaks made with seitan, or a BLT+A, with tempeh and avocado. Vegetarian choices include wraps and rice bowls, and meat eaters have several chicken preparations — all served alongside NABC beers, of course.$ B Br L FOR GOODNESS CREPES 619 Baxter Ave., 6907441. The sincere young owners fill their French pancakes with savory fixings (like cheeseburger and pizza crepes for lunch) and sweets (such as cookies-and-cream cream and s’mores fillings for dessert). Salads and soups served too, and glutenfree options $ B L D GALLERY K 1600 Story Ave., 243-7015. It’s an art gallery and a coffee shop featuring work by local artists. Red Hot Roasters and Wiltshire Pantry provide the coffee and snacks, while Copper & Kings serves up its new line of soda. $$ D e HIGHLAND MORNING 1416 Bardstown Rd., 3653900. You can order breakfast anytime at this Highlands space, with an eclectic menu that also encompasses brunch, burgers, soul food, Southern dishes and vegetarian fare as well. $ B L D h

J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, J. Graham’s offers a more casual bistro-style alternative to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $$ B L pf KAYROUZ CAFÉ 3801 Willis Ave., 896-2630. Tucked in among St. Matthews sidestreets is one of the best sandwich places in Louisville. The tuna salad, Portobello mushroom Reuben, fish, chicken and hamburger — all are innovative and all come with some of the best fries in town. $ L D f LA PECHE GOURMET TO GO AND CAFÉ 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. Kathy Cary’s return to her roots with this popular gourmet take-out counter, reinstalled in the corner of her restaurant, Lilly’s, features “tried and true” dishes like grilled chicken pasta, burgers, vegetarian sandwiches, chicken salad, “lots of great produce, affordable cuts of meat” and a dessert case that always includes strawberry pie. $$ B L D MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian Ave., 897-9703. Kristin Fults, former partner in Bluegrass Burgers, took over the operation of this cozy breakfast and lunch spot in March. The menu’s current balance of hearty vegetarian and meat-friendly options will remain, but the facilities are getting some modern touches. There’s a new spacious outdoor patio and the main bathroom was recently overhauled. Breakfast is served all day and Sunday breakfast is coming by June. $ B L f ORANGE CLOVER KITCHEN & MORE 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-1005. Find quick breakfast and lunch items here, such as the Orange Clover muffin: poppy seed and blood orange flavors with a blood orange drizzle, as well as a cupcake version with cranberries. Two soup specials offered every day out of a recipe rotation of 75 possibilities won’t result in many repeats. $ B L PLUMP PEACOCK BAKERY AND CAFÉ 11601 Main St., Middletown 681-3814. After selling her bakery items at farmers markets around town, owner Liz Wingfield has settled into Middletown. After shopping Middletown’s cute shops, stop in for sandwiches, high tea and a full range of bakery items. $ B L POPPY’S CAFÉ AND COFFEE 4214 Bishop Ln., 3651871. What opened last year as Rob-A-Que barbecue restaurant has been revamped by owner Rob Bailey into a quick-service breakfast and lunch spot. At breakfast, Poppy’s offers doughnuts, bagels, breakfast sandwiches, breakfast burritos and Scotch eggs. The lunch menu has soups, salads, deli and hot sandwiches, pulled pork, pulled chicken and brisket sandwiches, and house-made cole slaw and potato salad. $ B L PROSPECT CAFÉ 9550 US Hwy. 42, 708-2151. Conveniently located at the intersection of River Rd. and Hwy. 42, stop in for hot sandwiches (Cuban, Reuben, grilled Italian, Bourbon BBQ) or cold deli stuff — club sandwich, egg, tuna or chicken salad, or soups like chicken and dumplings. Chess bars and banana pudding too. $ L QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $ B L f RIVERSIDE CAFÉ 700 W. Riverside Dr. (Sheraton Hotel), Jeffersonville IN, 284-6711. The breakfast room and bar of the Sheraton Riverside. Breakfast served until 10:30 a.m. Unwind at the bar at night. $$ B pf STRICKER’S CAFÉ 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 218-9882. Family style restaurant serving hearty soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, melts and breakfast too, in suburban Jeffersonville. $ B L  THE CAFÉ 712 Brent St., 637-6869. You can see the traffic on East Broadway from The Café’s serene walled patio. Choose from an eclectic breakfast and lunch menu, including old favorites like tomato

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music  = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

dill soup and chicken salad. Or eat inside and be amused at the yard-sale look of mismatched furniture and chandeliers and doorways to nowhere, reminiscent of its former location in an antique mall. $ B Br L f THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 8932324. For more than 25 years this St. Matthews tradition has delighted ladies who lunch, hungry students who munch, and just about everyone else with their sandwiches, pasta salads and tasty desserts. It caters parties with almost 50 choices of appetizers, party sandwiches, dips, cheese rings and crostini. $ L f THE CHEDDAR BOX TOO 109 Chenoweth Ln., 896-1133. Cheddar Box owner Nancy Tarrant has extended her presence with a café just across the parking lot. Look for the same tasty salads, soups and desserts that have made her take-away business so popular. $ B L VERBENA CAFÉ 10639 Meeting St., 425-0020. This Norton Commons eatery is open early for breakfast and serves hearty lunches till midafternoon, but you can order breakfast or lunch at any of those hours. $$ B L f WAYCOOL CAFÉ 120 W. Broadway, 582-2241. Wayside Christian Mission trains people here in its community re-entry program in restaurant service and management. Breakfasts for under $5; a lunch buffet is $8 for unlimited trips. A dinner menu too. It’s a do-gooder place that serves good food. $ L D WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005, 1311 Herr Ln., 618-2866, 153 S. English Station Rd., 6183449, 121 S. Floyd St., 690-5925. Specialty omelets, the everything muffin, spicy egg salad sandwiches — these dishes and more have made Wild Eggs a wildly popular breakfast and lunch spot. Prized seats at weekend brunch can now be found at this growing mini-chain’s fourth outlet. $ B Br L p WILTSHIRE PANTRY BAKERY AND CAFÉ 901 Barret Ave., 581-8561 Caterer/restaurateur Susan Hershberg adds a bakery and café operation to her local empire. Baker Diana Rushing makes artisanal breads, scones and croissants, sandwiches and paninis, side salads and lots more. $ B L YAFA CAFÉ 22 Theater Sq., 561-0222. $ L D

ZEGGZ AMAZING EGGS 4600 Chamberlain Ln., 425-3454. Out in the ‘burbs off the Snyder X-way, this breakfast and lunch place offers five house omelets (plus the chance to build your own), three variations on eggs Benedict, as well as biscuits and gravy, croque madames, waffles, pancakes and luncheon sandwiches. $$ B Br L pf

BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4124666. This franchise concept from the Floridabased Outback Steakhouse chain offers impressive seafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish to your short list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ D hp CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 283-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple — fried fish and fried seafood, served on paper trays — but it is consistently excellent and affordable. And now open until 8 p.m. most nights. $ L D EAGLE LAKE & RESTAURANT 7208 Whipple Rd., 937-7658. If you like to fish, or if you like to eat fish, you’ll likely enjoy Eagle Lake, a simple, downhome eatery in Southwestern Jefferson County. Seafood is the specialty. Fishermen will enjoy their stocked pay-to-fish lake. Note though, it’s not possible to have your catch fried for dinner. $$ L D f

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 55

THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2993. Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signature of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. And on weekends the space morphs into Café Beignet, serving hearty breakfasts and New Orleans-style beignets. $ Br L D f THE FISHERY 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188. The original fried-fish eatery in a neighborhood that’s now awash with them, The Fishery remains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and affordable fish and seafood meals. $ L D f FISHERY STATION 5610 Outer Loop, 968-8363. $$ LD HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474. This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to miss, but it’s worth the effort to find. Its oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ L D f

choose drinks, visit the salad bar and await visits from “gaucho chefs” who bring yard-long skewers of grilled meats (beef, lamb, sausage) to your table for slicing — as much as you wish — along with side dishes. $$$$ L D pf

impact in Louisville with his outstanding steaks, glittery bar, urban vibe and top-notch service. The rooms have Churchill Downs themes. The steaks take the rail with seafood and sushi coming up fast on the outside. $$$$ D hpe

CAST IRON STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-2298, 6325 River Rd., 3847466. Buck’s owner Curtis Rader also operates these two places, where the kitchens cook steaks and sides in cast iron pans at moderate prices.The ambience of all his places is upscale with “no peanuts on the floor, antlers on the wall or country music,” Rader promises. $$$ D hpf

LE MOO 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. Kevin Grangier of Village Anchor & Pub in Anchorage has re-imagined the space that was for decades KT’s, creating a new interior design he calls “Paris brothel meets vintage warehouse,” a lively and amusing space with lots of steel, neon and velvet, a large bar, and an outdoor patio. Chip Lawrence, sous chef at Village Anchor, will be executive chef, devising a Euro-eclectic menu with an emphasis on steaks. $$ B Br L D hpfe

CATTLEMAN’S ROADHOUSE 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-7623, 139 Historical Trail, 543-3574. These local outlets of the small regional chain offer mid-priced beef choices and starters such as fried

J J FISH & CHICKEN 1701 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2523. This Jeffersonville restaurant offers up fried perch and catfish, shrimp and oysters, chicken dinners, Philly cheese steaks and gyros. Italian beef sandwiches too, and the usual sides, nicely done. $ L D h

LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 671-5350, 9700 Von Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-5800, 4813 Outer Loop, 969-9790. Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ L D hp

JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting on the edge of Riverfront Park is bright, noisy and fun, with a wraparound deck providing a panoramic river view. $$ L D hpf

MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. This belowground temple to the red meat gods is elegant and masculine, full of wood paneling, brass rails and leather booths. Louisville reveres its home-grown restaurants but has welcomed this Chicago-based chain with open mouths. $$$$ D hp

KINGFISH RESTAURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a family dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. Two of its properties — upper River Road and Riverside Drive — boast river views. $$ L D hpfe 

OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 8954329, 6520 Signature Dr., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 231-2399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville IN, 283-4329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ D hp

MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925 and remains immensely popular. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. Out of season — Nov. to Jan. — the family shutters the place and takes a nice vacation. $ L D f

PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Brownsboro Rd., 8969234. A local favorite for more than fifty years and as traditional as a steakhouse gets. Pat Francis, like his father before him, cuts the meats himself. Its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. $$$$ D pf

MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-1818. The decor of this upscale eatery evokes the feeling of a large fish market, with an open kitchen that offers views of chefs at work. Quality seafood and service have made Mitchell’s a popular destination. $$$ L D hpf PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 267-4633. If you are looking for an honest fish sandwich and a cold beer or two, with no frills, this southside tavern is just the ticket. Belly up, place your order, and be sure to have cash — no credit cards accepted here. $$ L D fe RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original Louisville home of the bucketof-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ L D hpf SHARK’S FISH & CHICKEN 2001 S. Seventh St., 6372999. Several types of crunchy-breaded fried fish — white fish, shrimp, catfish, salmon — to choose from, as well as wings and side dishes like fried mushrooms and fried okra. Finish with appealing desserts such as chocolate cake, pineapple upside down cake or banana pudding. $ L D h

BRAZEIROS CHURRASCARIA 450 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live) 2908220. This Knoxvillebased company’s first satellite location has been a downtown hit. A churrascaria works like this: You 56 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8933884, 5229 Dixie Hwy., 448-0577, 970 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9789, 1540 Alliant Ave., 266-6009. With more than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ L D hp

PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Preston Hwy., 964-6117. Family-style dining with the ranch theme kept alive with the open flame from the grills. An extensive buffet with hot and cold foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ L D pickle chips and jalapeño poppers, grilled chicken, salmon, and plenty of sandwiches. $$$ L D hp DEL FRISCO’S 4107 Oechsli Ave., 897-7077. Loyal Louisville beefeaters continue to fill up this 34year-old St. Matthews steakhouse, with its brick walls and beamed ceilings. Any red meat enthusiast would know to order the filet or Porterhouse, but only regulars know the glories of something called green phunque. $$$$ D hp  EDDIE MERLOT’S PRIME AGED BEEF 455 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 584-3266. The sumptuous renovation of the space at the corner of Fourth and Muhammad Ali has resulted in one of the largest dining spaces in town. The Ft. Wayne-based small chain with big ambitions boasts glittering mosaic artwork, a handsome bar and luxurious seating in secluded nooks and corners. The menu focuses on high end steaks, well-prepared seafood and seasonal specials. $$$$ L D hpe JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 5840102. This Cincinnati restaurateur has made an

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, Cohiba the best cigar and Ruth’s Chris the best restaurant. It serves an excellent steak in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ D hpe RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088. This North Carolina-based chain offers family dining with good variety: Its diverse and extensive buffet features more than 150 items. $$ L D STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ D hp TEXAS ROADHOUSE 757 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy. (Green Tree Mall), Clarksville IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy., 448-0705, 6460 Dutchmans Pkwy., 897-5005, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600, 13321

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

Shelbyville Rd., 253-0085. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ L D hp

A NICE RESTAURANT 3129 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 280-9160, 404 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-7770, 2784 Meijer Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 280-9160. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice enough to have branched out to four locations. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $ B L

IN 284-2919, 10206 Westport Rd., 339-0808. The deck of the riverfront location in Jeffersonville, with its view across the river, is a great place for a lazy summer meal, when the familiarity of all-American fare like meat loaf, pot pies, steak or ribs and a couple of cold ones is all you want. The big square bars in all three locations, with multiple TV screens, make for excellent sports viewing as well. $$ L D hpf BUNZ RESTAURANT 969 1/2 Baxter Ave., 632-1132. This little Highlands made-to-order gourmet hamburger shop concocts quality burgers with a range of standard and oddball toppings. $ L D h f  CAFÉ MAGNOLIA 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 589-5200. The Galt House’s quick and casual secondfloor dining alternative, this spacious venue offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ L D hp

APPLEBEE’S (6 locations) This cheery national chain features an eclectic assortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pasta as well as full bar service. It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ L D hp

CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’s most attractive eateries for atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistro-style fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ Br L D pfe 

ASPEN CREEK RESTAURANT 8000 Bardstown Rd., 239-2200, 302 Bullitt Ln., 425-0077. A lodge-style restaurant that invokes the rustic feel of the Rockies, and offers a menu of pastas, burgers, and poultry at prices that aren’t mountain high. A second location is opening this spring near the Oxmoor Mall at the former Fox & Hound. $$ L D hp

CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots more Cardinal memorabilia. What? You want food too? Sure! Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $ L D hp

BARRY’S CHEESESTEAKS & MORE 7502 Preston Hwy., 883-2874. Once you’ve had ‘em in Philly, you want them everywhere you go, apparently. Barry’s version has been getting raves from self-anointed cheesesteak mavens, who approve of his meat, bread and the cheese sauce choices. The “more” includes burgers, wings and fries. $ L D BELLA’S DINER 4106 Taylor Blvd., 749-1771. $ L D

CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr. (Holiday Inn), Clarksville IN, 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ B Br L D pe CHARLIE NOBEL’S EATERY + DRAUGHT HOUSE 7815 Old Ind. 311, Sellersburg IN, 748-5212.

Owner Matt McMahan, who also runs Big Four Burgers + Beer described his new restaurant as a “Margaritaville meets Cheeseburger in Paradise concept.” Traditional American bar fare, seafood dishes and 30 beers on tap served in an atmosphere that lays on the fun. $$ L D hp CHEDDAR’S CASUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 3521 Outer Loop, 966-3345, 1385 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain draws big, hungry crowds with its large bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ L D hpf CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888, 11600 Antonia Way, 3018181, 9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ L D hp  CHOP SHOP SALADS 436 W. Market St., 589-2467, 126 Breckinridge Ln., 384-4252. The two-handed mezzalunas rock steady as the line cooks chop up lettuce, vegetables and meats into hearty salads or wraps. Mostly a to-go place with limited seating, the steady lunchtime crowds attest that office workers see a need for fresh light lunch fare. $ L D CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2001, 1555 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 913-0810. When the trademark item is called a “ButterBurger” and frozen custard tops the dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare. Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain popular. $ L D f CUNNINGHAM’S 6301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625. One of the longest-lived restaurant business in the city, Cunningham’s has had several incarnations, and now pulls in old timers and new fans at its Harrod’s Creek location. There you can find fine fish sandwiches and pub grub, and absorb some of the nostalgia associated with this long-time favorite. $ Br L D hpf

BIG FOUR BURGERS + BEER 134 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 913-4967, 114 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 944-9777. The name reflects its original location in the shadows of the Big Four pedestrian bridge, but a second store is in New Albany, too. Diners can choose from a selection of gourmet burgers and 21 beer taps. $$ L D hpfe B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd.(Oxmoor Mall), 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a large and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Mall. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ L D hp  BLUE HORSE CAFÉ 830 Phillips Ln. (Crown Plaza Hotel), 367-2251. $$$ L D hp BLUEGRASS BURGERS 3334 Frankfort Ave., 6146567. Four women restaurateurs have partnered to offer a gourmet burger concept. Choose your burger — grass-fed Kentucky beef or bison, tuna or veggie (or grilled chicken, cheese steak or franks) — and then head for the topping bar. $ L D f BRICKHOUSE TAVERN & TAP 871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-3182. Brickhouse, a Houston-based chain, has upgraded its image with an increased focus on food. Serving brunch, lunch and dinner, with a half-dozen local beers on tap, and an unusual menu of beer cocktails. $$ L D hpf BROOKE & BILLY’S BITES, BOURBONS & BREWS 751 Vine St., 583-9165. The restored and remodeled 137-year-old building, which used to be The Coach House, has a secluded patio and revamped dining room in a cool. out-of-the-way neighborhood— and, it now has a new identity. The menu refocuses on house specials like fried chicken, a breakfast Hot Brown, and an extensive selection of sandwiches and small bites. $$$ L D pf BUCKHEAD MOUNTAIN GRILL 3020 Bardstown Rd., 456-6680, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music  = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 57

48-81_Guide_fall15_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/1/15 3:39 PM Page 58

DARKSTAR ON THE CREEK 6313 River Rd., 2281991. Some of the old Crescent Hill crowd followed out to River Rd., and new city regulars commuting home can mingle with Prospect residents, river rats and parched kayakers docking out back on Harrod’s Creek. Look for an expanded bar food menu, brown bag lunches to go and latenight food service. $ L D hpfe FAMOUS MIKE’S STEAK & LEMONADE 3052 Wilson Ave., 618-0102. At first a curious culinary combination — steak and lemonade — but this little nearWest End place is a gem offering an eclectic range of quick comfort foods: chicken gizzard baskets, pizza rolls, cheese steaks, burgers and subs. $ L D h FIRST WATCH 201 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-6075. This Florida-based chain offers both traditional breakfast fare (fried eggs, sausage), proprietary specials, like French toast Monte Cristo (made with ham, turkey and Swiss cheese), crepes with plenty of fillings and healthful dishes like egg white omelets and cranberry nut oatmeal. Soups, salads and a big choice of sandwiches for lunch. $ B L FIVE GUYS BURGERS & FRIES 2221 State Street, New Albany IN, 944-9958, 4116 Summit Plaza Dr., 426-1702, 4226 Shelbyville Rd., 891-8848,4917 Outerloop. Based in Virginia, this burger chain invokes the early days of fast food with freshlygrilled burgers, big, smoky Kosher dogs, enough condiments to satisfy any craving, fresh-cut fries that are out of this world and a cheery rock’n’roll sensibility. $ L D GAME 2295 Lexington Rd., 618-1772. Are you dying for a nice burger made from ground antelope? Or maybe wild boar? How about a juicy lamb burger? The guys behind Hammerhead’s have those covered, and more. Build your own with bun choices ranging from brioche to pretzel to Kaiser roll. Toppings include smoked truffle mayo, cranberry-jalapeño jam, and pesto — you get the idea. $$ D f GARAGE BAR 700 E. Market St., 749-7100. Housed in a former service station in NuLu, Garage Bar serves up draft and bottled craft beers, Bourbons, seasonal cocktails and wine, pizzas from a woodfired brick oven and Southern specialties, with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. The ham flight is not to be missed. $$$ D hpf GATSBY’S ON FOURTH 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3200. The casual dining space on the first floor of the Seelbach has been renovated and renamed to reflect its connection of the hotel to F. Scott Fitzgerald, and re-conceived to be a full restaurant, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. Dinner and lunch menus serve soups, salads, sandwiches and a few entrées, such as sautéed trout with pickled fennel, pesto-crusted chicken, and skirt steak with celery root puree. $$ B L D hp GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Creek Diner offers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the down-home eats. $ B Br L D  GRADY’S BURGERS AND WINGS 414 W. Oak St., 637-7002. The name says most of what you need to know. Ten flavors of wings, breaded, fried and sauced. The hot wings and the honey BBQ are the biggest sellers. Deli sandwiches and gyros too. $ L D f GREEN LEAF NATURAL VEGETARIAN BISTRO 309 W. Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. Green Leaf serves up vegetarian fare in the new town center of University of Louisville. The menu has a pan-Asian focus, with noodles and fried rice and stir fries, as well as smoothies and bubble tea. $ L D GRIND BURGER KITCHEN 3311 Preston Hwy., 8517333. Owners Liz and Jesse Huot have settled into their funky brick-and-mortar restaurant, giving up running the truck that started it all. In addition to their signature burgers, the Huots have sausages,

