As all eyes are on Vanity Fair’s first-ever New Establishment Summit this week, we recall the first-ever New Establishment list, which debuted 20 years ago this fall. That’s right, 1994, the year of Friends, O.J. Simpson’s white Bronco chase, and Netscape (cue the staticky, ringing dial-up symphony).

To accompany the inaugural rankings of the influencing elite, Annie Leibovitz photographed the reigning mavericks at Herb Allen’s venerated Sun Valley conference. Bill Gates (who is also featured in this month’s issue), Silicon Valley–studded symposiums, and denim on denim—some things never change.

Follow Vanity Fair’s New Establishment Summit live here.