When you think of China, the word relaxing might not be the first one that comes to mind.
But it is possible when you take a cruise up the longest river in China, the Yangtze.
Just put your feet up on the deck and watch breathtaking scenery change as you sail from east to west, transforming from skyscrapers to tea plantations.
There are excursions ranging from watching monkeys playing in the treetops, to visiting a giant underground nuclear bunker. You can even learn to make dumplings using ingredients you can easily pick up from your local Chinese supermarket.
All this on a top-rate, sumptuous boat, the Sanctuary Yangzi Explorer. All I can say is, get your senses ready for luxury overload.
The Yangtze river (Chang Jiang) is 3,915 miles long and the Three Gorges, near its source, is where you will find its most idyllic scenery.
This is the portion of the river that’s been immortalised for centuries in Chinese paintings and poetry.
The jaw-dropping Xiling Gorge surrounds you with 4,000ft high, forest-covered peaks.
Wu Gorge is narrower, twisting and turning through a misty landscape and you’ll be able to take stunning panoramic pictures from viewpoints at the front and back of the boat.
Finally, Qutang Gorge, the shortest and most dramatic of the three, is where you’ll be able to peek into mysterious gaps where tributaries shoot off inland.
For an insight into China before the factories, enter the Shennong Stream, about half way downstream.
A guide from the local ethnic group, the Tujia people, will take you on a traditional boat up the stunning tributary where caverns carved into the majestic cliffs hold 2,000-year-old coffins.
Watch swallows as they fly in and out of a 5 mile deep cave, but keep your eyes peeled – rhesus monkeys swing and play among the branches on the riverbanks.
You also have the opportunity to learn about the history of the local people, who have their own language and culture.
They make up the workforce of ‘trackers’ who manually pulled boats upstream, against the Yangtze’s raging currents, for centuries.
The typical age of the men doing this very physical job is now 70-85, so sadly the tradition won’t last long.
Many of the paths they walked along from the old days still exist, although the main path was flooded, and remains submerged, after the Three Gorges Dam was completed in 2003.
The dam is the world’s largest hydropower project, measuring 600ft high and spanning 1.2 miles in width, with a cost that ran to the billions.
It was designed to create enough clean energy to reduce China’s reliance on coal, as well as increase the river’s shipping capacity and reduce flooding downstream.
However, the project is hugely controversial as more than a million people were displaced from cities, towns and villages due to flooding upstream as a result of the dam.
Depending on who you talk to, the new cities are a ‘wonderful, wonderful thing’ or have destroyed culture and livelihoods. It’s a fascinating insight into China’s development.
Also in the vicinity of Shennong Stream is Shennongjia national park, a Unesco Biosphere Reserve.
The Sanctuary Yangzi Explorer is the only cruise with exclusive access to the national park, where hundreds of golden snub-nosed monkeys reside.
Take a short walk into the Dalongtan Protection and Research Base and you will hear their calls through the trees.
As well as being seriously cute, these aren’t just any monkey.
The golden monkeys are almost as rare as pandas – and found only in China.
If you’re lucky, you can see the majestic dominant male up close, surrounded by females nursing their babies, and adolescent males play-fighting among the tree tops.
And don’t fear, there are no animals being paraded for pictures, this is a genuine chance to see a fascinating species in an ethical setting.
Aside from the stunning scenery, rich culture and cute animals, the cruise also has a number enrichment programs, including making dumplings.
A specialist chef will show you the tricks of the trade – and most importantly, you can sample his creations.
Try your hand at rolling the pastry in the traditional way, dolloping on the filling and shaping the dough into beautiful pockets of perfection.
And it’s not just cooking classes, you can also try early morning Tai Chi on the deck, learn about acupuncture, or enjoy a traditional Chinese tea ceremony.
You can keep very busy, but then again, you could also watch the world go by while relaxing with a glass of wine on the deck. You decide.
How to get there
I travelled with Sanctuary Retreats on their four night Shennongjia Sailings cruise. They offer a range of itineraries on three or four night cruises between Yichang and Chongqing on the Sanctuary Yangzi Explorer.
Prices for a three-night cruise start from £948, and includes accommodation, all three meals during full sailing days, breakfast on the day of disembarkation, local drinks, entrance fees for the scheduled sightseeing and pre-arranged entertainment/on board activities.
Return flights from Heathrow to Shanghai start at £395 with Air France–KLM.
Bullet train tickets from Shanghai to Yichang or Chongqing can be bought in advance through China DIY Travel. Tickets for a second class seat cost around £50 plus a US$10 booking fee.
(Top picture: Sanctuary Retreats)
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