Why Fragrance Water Is the Perfume World’s New Obsession

Before we started turbocharging perfume with alcohol and artificial additives, bottling fragrances was a relatively simple affair consisting of essential oils, botanicals, and water (hence eau de parfum, which translates to “perfumed water”). Now, a millennium—give or take—after the Romans sprinkled Colosseum guests with balsam mist and medieval ladies washed their hands in rose essence, water-based scents are making a comeback, courtesy of a 200-year-old French apothecary, the Iranian-born designer Behnaz Sarafpour and her new line of chic and pure perfumes, and more noses who prefer the simpler things in life.

Typically all natural, these aromas find favor among clean-beauty devotees, skin-allergy sufferers, and pregnant women who wish to avoid synthetic ingredients. And their lack—or near lack—of alcohol, which is used to enhance both intensity and longevity, appeals to those who prefer their perfume to whisper, not shout. “They’re clean, fresh scents that don’t overpower,” says Jessica Richards, who can hardly keep Sarafpour’s concoctions on the shelf at her Brooklyn emporium, Shen Beauty. “It’s like no-makeup makeup—but no-fragrance fragrance.”

This is a water-based alternative to French perfumer Annick Goutal’s legendary crisp, citrus-powered scents inspired by the sun-drenched hills of Tuscany. Spritz on hair, skin, linens—wherever strikes your fancy.

Launched earlier this year, Sarafpour’s fragrances are as all-natural as it gets. Pure Rose has only two ingredients—water and rose petals. More floral than perfume-y, its scent is frequently compared to freshly cut blooms.

This refreshing, organic cucumber-scented hair and face mist, which is 97 percent water-based, is fragrant enough to double as a perfume, especially in the summer months, when lighter formulas are preferred.

Redolent and hardy, orange blossoms have been a popular ingredient in fragrance water since antiquity. This exuberantly sweet and honeyed version comes in a personalized bottle that makes it the perfect gift—for someone else, or yourself.

Inspired by his favorite spring flowers, creator Christopher Brosius designed this fragrance with the essences of hyacinth, daffodil, crocus, and tulip, and the absolutes of narcissus and jonquil.