It’s easy to dismiss Zürich as a travel destination, given its reputation as a city of bankers.
But look more closely, there are multiple reasons why Switzerland's wealthiest city deserves more attention.
If the austere beauty of its architecture and the river Limmat that flows through the city are not enough to convince a traveler of its charm, it’s worth remembering that Zürich is also a cultural capital of the country -- it was the center of the German-Swiss Protestant Reformation led by Ulrich Zwingli and the birthplace of Dadaism in the early 20th century.
For many, Zürich is a place for a quick business trip or a stopover, often on route to Swiss ski resorts or other European destinations. I had gone through Zürich several times but never paid a proper visit until recently. But the mix of historically relevant sites, excellent art space and stylish restaurants makes it a pleasant weekend destination.
Zürich resembles neither London, where the grand Buckingham Palace is forever swamped by tourists, nor Paris where opulent architecture dominates the city and fashionable crowds are prancing along Champ Elysées. But this compact Swiss city prides itself on its history of significant cultural and political movements. It has celebrated cafes. Some of the world’s most famous chocolates are made here. It may not be a fun city in a loud hedonistic way but it’s certainly worth making an effort to stay a night or two. And I’m glad I did.
WHAT TO DO:
When there’s a limited time, stay in the Old Town.
Start the day with breakfast at Delish Café. This simple modern place has a counter filled with a variety of breakfast options, from bircher muesli to cold meat to baked goods. Coffee is good and various egg dishes can be ordered. It’s popular for its cinnamon rolls -- airy and less dense than their Swedish cousins.
Spend the morning visiting historical sites dotted around the city. Walk down on Niederdorf toward the Grossmünster, one of Zürich’s most important landmarks. It was the center of the Swiss-German Reformation in the 16th century. Cross Münsterbrücke (Munster Bridge) to the other side of the river and drop by the Fraumunster church. Here you will find the five stained glass windows painted by Marc Chagall depicting the Christian stories. Also noteworthy is a glass window "The Heavenly Paradise" (1945) by Augusto Giacometti (not to be confused with Alberto, who is Augusto’s nephew). Walk past St. Peter’s Church, which has the largest tower clock face in Europe (28.5ft/ 8.7m).
Only a couple of hundred yards north, Lindenhof offers scenic views of the city. To the west lies Bahnhofstrasse, the main street in the city and also one of the most expensive shopping streets in the world. The further south you go the more exclusive it gets. Tucked away from this main street, Storchengasse is a street filled with an array of exclusive designer stores. Other than browsing designer stores, stop by Confiserie Teuscher to pick up their famous truffles. Established in 1932 in Zürich, this chocolatier prides itself on making some of the finest chocolates in the world. It’s better not to gorge on the sweet treats and save them for souvenirs instead, so as not to spoil the appetite for lunch at AuGust. This upscale but relaxed boucherie/brasserie is situated in the 5 star Widder Hotel. Weather permitted it’s lovely to sit outside but the interior is atmospheric with its black-and-white-modern-meets-rustic decor. As one can tell from the sausages hanging from the ceilings, they focus on meat dishes with a nose-to-tail approach. They serve breakfast and dinner as well, but weekend lunchtime is particularly lively with fashionable families and stylish groups and couples.
Lunch over, spend the afternoon at Kunsthaus Zürich on the other side of the river. Other than a variety of special exhibitions throughout the year, it houses artworks dating from Middle Ages. It’s particularly worth visiting because of its major collection of 19th and 20th Century art, which includes French impressionism, Dadaism, Surrealism and most importantly, the most comprehensive collection of Alberto Giacometti found in a museum.
Culturally satiated, head to one of many great cafes in Zürich for a cup of coffee or tea. Cafe culture is an important part of Zürich society and the city is teeming with excellent choices, including the famous Cafe Sprüngli (famed for its chocolates) and French style intimate cafes.
Near Kunsthaus, the legendary Odeon coffee bar is worth a visit for its long list of celebrated patrons, which includes Albert Einstein, Stefan Zweig, James Joyce, Somerset Maugham, Benito Mussolini and Vladimir Lenin, just to name a few. With such history, the menu shouldn’t be of much importance but in addition to coffee, they serve dishes such as burgers and grilled fish.
Niederdorfstrasse in the Old Town is home to several cozy cafes. Should you go to Schwarzenbach Teecafe for its fine selection of tea and coffee, don’t forget to drop by Schwarzenbach Kolonialwaren next door, a “colonial goods store” that has been run by the same family since 1864. It’s an excellent place to drop by to pick up high-quality coffee, exotic tea, dried fruits from far-away lands, and much more.
A few hundred yards down the street is Cabaret Voltaire, the birthplace of Dadaism. In this nightclub, a group of writers and artists regularly gathered around the German poet Hugo Ball. It was the place for the intellectual refugees from all over Europe as well as young Zürich artists who were fed up with what was happening in Europe during the dark years of World War I. Here Hugo Ball read the Dada Manifesto in 1916 and his fellow anti-war, anti-institution artists who met to read poems and give musical performances. Now a cafe, performance center and shop, Cabaret Voltaire celebrated its 100-year-anniversary in 2016.
To finish off the day it’s not an easy matter to choose one restaurant, as Zürich has so many good ones. For a unique experience, it’s hard to beat Kronenhalle.
First opened in 1924 by Hulda and Gottlieb Zumsteg in an old beer hall, it quickly became a popular dining spot for artists and intellectuals. But it was their son Gustav who amassed the impressive collection of art which is seen today on the walls. Picasso, Braque and Rauschenberg were some of the famous patrons; Miro and Chagall were particularly close family friends. The only downside is that it may not be easy to focus on your veal steak when you’re sitting under the works by the most celebrated artists of the early 20th Century including Matisse, Picasso, Kandinsky and many others.
WHERE TO STAY:
Stay at Baur au Lac for the most indulgent experience. It’s a stone’s throw away from the luxury shopping district along Bahnhofstrasse but with views of the Alps and Lake Zurich, it feels like a mountain retreat. Michelin-starred Pavillon is one of the most sophisticated restaurants in Zurich. The rotunda with glass windows designed by Pierre-Yves Rochon has beautiful views over the river.
Widder Hotel is another five-star hotel. Discreet in appearance but the interior is a mix of comfort and style. It boasts a central location near Lindenhof with the city view and the shopping area. AuGust, one of the restaurants in the hotel, is a must-try for carnivores who want to taste meat-focused Swiss dishes.
Marktgasse Hotel is superbly located in the Old Town near many historic landmarks. It’s minimalist in its decor and facilities but there are some tasteful details such as Aesop toiletry products in the bathrooms. The hotel also has Baltho Kuche & Bar -- a sleek stylish restaurant -- and the popular Delish Café, where breakfast and lunch can be ordered from the counter.
