We continue our Greek odyssey with one of the dishes that is often considered as the national dish of Greece, or at least one of them: moussaka.
What is moussaka?
Moussaka is an eggplant-and/or potato-based casserole dish, that traditionally also includes ground meat, that is popular in the cuisine of the Levant, Middle East, and Balkans.
What is the origin of moussaka?
Indeed, along with traditional recipes like Greek salad, fasolada or pastitsio, moussaka is known all over the world as the quintessential Greek dish.
What is rather ironic, is that this iconic hearty main dish composed of layers of fried eggplants, saucy ground meat and topped with Béchamel sauce, was only introduced in the twentieth century, much like now world famous dishes such as pad thai or Vietnamese pho. Also, the origins of the dish itself and its main ingredients do not really point to Greece!
Starting with eggplant! There are numerous Arabic and North African names for eggplant, but there is none tracing back to ancient Greek or Roman names. The vegetable was actually introduced throughout the Mediterranean region by the Arabs in the early Middle Ages.
Moussaka really originated in the Balkans and the Middle East although the most famous version is now undeniably the Greek version. It is a regional dish prepared and enjoyed in Turkey, Bosnia, Bulgaria, Macedonia, Serbia and Romania.
Food historians say the dish could come from the Arabian dish maghmuma or musakhkhan, a very similar dish that appeared in a thirteenth century Arabic cookbook called Kitab al-Tabikh (The Book of Dishes).
There are also similarities with musakhan (Arabic: مسخّن), a Palestinian dish composed of roasted chicken baked with onions, sumac, allspice, saffron, and fried pine nuts that is served over taboon bread.
This dish is also known as muhammar (Arabic: محمر) in some countries. The term musakhan literally means “something that is heated.”
The Lebanese version of moussaka, called moussaka’a or maghmour, is essentially a vegetarian dish composed of eggplant, chickpeas, potatoes, tomato sauce and spices (cumin, garlic, black pepper) that is served hot and accompanied by couscous. The Arabic root of the word moussaka’a (saqqa’a) can also be translated to “chilled” or “cool”.
The versions closest to the Greek moussaka recipe that we are talking about today are the Turkish and Bulgarian moussaka recipes.
Turkish musakka, unlike the Greek version, is not layered. Instead, it is prepared with sautéed eggplants, green peppers, tomatoes, onions, and minced meat. It is traditionally served with pilaf.
The Bulgarian version of the moussaka recipe uses potatoes instead of eggplants and ground pork in place of lamb or beef.
The Greeks, like the Bulgarians and Romanians, prepare moussaka as a layered baked dish. Some top it with a traditional Béchamel sauce, while others make an olive oil or yogurt based Béchamel sauce.
Whole eggs or egg yolks can be added to the sauce to firm it up for a richer end result. Greek cheese kefalotyri is sometimes melted into the sauce and even sprinkled on top.
Tselementes and the birth of Greek moussaka
The Greek version of moussaka as we know it today was introduced by Nikolaos Tselementes only about a century ago.
Tselementes was a Greek chef who had worked in such places as the St. Moritz Hotel in New York and the Sacher Hotel in Vienna. Yes, the same Sacher hotel I visited with the family back in May and that I talked about when I made Sachertorte.
In 1920, Tselementes published a compilation of all kinds of recipes (French, Italian, American) together with Greek recipes that he considered important in his very influential book Cooking and Patisserie Guide. The book also included chapters on how to serve and present food or how to dress maids.
That book had an enormous impact on the rising Athenian middle and upper classes, and to this day “Tselementes” is synonymous with cookbook for most Greeks. His beliefs about what is right and what is wrong influenced not just home cooking but also professional cooks, as he was the principal teacher to all the important schools of cooking.
He revised many Greek recipes, trying to adapt them to classic French cuisine. He was a strong believer that European cooking had its origins tracing back ancient Greece.
He thought that Greek cuisine had become too easternized under Ottoman rule, and he was determined to correct this.
There is a whole chapter on moussaka recipes in Tselementes’ book. This chapter includes six different recipes, basically substituting zucchini, artichokes, or potatoes for the eggplants.