58 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

salads and some great sides such as kim chi-braised fingerlings. $$ L f HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 365-3388, 12949 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8403, 303 W. Cardinal Blvd., 708-1818. Burgers, dogs and fries and drinks with a baseball theme highlight this suburban spot, and more than 20 toppings offer you a fielder’s choice of options to dress your burger. $ L D f  HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100, 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194, 7701 Preston Hwy., 968-1606, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 218-9485, 941 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-9464. Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-standing reputation as a party scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and, of course, wings. $ L D hpfe INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF PANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 285-1772, 1401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-2250. IHOP fans can choose to go out to the East End or across the river to satisfy their jones for the national chain’s inimitable food. $ B L D h JOE & KATHY’S PLACE 5408 Valley Station Rd., 9355323. This family-run, home-cooking-from-scratch place has developed a loyal following among the Valley Station locals. The menu supplies expected standards like fried chicken, biscuits and gravy, but contemporary offerings like vegetable panini and pork tenderloin sandwich with pesto mayo are available, too. $ B L D JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 426-2074. Going strong after many years in this Lyndon location, Joe’s has gradually grown from a little house to a sprawling complex of indoor and outdoor tables with live music many evenings. Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ L D hpfe KAREM’S 9424 Norton Commons Blvd., 327-5646. Karem’s Grill & Pub, one of the first restaurants to open in the village-like Norton Commons, carries the look and feel of a neighborhood watering hole inside and out. The test of a restaurant, though, is the food, and Karem’s is excellent. $$ L D h KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9726. This family-owned tavern, a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978, offers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and soups. The hamburgers, though, might be the best unpretentious burgers in town: freshly ground daily, always cooked perfectly, and served on a toasted bun. $ L D pf MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 561-0024. $ B L MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-6588. This California chain, a subsidiary of Bob Evans, goes urban and upscale where Farmer Bob is folksy and country. This East End outlet has developed a following beyond those familiar with it from other locations. $$ B Br L D hpf MOCA DINER 2610 Chamberlain Ln., 618-0977. MOCA Diner (run by husband Moe and wife Cathy) serves house made dishes — meat loaf, roast chicken, spaghetti and meatballs — all made from scratch. Breakfast is served all day, along with lunch and dinner. There is a full bar with wine list, patio seating, and daily specials. $$ B L Dpf THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433. The music program here is eclectic and nonjudgmental, and you could say the same for the food service, which is now called The Monkey’s Uncle Grill, run by Matt Davis (Lil Cheezers) and Bret Donaldson (Stellar Craft Catering). The initial focus is on interesting grilled cheese and other pub fare. $ L D hpfe NEIL & PATTY’S FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersburg IN, 246-5456. A family owned and

operated outpost up the road a piece, long known for their warm and welcoming, down-home atmosphere, has expanded their craft beer selection. The local cognoscenti know they can also find excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily. Coffee and desserts are always made fresh. Breakfast served until 2 p.m. $$ Br L D p NEW ALBANY ROADHOUSE 1702 Graybrook Rd., New Albany IN, 981-7777. $$ L D hp NOODLES & COMPANY 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 632-0102, 4300 Summit Plaza Dr., 804-4724. The first two of the Broomfield, Colo.-based fast-casual chain’s proposed nine Louisville-area locations are open now.. Choose your noodles — Asian style (pad Thai, Bangkok curry, etc.), pastas (Tuscan Fresca, Penne Rossa and more) — or select from a lineup of savory sandwiches and salads including the BBQ Pork and Chinese Chicken Chop Salad. $ L D f O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations) O’Charley’s, Inc. could serve well as the picture in the dictionary next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 properties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-andseafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ Br L D hp PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. This casual-dining facility in the Hyatt Regency offers a full dinner menu for hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$ D

RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 412-9000. This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfredo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ L D hpf RAISING CANE’S 10490 Westport Rd., 425-4040, 6811 Bardstown Rd., 654-7737. A national chain with a single core product — chicken fingers. Two locations in town now, both offering simple and straightforward fried chicken finger combos and sandwiches with slaw and fries on the side. $ L D f RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001. This Seattle-based chain serves up its well regarded “gourmet burgers” and trimmings in two East End locations. Despite a full bar, it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$ L D hpf ROOSTERS 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 Dixie Hwy., 384-0330, 1601 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 590-3391, 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 883-1990. With a wide footprint in Ohio, this Columbus-based wingsand-brews chain is now spreading its franchise wings across Indiana, West Virginia and Kentucky. Its four local properties have gained popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings.$ L D hpf RUBY TUESDAY 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy., 267-7100, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-5010. If success demonstrates quality, then Ruby Tuesday’s 600 international properties and 30,000 employees can stand up with pride. They’ve been upholding the slogan “Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ L D hp THE RUDYARD KIPLING 422 W. Oak St., 636-1311. The word “eclectic” fits this Old Louisville eatery in just about every dimension, from its funky decor to its diverse bill of fare, not to mention an array of entertainment that bridges the generations from Generation X’ers to aging hippies. The owners are scaling back, though, and opening only on Fridays and Saturdays. $ D hp SAM’S AT THE MONTROSE 318 W. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 945-3496. Sam Anderson has run the Montrose Planation building as an events space for a while, and now has turned it also into a restaurant, serving his well-known and much

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

loved menu of American cuisine staples such as steaks, sandwiches, burgers, seafood and chicken, pizzas and Italian dishes.$$ L D pf

dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ L D hpf

SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 702 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-2323. Fans of Sam Anderson’s steaks, chicken, pizza and pasta know it is well worth the trip up into the Knobs above New Albany to enjoy the conviviality of his restaurant, and his always satisfying take on classic American steak, sandwiches and seafood. $$ L D p

THAT PLACE ON GOSS 946 Goss Ave., 409-5409. Located inside the Antique Mall in the old textile mill, That Place serves hearty and cleverly tweaked lunch fare and Sunday brunch. They are especially fond of their Meaty Jack, a meatloaf sandwich, grilled and topped with Jack cheese and their special sauce. Art on the walls is from friends at Mellwood Art Center, where owners Amy and William Enix initially started. $ Br L

SAM’S HOT DOG STAND 1991 Brownsboro Rd., 259-7287. Devoted fans speak highly of this little shop in lower Clifton. Substantial hotdogs and rave-worthy pulled pork BBQ at reasonable prices are drawing in happy customers. $ L D SHONEY’S 6511 Signature Dr., 969-8904, 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 423-6388. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ B L D SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bardstown Rd., 473-1234, 9980 Linn Station Rd., 429-5773, 4024 Dutchmans Ln., 721-0093, 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-4020. Louisville’s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili restaurant, these casual eateries offer the regional favorite (really it’s Greek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ L D h SMASHBURGER 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 326-4141, 312 S. Fourth St., 583-1500. A growing chain located mostly in the West and the South now has two Kentucky locations serving made-to-order Angus beef burgers, and is looking to open up to four more locations. $ L D f THE SPREAD BUFFET Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. Paula Deen’s name has been excised from the entrance, but the concept remains the same: a sumptuous spread of all the things you like and more offered in an all-you-caneat format. $$$ L D

TOAST ON MARKET 620 E. Market St., 569-4099, 141 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 941-8582. On both sides of the river this breakfast and lunch favorite has gained a loyal following and tremendous word-of-mouth. Be prepared to wait for tables for weekend brunches. $ B Br L pf TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany IN, 944-9999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of everything with a down-to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ L D hp TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisurely Sunday morning or heading home very late on a Saturday night. It’s a place to grab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ B L D h THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Another wings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U of L fans, Wing Zone excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Mild to Nuclear. $ L D hf ZAXBY’S 2740 Allison Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 920-0080, 807 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 742-8600, 5025 Mud Ln., 632-1400, 2870 Technology Ave., New Albany IN, 725-7484, 10715 Dixie Hwy., 271-6990. They have

been all around us out in the state, but now Louisville and Southern Indiana have their own Zaxby’s, the casual dining chain that cutens its menu with a lot of “z’s”: zappetizers, zalads, platterz, wings and fingerz — that sort of thing. $ L D h

BARBARA LEE’S KITCHEN 2410 Brownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a late-night refuge for years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub, honestly priced, in a rootsy atmosphere. $ B L D h BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KITCHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 772-9580. Big Momma’s may be the most hospitable place in the West End to get genuine soul food. A different main course is featured daily, all homecooked food, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ L D CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can whiff a scent of Louisville history coming off the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon. The bar food here is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The open-faced roast beef sandwich, with mashed potatoes and brussels sprouts, is a F&D favorite. $ L D pf THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg IN, 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ L D CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ L D h

STEAK N SHAKE 3232 Bardstown Rd., 456-2670, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 2717 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3397, 10721 Fischer Park Dr., 326-3625, 980 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak N Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ B L D h STOUT BURGERS & BEER 1604 Bardstown Rd., 459-8234. Renovations of the former site of La Bodega Tapas Bar took a while, but finally the California burger and brew concept is serving large crowds in the Highlands. A custom beef blend of chuck and brisket is ground and grilled in house two ways: pink and not pink, and the limited menu of chef-created sandwiches is clever and tasty. Craft beers from local, national and international breweries are poured from 30 taps and a selection of bottles, and each is paired by suggestions written on the food menu. $ L D SUPERCHEFS 106 Fairfax Ave., 333-0620. “Superchef” Darnell Ferguson has operated out of pop-up restaurants in various venues, but now he’s got a set location in the former Saigon Café in St. Matthews. The superheroes theme is evident in comic books adorning the walls and by menu item names such as The Hulk (a green waffle sandwich with sausage, candied bacon, egg and cheese), Aquaman (a smoked salmon quesadilla with hot crab spread, mozzarella, spinach, shrimp and mango chutney) and Bruce Wayne (chicken fried rice with thin-sliced vegetables). $$ B Br L D p TGI FRIDAY’S 416 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 585-3577. The original place to loosen the tie and congregate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmosphere tradition with American bistro

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music  = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 59

COOK N’ COMPANY 947 Central Ave., 635-1000. A home-cooking restaurant right across from Churchill Downs. You will find cheeseburgers, fried catfish sandwiches and rotating daily specials of ribs, salmon cakes and fried pork chops. House-made desserts round out lunch or dinner. $ L D f COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 2449497. This nostalgic old house in the countryside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Brown. $ L COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-4325. Longtime neighborhood fixture Cottage Inn has a bright new look, and continues happily doling out the kind of excellent down-home food it has served for more than 70 years. $ L D D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 588-2003. Dirt-cheap blue-plate specials and hearty breakfasts bring droves to this classic greasy spoon. Saturday morning hours are sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, green beans, and mashed potatoes, D’Nalley’s is a hard place to beat. $ B L D

and lean meats created to “make you feel light and energized when you return to work.” Home meal plans available too. Dine in too, if you can grab a table in the little space. $ HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044. This chain serves up nostalgic dishes, casseroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an allAmerican supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ B L D

MISS ADA’S 510 E. Chestnut St., 561-3762. $ L

INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-5154, 2901 Fern Valley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2535, 2970 Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-3980, 4590 Dixie Hwy., 447-4856, 4419 Cane Run Rd., 448-1109, 4901 Poplar Level Rd., 969-5352. Grown from a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of affordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ L D h

SHIRLEY MAE’S CAFÉ 802 Clay St., 589-5295. This Smoketown institution draws hungry locals as well as celebrities in town hungry for the soul food of their youth. BBQ ribs, and hot-water cornbread cooked in a cast iron skillets. Pig’s feet and chicken wings and collards, all seasoned with Shirley Mae Beard’s spice rack — salt and pepper. $ L D

DAISY MAE’S 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany IN, 9448101. Daisy Mae’s offers southern food and hospitality. The menu includes fried chicken and cod, meatloaf, mashed potatoes, collards and pinto bean soup every day. Look for daily specials that include a regularly rotating fruit cobbler and red velvet cake. $ L D f

WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800. A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes, cherry Cokes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year round. Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll call you “hon.” $ B L

FOOD 4 UR SOUL 612 S. Fifth St., 614-6363. This corner space at Fifth and Chestnut offers up soulful favorites: fried catfish, rib tips, pork chops (grilled, fried, or smothered), sweet potato casserole, fried mac and cheese, and fried bologna sandwiches. $$ L D

WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. An old-line neighborhood corner grocery store houses a delicious secret: At the back you’ll find a steam table loaded with exceptional comfort food. Fried chicken is excellent, and don’t miss the chili. $ B L

FORTY ACRES AND A MULE RESTAURANT 1800 Dixie Hwy., 776-5600. $ L D FRANCO’S RESTAURANT & CATERING 3300 Dixie Hwy., 448-8044. Long-time fans of Jay’s Cafeteria (including politicians and national entertainers) are no longer bereft. Jay’s former owners serve up Southern Soul food in Shively at family-friendly prices. Look for smothered pork chops, collard greens, fried chicken, fried catfish and fruit cobbler. $LD

GOOD OLE’ JESSIE’S DIXIE DINER 9609 Dixie Hwy., 937-6332. The core of this resurrected Dixie Highway institution is a ’20s-era Sears, Roebuck & Co. pre-fab building. The owners have revived the down-homey neighborhood feel that people remember from when Miss Jessie presided in the 1970s, but the food and accouterments are up to date, a blend of “country” and “cool.” $$ L D HEALTHY EATING 332 W. Broadway, 709-4411. This downtown storefront offers delivery and takeout of healthful meals focused on fresh fruits, vegetables

60 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

SWEET PEACHES 1800 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 356-0232. Breakfast, sandwiches and soups are what you will find at this West End spot. And don’t overlook fresh baked goodies like brownies and cookies or the chance to wash them down with peach-flavored sweet tea. This also is the location of the monthly Sweet Peaches Poetry Slam. $ B L D

THE KITCHEN 5300 Cane Run Rd., 384-6525. When you want home-style cooking, you will want it like it is served here. Breakfast all day, lunch and dinner too. The regulars like the meatloaf and the chicken fried steak. $ B L D

DAVE & PEG’S COPPER KETTLE 276 Main Cross St., Charlestown IN, 256-4257. $ B L D

GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 5362 Dixie Hwy., 4476660, 1402 Cedar St., Clarksville IN. 258-2540. Buffet style family dining — one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $ B L D

O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites, available from breakfast to dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $ B L D hp

SWEETIE PIE SOUL FOODS 4900 Poplar Level Rd., 409-4120. It’s like sitting in your home kitchen (watching the big screen TV) while someone else cooks. The name should clue you in to the menu: fried chicken, fried catfish, cornbread, mac and cheese, long-cooked green beans and mashed potatoes served at very reasonable prices. $ L D

DASHA BARBOURS SOUTHERN BISTRO 3825 Bardstown Rd., 882-2081. This Buechel place certainly gives the “bistro” concept a down-home Southern twist. Fried chicken and fish, a vegetable plate with three sides choices, burgers, pork chop sandwich, and chicken wings. Sides include sweet potato casserole studded with pecans, fried corn on the cob and collard greens. $$ L D

FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 883-1462. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in down-home comfort fare. The word on the street, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ L D

non-gristly, and combos ranging from chicken fingers to fish to meatloaf, pork chops and fried-toorder chicken. (Fair warning, this dish takes 20 minutes to cook, but it’s worth the wait.) $ B L D

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2667. This is cafeteria-style dining done very well. They serve up the standard steam table meatand-three menu items as good as any. With the Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $ L D JOELLA’S HOT CHICKEN 3400 Frankfort Ave., 8972445. The newest venture from Tony Palombino is a Nashville-style chicken emporium, a homage to his parents’ restaurant, named for Joe and Ms. Ella, who did the cooking back when he was a kid. Joella’s will serve traditional Southern-fried chicken spiced medium, hot and hotter. House-made sides, of course, and local craft beers and wine, and freshsqueezed lemonade, too. $$ L D hpf KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $LDh KRISPY KRUNCHY CHICKEN 4544 Poplar Level Rd., 964-6336. Crispy fried chicken and fried catfish, as well as daily Asian specialties. $ L MARRIC’S RESTAURANT 8402 Hudson Ln., 3847417. Tough critics of places that bill themselves as “home cooking” establishments give Marric’s high praise for really fitting the bill. Real mashed potatoes, chicken-fried steak that’s peppery and

THE BISTRO 3701 Frankfort Ave., 714-5586. A gem hidden away in The Olmsted, on the Masonic Home grounds in St. Matthews. This spot has earned terrific word-of-mouth buzz. Soups, sandwiches, salads, pastas are the mainstay of the menu, with a four-item lunch buffet that changes weekly. $ B Br L D f CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-4230. This thrifty deli offers a variety of build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-andsalad bar, and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic creation. $ L DOWNHOME CAFETERIA 2605 Rockford Ln., 882-2510. Just what the name implies — homey comfort food dished up from a hot table. Salad, coleslaw, deviled eggs, beans (green, baked and pinto), corn and creamy mashed potatoes. Baby back ribs and daily specials like smothered pork chops, liver and onions and salmon croquettes on Friday. $$ L D HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 Story Ave., 583-0437. Doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955,

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

thin-crust pizzas and hoagies keep coming back and talk it up with their friends. $$ L D h

they attract customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and from offices downtown. $ B L D

THE BARD’S TOWN 1801 Bardstown Rd., 749-5275. On the ground floor a 60-seat restaurant and 30-seat lounge. On the second floor is the 70-seat Bard’s Town Theatre home to a resident troupe dedicated to producing new works from Kentucky playwrights and beyond, to other theatre, poetry and musical acts from around the country. Food and beverage service, but it’s not a dinner theater. $$ D hpfe DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater sweepstakes. The expansive seasonal buffet offerings have fans returning show after show. $$$$ L D pe HOWL AT THE MOON 434 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 562-9400. What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub featuring a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept? You’ll find this 4,000-square-foot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ D hpfe JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20-minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the produce is grown on the premises in season. $$$ L D pf MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reservations are strongly recommended. $$$$ L D p

ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $$ L D ANGIO’S RESTAURANT 3731 Old Bardstown Rd., 4515454. This small Buechel eatery attracts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $$ L D ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4771 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-to-order pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $$ L D h ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-9805. A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $$ L D h ARNO’S PIZZA 3912 Bardstown Rd., 384-8131.$$ L D BEARNO’S PIZZA (12 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 12 locations. $$ L D h BLAZE FAST-FIRE’D PIZZA 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 895-7800, 13317 Shelbyville Rd., 822-3677. At this California-based pizza franchise you customize your own pie from a lineup of meat and vegetable toppings, cheeses and several sauces. The pie bakes in just 2 minutes in a flaming hearth oven. There are ready-to-order signature pies also for those who can’t make up their minds. $$ L D p hf BONNIE & CLYDE’S PIZZA 7611 Dixie Hwy., 9355540. It may look like a dive that hasn’t been renovated in ages, the service can be surly at times, and you have to pay in cash, but devoted fans of its

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music  = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & TAP HOUSE 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 1315 Herr Ln., 394-0000, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 913-4171, 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-4111, 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717, 13401 Shelbyville Rd., 254-1111, 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 896-9090. The Boombozz Pizza empire has expanded in concept and in locations, from Southern Indiana out to the edge of Middletown. The menu now extends into appetizers, sandwiches and pasta, and 21 craft beers on tap.$$ L D hpf BORROMEO’S PIZZA 9417 Smyrna Pkwy., 9687743. Serving up old-school thin-crust pizzas to chowhounds south of the Gene Snyder. $$ L D h CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ L D pf  CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMPANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jeffersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Brewing Company. That’s a fine pedigree, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ L D CLIFTON’S PIZZA 2230 Frankfort Ave., 893-3730. One of the originators of “Louisville style” of pizza, with additional toppings placed over the cheese. The venerable Clifton’s Pizza appeals with its adult style, full of the bold flavors of herbs and spices and available with grown-up toppings like anchovies and artichoke hearts. $$ L D hpe COALS ARTISAN PIZZA 3730 Frankfort Ave., 7428200, 11615 Shelbyville Rd. Middletown now can

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 61

48-81_Guide_fall15_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/1/15 3:40 PM Page 62

enjoy what St. Matthews has been eating for a few years–excellent pizzas made in coal-fired ovens at 1000 degrees F, charring and crisping the crust in four minutes. The dough rises for three days, making for a lighter, more developed crust. Topping are fresh, regionally-sourced, with specialty concepts. Look for local craft beers and house-made soups and salads in addition to pizzas. $$ L D hpf DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1567 S. Shelby St., 635-7994. $$ L D h DIORIO’S PIZZA & PUB 310 Wallace Ave., 618-3424, 917 Baxter Ave., 614-8424. With a second location now, Highlands’ as well as St. Matthews’ residents can savor pizza by the slice, as well as by the mammoth 30-inch pie. Also grilled sandwiches, salads, wings, and queso sticks, and a good selection of domestic and import beers. $$ L D hpf 

MARCO’S PIZZA 2011 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-1144. A rapidly growing (300+) pizza chain from Toledo, Ohio, adds to the choices of takeout pies in New Albany. Ironically, its CEO lives in Louisville and commutes to Toledo. $$ L D h MELLOW MUSHROOM 3920 Shelbyville Rd., 4096874, 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 244-6112, 1023 Bardstown Rd., 749-7690. This small pizza/calzone/ hoagie/salad chain touts its stoner origins, as the chain’s name, and some of its offerings such as magic mushroom soup and Maui Wowie pizza, imply. Though a chain, each outlet (a third is opened in the Highlands) tries to be funky in an individualistic, local way. $$ L D p 

FAT DADDY’S PIZZA 10619 Manslick Rd., 363-7551. $$ L D h

MIMO’S NEW YORK STYLE PIZZERIA 2708 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 945-7711. People move to the Knobs for its bucolic setting, but locals still crave their pizza fix. Mimo’s provides that with daily specials, such as Buffalo pizza, calzones, heroes, wraps or salads. Mangia, mangia! $$ L D p 

FAT JIMMY’S 2712 Frankfort Ave., 891-4555, 12216 Shelbyville Rd., 244-2500. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. The Lyndon spot lures a friendly biker crowd. $$ L D h

MOMMA’S PIZZA 1611 Charlestown-New Albany Pike, Jeffersonville IN, 697-3224. Create your own pizza style here or choose one of the specialty pies, such as the Jesse James, with jalapeños, spicy sausage and pepperoni and marinara fire sauce, the ranch chicken or Momma’s vegetable pizza. $$ D

HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 2454555. Pasta dishes, hoagies, stromboli and cold beer are available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. $$ L D h

MR. GATTI’S 703 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-5005, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920. This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw for more than 30 years. $$ L D

IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ LDh JET’S PIZZA 101 S. Hubbards Ln., 895-4655, 3624 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1700, 235 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 244-4440, 6523 Bardstown Rd., 239-0000. Now with a fourth Louisville outlet, this Detroitbased chain offers sit-down service and carry-out. The menu features eight crust flavors and some gourmet pizza options such as a BLT and chicken parmesan. $$ L D f JOHNNY BRUSCO’S PIZZA 10600 Meeting St., 7498400. This Kansas City chain’s fist foray into the area chose wisely in settling in Norton Commons. There you can find New York style pies, subs, calzones, pasta and salads. $$ L D

NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in Southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story. NABC combines the fine pies of Sportstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’s. Publican Roger Baylor’s remarkable beer list, with more than 100 selections from around the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards. $$ L D h

KENNA’S KORNER 4111 Murphy Ln., 426-8340. $$ L D he

OLD CHICAGO PASTA & PIZZA 9010 Taylorsville Rd., 301-7700, 10601 Fischer Park Dr., 657-5700. This growing chain specializes in both thick Chicago-style and thin traditional pizza, along with amusing appetizers (jalapeño cheese pretzels, Italian nachos), filling salads, sandwiches and burgers. Check out the imposing list of 110 beers from around the world. $$ L D hp

LITTLE CAESARS PIZZA (9 Locations) This Detroitbased pizzeria chain lost market share in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ L D h

OLD SCHOOL NY PIZZA 12907 Factory Ln., 8821776. You want Sicilian-style pizza, just like they make in Brooklyn? You can get it in the Eastern suburbs near I-265. Top it with vegetables supplied by local farmers, or tie into a calzone and finish with gelato. $$ L D

LOUI LOUI’S AUTHENTIC DETROIT STYLE PIZZA 10212 Taylorsville Rd., 266-7599. Detroit style? It’s a fluffy-deep-crusted rectangular pie baked a good while to give the crust crispiness. Detroit native Michael Spurlock used to make road trips to satisfy a sick friend’s cravings, then made a study of it, and now brings it to the old Ferd Grisanti location in J’town. $$ L D hp e

ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bardstown Rd., 454-2711, 4933 Brownsboro Rd., 425-9080, 110 W. Main St., 589-4900. Impellizzeri’s pizzas, massive pies loved for a generation, can now be scarfed down near the arena on Main, in addition to its Highlands and Brownsboro Road locations. $$$$ L D hpf

JOHNNY V’S 10509 Watterson Trail, 267-0900. $$ L D hp

LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-1188. Also known as Chubby Ray’s, this local pizzeria makes good, fresh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $$$ L D hpf LUIGI’S 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. New York Citystyle pizza, a treat that you’ll find on just about every street corner there, has been making inroads in River City, but Luigi’s was one of the first to offer in its authentic form here. $$ L MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-9517. Pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $$ L D h 62 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

PAPA JOHN’S PIZZA (30 locations) “Papa” John Schnatter got into the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3,000-restaurant international chain on the basis of a simple formula: traditional pizza, made from quality ingredients in a straightforward style. $ L D h PAPA MURPHY’S PIZZA (11 Locations) $$ L D PAPALINOS ITALIAN PUB 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 736-2700. Pizza, sure, but now a lot of additional pub-style offerings as well: wings, dips, bruschetta, calzones and subs, and special items like bacon mac and cheese and zeppoles for dessert. The dessert

chef will also make a variety of cakes, pies and brownies to take away to your own party on 24hour notice.$ L D h  PERFETTO PIZZA 9910 Linn Station Rd., 426-4644. Located in the old Slice of NY space off S. Hurstbourne Parkway, Perfetto carries on the New York style tradition: pies by the slice, just like on Flatbush Ave. Hand-tossed crust, all kinds of toppings, plus Italian sausage and meatball sandwiches. $$ L D  PIEOLOGY 2043 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 749-7072. Another pizza chain breaks into what appears to be pretty saturated market and offers “handcrafted, stone oven-fired” pies. All are one size (11-1/2 inches) and one price ($7.95) — unless you just want red sauce and mozzarella for a buck less. $ L D PIZZA DONISI 1396 S. Second St., 213-0488. Old Louisville hipsters have long needed a nearby pizza joint. Now they have it and it’s owned by Danny Fitzgerald, impresario behind Mag Bar. Get it by the slice or in whole artisan pies, along with appetizers, fried ravioli and more. $$ L D h f PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4405, 1066 Kehoe Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 2828286. The pizza is baked in a sturdy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. We heartily recommend the barbecue pizza. $$ L D PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $$ L D hpf PLEASURE RIDGE PIZZA AND SPORTS BAR 5603 Greenwood Rd., 933-7373. $$ L D hpf THE POST 1045 Goss Ave., 635-2020. Judging by the enthusiastic reception of this joint in the renovated VFW post building, Louisvillians have been longing for a classic New York-style pie. Pizza is available by slice or whole pie, mostly classic tomato sauced varieties, but a few oddities, like the chicken dinner pizza with Buffalo-based sauce, chicken, cheddar, onion and ranch drizzle. $$ D

ROCKY’S PIZZA & PANINI 3022 Bardstown Rd., 690-8500. Need a quick lunch, and have a hankering for the classic Italian subs and pizzas that you have enjoyed for decades at Rocky’s? Now you can get them quick and to go at this counter-service only branch in the outer edge of the Highlands. $ L D

hpf

ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 282-3844. Rocky’s is reinventing itself by going back to its roots. Gone is the “Italian Grill” appellation, and back is the Sub Pub theme, along with a growing selection of craft and import beers and a select choice of Italian-American entrées. Go to enjoy a pizza, some baked ziti or chicken parmigiana and some hoppy draft. $ L D hpf ROSIE’S PIZZA 13829 English Villa Dr., 244-2484. This Middletown pizzeria has been wowing customers for a while with its store-made crusts, and wide choice of toppings. Fans seem to go for the Whole Lot of Rosie, and the Hot Knots. $$ L D SAL’S PIZZA & WINGS 812 Lyndon Ln., 365-4700. Pizza, calzones, chicken and salads join the food choices in the Lyndon strip mall that also houses other ethnic restaurants. $$ L D hpf SICILIAN PIZZA & PASTA 629 S. Fourth St., 5898686. Ready for takeout or eat-in, this downtown storefront offers good, standard pizza and other familiar Italian-American dishes. $$ L D h f SIR DANO’S PIZZA PARLOR 496 N. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $$ L D h f SNAPPY TOMATO 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 4126205. $$ L D SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665, 2905 Goose Creek Rd., 632-2832, 4001 Shelbyville Rd., 895-0755, 239 S. Fifth St., 749-0919, 8610

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

Dixie Hwy., 614-5300. This locally-owned pizzeria, widely known for their massive pizza by the slice, has expanded to four locations. All are open until 5 a.m. nightly Wednesday through Saturday, offering Philly-style pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. $LDh TEENA’S PIZZA 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 785-4344. Teena’s, in the building on the corner of Trevilian Way and Poplar Level Rd. has a lunch buffet, with vegetable choices and three heat levels of chicken wings, in addition to pizza, giving this neighborhood pizza joint a bit of distinction. $$ L D

hpf

TONY IMPELLIZZERI’S 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 949-3000. The long-time Louisville pizzamaker moves across the river to fill the cravings of Hoosiers. $$$ D WICK’S PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 225 State St., New Albany IN, 945-9425. Wick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at all five of its eateries. The pies are straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $$ L D hpfe ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$ L D hpf

321 DELI 321 W. Main St., 566-3258. The dining and drinks complex on the corner of Third and Main offers something for everyone. This is the deli component (the others are an ice cream shop and a Bourbon bar), which strives to blend the look and feel of a New York deli with the charm of the South. Lunch on nicely done sandwiches constructed from meats roasted in house, gourmet salads and sides to go. $ L D f

ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, go to a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patronize a carpet shop. And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ L BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945. The open flame at this counter-service diner provides the next best thing to a family cookout. Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit cobblers and oldfashioned hand-dipped milkshakes enhance the nostalgic theme. $ L D  BRIAN’S DELI 531 S. Fourth St., 561-0098. Between Chestnut Street and Muhammad Ali Boulevard, Brian’s services the downtown lunch crowd with soup, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $ L f BRUEGGER’S BAGELS 119 Breckenridge Ln., 6181158. The bagel/deli/sandwich chain has set up shop in the middle of St. Matthews, offering another quick breakfast and lunch option. Choose from bagels and breakfast sandwiches, muffins, panini, salads and soups. $ B L f BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410. For a real slice of Louisville life, this weathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the real thing. Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, there’s a good chance he’s sitting at their counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ B L D h BUTCHER’S BEST 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. This fully staffed meat store in Prospect offers customcut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plus a well-stocked deli and specialty foods, with skilled butcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ L D f CAT BOX DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 561-6259. The name of this cozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might warrant a double-take, but its feline

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music  = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

theme and kitty cartoons earn a smile. Open for breakfast and lunch, it offers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ L DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2863. Just a few tables turn this takeout nook into a sit-in breakfast and lunch spot for a handful of diners at a time. Full breakfasts and light lunches are available, but as the name implies, Danish pastries are the specialty, and they’re fine. $ B L DEVINO’S 104 W. Main St., 569-3939. This stylish deli offers another lunch and dinner option downtown. Sandwiches are made from quality Boar’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the premises, with dining inside and on the patio; package beer and wine is also available. $ L D f DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eatery is an institution. It goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ L D hf EINSTEIN BROTHERS BAGELS 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 217-6046. Nothing beats a bagel and a schmear of cream cheese — unless it’s a bagel, a schmear, and a generous slab of lox. For those who don’t live on bagels, a good selection of soups, salads and sandwiches offer quick sustenance at this branch of the national chain. $ B L f THE FEED BAG 133 Breckenridge Ln., 896-1899. The grilled salmon burger is worth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or a fresh veggie wrap. Soups, desserts top off the lunch-only schedule. $ L FIREHOUSE SUBS 215 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3653473, 4905 Outer Loop, 749-4257, 13301 Shelbyville Rd., 883-4168. This national chain touts that they steam their meat and cheese sandwiches. Specialty subs carry out the Firehouse theme and the kids meals include a little fire helmet. $ L D

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 63

FRASCELLI’S NEW YORK DELI & PIZZERIA 4113 Murphy Ln., 243-9005. This shop offers Italian-style deli sandwiches and pizza, plus home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ L D hf HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 895-6001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 3602 Northgate Crt., New Albany IN, 941-9426. Before holidays, you go in and carry out huge spiral-sliced hams or turkey breasts or beef roasts for your own parties. In the off season, you sit down in the café and order generous, filling sandwiches made from those same meats, served on rolls or croissants, cold or with a hot cheese melt. Soup and salads too. And cookies. $ L D JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 896-0150, 1975 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-4130. Don’t look for a New York kosherstyle deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at its multiple locations for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ L D f JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025, 9156 Taylorsville Rd., 499-9830. East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, prosciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ L D JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP (11 Locations) This national sandwich-shop chain offers a wide selection of over stuffed subs that benefit from fresh quality ingredients. But what sets them apart from the rest is their value — and they deliver. $ L D f LENNY’S SUB SHOP 3942 Taylorsville Rd., 454-7831. Another semi-national chain, covering mostly the South and Midwest, brings a selection of familiar subs, sandwiches and salads to Louisville diners eager for more standardized semi-fast food. $ L D f LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380, 8129 Preston Hwy., 384-7900. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a taste of Chicago

atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet. A second location brings the Windy City fare to Okolona. $ L D f LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. This family-owned pioneer in gourmet cheeses, oils, dips, hummus and, of course, pasta has been in operation for 32 years now. They are mainly an eclectic specialty-food store but fans stand threedeep at the sandwich counter every afternoon. And next door is a comfy café, to eat that deli sandwich, or get coffee and dessert. $ L D f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589-3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Street historic district, this fashionable deli lures the savvy business midday crowd. $ L MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6510 Bardstown Rd., 2399997, 12911 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5133, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-3354, 1200 S. Floyd St. (U of L), 825-2285, 4677 Outer Loop, 969-3328, 980 Breckenridge Ln., 895-1698. Emphasizing quality customer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea. $ L D MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668, 555 S. Second St. (YMCA building), 5872353. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Karem Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in a few crowded tables — it’s known for high-quality, hand-made deli fare both in the Highlands and at the YMCA downtown. $ L MUSCLE MONKEY GRILL 9565 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8807, 9463 Westport Rd., 269-1773, 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-5624. This small but growing local chain, founded by Steve and Jill Mazzoni and their friend Jason

McCune, specializes in health and nutrition supplements and vitamins. $ B L D NANCY’S BAGEL BOX 651 S. Fourth St., 589-4004. An outpost of Nancy’s Bagel Grounds in Clifton, this little outlet, inside Theater Square Marketplace, offers a similar mix of light fare and Nancy’s unique take on the bagel. $ B L NANCY’S BAGEL GROUNDS 2101 Frankfort Ave., 895-8323. A friendly and casual neighborhood gathering spot. Offerings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ B L f OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains on an urban street corner in Old Louisville. It’s one of the nation’s few surviving trolleys of the Louisvillebased chain that spread across the nation in the ’70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy, homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ L PANERA BREAD CO. 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 899-9992, 6221 Dutchmans Ln., 895-9991, 500 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr., 426-2134, 3131 Poplar Level Rd., 635-9164, 1040 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9400, 400 W. Market St., 540-5250, 1801 Rudy Ln., 710-0297, 1534 Bardstown Rd., 459-8160. Warm breads finish-baked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ B L D f PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 426-5070, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’s popular sources for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ L D PENN STATION (17 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ L D POTBELLY SANDWICH SHOP 302 S. Fourth St., 540-1100, 4023 Summit Plaza Dr., 420-9616. This local outpost of the Chicago chain offers substantial sandwiches, salads and even breakfast sandwiches and oatmeal both to the downtown lunch crowd along Fourth St., and out at the Summit in the eastern suburbs. $ L D PRIMO’S DELICATESSEN 153 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 913-4715. It’s just what New Albany needed, a little New York style to give East Coast pizzazz to the downtown dining choices. Serving breakfast and lunch, so look for bagels and a schmear, and meaty sandwiches piled high. Dine-in or carry out six days a week. $ Br L  QUIZNO’S SUBS 3173 S. Second St., 375-1400, 223 S. Fifth St., 589-5520, 11803 Shelbyville Rd., 253-5833, 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-7849, 220 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg, IN, 246-1419. Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ L  RED’S COMFORT FOOD 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 587-7337. Across from Louisville Gardens, “Red” offers gourmet wieners and sausages, chicken barbecue topped with coleslaw and vegetarian side dishes, many made with locally sourced products. Red closes for the winter, though, so his fans have to wait til spring. $ L f SAE CAFÉ 200 S. Seventh St., 585-3400. This spunky downtown breakfast and lunch place serves more healthful — and tasty — choices. Muffins and other breakfast pastries are by Najla’s, a Louisville baker that uses no trans-fats, corn syrup or preservatives. The sandwiches have clever names — Angry Bob, Hail to the Chief, Mexi Mama wrap and the Knuckle sandwich — and there are also salads and daily soup specials. $ B L

64 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 4258447. The original Schlotzsky’s offered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ B L D f SCOTTY’S VILLAGE MARKET 10640 Meeting St., 384-6338. A grocery store and deli joins the retail mix at Norton Commons. In keeping with the Village theme, the store evokes the feel and ambience of the old local grocery, in addition to doing on-site baking, smoking meats, and offering full to-go dinners. $ L D f SEEDS AND GREENS NATURAL MARKET & DELI 207 W. First St., New Albany IN, 944-3800. Browse among the organic vegetables and health foods, and stop by the deli for soups and salads, hot and cold sandwiches, vegan, vegetarian and omnivore preparations. A small but interesting beer and wine selection (including gluten-free beer) and a juice and smoothie bar. $ L D SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. Another attractive East End storefront, Shady Lane Café, has been earning good reviews for simple breakfast and lunch fare served in friendly surroundings. $ Br L f THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ L STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 5843354. This authentic New York-style deli occupies the rear third of the Ditto’s space in the heart of the Highlands. Take out or eat in one of the booths, you’ll get piled-high pastrami, brisket and corned beef and you’ll love lox and a schmear on your bagel — even if you don’t know what a schmear is. $ L

SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075. The hardy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the store buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desserts fill out an appetizing menu. $ L D TC’S SANDWICH SHOPPE 438 W. Market St., 5819200. $ L TOM + CHEE 1704 Bardstown Rd., 409-9494, 319 W. Cardinal Blvd., 749-2299, 111 St. Matthews Ave., 893-3575. This regional soup and sandwich chain now has three locations in town and more in Lexington and Newport. Its hook is serving many variations on grilled cheese sandwiches (including a grilled cheese donut that has gained TV notoriety) and tomato (and other) soups. $ L D f TOONERVILLE DELI 1201 S. First St., 635-6960. Scott Lukemire and Dan Borsch, co-owners of The Old Louisville Tavern Bar & Grill and Burger Boy diner, have taken over the space long maintained by Ermin’s Bakery & Café. The chess bar cookie and tomato and basil soup remain, but the menu strongly emphasizes classic deli sandwiches such as the Reuben, along with house-made, soups and sides including sauerkraut, potato salad and pasta salad. $ B L D W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 8979684, 4112 Outer Loop, 290-5478. For 30 years this locally owned and operated build-your-own burger joint has packed in fans at its original location near Dupont Circle, and now it has expanded with a new outlet in Okolona. Both serve substantial burgers on magisterial home-baked buns and offer more than 40 toppings on the lengthy condiments bar. $ L D h WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way (Jewish Hospital), 585-4202. Offering New York style with Kentucky flair, this busy downtown deli will serve in-house diners or take orders for deliveries. Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ L D

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music  = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

ZOUP! 318 S. Fourth St., 963-0777. Another chain outlet downtown gives all the lawyers and government workers another choice for soups, sandwiches and salads, plenty of low-fat, dairy-free and vegetarian choices that will rotate daily. $ L D

ATYPICAL MAN BBQ 119 St. Matthews Ave., 8933925. Can there be too many BBQ joints in town? Nah. And this one is in a well-traveled part of St. Matthews. Stop in for all the usuals — pulled pork and brisket and smoked chicken, done juicily, with choice of sauces on the side, and solid side dishes like slaw and beans. $ L D  B3Q BBQ 1044 Copperfield Drive, Georgetown IN, 951-3900. Ribs, pulled pork and beef brisket, served up as sandwiches, wraps or platters. Also, smoked baloney and chicken, smoked turkey and sirloin tips, and plenty of side choices. Dine-in, carry-out and catering available. $ L D f BIG BEN’S BBQ 600 Quartermaster Center, Jeffersonville IN, 284-4453. This family run BBQ joint is now at the Quartermaster Center, smoking up a storm and impressing locals who recommend Johnnie’s Smokin Ribs, Joecille’s Backbone (brisket tips), Big Ben’s shredded pork sandwich and Alvin’s Wild-Side shredded chicken sandwich. $$ L D f BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722, 7508 Preston Hwy., 968-5657. Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of well-prepared and affordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentuckystyle mutton barbecue. $ L D f BRANDON’S BBQ & PIZZA 9901 LaGrange Rd., 4266666. Hickory-smoked Tennessee-style barbecue sandwiches and filling, affordable dinners. $ L D

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 65

DICKEY’S BARBECUE PIT 285 North Hubbards Ln., 650-9065, 9930 Linn Station Rd. This Dallas-based chain brings slow-smoked Texas barbecue to the Louisville market. Look for beef brisket, as well as pulled pork, barbecue honey ham, spicy cheddar sausage and Polish sausage, ribs, turkey breast and chicken. The usual sides of slaw, beans and mac and cheese are joined by baked potato casserole and fried okra. $$ L D

OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far from General Electric’s Appliance Park, this Louisville relative of a famous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ L D f

FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel Way, 493-2812, 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ L D hpf

RIVER ROAD BBQ 3017 River Rd., 592-7065. Right next to the Water Tower, this little take-out only place smokes brisket and pork: some days one sells out, on other days the other. Winter hours are 116 or until the meat runs out. Potato salad, slaw and drinks. Buy it by sandwich or by the pound. $ L D

FDKY BBQ 9606 Taylorsville Rd., 785-4273. The logo shows that “FD” stands for Fire Department — after all, those guys know all about smokin’. Eat dinner in or order a couple of pounds of pulled pork, marinated pulled chicken, brisket or smoked sausage, firehouse chili or Res Q stew and all the required side dishes to go. Ribs on Wednesdays and Friday calls for fried fish. $$ L D f FEAST BBQ 116 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 9200454, 909 E. Market St., 749-9900. Owner Ryan Rogers brings a modernist sensibility to the art of barbecue at both his locations. He has formulas for brining times, and uses a high-tech smoker to keep the temps low and the smoke from overwhelming the meats. $ L D hpf FIRE FRESH BBQ 211 S. Fifth St., 540-1171. Fire fighters, it is said, eat heartily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, that Fire Fresh BBQ pays homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. The barbecue and country fixin’s stand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ L D  FRANKFORT AVENUE BEER DEPOT 3204 Frankfort Ave., 895-3223. A neighborhood bar that welcomes all comers with some of the most notable ’cue in town. The burgoo and the baked beans rank as some of the best in the city and the pulled pork by the pound is value worth taking home. And where else can you play miniature golf while waiting for the smoker to finish? $ L D pf HARLEY’S HARDWOODZ BAR-B-Q 1703 CharlestownNew Albany Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 284-4490. Owner Frank Harley said “I found my calling, which is barbecue.” He smokes up barbecue pork, chicken and brisket, marinated in Harley’s own barbecue sauce. A menu specialty: smoked chicken white chili. $ L D JIMBO’S BBQ 801 Kenwood Dr., 375-1888. Bouncing back from a fire a couple of years ago, Jimbo’s has begun smoking again in the South End, across from Iroquois Park. All the usual, but for a quick lunch, try the BBQ-stuffed baked potato. $ L D f JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good Texas-style barbecue from a little wooden shack that looks just like a country BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ L D f MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 2440140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 285-1998, 6501 Bardstown Rd., 442-0808. Mark’s routinely takes local honors for its sauces, sandwiches and its meaty baby-back ribs. And don’t miss the smoked take-home turkeys at Thanksgiving. $$ L D h f MOMMA’S MUSTARD PICKLES & BBQ 102 Bauer Ave., 938-6262, 119 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 2907998. The Okie owner of this St. Matthews spot made his Kansas City barbecue so popular, so quickly, he has opened a second store in the East End. Knot on your bib for smoked ribs (pork and beef), brisket, chicken, pulled pork and all the

66 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

standard sides. Their wings are a contender for best in all the city. $$ D f

PINK BARON BBQ 400 W. Court Ave., 835-7361. $LD

RUBBIE’S SOUTHSIDE GRILL & BAR 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find a bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ L D hpfe RUBBIN’ BUTTS BBQ 8007 Highway 311, Sellersburg IN, 748-7266. Up the road a ways you will find this “traditional” BBQ joint with some house specialties not so traditional: smoked deviled eggs, BBQ pork queso and their signature, the BBQ hoga-chonga, a flour shell stuffed with baked beans, cheese, and pulled pork, then deep fried and smothered in queso and BBQ sauce. $ L D SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6868. Ribs, pork, chicken a la carte and dinners. The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ L D hp SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 3633227. This Fairdale institution since 2004 smokes and serves slow-smoked pulled pork, brisket, ribs and a dozen sides (including Nanny’s potato salad) from an 1896 log house. Specialty is hickory-grilled steaks on Friday and Saturday nights. $ L D fe SHANE’S RIB SHACK 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 429-3907. “Rib” may be its middle name, but you can also fill up on wings, chicken tenders, sandwiches and more at this growing Atlanta-based chain. $$ L D f  SHAWN’S SOUTHERN BBQ 822 State St., New Albany IN, 741-7836. You’ll find Memphis-style ’cue here smoked by owner Shawn Pitts using an old family recipe whose methods and mixtures have kept him competitive in BBQ cook-offs and encouraged him to open his own store. Early fans report that what he is doing is tasty and satisfying. $LD SMOKEHOUSE BBQ 5414 Bardstown Rd., 239-4422. This smokery on Bardstown Road just past Hurstbourne offers baby back and spare ribs, pulled pork, brisket, chicken and burgers, along with home-cooked sides like collard greens, sweet potato fries and onion loaf. Finish off with a coconut cream pie or chocolate cobbler. $$ L D p SMOKETOWN USA 1153 Logan St., 409-9180. The name “Smoketown” points to the restaurant’s location in this legendary midtown neighborhood, while signaling there’s consistently fine and cleverly fused Memphis- and Texas-style barbecue to be found here. Irrepressible owner Eric Gould maintains his neighborhood spot also is about vegetarian food and yard sales, and everything in the store is for sale (artwork on the walls, furniture, even the salt shakers, just make an offer). $$ L D f SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A property of Orlando’s Darden fastfood chain, which also runs Olive Garden and Red Lobster, this noisy Stony Brook-area eatery conveys more of a sports-bar than barbecue concept, but the ribs are fine. $$ L D hp TEXICANS BBQ PIT 6608 Hwy. 146, Crestwood. 2419227. A small, neighborhood place just off I-71 in Crestwood pleases fans with standard barbecue

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

fare — pulled pork, brisket and ribs — as well as smoked sausage, chicken and boneless chops. Cinnamon apples join the usual side selection of green beans, slaw and mac and cheese. $ L D

AGAINST THE GRAIN BREWERY 401 E. Main St., 515-0174. Slugger Field once again has a beer-pub. The owners, veterans of the local brewing revival, have worked out an ambitious rotating beer selection and a smokehouse theme for the kitchen, with an emphasis on seasonal dishes. $$ L D pf APOCALYPSE BREW WORKS 1612 Mellwood Ave., 589-4843. Veteran home brewers Leah Dienes, Paul Grignon and Bill Krauth run the newest brewery in Butchertown. Their taproom, dubbed The Fallout Shelter, serves up to 10 of their concoctions. $ h BANK STREET BREWHOUSE 415 Bank St., New Albany IN, 725-9585. F&D columnist Roger Baylor’s New Albanian brewing empire still brews and serves fine craft beer here, but now Earth Friends Café runs the kitchen, serving breakfast and lunches with a vegan and vegetarian emphasis — and some chicken dishes for those who must. $$ L D pf BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7070, 300 W. Main St., 562-0007. More than just a brewpub. BBC’s management gives equally serious attention to both cooking and brewing, making this a great place to stop in for both dinner and a beer. Its third restaurant site on Main Street boasts an upstairs Bourbon lounge. $$ L D hpfe CUMBERLAND BREWS 1576 Bardstown Rd., 4588727. Giving new meaning to the term “microbrewery,” Cumberland Brews may be one of the smallest eateries in town. It’s usually packed, earning its crowds the old-fashioned way by providing very good food, friendly service, and high-quality handcrafted artisan beers. $ L D hf DONUM DEI BREWERY 3211 Grant Line Rd., 5412950. Home brewer Rick Otey ramps up his passion into a business located just down the road from NABC. His intent is to increase Grant Line Road’s well-earned status as a beer destination. Starting up, his beer production is careful and traditional, the foodservice limited to sandwiches, panini, hummus and a cheese plate. The ambience is quiet, conversational, a place to sip and talk. $ L Dh FLAT 12 BIERWERKS 130 W. Riverside Dr. Jeffersonville IN, 590-3219. Among the cluster of new breweries opened across the river, Flat 12 is perhaps the most beer-centric. The fermenters, barrels and other technical accouterments are right out front, producing five house beers, four seasonal brews and some select beers for special events. You can see it all getting kegged or bottled, too, as you sample. A rotating lineup of food trucks provides whatever additional nourishment the beer drinkers might need. $ Br L D fe GOODWOOD BREWING COMPANY 636 E. Main St., 584-2739. Under separate ownership for a while, this downtown brewing and brewpub outpost of BBC has rebranded its product and refurbished its public spaces. $$ L D GORDON BIERSCH BREWERY RESTAURANT 400 S. Fourth St., 589-8935. The growing national brewery and restaurant chain has become an anchor at the corner location at 4th and Liberty, brewing their characteristic German-style bottomfermented lagers, Hefeweizen, bocks, pilsners and Schwarzbiers. The large menu offers the usual pubgrub, but touted as fresh, seasonal and made on the premises. $$$ Br L D hpf NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 944-2577. (See review under Pizza.)

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music  = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 67

48-81_Guide_fall15_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/1/15 3:42 PM Page 68

OVER THE 9 120 S. Tenth St., 252-6671. The near West End revival is being spearheaded by Old 502 Winery and the Falls City Brewery, which has added this small-plates eat-in taproom to its little empire. Griffin Paulin formerly of Rumplings, Roux and Ten Tables, is developing a clever menu that kicks pub fare up to a higher level with things like Scotch duck eggs, BLT sliders and BBQ lamb nachos. The restaurant’s bar will, of course, feature Old 502 wines and a range of Falls City beers, as well as products from other local breweries and distillers. $$ D hpfe RED YETI BREWING CO. 256 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN. 288-5788. The newest craft brewery in Southern Indiana has an ambitious kitchen too, touting food so fresh in concept, they have no freezer. The brisket sandwich comes with house-made chips, the pork ribs are braised in wheat ale, and desserts include funnel cake with chocolate dipping fondue and a beer float:-vanilla ice cream in your choice of porter or stout. $$ L D hp

BAXTER’S 942 BAR & GRILL 942 Baxter Ave., 4099422. Lively music offerings and excellent barbecue have made this Lower Highlands bar and grill a very satisfying place to dine and to hang out. In addition to expected bar fare like wings and nachos, the menu offers catfish nuggets, Bourbonbraised brisket and vegetarian pasta and burgers, including an unusual grilled sweet potato burger. $ L D hpfe BEEF O’BRADY’S 241 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-2322, 5628 Bardstown Rd., 239-2226, 3101 S. Second St., 637-3737, 11324 Preston Hwy., 966-8515, 105 LaFollette Ct., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1316. If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ L D h f BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 8934487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out front says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ L D hpf BROWNIE’S THE SHED GRILLE & BAR 237 Whittington Pkwy., 326-9830; 1578 Bardstown Rd., 454-9402. Restaurant owner and namesake Keith Brown used to host neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home. Now he brings the same sociable concept to his two pubs and eateries, both are Louisville’s official homes for Cincinnati Bengals fans. $ L D hpfe BUD’S TAVERN GOOD FOOD & BARBECUE 4014 Dixie Hwy., 384-9131. This spiffed up Shively outpost offers honest bar food that’s receiving high praise. Check out the “gently fried” grouper, burgers (including a Reuben burger), burritos and barbecue. $ L D hpfe BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454-3635, 1112 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-9464, 4917 Outerloop, 9645803. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type fare, including the chain’s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ L D hpf BUNGALOW JOE’S BAR & GRILL 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 931-5637. A “family friendly sports bar and grill” in the Fern Creek area boasts 23 HDTVs including a 5- by 7-foot HD projector for 3D football viewing, a game room for kids, and plenty of wings, shrimp, burgers and beer. $$ L D hpfe CHAMPIONS SPORTS BAR AND GRILL 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 671-4246. Another

68 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

popular option at the striking downtown Marriott, Champions provides a fun, casual dining alternative with a Kentucky sports theme — and a gallery of big-screen televisions to keep the sports action flowing as freely as the libations and upscale pub grub. $$ L D hp CLUCKERS WINGS 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-8100, 100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 590-3662, 313 W. Cardinal Blvd., 365-1665. At this growing chain, you can get your wings doused in an array of sauces, from honey barbecue to spicy garlic barbecue to sweet Thai chili to inferno — a habanero-based sauce that has a legit name. Also breaded and grilled tenders, chicken sandwiches, appetizers and salads. $ L D hpf CRESCENT HILL CRAFT HOUSE 2636 Frankfort Ave., 895-9400. Bluegrass Brewing Co. has renovated the old Dark Star dive, where it serves only locally produced beers, its own and its many competitors (or are they colleagues?). The menu is focused on local food sources, too, and there is live music and an outdoor patio. $$ Br L D hf DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 895-7513, 630 Barret Ave., 690-7040. $ L D

hpfe 

DIAMOND STATION 2280 Bardstown Rd., 409-4332. A classic bar and grill in the Upper Highlands has plenty of TVs, wings, burgers, wraps and salads, eight beers on tap and about 50 in bottles. Several ciders too. $ L D hp DOWN ONE BOURBON BAR & RESTAURANT 321 W. Main St., 566-3258. Situated down one flight below street level, this cool, shaded watering hold stocks 150-plus Bourbons, local craft beer and serves wines by the glass. A small but clever bar menu offers burgers, sandwiches and more. $$ L D pfe DRAKE’S 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 614-7327, 3921 Summit Plaza Dr., 384-3921. Lexington-based Bluegrass Hospitality Group has two lively outlets, in the old Burdorf’s building in St. Matthews and the second at The Summit. Twenty-four craft beers on tap to wash down the traditional pub grub of tacos, ribs and — these days — sushi. Familyfriendly by day and a hoppin’ spot at night, with music videos and a DJ. $$ L D hpf FIELDHAUS 826 W. Main St. New Albany IN, 9200030. This new “old school sports bar” offers upscale burgers and ballpark fare. On the wall are photos of legendary local sports teams, and on the menu are fried pickles, green chile wontons, chicken and waffles, grilled cheese and housesmoked wings. $$ L D hp FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 585-3700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’s one of the best options in the city. $$ L D hpf FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930. Steam-table service featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ L D p GALAXIE 732 E. Market St., galaxiebar.com. The guys behind RYE just down the street now have the Green Building space for a bar dedicated to moderately priced drinks ($7 cocktails are what they are shooting for) and a bar menu of “international-inspired street food,” which was described as “easy to take with you,” so you can nosh as you imbibe. A beer garden in the back is planned. $$ L D hpf GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616. A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ L D hpfe

GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 637-9128. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north of the university campus offers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled fare plus pizza. It’s perhaps best known, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the best burgers in town. $ L D hp GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr. (Hilton Garden Inn), 637-2424. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwiches are available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ Br D pf GRIFF’S 323 W. Cardinal Blvd., 939-3535. This new upscale sports bar in the Cardinal Towne restaurant row is named for U of L and NBA basketball legend Darrell Griffith. There is plenty of Dr. Dunkenstein’s basketball memorabilia scattered around, and its location contiguous to campus will undoubtedly make it a prime viewing spot for U of L games. $$ L D hp GYPSY’S SPORTS GRILLE 7207 Fegenbush Ln., 909-0922. “Gypsy” is the name of the owner’s rescued Boston terrier. The husband-wife team who own this Fern Creek hangout offer all that a sports fan could want: wings and ribs, nachos, potato skins, fried pickles, sandwiches, pork chops and steaks. $$ L D hpfe HIGHLANDS TAPROOM GRILL 1058 Bardstown Rd., 584-5222. Another nice choice for beer and bar food along the B’town Rd. corridor, but with former Lilly’s chef Tommy Clemons at the helm the menu includes, but extends beyond, the usual beer cheese, chili and burgers. Look for the crabby patty, smoked shrimp scampi, or French toast sausage, house made with egg and maple syrup. The pulled pork spring rolls are on their way to becoming legendary. $$ L D hpfe HILLTOP TAVERN 1800 Frankfort Ave., 742-2908. The Skelton brothers (John is an alum of Seviche) have taken over this prime Clifton location, once the original location of Café Lou Lou. Their tavern fare is focused on barbecue, with pulled pork and beer-butt chicken specialties, along with hefty sandwiches (their meatloaf is a standout). $ D hp HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 2394724. In addition to its full bar and beer garden, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including burgers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ L D hpf HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot where hot wings and hoops reign supreme. $ L D hpf JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarksville IN, 2882100. Quality, affordable fare that goes well beyond pub grub to include an awesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so tender, they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls off. $ L D hpf JOHN O’BRYAN’S TAVERN 4123 Flintlock Dr., 4494940. $ B L D KHALIL’S 10966 Dixie Hwy., 632-2227. A family sports bar in Valley Station boasts plenty of TVs, including some tabletop TVs in booths. Menu presents the usual bar food suspects — salads, wings, burgers — but the burgers are on pretzel buns. $ L D hp LONE WOLF FAMILY SPORTS BAR 5501 Valley Station Rd., 653-7671. This family-run sports bar, named after its patriarch, called “Lone Wolf,” offers standard sports pub fare: appetizers, soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, wings, hot dogs and dessert. Lunch, dinner and an all-day Saturday Happy Hour. $$ L D pfe