Tselementes did not like greasy and spicy food. He also hated garlic and cucumber. I am so curious to find out what his recipe was for tsatziki without those two key ingredients! He wanted to reclaim “greekiness” of Greek cuisine. That is how he introduced Béchamel sauce to recipes like moussaka or pastitsio.
How to make moussaka
Moussaka is not a dish that you prepare in less than 30 minutes. This eggplant moussaka is definitely a festive dish and not an everyday meal. It is part of what Greeks call “urban Greek cuisine”.
Moussaka is traditionally made with lamb or a mixture of lamb and beef, although more modern versions use only beef. I personally opted for the beef version. Like most traditional dishes, there is not just one recipe for moussaka. There is even a vegetarian moussaka version for Lent.
One ingredient which you should find in an authentic and traditional moussaka is obviously eggplant, although other versions include potato, zucchini or even artichoke. I opted for a hearty winter version with both eggplant and potato.
I prepared moussaka quite a few times in the past, but one ingredient I had never used was red wine. Simmering ground meat in red wine really gives the moussaka filling a delicious earthy and rustic flavor. Trust me, I won’t miss this key ingredient in the future.
“I cook with wine, sometimes I even add it to the food”, W.C. Fields
If you are thinking about already breaking your new year resolutions, you might as well do it in style. Moussaka is not a recipe for the faint of heart. All the ingredients, including eggplants, potatoes and meat sauce, are fried or sautéed in olive oil separately, before being layered in a baking dish and topped with a very rich Béchamel sauce.
Enough to make you feel guilty at every single bite… I personally didn’t feel guilty a bit and enjoyed every single indulging bite. If you are trying to stick to your new year resolutions though, you can make a healthier version of this moussaka recipe by lightly spraying the eggplants and potatoes with olive oil, and baking them instead of frying them.
As with most casserole dishes, stew or other comfort food, this Greek moussaka is even better the next day as all the flavors have time to meld. The moussaka recipe was a hit at home. Good thing as I made enough of this Greek eggplant dish to feed an army and we enjoyed it throughout the weekend!
Moussaka
Ingredients
- 1½ lb ground beef (or ground lamb)
- 4 potatoes
- 2 eggplants
- 2 onions , diced
- 1½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 tablespoons tomato paste
- 2 cloves garlic , crushed
- ½ cup red wine
- ½ bunch parsley , finely chopped
- Salt
- Pepper
For the White Sauce (Béchamel Sauce)
- 4 cups milk
- 1 cup flour
- ½ cup butter
- 2 egg yolks
- ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
- Salt
- Pepper
Instructions
- Peel potatoes and cut them into ¼ inch (5mm) slices.
- Slice off stalk and bottom ends of eggplant. Cut them lengthwise into ¼ inch (5mm) slices.
- Place eggplant slices in a large bowl filled with salty water and leave to soak for 30 minutes, then remove eggplant from water and leave to dry well on paper towel.
- Over medium heat, add ¼ cup (100ml) of olive oil to a large frying pan and fry the sliced potato in batches. Make sure to turn them over to cook both sides. The potato slices should be fried until slightly soft, about 4-5 minutes on each side.
- When the potato slices are cooked, remove from the hot oil and place them on paper towels.
- In the same frying pan, add ¼ cup (100ml) of olive oil and over a medium heat, start frying the eggplant slices in batches, adding olive oil regularly.
- Remove each batch from the hot oil and place them on spread paper towels.
- In the same pan, add ¼ cup (100ml) oil and sauté the diced onion until translucent. Add ground meat to the onions in the frying pan and mix well to break up the meat.
- Stir meat continuously over medium-high heat for 10 minutes.
- Add red wine, garlic, parsley, salt and pepper to the pan and stir well to mix.
- Dilute tomato paste in ½ cup (100ml) of water and add to pan.
- Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer uncovered for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until liquid is entirely reduced.
- Grease the sides and bottoms of a baking pan with olive oil.
- Cover the bottom completely with a layer of potato slices by overlapping where necessary to ensure a complete covering. Cover with a layer of eggplant slices.
- Spoon out a little more than half of the meat mixture and spread to cover the bottom layers evenly.
- Cover meat layer with remaining potato slices, then cover completely with another layer of eggplant slices, overlapping as necessary to ensure complete coverage.