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

LOUIS’S “THE TON” 1601 Story Ave., 409-4977. Oldtimers know the Butchertown space as Johnson’s Beer & Bait, but new owners have renovated it to capture the atmosphere of a European “public house” focusing on moderately priced drinks, cold plate appetizers and tapas such as cheeses, meats and sausages and olives. $$ D he MIKE’S TAVERN 3521 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 945-8915. A tavern that serves a full breakfast — eggs, bacon, hotcakes. For lunch, a varied 1/2-pound burger menu — jalapeño burger, bacon burger, mushroom burger — plus a 2-pounder that is free if it can be eaten in 60 minutes. Breakfast or lunch served anytime. $ L p NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ L D hpfe OLD HICKORY INN 1038 Lydia St., 384-3171. The Schnitzelburg building has been around forever, has suffered indignities, like a fire that gutted it a few years ago, but has always bounced back. Now it is expanding its presence with a new kitchen, outdoor deck and a food menu aimed to be competitive with other Germantown hipster hangouts. $ L D hp O-LINE SPORTS GRILL 2813 N Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-6171. You can watch every game, every sport all year long, they claim. While you do, you can chow down a variety of bar food, such as the juicy Lucy cheese burger or nacho burger. The kids might like the mini-footballs, franks encased in pastry dough, fried and served with dipping sauces. $ L D hp  OVERTIME SPORTS BAR & GRILL 307 Central Ave., 805-1167. It has everything a sports bar should have: 16 high-definition televisions, two fully stocked bars, three outdoor patios and a game room with arcade games, pool tables and dart boards. Food too: appetizers, oven-baked sandwiches, pizza, steaks, salads, wraps and pastas. $$ L D

hpf

PLANET BAR & BISTRO 1565 Bardstown Rd., 6547866. This sassy and stylish bar at the hot corner of Bardstown Rd. and Alta serves a menu full of double entendres: a plate of “mouth openers” (antipasti, more or less); aspharos (an appetizer made with asparagus, prosciutto and cantaloupe) is described as “as long as one’s throat”; and the Menage a Trois dessert is “something everyone should have at least one” of. An eclectic range of adult music sets the mood. $$ D hpe RIVER CITY DRAFTHOUSE 1574-1/2 Bardstown Rd., 690-5111. Another beer joint along the Bardstown Road corridor boasts more than 20 taps focused on independent, American, craft beer (in sample, halfpint and pint sizes) and several bottled options. Its limited (for now) bar menu has garnered early praise for its wings. $$ L D hf ROOTIE’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 12205 Westport Rd., 365-4681. The first entry of the Buffalo-based chain to open in the area. Rootie’s angle is charcoalgrilled wings with a thick, hickory-smoked spicy sauce. $ L D hpf ROOSTERS 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 Dixie Hwy., 384-0330, 1601 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 590-3391, 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 883-1990. (See review under Casual Dining) SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two restaurants in one, Saints features both a small, intimate, candle-lighted room and a larger, happily boisterous main room with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ L D hpfe SERGIO’S WORLD BEERS 1605 Story Ave., 6182337. Despite minimal signage, Sergio’s Butchertown digs pull in his fans, who dig the quirky website, and the whole aura of haughty mystery. What you really need when you locate the place is a desire to explore Sergio’s world beer inventory, nearing 1000 different brews. $$ D h

THE SPORTING NEWS GRILL 6551 Paramount Park Dr. (Holiday Inn), 966-0000. Just what you want in a sports bar: seven 52-inch screens, subscriptions to all the pro and college sports networks, and hearty appetizers, Angus burgers, steaks, shrimp and salmon. $$$ L D hpf THE SPORTS & SOCIAL CLUB 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-1400. This Cordishowned spot has four bars — including one that opens out onto the street — plenty of TVs to catch every game, and even a “stadium style sports media room.” Chow down with the usual burgers, sandwiches and wings. $$ L D hpf SPRING STREET BAR & GRILL 300 S. Spring St., 584-6630. A classic American bar and grill, open late on weekends, dispensing cold beer, burgers, sandwiches and good cheer in a friendly atmosphere. The decor includes a collection of old bicycles hanging from the ceiling, and amenities include several video games and pool tables. $$ L D hp TAVERN ON FOURTH 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 588-8888. This spacious sports bar is the latest addition to the festivities at Fourth Street Live. You will find plenty of games, filling upscale bar food and lots of drink choices at the bar. This newest addition, targeting the 30 and older crowd, sprawls over two stories of the Kaufmann-Strauss building, including the space that was the Improv Comedy Club. $$ D hpfe THE BACK DOOR 1250 Bardstown Rd. (Mid City Mall), 451-0659. You need a bit of perseverance to track down this saloon on the back side of Mid-City Mall. When you do, you will find one of the city’s friendliest pubs, with a reputation for the best pour of drinks around. Limited bar fare, but don’t miss the chicken wings. $ D hpf THE CURE LOUNGE 1481 S. Shelby St., 619-2178. The big old building at the corner of Burnett and Shelby Streets. has a long history, and The Cure Lounge is adding its chapter. Renovated and restyled by long-time Monkey Wrench bartender Alison Freels as a “super sexy lounge” with a small plates menu, this outpost brings a club vibe to Germantown.$ D hpfe THE GOAT 700 Landis Ridge Dr., 437-3000. Ohio-based LC Lifestyle Communities operates this small chain of unusually named upscale-casual restaurants. Enjoy quesadillas, stuffed potatoes, salads, “double-grind” burgers, wings, pizza, wraps and craft beer on the expansive deck or around the community pool, or join one of the competitive leagues in euchre, corn hole or volleyball. $$ L D hpfe THE LIGHTHOUSE 202 Main St., Jeffersonville IN, 283-0077. This lighthouse has been a beacon of casual, home cooking and tavern environment for years. Daily specials, appetizers, chicken and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ L D pe TIN ROOF 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1940. This Nashville-based chain, which took over the old Brendan’s location in the heart of St. Matthews has a split personality: a family-friendly vibe during the lunch hours; and a rockin’ juke joint at night with live music until 3 a.m. Its menu encompasses everything you expect from bar grub: deep-fried hot dogs, hot wings, quesadillas and salads for the ladies. $ L D hpfe TROLL PUB UNDER THE BRIDGE 150 W. Washington St., 618-4829. On the downslope alongside the Clark Memorial Bridge, a large troll beckons the adventurous into a space excavated out of the lost space in the old whiskey warehouse. The renovation boasts lots of dark, brick-walled spaces, as well as a funky outdoor dining area in the lightwell. The menu offers stacked sandwiches, bison burgers and sweet potato tots, and ribeye steaks. $$ L D hpf VIC’S CAFÉ 1839 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 9444338. $ L D

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music  = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 69

WINGSTOP 4812 Dixie Hwy., 409-6000, 2007 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7171. This Texas-based chain with 500 restaurants nationally, now reaches into Louisville. Their specialty? Wings of course, and you can get them 9 different ways. $$ L D hp ZANZABAR 2100 S. Preston St., 635-9227. An icon of the ’70s bar scene, the Zbar has resurrected itself at its original Germantown location. The stylish tile front has been recreated anew, the arcade is stocked with vintage pinball and electronic games, and the Beer Can Collection is as long as your arm. The chow is high-quality bar grub — things like wings, fried egg rolls, pizzas, sandwiches, salads, and the Death Star cookie, baked in a skillet and topped with ice cream. And top-flight live music late into the night. $ L D hpfe

ABYSSINIA 554 S. Fifth St., 384-8347. This downtown Ethiopian restaurant has gained many fans with its variety of hearty stews, known as “wots,” and interesting vegetarian choices, with large portions and reasonable prices. $ L D ADDIS GRILL 109 S. Fourth St., 581-1011. The signage of this downtown ethnic eatery promises “Mediterranean & Ethiopian Cuisine,” but the menu offers mostly Mediterranean standbys — kabobs, hummus, baba ghannouj, dolmades, tabbouleh. $ L D h BARAKA RESTAURANT 519 W. Oak St., 822-3046. This all-halal restaurant serves African, Asian and Indian dishes. At the counter you pick a meat and choose an accompaniment of rice, bread or noodles. The fish curry with chapati and chicken saqaar with rice are good examples. Goat is often available for those who want to try something different. $ L D CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 4218 Bishop Ln., 473-8959. Offering another interesting ethnic cuisine to Louisville’s international dining

scene, with generous portions of spicy Senegalese cuisine from West Africa. $ L D h FUNMI’S AFRICAN RESTAURANT 3028 Bardstown Rd., 454-5009. Billing itself as serving “Modern Nigerian Cuisine,” Funmi’s offers a range of dishes from North and Central African cultures. Sample goat in a soup or a thick stew. Try soya, a West African shish kebab with a spicy peanut rub or moin-moin, a savory bean cake or lablabi, a Tunisian chickpea soup. Vegetarian and vegan dishes are available as well. $$ L D MAA SHA ALLAH 4113 Bardstown Rd., 491-3152. The name is an Arabic blessing or expression of joy, meaning “Whatever Allah wants to give.” This little Buechel storefront is another example of the entrepreneurial spirit of recent immigrants, in this case from Senegal and Sierra Leone. The menu is African, the ambiance modest, the food spicy and tasty. $$ L D QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialties. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ L D

A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582, 8105 Lagrange Rd., 327-6863. $ L D ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888. Competent cookery and careful management that ensures buffet offerings stay fresh and hot makes these buffets a good choice among the many of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ L D AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569. August Moon’s secret ingredient is the culinary

oversight of Chef Peng Looi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style. Consistent commitment in the kitchen and from the staff makes it a top spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the rear affords a pleasant alfresco dining experience. $$$ L D hpf CHEER KING STAR 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. Just what downtown needed — a Chinese buffet for quick lunches. Mostly the familiar, a mix of Cantonese, Szechuan and Hunan choices for those who need a little spice to fire them up to get back to work. $ L D CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ L D CHINA 1 8105 Lagrange Rd., 327-6863. $ L D CHINA BISTRO 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. $ L D h CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-8989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the other places typical of the genre. $ L D CHINA CAFÉ 8625 Preston Hwy., 969-9222. $ L D CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ L D CHINA COAST 4952 Manslick Rd., 363-4259. $ L D CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ L D CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the most popular eateries around the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. $ L D CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ L D CHINA TASTE 135 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 284-5580. $ L D CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ L D CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ L D CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ L D h CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ L D CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $ L D CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RESTAURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ L D CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 2600 W. Broadway, 778-2573. A standout among fast-food shopping-center Chinese eateries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently wellprepared and flavorful fare. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 6832 Bardstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668, 5222 Dixie Hwy., 448-1988. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353.$LD EAST STAR BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868. $$ L D EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hwy., 568-2688. $ L D EGGROLL MACHINE 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259. The Chinese side of the menu at Café Mimosa is presented as The Egg Roll Machine, as opposed to the Vietnamese dishes on the fine dining Mimosa menu. All the expected Chinese favorites are here, including combination platters. $ L D hp EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Center, 426-1717. One of Louisville’s fanciest and most noteworthy Chinese restaurants, the Emperor’s quarters are stylishly strewn across multiple levels of a former suburban movie theater. Outstanding. $$ L D hp EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500. Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empress was one of Louisville’s first serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its fare still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ L D hp 

70 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh Street Rd., 448-0588. $ L Dh

better yet, it adds a few Vietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ L D

GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $LDh

LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898. Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fresh, competent cookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ L D

GOLDEN STAR CHINESE RESTAURANT 3458 Taylor Blvd., 368-1833. $ L D h GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ L D GREAT WALL 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton restaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ L D h

LUCKY HOUSE 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 896-1818. $ L D

GREAT WOK 2502 Preston Hwy., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a fast-food Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of word-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargain-basement price. $ L D

ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-0188. Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and wooden-bucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $ L D f

HAPPY CHINA 9106 Taylorsville Rd., 493-1001. $ L D HAPPY DRAGON 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8788. You guessed it: a good, go-to standard pan-China family-style restaurant in Jeffersontown that’s always there when you’re tired of cooking dinner for the clan. $ L D HIBACHI SUSHI BUFFET 5316 Bardstown Rd., 491-8228, 5729 Preston Hwy., 969-3788. Capitalizing on two seemingly persistent trends in American dining, this hot table place offers standard Chinese buffet dishes, and standard sushi choices. Cashew chicken, shrimp with garlic sauce, Dancing Dragon roll, spring and summer maki — it is all here. $$ L D  HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. Third St., 3678828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese standards hot and fast and inexpensively. Check out the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ L D h HUNAN WOK 6445 Bardstown Rd., 231-0393. $ L D h

NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ L D

ORIENTAL CAFÉ 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-0077. $ L D ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017. New owners continue the tradition at this longstanding St. Matthews restaurant, featuring both traditional Chinese-American and now, authentic Cantonese, menus. $ L D p ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A longtime area favorite in this heavy traffic lunch area. This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ L D PANDA CHINESE RESTAURANT 9543 U.S. 42., 228-6400. $ L D PANDA EXPRESS 1075 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN 288-0774, 1232 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3268430. The Pentagon even has one of the 1500+ outlets of the nation’s largest Chinese fast food chains, and now we have two. Moderately priced chow such as orange chicken, Beijing beef, SweetFire chicken breast and honey walnut shrimp fill the menu. $ L D

PEKING CITY BISTRO 12410 Shelbyville Rd., 2536777. A lot of familiar items on the menu here, but those in the know ask for a Chinese menu and order the dumplings or the xiao long bao (steam bun with meat filling).Dishes are handsomely presented and servings are large. $ L D PEKING CITY EXPRESS 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 8910388. A lot of familiar items on the menu here, but those in the know ask for a Chinese menu, and order the dumplings or the xiao long bao (steam bun with meat filling). Dishes are handsomely presented, and servings are large. $$ L D QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ L D RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 3437 Breckinridge Ln., 499-7788. $ L D SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 426-6767. Another Asian restaurant that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Garden offers high-end Chinatown style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of fare. $ L D TEA STATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. This comfortable, sitdown Chinese restaurant now owned by Ben Jackson, a partner in Z’s Steakhouse and Oyster Bar, is now offering delivery to Norton Commons and adjacent suburbia. $$ L D hp WEI WEI CHINESE EXPRESS 526 S. Fifth St., 8890815. $ L D WONTON EXPRESS 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646. Traditional Chinese fare. Family-owned-and-operated, this popular neighborhood establishment has enjoyed a steady patronage for seventeen years. $ L D YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 426-0800, 13301 Shelbyville Rd., 245-9264. This locally owned and operated colorful and stylish fast-casual restaurant now has a second location in Middletown Common. The menus offer

JADE PALACE 1201 Herr Ln., 425-9878. Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time, but don’t miss it at mid-day Friday through Monday, when it offers the metro area’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ Br L D hp  JASMINE 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. Like many Chinese restaurants, Jasmine is in a strip mall, but this is not just another hot table stir fry joint. There is an American menu, but those in the know will ask for the 14-page Szechuan menu, featuring such interesting things as pig ear in sesame oil, hot and spicy intestines, spicy diced rabbit foot, frog legs, beef maw and tendon Szechuan style – one of the most popular choices, the manager said. $ L D p THE JOY LUCK 1285 Bardstown Rd., 238-3070. This fine Asian restaurant in a shot-gun house across from Mid-City Mall serves familiar Chinese dishes very well done, as well as some authentic Taiwanese offerings. Duck dishes cooked in three different styles — Cantonese, Taiwanese and Beijing — found early popularity. The stunningly redone interior and the quality of the food make Joy Luck a competitor with the town’s better Asian restaurants. $$ L D hpf  JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 495-0028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ L D h L & J ASIAN CUISINE 6017 Timber Ridge Dr., 2288399. This Pan-Asian spot in the Kroger-anchored strip center at Hwy. 42 near River Rd. offers a large familiar Chinese selection that also includes Vietnamese, Thai and Japanese dishes, and a good vegetarian selection. $$ L D f LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese;

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music  = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 71

an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes from all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sit-down restaurant quality and style. $ L D f  YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ L D YOU-CARRYOUT-A 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 282-8881, 621 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-1788. $ L D 

ARATA SUSHI 9207 U.S. 42, 409-4880. Unlike many Japanese restaurants, Arata is a dedicated sushi place, with only a few items that fall outside of the maki, nigri and sashimi offerings. Chef Paul Pel, a 25-year veteran of the sushi art, has over 30 different maki rolls to choose from, including some uniquely incorporating fruit. The elegant modern interior, and the commitment to the freshest ingredients have been drawing in fans from beyond the East End. $$ L D p

Taiwan transforms organic soy beans from Ohio into soy milk and then coagulates and presses it into tofu as you watch. $ L D HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651, 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. Japanesetrained chef Norihiko Nakanashi brings his skills to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in Westport Village. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon offers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. A second location takes over the downtown space from the former Caviar. $$$ L D hp  KAILANA SUSHI 6435 Bardstown Rd., 614-7244. Fern Creek gets its own sushi bar, with generous rolls priced competitively — nothing over $12. Four levels of 13-piece, mix and match lunch specials, as well as rice, noodles and salads. $$ L D h

ROOTS 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6688. Coco Tran, who has nurtured a loyal Clifton-area fan base with her Zen Garden, looks to seduce the vegan/ vegetarian world of the Highlands with this crisp, elegant room. Eat at tables in the front, enjoy smoothies and tea at the bar, or snuggle down in a Japanese pit table in the back. Choose from an international selection of small plates. $ L D

BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 217 S. Fifth St., 581-0700. Adding international flair to its downtown neighborhood, Bendoya is a genuine, serious sushi bar in a storefront just across the street from the courthouse. $$ L

RUMPLINGS 2009 Highland Ave., 432-7727. Chefs Dustin Staggers and Griffin Paulin (chef-owner and opening chef, respectively, at Roux) were sure that Louisvillians needed a noodle and dumpling shop, and the constant crowds at their Highland outlet seem to show their instincts were good. Hot steaming bowls of savory stuff are served until 5 a.m. $ D h f

CHOI’S ASIAN FOOD MARKET 607 Lyndon Ln., 426-4441. This suburban Asian grocery now serves hot table fare to enjoy while shopping. $ L D DANCING SUSHI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 2809 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-3387. $$ L D DRAGON KING’S DAUGHTER 1126 Bardstown Rd., 632-2444, 202 East Elm St., New Albany IN, 7258600. Owner Toki Masubuchi’s audacious take on fusion cuisine looks to enchant New Albanians as they have Bardstown Road hipsters. The eclectic and somewhat funky menu builds on traditional Japanese ingredients with unexpected twists: pizza topped with sashimi, and tacos filled with avocado tempura. $ L D hpf

SAKE BLUE JAPANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 708-1500. This Fern Creek restaurant brings the “full-service” Japanese restaurant experience to the southeast part of Louisville Metro. Look for hibachi grill tables and a sushi bar, along with a traditional dining room and cocktail bar. $$ L D hp SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600. Located in elegant, upscale quarters in a St. Matthews shopping center, Sakura Blue — direct descendant of the old, popular Bonsai — ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ L D h

FUJI ASIAN BISTRO 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0488. $$LDp

HANABI JAPANESE RESTAURANT 6027 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-8244. A hospitable welcome, casual setting, and well-fashioned sushi and Japanese specialties have made this family run Prospect spot a worthy alternative in the East End dining scene. $$ L D hp HEART & SOY 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6678. To the left is Roots, a sit-down restaurant. To the right is Heart & Soy, serving vegetarian “street food,” and entertaining passers-by with a glass-walled tofumaking room. State-of-the-art equipment from 72 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

MT. FUJI 309 Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. The quickeating strip on the north side of U of L’s campus needed a Japanese place to satisfy students’ sushi cravings. The menu also has tempura and Japanese noodles. $ L D p

OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501, 426 W. Market St., 588-8899. This long-standing Clifton favorite also has a second location downtown, serving up sushi and other Japanese dishes in a bright and cheery environment to a loyal clientele. $$ L D

BAR CODE 1758 1758 Frankfort Ave., 209-9061. Song Kim, formerly the chef at Osaka, emphasizes sushi, along with a menu of Japanese and Korean appetizer-style dishes such as yakitori, Japanesestyle skewered chicken. Better yet, they are open until 2 a.m. every night but Sunday. $$ D hpf

GINZA ASIAN BISTRO 9420 Shelbyville Rd., 7498878. A one-stop Asian restaurant. Choose to eat from the Chinese, Japanese or Thai kitchen, or sidle up to the sushi bar for all manner of vegetarian or fish-focused rolls, or sushi combos that include miso soup and salad. A la carte sushi entrées too. $$ L D hp

MR. LEE’S ICHIBAN JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE & SUSHI 1510 Lake Shore Ct., 412-3339. This large Japanese-farmhouse building, originally a Benihana, offers similar delights, with the traditional sliceand-dice food show and good sushi. Best deal, while the offer lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ L D p

OISHII SUSHI 2810 Taylorsville Rd., 365-3474. This small, attractive and popular sushi spot serves all the popular maki and nigri near Bowman Field. $$ LDh

ASAHI JAPANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130. This small room in St. Matthews houses this neighborhood sushi spot where award-winning Chef Yong Bong Tak, formerly of Osaka, works his magic at the sushi bar. $ L D

FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978, 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036. Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your order, then sit back and sip your tea while the artist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ L D hp

MIKATO JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 6001 Pleasant Colony Ct., 365-3614. This upscale hibachi grillhouse has moved out to Crestwood. Pleasant decor, entertaining grill chefs and fresh sushi preparations. $$ L D hpf

KANSAI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-9538, 1850 S. Hurst bourne Pkwy., 618-1870. Traditional Japanese dishes and sushi are available here, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ L D hp KOBE STEAKHOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’s first serious Japanese restaurant has been drawing crowds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ L D p MASA JAPANESE 12336 Shelbyville Rd., 409-5040. Middletown, too, joins in the sushi expansion. Open for lunch and dinner, the standard menu is bolstered by daily chef’s specials. Lunch specials include the Japadawg, a hot dog with Japanese toppings, a range of teriyaki choices and ramen noodles, Japanese style. $$ L D h

SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550, 649 S. Fourth St., 589-3333. With its location in the middle of Bardstown Road’s “restaurant row,” trendy, glitzy Sapporo has established itself as one of the city’s top spots for sushi and Japanese fare. Its second location is in a beautifully designed space in Theater Square off Broadway downtown. $$$ L D hp SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 3940123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and service make it a pleasant dining destination. It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ L D hp STAR SUSHI 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 725-8444. Jeffersonville joins the sushi craze with its own source of yellowtail rolls, sashimi and nigiri, which is drawing fans for the freshness and flavor of its offerings, and its very fair price point. $$ L D

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

TOGO SUSHI 700 Lyndon Ln., 883-0666. Lyndon sushi fans love this drive-thru sushi joint, finding servings fresh, large, tasty and way better than takeaway sushi from supermarkets. $$ L D TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanese treats, prepared with care and flair from highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ L D  TOMO 4315 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 9410200. This Japanese hibachi steak house offers a good show of knife skills and tableside grilling, as well as sushi. Patrons seem to admire the oversize sushi rolls, the salads with ginger dressing, and the grilled chicken and scallops. $$ L D p WILD GINGER SUSHI & FUSION 1700 Bardstown Rd., 384-9252. This Highlands sushi and Asian fusion spot has a sushi bar up front, and a pan-Asian menu in the back dining room. Standard Japanese entrées are joined with specials from Korea (bibim bop) China (Sichuan-style crispy tofu) and Thailand (pad thai and curries). $$ L D hp

CHARIM KOREAN RESTAURANT 4123 Oechsli Ave., 290-8900. “Charim” can be rendered as “the table is set.” In this case with home-style Korean food, including nokdo jeon, a pancake with mung beans and kim chee — house-made kim chee at that. This modest St. Matthews place quickly became a hit, expecially for the banchan, the assortment of sides that come with each entrée. $ L D  KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’s few restaurants devoted entirely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ L D

right up there with the top Thai places in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ L D SALA THAI 8125 Bardstown Rd., 231-1992, 10403 Glenmary Farm Dr., 493-3944. This entry on the growing list of Thai restaurants is gaining fans, partly because it is vegetarian- and vegan-friendly. $$ L D SIMPLY THAI 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9670, 12003 Shelbyville Rd, 690-8344. Owner Mahn Saing and his wife, a classically trained Thai chef, are pleasing diners in St. Matthews and Middletown. Their menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items use many ingredients from their small home garden. $$ LDf TAN THAI RESTAURANT 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 948-2012. It’s in a strip mall, but the folks who run TanThai create a distinctive atmosphere by hanging sheer white scrims that divvy the room up into serene little chambers. The menu of Thai specialties is small — just a dozen or so entrées — but nicely executed and beautifully presented. $ L D THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 425-4815. You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor Walk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family offer a small but well-prepared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ L D f THAI NOODLES 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. The menu covers Thai standards like pad Thai and curries, with some interesting variations, including several duck items, such as Bangkok duck and pineapple curry duck. Noodle dishes range from flat and thin egg noodle to bean thread and rice noodle. $ L D THAI SIAM 3002 Bardstown Rd., 458-6871. Louisville’s first Thai restaurant, this venerable spot has built a

loyal audience over the years, perhaps responding to its regular visitors’ preferences with food that’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$ L D

ANNIE CAFE 308 W. Woodlawn Ave., 363-4847. Annie Cafe ranks not just as one of the better Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when value and price are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ L D CAFÉ MIMOSA 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259. Owner Phat Le, serving his Vietnamese, Chinese and pan-Asian dishes to happy regulars, might finally wean Louisvillians from referring to his building as the former Lentini’s. $ L D hp CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 366-6959. A bit off the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic Vietnamese. Friendly service overcomes any language barrier, and prices are hard to beat. Don’t miss the banh mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ L D FOUR SISTERS 2246 Frankfort Ave., 384-4262. Four Vietnamese sisters have developed a devoted following for their Clifton coffeehouse and tea room that also serves sweet and savory crepes and bahn mi. $ L D LA QUE 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981. La Que provides the lower Highlands with a dependable, economical Vietnamese menu that includes some dishes from other Asian cuisines. $$ L D hf LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 2447110. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ L D h

LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 456-9714. This little spot has been a secret since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an office building, but push past the counter to the back room, where you’ll find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$ L D h SARANG 1908 Eastern Pkwy., 216-2351. The store on the Eastern Pkwy. side of the Schuster Building most recently was a Ce Fiori yogurt shop, but it now serves Korean food such as bibimbap, mandoo, ramen and dak-kangjung. Bubble tea is back, too. $ L D

GENGHIS GRILL 4002 Towne Center Dr., 426-4945. The chain of Asian stir-fry restaurants has been steadily moving northward from its Dallas home base. At this suburban location just beyond the Gene Snyder Freeway you can choose one of their dozen “signature bowls” including Szechuan bamboo beef, ginger herb shrimp, Mexican jalapeño and chipotle steak. Or design your own from a choice of protein, vegetables, sauces and starches. $$ L D p SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 9148 Taylorsville Rd., 493-0234, 423 E. Warnock St., 409-5029. Thirteenth Century Mongol warriors used to turn their steel shields to use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swords as spoons. Shah’s carries their spirit forward. This all-you-can-eat buffet is fun, and the food is fine. $$ L D 

MAI’S THAI RESTAURANT 1411 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’s is the eatery to beat among the metro area’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality, it’s

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music  = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 73

48-81_Guide_fall15_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/1/15 3:45 PM Page 74

NAMNAM CAFÉ 318 Wallace Ave., 891-8859. This small St. Matthews Vietnamese restaurant has gained many enthusiastic fans who flock there for the pho, the banh mi and other authentic Vietnamese dishes. $ L D f PHO BINH MINH 6709 Strawberry Ln., 375-9249. Tiny and lovably cozy, this six-table South End spot is true authentic Vietnamese, and so are the proprietors. There’s some language barrier, but the owners are so friendly, and the food so good, that it’s worth the effort if you love real Asian fare and inexpensive prices. $ L D SAIGON ONE 333 W. Cardinal Blvd., 638-8989. When U of L students get the sniffles, they just have to have quick access to a bowl of steaming pho. This Vietnamese place at the new university dorm and restaurant row at Cardinal Towne provides needed sustenance. $ L D h VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154. This little South End storefront is well worth seeking out. The chef goes beyond the ordinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. We have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or service. $ L D h YEN HAPA 2245 Bardstown Rd., 456-2022. Bahn Mi Hero is gone, but the same owner now serves noodle soups (Vietnamese pho), noodle salads and stir-fried noodles. Focus is on Vietnamese dishes with tastes of Thailand, Cambodia and Singapore too. $$ L D ZEN GARDEN 2240 Frankfort Ave., 895-9114. Vegetarians with a philosophical bent have found a combination guru and den mother in Zen Garden’s owner Coco, who serves up sincere and soulful Asian vegan dishes. $ L D h

BISTRO LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. This art deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine. Chef Alexander Dulaney and owner Anthony Dike’s refocus of the restaurant around a bistro menu continues its popularity. $$$$ D pfe BRASSERIE PROVENCE 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 883-3153. This Provencal-style French brasserie serves classical and Southern France specialties. Owner Guy Genoud, a native of Cannes, and chef de cuisine Edoardo Bacci offer a large selection of mid-priced lunch and dinner fare including an array of seafoods, lamb, duck and beef, daily “plat du jour,” delightful aperitifs, wines and cocktails just like you’d find in Provence. $$$ L D hpf GHYSLAIN 721 E. Market St., 690-8645, 1215 Herr Ln., 690-6001. The two locations of this French bistro, in NuLu and in Westport Village are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, serving grilled baguettes, croque monsieurs, panini, quiches, soups, salads, and fine chocolates. $$ B L D LOUIS LE FRANCAIS 133 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 944-1222. This charming French bistro extends the range of international dining options in New Albany. Louis “Louis the Frenchman” Retailleau serves a menu typical of the cuisine of his native southwest France. $$$$ Br D p

EIDERDOWN 983 Goss Ave., 290-2390. The owners of the Germantown watering hole Nachbar also operate the popular Eiderdown, serving Southern comfort food influenced by the owners’ German and European heritage. Dreams of a microbrewery there also dance in their heads; in the meantime, diners are satisfied with a large selection of European craft beers on tap. $$ L D h

74 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. Michael and Annemarie Greipel came here with their five kids in 1993, straight from North RhineWestphalia to St. Matthews. Tiny lights twinkle from strands of fake red geraniums. But the hearty German fare — schnitzels, sauerbraten and rouladen with red cabbage and dumplings — is the real thing. $$$ D

IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544. Owner Michael Reidy is the Irish rover, having come to the U.S. from County Clare in 1984. His saloons are as smooth as Guinness, as warm as fish and chips, as genuine as Scotch eggs. The Frankfort Avenue building dates from 1859. $ Br L D pf

BLU ITALIAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott). See listing under Upscale Casual. BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4932426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ L D hp  CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your ordinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery. This place dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate ItalianAmerican fare at reasonable prices. $$$ L D hpf CENA 9200 Taylorsville Rd., 333-0376. (See review under Upscale Casual.)

MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-1222, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 882-2222. A carefully constructed replica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s, a worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking scene, has added a second, suburban location. Both are as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ L D hpfe

COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1777. With both locations being in urban neighborhoods, Come Back Inn looks pretty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike other neighborhood saloons, these house a family Italian spot that wouldn’t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $$ L D p

MORE SHENANIGAN’S 4521 Bardstown Rd., 4933585. $ L D hpfe

DELFINO’S ITALIAN BISTRO 3701 Hopewell Rd., 749-3935. A brand-new, old-school Italian eatery with many expected pleasures and few surprises. Pastas and pizzas and subs, chicken parmesan or eggplant, Tuscan grilled steak and cannoli and tiramisu for dessert. $$ L D

O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. One of the most popular watering holes in the entire Bardstown-Baxter corridor. Twenty-somethings and Louisville belles love its action. But diners of all ages like its meat loaf, roast beef and Irish stew. When music fills the rooms, it’s great to be Irish, even if you’re not. $$ L D hpfe PATRICK O’SHEA’S 123 W. Main St., 708-2488. This downtown Irish bar was one of the first to open in the Whiskey Row complex. Crowds have been elbowing in for upscale Irish-inflected bar food and plenty of sports talk. $$ L D hpfe SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ L D hpfe

ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. A part of the dining renaissance on the sunny side of Louisville, Adrienne’s has been pleasing Indiana diners with home-style Italian dishes. The owners also operate Adrienne’s Bakery in Jeffersonville. $$ L D  AMICI 316 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-3167. Satisfying traditional Tuscan dishes are served in this interesting — and supposedly haunted — Old Louisville building. Dine inside or on the romantic patio on a lovely summer evening, There’s no extra charge if the ghosts want to share your penne alla Lorenzo or Valpolicella. $$ L D pf ANSELMO’S ITALIAN BISTRO 1511 Bardstown Rd., 749-0444. Highland residents hankering for simple, traditional, filling Italian dishes can find just that in this Italian bistro. The menu offers what one would expect: pizza, pastas, lasagna — at reasonable prices. $$ L D hp  BELLA ROMA AUTHENTIC ITALIAN RESTAURANT 134 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-9495. Bella Roma adds classic Italian-American choices in a pleasant environment in the midst of New Albany’s growing restaurant row. $$$ L D f BISTRO 42 6021 Timber Ridge Dr., 632-2552. Another entry in the dining choices at Prospect Village shopping center. This little family-run place, serving pasta, sandwiches and Italian and American dishes is proud of its 5-cheese 3-meat Bistro lasagna and their 3-hour honey-baked ham, offered at an attractive price. $$ L D hpfe

DIFABIO’S CASAPELA ITALIAN RESTAURANT 2311 Frankfort Ave., 891-0411. DiFabio’s Casapela has made its mark in this Crescent Hill space, with a menu that harks back to the red-checked tablecloth and Chianti bottle era of Italian restaurants. Look for baked stuffed mushrooms and toasted ravioli, veal parmesan and chicken piccata, and your choice of pastas with your choice of sauce. $$ D f DON VITO’S ITALIAN BISTRO 207 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 913-4792. What was once briefly the Irish Exit is now an Italian bistro shooting for the ambiance of “an Italian speakeasy” with a full bar and a menu including Gorgonzola fettuccine, seared salmon puttanesca, and pork scallopini. $$ L D pf THE INTERNATIONAL MALL 737 S. Eighth St., 561-8871. $ L D LE GALLO ROSSO 1860 Mellwood Ave. , 742-7006. The long-time Bardstown Rd. favorite that closed last year has returned, with chef Annette Saco again leading the Italian bistro, though located now at the Mellwood Art Center. Service now includes breakfast (omelets, lemon ricotta pancakes, chocolate chip waffles and Bourbon Trail French toast) and lunch, with take-out dinner service until 4. The late-day offerings include flatbread pizzas, pastas, soups, salads, sandwiches and a trattoria burger. $$ B L D p MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr. 394-9797. Now locally owned, Martini’s continues to serve hearty, well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas, a comfortable approximation of a Tuscan trattoria. An open kitchen with wood-fired oven gives a peek at the culinary goings-on. $$$ L D hpf OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventures of this national firm. Bright and noisy, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ L D hp THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3397190, 9730 Von Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 4805 Outer Loop, 968-2978, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Darden chain, Olive Garden now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ L D hp

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

48-81_Guide_fall15_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/1/15 3:45 PM Page 75

PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Offices for blocks around empty into this bustling Italian eatery for weekday lunches featuring hearty platters of lasagna, zesty salads, red wine and iced tea. On Saturdays, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $$ L D PORCINI 2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. This anchor trattoria of the Crescent Hill dining scene has been serving up risotto, ossobuco and bistecca since 1992. Crowds wait at the popular bar for one of the tables — or just wait at the bar. $$$ L D hpfe ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at this casual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ L D hp SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Outer Loop, 969-5545, 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-5400. Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ L D  STEVE-O’S ITALIAN KITCHEN 4205 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this casual eatery just off I-71 at Buckner well worth a special trip out from the city. $$ L D TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’t been over-served by restaurants, this good-sized storefront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an expert’s hand with hearty, red-sauced ItalianAmerican fare at a price that’s right. $$ L D hp VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. (See listing under Upscale Casual.) VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatra, pasta with tomato sauce and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish Volare kicks that image up a notch. With a combination of Italian standards and monthly menu updates, Chef Josh Moore has secured Volare a top spot for suave Italian dining. Its U.S.D.A. Prime barrel-cut beef program has received rave reviews. $$$ D

DAKSHIN INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. This Indian restaurant has won many fans with its aromatic and spicy Southern Indian fare to the Buechel-Fern Creek neighborhood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ B L D p KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1277 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ L D hf LITTLE INDIA CAFÉ 2956 Richland Ave., 479-3353. It’s sort of an Indian fast-food place. The menu includes appetizers such as lentil soup and mirchi bajji — fried lentil-battered stuffed peppers — followed by Northern lamb and vegetarian entrées, tandoori chicken and kebabs. There’s also a selection of Indian breads. A Punjabi-style (Northern Indian) lunch buffet is for those who want really fast service. $ L D f MOUNT EVEREST VIEW 4109 Bardstown Rd., 3847760. Louisville’s first restaurant serving the cuisine of Nepal, the home country of owner Hasta Rai. Look for a fairly spicy cuisine similar to Indian food, with dishes that include lentils and rice. Buffet choices, as well as menu options. $$ L SHALIMAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1820 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriarch of local Indian restaurants. With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ L D  SHANDAAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1801 Priority Way, 261-7391. Fans of this new Indian eatery have been favorably impressed with its fresh, vibrant lunch buffet offerings. $$ L D TAJ PALACE 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 423-9692. Focused on Northern Indian cuisine, the menu offers a wide range of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Spiciness can be decided by the customer. Lunch buffet and dinner menu. $$ L D f

hpfe

A.J.’S GYRO CAFÉ 9280 IN 64, Georgetown, IN, 9511715. $ L D f ARTESANO TAPAS VINO Y MAS 1321 Herr Ln. Fernando Martinez’s latest idea (he’s the owner of Guacamole, Cena, M&BB and more) is a “casual and authentic Spanish tapas restaurant.” Look for dishes such as wood-fire roasted octopus and potatoes and individual servings of paella, Iberico ham sliced to order, and larger sharable plates. $$ B Br L D hpf MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Center, 425-0949. An offshoot of the popular St. Matthews Cuban restaurant Havana Rumba, Mojito quickly established its own identity as the East End spot for Spanish-inspired small plates with a global taste profile. Always crowded on weekends; no reservations, but call ahead to get high on the waiting list. $$ L D hpf

BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-8892. With its broad array of Indian regional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its aromatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ L D CLAY OVEN INDIAN RESTAURANT 12567 Shelbyville Rd., 254-4363. Northern Indian cuisine comes to Middletown, with a focus on the clay oven specialties of the region, including some Nepalese dishes, like goat curry and chicken mo-mo (a kind of chicken and dumplings dish). Also look for a selection of lamb dishes and, of course, a large vegetarian menu. $$ L D

AL WATAN 3713 Klondike Ln., 454-4406. Classic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a destination for lovers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ L D ALADDIN’S CAFÉ 111 W. Market St., New Albany IN, 489-7969. The name should be a clue that Aladdin’s Café brings Middle Eastern cuisine to the still-growing dining scene in New Albany. You’ll find beef, lamb or chicken gyros, chicken shawarma, tabbouleh and hummus. Finish your meal with thick Turkish coffee. $ L D h ANDALOUS MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 709-4001. Though we’re not complaining, most Mediterranean cafés around town skew toward standard Middle Eastern hummus and falafel fare. Andalous does too, but it serves more ethnically eclectic fare too, including foul, an Egyptian fava bean dish, and tagines and harira, typically Moroccan dishes. $$ B L D

CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. Highlands diners enjoy an eclectic and international menu at the friendly corner place, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biryani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-style, just about 24/7. $ B L D hpf CASPIAN GRILL PERSIAN CAFÉ 2716 Frankfort Ave., 290-6050. Middle Eastern food of an aboveaverage quality. Kabobs and hummus, of course, but also shirazi salad with tomatoes, cucumbers and onions in a lemony dressing, and chicken stew with pomegranate and walnuts. $ L D EAT A PITA 1613 Bardstown Rd., 409-8484. After its expansion more than doubled the space in this once-tiny spot, more diners can enjoy MediterraneanMiddle Eastern favorites, as well as the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fresh pita, of course. $ L D  THE FALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bardstown Rd., 4544407. This small Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and affordable sustenance along the Bardstown-Baxter entertainment strip. Look for the usual Middle Eastern fare in a casual, quick-service setting. $$ L D hf GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. Relatively recent renovations and an expanded menu have elevated the Grape Leaf to destination status, placing it well above the generic Middle Eastern eatery niche. Prices remain affordable, while the food and mood now justify a special trip. $$ L D

f

LITTLE JERUSALEM 5312 S. Third St., 614-6465. Middle Eastern fare in the ethnic food complex around Iroquois Manor. The usual things, like hummus and falafel, but also chicken sumac and fatoush and mujadara, made from green lentils, basmati rice, onions and exotic spices. $ L D MASALA GRILL 528 S. Fifth St., 562-0202. $ L MIRAGE MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 4100 Preston Hwy., 363-7788. Preston Highway’s international restaurant row is enriched by this Middle Eastern eatery, run by the owners of the nowdefunct Little Jerusalem. Gyros, hummus, falafel — what one would expect, but done with attention to details and a flair for flavor. $$ L D f PETRA MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 3904 Bardstown Rd., 749-0924. Another addition to the ethnic choices out in Beuchel. As with many “Mediterranean” restaurants around, the fare is largely confined to that of the Levant schwarmas and hummus and flafel. $$ L D h PITA PIT 9816 Linn Station Rd., 565-1220, 12537 Shelbyville Rd., 565-1220. A franchise operation dedicated to cramming all sorts of fillings into a flatbread pocket. Chomp on a chicken Caesar pita, or a Philly steak pita. Many veggie selections, from garden vegetables to falafel to hummus and baba ganoush. They’re open for breakfast too: ham ’n’ eggs and sausage scramble to go. $ L D PRINCE HOOKAH LOUNGE 1489 S. Fourth St., 6184201. With the Highlands just about packed as full as possible with hookah bars, now Old Louisville residents can drop in for a puff at the corner building that has seen many owners and incarnations over the years, and have a burger, or a turkey sandwich, some falafel or hummus or wings.$ L D h

BARASTI BAR & GRILL 1164 S. Third St., 654-7057. The pleasant Old Louisville corner that once was Third Avenue Café finally has new life as an eclectic lunch and dinner spot offering something for vegans (hummus, falafel, a bean burger and seasonal salads), carnivores (burgers and chicken wraps), and hookah puffers. Entertainment in the evenings, and comedy shows on Sundays. $$ L D f

SAFFRON’S 131 W. Market St., 584-7800. An unassuming location in an odd spot downtown, but a most pleasant space inside, with food and service that continues to please regulars and delight visitors. The popular menu items continue to be rack of lamb, roasted duck fesenjoon, salomon and kebabs. $$$ L D pf

BURNING BUSH GRILLE 13206 W. U.S. Highway 42, 228-7776. This Prospect-area Mediterranean café serves kebabs, steak, fish and lamb, salads, pizza, gyros and Balkan burgers. $ L D f

SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 585-1125. You can get standard American fare at this welcoming downtown quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music  = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 75

Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich? $ L D f SAM’S GYRO 9104 Taylorsville Rd., 491-1182. This Hikes Point hummus and kebab joint has won fans with its, tasty food and friendly service. The menu features everything you would expect from a typical Eastern Mediterranean menu: falafel, tabouli, gyros, baklava and spanakopita. $ L D h SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 426-9954, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3440, 3521 Poplar Level Rd., 632-2232. From a tiny neighborhood storefront, Shiraz quickly grew out of its original location and expanded into a local mini-chain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, such as char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavish bread. $ L D f TAZIKI’S MEDITERRANEAN CAFÉ 13317 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6222. At this Alabama-based chain the food is made fresh daily with vegan and gluten-free choices. The menu includes grilled chicken roll-ups, a grilled tilapia sandwich with dill-caper sauce, gyros, a grilled vegetable and rice plate, roasted potatoes and baklava, along with beer and wine. $$ L D pf TUT’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 3425 Bardstown Rd., 452-1899. The Buechel area’s hunger for hummus, dolmas, lamb and falafel is well served by this Middle Eastern eatery. $ L D f ZÄD MODERN MEDITERRANEAN 1616 Grinstead Dr., 569-1122. Nabil Al-Saba, the owner of Clifton’s The Grape Leaf, has taken over the former location of Pita Delites, updated and refreshed the interior and rebadged it Zäd Modern Mediterranean. The menu will update the usual Middle Eastern version of Mediterranean cuisine, with the addition of some new salads and Mediterranean and Moroccan stews. $$ L D

ZOE’S KITCHEN 500 W. Jefferson St., 585-0000, 4126 Summit Plaza Dr., 329-8963, 3723 Lexington Rd., 409-8963. This chain has been growing throughout the South and Southwest, and now has three Louisville locations. An eclectic menu offers kabobs, hummus, quesadillas, roll-ups, pita sandwiches and chicken, tuna and shrimp salads. $ L D 

J. GUMBO’S 2109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046, 434 W. Jefferson St., 583-6700, 8603 Citadel Way, 4934720, 3017 Poplar Level Rd., 690-8080, 103 Quartermaster Crt., Jeffersonville IN, 282-7823. Former jockey Billy Fox has created a popular minichain serving hearty, affordable Cajun cuisine. The drunken chicken is addictive. $ B L D f  JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426-1320. Fine, filling and authentic Louisiana-style fare is the draw at Joe’s. A lengthy menu and bayou fishing-shack decor showcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ L D p  LOU ORLEANS 430 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 6547927. There is Cajun food on the lunch buffet: always chicken sausage gumbo and a salad bar, and a rotating selection of red beans and rice, jambalaya, Cajun smothered potatoes with shrimp, Cajun smothered cabbage and sausage and fresh sautéed vegetables with chicken. An a la carte lunch menu includes po’ boys and gumbo. $ L ROUX 1325 Bardstown Rd., 530-0531. Chef Dustin Staggers began his recent surge of new business activity with this popular Creole-Cajun place, where he serves classic New Orleans dishes like barbecue shrimp, beignets, chicory coffee and Abita beer in a cozy-funky Highlands space. $$ L D

hpfe

SELENA’S AT WILLOW LAKE TAVERN 10609 LaGrange Rd., 245-9004. This Cajun/Creole place in a renovated Anchorage roadhouse continues to find fans. Shrimp or fish with Manale sauce is a tribute to Pascal Manale’s in New Orleans. $$ Br L D hpf

CATRACHOS RESTAURANT 4231 Taylor Blvd., 654-7401. The food here is Central AmericanLatino, things like baleadas (folded, filled flour tortillas) and chuleta ahumada (a smoked pork chop dinner with beans, rice, plantains and a Honduran cream sauce). Tacos and tamales, too, plus authentic pupusas, explained on the menu as” thick, handmade stuffed corn tortilla.” $ L D CUBAN FLAVOR 5700 Outer Loop, 618-2181. The flowering of Cuban/Caribbean cuisine is reaching out beyond the city. This little place, in a strip mall, of course, brings black beans and rice and pork asado to Okolona. $ L D EL RINCON CUBAN RESTAURANT 8118 Preston Hwy., 742-2768. Bringing Cuban cuisine to Okolona. Along with familiar dishes such as arroz con pollo, the menu also includes specialties such as tasajo (braised beef in tomato sauce), ajiaco (a root vegetable stew made with malanga, yucca and corn) and cremas — a variety of pureed vegetable soups. $ L D HABANA BLUES TAPAS RESTAURANT 320 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 944-9760. Owner Leo Lopez has rebooted his restaurant concept in a new location (a former bank; the safe is still there, behind the bar) but installed in the front of the restaurant is a 1951 Plymouth, typical of the automobiles of Havana’s tourist hey-day and a recreation of the raft he built to emigrate from Castro’s Cuba when he was 18. Cuban-style tapas on the menu, also a halfdozen bocaditos (sandwiches) and a few dinner dishes such as paella Valenciana and arroz con pollo. Live music nightly — tango, flamenco and salsa. $$ L D pfe  HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959, 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5375. A true taste of Old Havana can be found at both locations of this consistently busy Cuban restau rant. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as any in Key West or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar, have earned Havana Rumba a place on our short list of local favorites. $$ L D p f HAVANA RUMBA & TAPAS BAR 2210 Bardstown Rd., 749-4600. The Havana Rumba family brings Cuban food to the Douglass Loop, and adds a large selection of Spanish tapas as well. Fans have also spoken reverently of the mojitos and other cocktails in the stylish bar. $ L D hpfe  ROOF TOP GRILL 708 Louis Coleman Jr. Dr., 785-4069. This little spot just off Broadway is authentically Jamaican, its brightly colored chalk menu offering items such as jerk chicken, jerk rib tips, curry chicken and oxtails, and sides of rice, meatless collard greens and cabbage. The Jamaican owner even makes his own seasonings. $LD YOLI’S CAFETERIA 328 W. Woodlawn Ave., 8223150. It serves Cuban food cafeteria style. Go through the line and load up on ropa vieja, fried plantains, yucca and black beans and rice. Don’t overlook the dulce de leche at the dessert end. $ BLD YUMMY POLLO 4222 Bishop Ln., 618-1400. You can get Peruvian-style charcoal roasted chicken here by the piece, half or whole bird. American-style side dishes include fried or mashed potatoes, rice, steamed vegetables, slaw and pasta salad. $ L

76 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

CHUY’S 104 Oxmoor Crt., 327-3033, 1440 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-2489. The Austin, Texas “unchain,” has two area locations, offering a complimentary happy hour nacho “car bar” set in the back end of a 50s era auto, plenty of Elvis memorabilia, and a wall of chihuahua photos. Oh, and TexMex food at reasonable prices. $$ L D hpf  MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Breckinridge Ln., 893-6637, 4652 Chamberlain Ln., 425-3330, 1020 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-6637, 9310 Cedar Center Way, 614-7722. The food may be more fastfood Mexican-American than authentic South-ofthe-Border fare, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ L D SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 365-1424. Another entry in the hot “Fresh Mexican” niche that features gigantic burritos made to order. Now with two locations, in St. Matthews and Middletown. $ L D f TUMBLEWEED TEX MEX GRILL & MARGARITA BAR (14 locations). Starting as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany, Tumbleweed grew to become an area favorite serving bold, southwest-inspired food such as burritos, spicy chile con queso, mesquitegrilled steaks, fish and chicken. Each Tumbleweed Margarita Bar offers two dozen tequila varieties and dozens of sweet and tangy margarita combinations. $ L D hp

BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 4014 Dutchmans Ln., 899-9600, 1907 S. Fourth St., 899-9746, 1250 Bardstown Rd., 694-0040, 428 W. Market St., 8051818. Four locations now scattered around from down to the Highlands to Dupont Circle of this pleasant local chain offer fine fish tacos and simple fast-food Mexican fare in an inexpensive, casual atmosphere. $ L D f 

DON JUAN BIRRIA Y CARNITAS 5637 Outer Loop 708-2165. At this new suburban spot, Juan and Rosa Segoviano, owners of five local Señor Iguanas restaurants, serve up the food of Jalisco, the Mexican state of his birth and the source of much of the world’s tequila production. The bar uses only Herradura tequila for its margaritas, and the simple menu boasts some authentic choices like stewed goat (that’s the birria), pickled pigs’ feet, carnitas and guacamole spiced up with onions and serrano peppers. $$ L D pf EL BURRITO LOCO 9904 Linn Station Rd., 4255465. $$ L D h p EL CAMINO 1314 Bardstown Rd., 454-5417. A highconcept melding of tiki bar, southern California surfer hangout and well-crafted Mexican street-food emporium. The sound track features Beach Boy-era surfer music, and the TVs show surfer movies and Mexican wrestling only. In the warmer months, the patio is THE spot to be. $$ Br L D hpf EL CAPORAL 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1909 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 266-9605. Louisville’s growing Mexican-American com munity has fostered a happy trend: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ L D p EL MARIACHI 9901 La Grange Rd., 413-5770. Fans of this Mexican restaurant, situated between a bakery and an ethnic grocery, find much to rave about: tacos and burritos made with the bakery’s fresh tortillas, funky authentic fillings, and quick, friendly service. $ B L D p  EL MARLIN SEAFOOD RESTAURANT 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-1777. As genuine a take on Mexican seafood cookery as is possible in landlocked Kentucky. Choose mild or spicy preparations of marlin, tilapia, grouper and snapfish. $$ L D p

EL MICHELADAS 3027 S. Fourth St., 742-9687. This near-south side bar specializes in micheladas, the popular Mexican drink made with beer, lime juice and various sauces and spices (think a Mexican version of a bloody Mary). It serves lots of Mexican bar food appetizers like nachos, and offers karaoke as well. $ L D p EL MOLCAJETE 8106 Preston Hwy., 742-3485, 3022 S. Third St., 638-0300. $$ L D hp EL MOLCAJETE 2932 S. Fourth St., 638-0300. You can get gringo-style tacos (with shredded lettuce, cheese & sour cream) at this south-end Mexican joint. But if you come here, why not eat like a native? Lash your pork, beef and chicken tacos with fresh-squeezed lime juice and a heap of sliced radishes. Want to get truly authentic? Step up to beef tongue (lengua), intestine (tripas) or brain (sesos). $$ L D hp EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers creative renditions of Mexican regional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the trendy flair of Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill in Chicago, but the fare mines a similar vein and does so nearly as well. $ L D pf EL NOPAL (20 Locations) These locally owned restaurants have become a growing mini-chain that now numbers twenty, winning popularity on the basis of delicious and inexpensive Mexican fare in comfortable surroundings. $ L D pf EL

RANCHERO 2918 Hikes Ln,. 410-5668. Aficionados of Mexican food speak well of the nacho grande, tostadas de ceviche and spicier-thanusual queso. $$ L D p

EL SOMBRERO 2784 Meijer St, Jeffersonville IN, 2850109. An Indianapolis restaurant group has taken over the old Bearno’s near Meijer in J’ville, and opened this “Americanized Mexican” restaurant. $ B L D p

CAFÉ AROMA 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 618-3434. This little shop along the lower Brownsboro food corridor touts “a world of flavor with a Mexican flair.” It’s mostly Mexican and really mostly good, according to our friends in the neighborhood. Affordable, casual and filling. $ L D CASA FIESTA 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 423-4604. This Mexican restaurant in the Summit area has impressed diners with its clean, modern ambience and its generous portions for reasonable prices. $ L D pf CHIPOTLE MEXICAN GRILL 315 S. Fourth St., 5848606, 10333 Westport Rd., 526-5170, 1075 Bardstown Rd., 452-8990, 13303 Shelbyville Rd., 244-7173. Now with four Louisville locations, this increasingly popular Tex-Mex chain, with an emphasis on cooking with humanely-raised meat products, seems to have struck a chord with consumers. $ L Df COCONUT BEACH TACOS & CERVEZA 2787 S. Floyd St., 634-2843. The huge space that once was Tailgaters is now part of the growing restaurant empire of Fernando, Christina and Yaniel Martinez. The menu here is anchored by bargain-priced tacos created to lure in U of L students from nearby (the place is across from Papa John’s Cardinal Stadium), as well as burritos, empanadas and tortas. Come the weekend, the space is converted into a bar and dance club. $ L D hpf CON HUEVOS 2339 Frankfort Ave., 384-3027. As the name implies, this is Mexican breakfast, so you can get all your favorites con huevos (with eggs) or without. Expect huevos rancheros, chilaquiles, breakfast-style enchiladas (with eggs, of course), frijoladas, churros, and molletes. Tortas and tacos at lunch, too. $ B Br L

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music  = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 77

EL TACO LUCHADOR 938 Baxter Ave., 583-0440. Chef Fernando Martinez keeps churning out creative, taste and affordable restaurants. This time, a taqueria, in the heart of Baxter Ave.’s restaurant row. You may recognize some taco names, such as carnitas or carne asada, but as the Martinezes have done at their numerous other restaurants, everything gets a clever riff in the kitchen. Call it elevated Mexican street food. And do try the amazing tortas. $LDh EL TARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 326-9373. El Tarasco’s take on Mexican food appeals both to the area’s growing Latino population and Anglos who want to enjoy a South-of-the-Border culinary adventure without compromise. $ L D p EL TORAZO 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7272. A family-oriented Mexican restaurant offers the expected menu items, as well as some more sophisticated dishes, such as 7 mares sopa, a soup with shrimp, scallops and octopus; banderillas, a colorful beef brochette; and chuleta sabrosa, a Durango-style grilled steak. $$ L D pf EL TORITO DE JALISCO 4325 Preston Hwy., 4098138. $$ L D pf EL TORO CANTINA & GRILL 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 489-3839. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns our recommendation for food, service and environment. Tex-Mex dishes are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ L D pf  FIESTA TIME AMIGOS 8133 Bardstown Rd., 231-2444. $LDp FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144. $ L D p GUACA MOLE 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 365-4823. When Fernando Martinez returned to Louisville, he started his remarkable new restaurant blitz with

78 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

this East End “creative Mexican” restaurant. As the name emphasizes, the menu explores different moles, and the creativity comes with modern twists on classic Mexican dishes. Fans quickly warmed to the food and the up-to-the-minute cocktail program designed by Martinez’s wife Christina. $$ Br L D pe HAY CHI WA WAA 808 Lyndon Ln., 883-1924. This Tex-Mex place lives up to its tagline, “Ditch the chains for authentic Mexican.” The menu claims everything is prepared from scratch in generous portions. In addition to fajitas and burritos, there is a “100% Mexicano” section (carne guisada, tacos al carbon), and a fun bar menu. $ L D p ISRAEL’S DELICIAS DE MEXICO GOURMET 1515 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 725-9139. Israel Landon introduced Kentuckiana to his very tasty, uncompromisingly Mexican home-style cooking at La Rosita a few years ago. Now he is back at his original location with a menu very much like La Rosita’s serving street tacos and Mayan quesadillas. Weekly specials highlight cuisine from various regions of Mexico, including seafood dishes and new desserts. $ L D f LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be Louisville’s most startling case of an eatery that is more than it appears to be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fast-foodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $ L D h LA COCINA DE MAMA 520 S. Fourth St., 315-0666. The restaurant space just south of the Seelbach has seen several concepts over the years. The newest one, replacing the Sol Aztecas that had a reasonable run, is also a Mexican restaurant, with a name that promises down homey ethnic dishes. Early enthusiastic fans report that though the menu lists standard Mexican fare, the execution of those

dishes is excellent—comments like “best Mexican I’ve found in the city.” Quick service for lunch, a commitment to fresh ingredients and a tasty Happy Hour margarita have earned it good word of mouth. $$ L D hpf LA HACIENDA GUADALAJARA 4132 Outer Loop, 384-6427. $$ B L D LA POPULAR 2521 Seventh St Rd., 636-3688.$LD p LA RIVIERA MAYA 8104 National Turnpike, 361-3566. This South End Mexican restaurant is popular with local Latinos, which is always a good sign. Look for gorditas and carne asada, as well as familiar fare like enchiladas. Word is that the horchata is rich and spiced just right. $ L D p LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 8730 Westport Rd., 618-4588, 5059 Preston Hwy., 618-2883. For those who crave genuine Mexican tacos, you want them convenient when the urge to scarf one down strikes. These little places will certainly satisfy those cravings. $ L D LA SIERRA RESTAURANT AND TAQUERIA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small but thriving Latino community grows, it’s now possible to enjoy an authentic Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gordita wagon that rolls up in the Eastland Shopping Center Thursdays through Sundays only. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza Costas and Ofelia Ortiz are completely bilingual, and as friendly as can be. $ D hf LOLITA’S TACOS 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 459-4356. This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the food is about as genuine Mexican as you’ll find. Crisp or soft tacos and burritos the size of paper-towel rolls turn a meal here into a real bargain. $ L D f LOS AZTECAS 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-2450. Genuine Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville, thanks to a

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

growing immigrant com mu nity. With fresh bar and blender offerings, creative appetizers and comfortable seating, Los Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ L D pf

like salmon and shrimp, steak and several Mexican chicken preparations. $ L D hpf 

MANGO’S BAR & GRILL 4632 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-5291, 1921 Bishop Ln., 749-5300. $$ L D 

TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year Taco Bell was born in Southern California, the Taco Tico chain had been gone locally for more than a decade. Its happy return has been drawing remarkable crowds. $ L D

MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán arguably kicked off the restaurant renaissance along East Market Street, in the area now known as Nulu. His stylish bistro serves distinctive cuisine from Ucán’s native Yucatan Peninsula. $$ L D

TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Preston Hwy., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront. This is seriously ethnic stuff, but Anglos are thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily provide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ L D

ME GUSTA LATIN KITCHEN & BAR 129 W. Main St., 583-5505. New owners at the Whiskey Row space that recently housed a Sol Aztecas Mexican restaurant have introduced a pan-Latin menu featuring quesadillas, tacos and fajitas, plus a Cuban sandwich and steak tampiqueno at lunch. For dinner, you’ll find the Argentinian mixed grill parrillada and marinated lamb shank with Peruvian spices.$$ L D hpf

TAQUERIA RAMIREZ 4806 Bardstown Rd., 4919300. The location most recently was a Señor Taco; under new ownership it offers what is to be expected — tacos, burritos, enchiladas, fajitas, quesadillas — but with sincerity and fewer accommodations to American tastes. Unassuming decor, but satisfying Mexican food. $ L D p

MEXICAN FIESTA 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ L D hp PINA FIESTA REAL MEXICAN GRILL 7895 Dixie Hwy., 995-6775. Fans of Mexican food have another place to try, out along the wide, wide highway. You won’t find anything new here, but they say it will be real. $ L D p PUERTO VALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-3588, 125 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 288-2022, 7814 Beulah Church Rd., 239-4646. $$ L D p QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL (14 locations). This chain operation extends from Louisville to Frankfort and Lexington. Fast-foodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ L D f

TIENDA LA CHAPINLANDIA 1209 McCawley Rd., 384-7075. If those tiny hole-in-the-wall places are the best for real Mexican food, this little South End place will satisfy Okolona’s need for tacos and burritos. $ L D p VILLE TAQUERIA 3922 Westport Rd., 721-2886. Owner Fabian Garcia builds tacos upon scratchmade tortillas, tortas, and burritos — the way he tasted them when he visited Mexico as a kid. The bar serves margaritas, “bourbonritas” and micheladas (the beer, tomato juice and hot sauce concoction commonly found in better Mexican restaurants). $ L D hp

WILD RITA’S 445 E. Market St., 584-7482. Downtown needed this new concept from the owners of Wild Eggs: Modern Mexican food and a hundred choices of tequila at the bar. Owners J.D. Rothberg

and Shane Hall, along with Chef Tony Efstratiadis have put together an entertaining and tasty menu, with things like tangy-spicy ceviches, mussels con chorizo, tamarind-glazed cod, a bunch of different tacos and an upscale tamale. $$ L D hpe YELLOW CACTUS 3620 Paoli Pk., Floyds Knobs IN, 903-0313. A yellow neon cactus draws diners to this Indiana restaurant that offers standard Mexican cantina fare, as well as steak and chicken in both American and Mexican styles, and a few seafood dishes. $ L D hp

ARGO SONS COFFEE 3640 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-9396. This roastery is mostly a wholesale business, but there is a classic espresso bar, so you can run in, buy a few pounds of beans and have a nice cuppa. No crullers or Danish, though. $ BEAN STREET COFFEE CO. 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1404. Bean Street introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just an eatery, but a cultural hangout. $ BORSALINO COFFEE AND EUROPEAN PASTRYDELI 3825 Bardstown Rd., 807-5325. This Buechel store is somewhere between a coffee shop, a fancy bakery and a deli. You can stop in for your morning coffee and sweet bun to go, buy a cake for dessert or take away a stuffed pita for lunch. $ COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-2633. $ f DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy, with an oldfashioned feeling, Day’s has everything you would expect in a college-neighborhood coffee shop except a college near by. $ h f

RAMIRO’S CANTINA 2350 Frankfort Ave., 895-3333. Ramiro Gandara’s Mexican restaurant in the heart of Crescent Hill’s restaurant row has his mom, Tina Ruton Escajeda, in control in the kitchen. Together they deliver some unique menu items, such as enchiladas verdes, lobster quesadilla, guacamole burger, and shrimp fajitas. And don’t forget Tina’s specialty: scratch-made tamales. Vegetarian choices too, and a full bar. $ L D hpf ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213 Preston Hwy., 962-8898. Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Preston looks like another tacqueria but the specialty, Mexican-style roasted chicken, takes it to another level, juicy and succulent and roasted golden brown. Chicken simply doesn’t get any better than this. $ L D hp SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eatery in a century-old South End storefront near Churchill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ L D SEÑOR IGUANA’S 1415 Broadway St., Clarksville IN, 280-8555, 3105 S. Second St., 368-0876, 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 425-4581, 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 409-9565, 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 742-1900. This expanding local chain is going upscale, with re-designed crisp modern decor, well-prepared Mexican food, and plenty of it, in a casual, comfortable modern atmosphere. $ L D hpfe SIN FRONTERAS 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 292-0901. $$ L D p SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Rd., 459-7776, 5612 Bardstown Rd., 618-3430. Founded by Saul Garcia down on Main St.’s museum row, his two current outlets have an extensive menu that satisfies those who want standard fare like tacos, fajitas and burritos, and also offers more sophisticated fare

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music  = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 79

48-81_Guide_fall15_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 8/1/15 3:48 PM Page 80

HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE (14 locations) Heine Bros. continues their dominance in the local brewing scene. The stores are always friendly and affordable, with good coffee roasted on the premises and a short list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches. $ h fe HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 4514545. Offering two ways to get wired, this cozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of Louisville’s top Internet cafés, where you can enjoy a hot cappuccino while you surf the ’net in a WiFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ h f THE HOBKNOBB ROASTING CO. 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1458. HobKnobb offers fresh hot coffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ f JAVA BREWING COMPANY 1707 Bardstown Rd., 384-3555. This casual spot boasts the ambience of a friendly old-fashioned book shop, with comfortable seating, a good selection of pastries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $ fe KOLKIN COFFEE 2736 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 920-0593. This family run caffeine dispensary on the north side of New Albany serves coffee from Sunergos roastery in a cheerful, inviting environment. $ LOUISVILLE COFFEE COMPANY ESPRESSO BAR CAFÉ 10414 Watterson Trail, 797-3257. This suburban caffeine provider offers all that a Hurstbourne-bound shopper will need to charge up: lattes, cappuccinos, chai, Italian sodas. $ B L D LOUISVILLE TEA COMPANY 9305 New LaGrange Rd., 365-2516. Teas of all sorts, pastries and cookies make for a perfect morning snack the English call “elevenses.” $ B L MRS. POTTER’S COFFEE 718 W. Main St., 581-1867. $ f PLEASE AND THANK YOU 800 E. Market St. This little coffee house with a difference serves breakfast and lunch, and offers an eclectic selection of vinyl records, which can be sampled in a listening room. Try the ganache latte, Thai iced coffee, granola parfait, Capriole cheese with honey and grapes on a baguette, or a field greens salad with dried cherries and blue cheese. $f QUILL’S COFFEE SHOP 930 Baxter Ave., 742-6129, 327 W. Cardinal Blvd., 690-5553, 137 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 590-3426. Fans of this local purveyor of excellent coffee and provider of amenable working spaces can find their caffeine fix and wi-fi hotspot at any of the three locations. $ f RED HOT ROASTERS 1402 Payne St., 569-0000, 901 S. Fourth St. (Spalding University), 585-9911. Drive-through the original take-away joint (entrance off Lexington Rd.) or walk into the little space at Spalding, for your morning latte, coldbrewed iced coffee drinks., or excellent whole beans roasted on the premises. $ SISTER BEAN’S 5225 New Cut Rd., 364-0082. $ f SMOKEY’S BEAN 1451 S. First St., 749-6900. Located on the corner of 1st and Burnett, this coffeehouse and sandwich shop gives good choices to Old Louisville residents. Locally roasted coffee plus frappes. On Friday and Saturday nights sit down and puff on a hookah until 2 a.m. $ h f STARBUCKS COFFEE (35 locations) $ f STARLIGHT COFFEE CO. 3131 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 542-1522. This sister outlet to Bean Street Coffee also produces high quality joe to those on the upper fringes of New Albany. In both you can find all the popular varieties of coffee and chai, as well as baked goods from Adrienne’s in Jeffersonville. $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243, 306 W. Woodlawn Ave., 368-2820, 231 S. Fifth St.,

80 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

589-3222. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pro — the result is Sunergos Coffee. $ TAZZA MIA 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy. (Ramada Plaza Hotel), 499-9719. The Cincinnati-based coffee shop joins the food options at the Ramada Plaza in eastern Jefferson County. Patrons can find breakfast pastries such as Danishes and muffins along with the house-roasted coffees. $ VINT COFFEE 2309 Frankfort Ave., 894-8060, Now owned by Heine Bros. this Crescent Hill location is the only one that keeps the name that reflects the concept that all their beverages — coffee, tea, ale and wine — will “have a vintage, an annual release cycle.” $ f

2 DIPS AND A SHAKE 321 W. Main St., 566-3258. Got an ice cream craving? Specifically a Comfy Cow craving but you don’t have the time to rush from downtown to the ’burbs to sate it? Then visit this spot across the street from Actors Theater to get your fix. $ f ADRIENNE & CO. BAKERY CAFÉ 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of this cozy Southern Indiana spot, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f ANNIE MAY’S SWEETS CAFÉ 3110 Frankfort Ave., 384-2667. The only gluten and nut-free bakery in the state caters to customers with dietary issues such as celiac disease and allergies. Cookies, brownies, cakes, pies, wedding cakes all made without wheat, dairy, eggs, soy or tree nuts. Arrive early, before the vegan and allergen-free oatmeal cream pie cookies sell out. $  THE ARCTIC SCOOP 841 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-6602. Flash-freezing by liquid nitrogen produces super smooth and creamy ice cream, the owners of this family run shop assert. Choose your flavor combinations, and watch it all come together in front of your eyes. $ h THE BAKERY 3100 Bardstown Rd., 452-1210. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their business, this excellent establishment is part of the culinary program at Sullivan University. It’s hard to beat the quality breads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ BOUDREAUX’S NEW ORLEANS STYLE SNOBALLS 11816 Shelbyville Rd., This little family run shop offers the garishly colored shaved ice treat with all sorts of syrup flavors and toppings. $ f BREAD AND BREAKFAST 157 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 725-5983. Baker Laura Buckingham made a solid reputation selling her artisan baked goods at farmers markets. Now she’s moved to downtown New Albany building where she makes breads, scones, muffins and savory items such as cheese panini with bacon, pepperoni or spinach, strata and bacon cinnamon rolls. $ B L  BREADWORKS 3628 Brownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ B CAKE FLOUR 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 425-0130. This little bakery, with its all-natural ethos and locavore connections expanded its menu options beyond savory scones into bacon and egg biscuit sandwiches, catered box breakfasts for offices and large quiches by pre-order. Lunch offerings include stuffed croissant sandwiches and soups, and a new espresso bar is there to deliver a fresh jolt. $ f 

CELLAR DOOR CHOCOLATES 1201 Story Ave., 5612940, 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall Kiosk). Erika Chavez-Graziano continues her chocolate explorations at her artsy shop in the Butchertown Market building on Story Ave., as well as at a kiosk in Oxmoor Mall. Look for esoteric, but luscious, inventive chocolate confections such as beer flavored truffles and avocado soft-centers. $ CLIFTON DONUTS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 7496896. A family from Thailand produces very fresh donuts of all sorts daily to an appreciative crowd from the Clifton corridor. Fans favorably compare the offerings here to those at the chains, lauding freshness of product and friendliness of service. $ B COCO’S CAKES 501 W. Oak St., 836-1707. This recently opened little bakery in the near West End does special orders and wedding cakes, as well as cupcakes and cheesecake. $ THE COMFY COW 1301 Herr Ln., 425-4979, 2223 Frankfort Ave., 409-4616, 339 W. Cardinal Blvd., 409-5090, 109 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 9247197, 1449 Bardstown Rd., 365-2853, 1450 Veteran’s Pkwy., Jeffersonville, IN, 725-7358, 13301 Shelbyville Rd. Now fans of this “newfashioned” ice-cream parlor can find their favorite flavors popping up all over town as outlets are now in Jeffersonville and Middletown Common. And, you can now find Comfy Cow products packaged in Krogers ice cream section. $ f THE CUPCAKE SHOPPE 3701 Lexington Rd., 8992970. You won’t need three guesses to name the specialty at this little St. Matthews bakery, which has gained instant popularity for its wide variety of moist, tender cupcakes, always made in house. $ DALAT’S GATEAUX & BAKERY 6915 Southside Dr., 368-9280. It’s a French bakery, run by a Vietnamese family, which makes perfect sense. Order French pastry, cakes and cookies as well as Vietnamese specialties. Savory choices, such as pork pate wrapped in choux pastry are also available. $ DESSERTS BY HELEN 3500 Frankfort Ave., 451-7151. Helen Friedman has earned a loyal clientele since the 1970s with her elegant cakes, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $$ DINO’S BAKERY 4162 Bardstown Rd., 493-2396. Dino Ghazawi, whose family owned a bakery in his native Jordan, has renovated space in the Buechel Plaza Shopping Center, installed three ovens for baking pita, French and Italian bread and pies. Many of those are sold wholesale, but retail shoppers can get locally made fresh pita and other Middle Eastern groceries. $ B DUNKIN DONUTS 1250 Bardstown Rd., 290-3865. You will find hot sandwiches as well as doughnuts and coffee, just what you need to get you going in the morning or to get you steady enough to get home at night. $ B L h THE FUDGERY 416 S Fourth St.(Fourth Street Live), 409-7484.$ GELATO GILBERTO 9434 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-7751. Justin and Kristin Gilbert so loved the gelato they ate as students in Italy that they returned there after graduating to study gelato making. Their popular store draws fans out to Norton Commons, though owners can often be found scooping cones and cups at special events. Their store menu includes pies and crepes as well. $ h GIGI’S CUPCAKES 1977 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4994998. The first outpost of the Tennessee bakery chain in Kentucky, this little shop offers a changing selection of high-end cupcakes in designer flavors — Bailey’s Irish cream, apple spice, coconut snowball, and so on. $ GREAT HARVEST BREAD COMPANY 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-8573 $ B L

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville area since your great-aunt was a girl ordering dinner rolls. Made fresh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ HOMEMADE ICE CREAM & PIE KITCHEN 2525 Bardstown Rd., 459-8184, 1041 Bardstown Rd., 618-3380, 3737 Lexington Rd., 893-3303, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 267-6280, 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 326-8990, 12531 Shelbyville Rd., 245-7031, 5606 Bardstown Rd., 239-3880, 3113 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville IN, 590-3580, 2232 Frankfort Ave., 409-6100. $ L D hf HONEY CREME DONUT SHOP 514 Vincennes St., New Albany IN, 945-2150. Off the beaten track, this down-homey bakery in a plain white building offers a wide selection of doughnuts, fritters and Danish that keeps the shop’s fans coming back again and again. $ B JACKKNIFE CAFÉ AT CELLAR DOOR CHOCOLATES 1201 Story Ave., 561-2940. A big conceptual change here morphs Jackknife from a breakfast café to a bakery. Come in any weekday for cupcakes,and mini-cheesecakes, and be aware that what look like Rice Krispie treats harbor a substrate of other cereals under the sticky bonding. Or, explore a hot chocolate flight, each variety accompanied by a different flavored marshmallow. $$ B L p

needing a sweets fix. Come in to see the line up of elaborately decorated cakes, custom cookies, cupcakes, pies, fudge and sweet breads. Need a cake in the shape of an enchanted castle for your little princess’s birthday? Call Marlyce. $ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 4269645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ B NORD’S BAKERY 2118 S. Preston St., 634-0931. This old-school, family-owned bakery on the edge of Germantown has a devoted following, drawn by divine Danish, donuts, and great coffee from the nearby Sunergos micro-roastery — and if you’re a sucker for over-the-top excess, try the caramel donut topped with — yes, it’s true, bacon. $ B PEARL STREET TREATS 301 Pearl St., Jeffersonville, IN. 288-8850. An invigorating walk across the Big Four Bridge will bring you down very close to this family-run frozen yogurt shop that also serves soup, chili, cookies, popcorn, and frozen dog treats. Novelty soda flavors in the cooler, but they will refill your water bottle for free. $ L D PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cream while you wait for your handdecorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ B STATE DONUTS 12907 Factory Ln., 409-8825. $

JASMIN BAKERY 2201 Steier Ln., 458-0013. This “European-style” bakery has moved to more upscale digs but continues to offer fresh breads and rolls, as well as an eclectic menu Eastern Mediterranean fare, such as gyros and baklava, at reasonable prices. $ B L D f

SUGAR AND SPICE DONUT SHOP 5613 Bardstown Rd., 231-1411. This Fern Creek bakery has loads of loyal fans, who often buy out their favorite donut by mid-morning. Coffee to go too, of course, and even little half-pints of chocolate milk. $ B

MARLYCE’S PLACE 1404 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 551-5577. A Triangle Center stop for anyone

SWEET FROG 10494 Westport Rd., 423-3993, 1401 Veterans Parkway Ct., Clarksville IN, 725-7765,

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music  = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

5909 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-3535, 1987 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-9964. The hook here is a wall of live-culture self-serve yogurt dispensers. A toppings bar includes sprinkles, chocolate and butterscotch sauces, graham crackers — and on and on. $ B SWEET STUFF BAKERY 323 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 948-2507. This long-time southern Indiana home-style bakery is noted for baked goods just like your grandmother made. Its specialty: painted sugar cookies, with designs in white chocolate that change with the seasons and holidays. Also custom cookie and cake designs. $ B SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 899-2008. Sweet Surrender, with Jessica Haskell at the helm, has returned to its original Clifton neighborhood to provide elegant desserts. $$ h f SWEETS & SUCH BAKERY 3947 Dixie Hwy., 4491008. A Shively area neighborhood bakery. Cupcakes and cookies, brownies and cake, but its renown stems from the Presidential donut, a cream-filled concoction that won Bill Clinton’s admiration. $ SWEETS BY MORGAN 533 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN. 644-4276. This new bakery began within Ann’s by the River, but it’s since moved to its own space. Owner Morgan Coomer is dedicated to scratch baking and using real butter in her icings. Expect the usual sweet bakery items like cookies and cupcakes, along with clever specialties such as custom-decorated party cake with fondant icing designs. $ B L D WILLIAM’S BAKERY 1051 N. Clark Blvd., Clarksville IN, 284-2867. $ B WILTSHIRE PANTRY BAKERY AND CAFÉ 901 Barret Ave., 581-8561 (See listing under Cafés.)

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 81

MAP INDEX

MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 84 1 downtown louisville 85 NEAR EAST 2 highlands – crescent hill 86 NEAR EAST 3 st. matthews 87 SOUTH EAST 4 hikes point – buechel 88 EAST 5 hurstbourne – anchorage 89 EAST 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown 90 NORTH EAST 7 indian hills – westport 90 FAR NORTH EAST 8 westport rd. – gene snyder NA NEW MAP 9 under construction 91 NORTH EAST 10 prospect 91 SOUTH EAST 11 fern creek 92 SOUTH WEST 12 shively – pleasure ridge 93 SOUTH 13 old louisville – airport 94 INDIANA 14 new albany – floyds knobs 95 INDIANA 15 clarksville 95 INDIANA 16 jeffersonville

82 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

MAP INDEX www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 83

MAP • 1 DOWNTOWN 84 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 85

(NEAR EAST) HIGHLANDS – CRESCENT HILL – CLIFTON

MAP • 2

MAP • 3 (NEAR EAST) ST. MATTHEWS 86 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

MAP • 4 (SOUTH EAST) HIKES POINT – BUECHEL www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 87

88 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

(EAST) LYNDON – HURSTBOURNE – ANCHORAGE – MIDDLETOWN

MAP • 5

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 89

(EAST) HURSTBOURNE SOUTH – FOREST HGILLS – JEFFERSONTOWN

MAP • 6

90 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

MAP • 8

(FAR NORTH EAST) WESTPORT RD – GENE SNYDER (NORTH EAST) INDIAN HILLS – WESTPORT

MAP • 7

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 91

MAP • 11

(SOUTH EAST) FERN CREEK

(NORTH EAST) PROSPECT

MAP • 10

92 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

(SOUTH WEST) SHIVELY – PLEASURE RIDGE

MAP • 12

MAP • 13 (SOUTH) OLD LOUISVILLE – AIRPORT www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 93

94 Fall 2015 www.foodanddine.com

(INDIANA) NEW ALBANY – FLOYDS KNOBS

MAP • 14

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2015 95

MAP • 16

(INDIANA) JEFFERSONVILLE

(INDIANA) CLARKSVILLE

MAP • 15