- Spread remaining meat mixture out evenly to cover the eggplant layer. Using a spatula, press down gently on the layers to compact them.
White Sauce
- Melt butter in a medium sized saucepan over a medium-low heat.
- When butter is melted, thoroughly incorporate the flour in stages using a whisk and continuously stirring for about 5 minutes.
- Once the flour is fully incorporated, gradually add the 4 cups (1l) of milk while stirring continuously. Turn up the heat slightly to bring the thick sauce to a boil and then remove the saucepan from the heat.
- Add nutmeg, salt and pepper and mix sauce well.
- Add egg yolks slowly to the sauce, making sure to combine well.
- Pour a thick layer of white sauce into baking pan to completely cover the top meat sauce layer. Spread white sauce evenly to ensure a uniform surface.
- Place baking pan into an oven preheated to 350F/80C, and bake for 40 minutes or until the top is nicely browned.
Video
Mike is “the devil” of the 196 flavors’ duo. Nicknamed as such by his friends, he is constantly in search of unusual recipes and techniques with impossible to find ingredients. The devil is always pushing the envelope, whether it is with humor or culinary surprises.
theoldfatguy says
I’ve always like Moussaka but have never made it myself. Thanks for posting this.
The Old Fat Guy
Mike Benayoun says
You’ve got to try to make it. It is rather long but also quite easy.
Signed: Mike aka the other “old fat guy” 😉
TimedEating says
Lovely post and recipe – really like seeing all the different versions of Moussaka you’ve referenced! I recently started making a bit of a riff on Moussaka where you change the spicing a bit and subsititute a tahini crust for the becahmel sauce – though I go a little rogue and throw in some shiitake mushrooms as well. In any case – really enjoyed reading your blog and I’ll be back 🙂
Here’s the recipe for the tahini crusted moussake if you’re interested! – http://timedeating.co.uk/the-lighter-middle-eastern-cottage-pie-spiced-beef-aubergine-and-a-tahini-crust/
Mike Benayoun says
Thanks a lot! Tahini crust? That is VERY interesting indeed. I never had tahini other than as a cold condiment/appetizer. Thanks for sharing, Matt!
Thalia says
If you were going to bake the eggplant and potatoes, how long/how high would you put them in?
Mike Benayoun says
Hey Thalia, I would probably cook the eggplant (1/4 inch slices) for 30 minutes and the potatoes for slightly longer, in a 350 F oven. Let me know if it works.
Mary says
I boil the potatoes first with skin on and layer. I also either grill or broil the olive oil tossed eggplant slices after a 30 minute salt bath/dry. Then I layer like so…olive oil coat, potatoes, grilled eggplant, meat sauce, bechamel ( with Parmesan Cheese), repeat one more time…top with bechamel and sprinkle with more parm cheese.
Bake for 60 minutes….
Mike Benayoun says
Thanks a lot for the instructions Mary 😉
Peter says
Try to add minced cinnamon into the meat sauce. Greek moussaka should include cinnamon.
Alejandra says
Amen to that, it’s most definitely not an authentic Greek moussaka without the cinnamon! It sounds weird to add it to meat sauce but I promise that it will taste amazing. Just add 1 tablespoon of minced cinnamon together with the wine and garlic and you will smell the magic immediately.
Cyril says
Thanks , so the eggplant must be steamed first ?
Mike Benayoun says
Nope, just soaked
Lisa says
This is not moussaka !!!!!! A completely non version of it – It has no herbs or spices – definitely cumin and cinnamon and oregano and thyme they give the unique flavour and soften take away from the fat that’s in the lamb …
Jen says
So mine is baking as I’m typing this comment, love this dish I hope that it turns out nice!
Debbie says
This makes enough for 10 servings. Could this be cooled then frozen into individual single servings? Thanks.
Mike Benayoun says
Absolutely yes Debbie! Just reheat the servings in the oven at about 250F for 20-30 minutes, after they are thawed.
Debbie says
Thank you. I know an elderly gentleman who is from Greece and he’s been hinting for me to make him some Greek food. So I thought I could make this and give him a few servings to freeze also for reheating later.
Sheri says
I’m not a wine drinker. What kind of wine. Or is there a substitute?
Alisha says
Definitely not a recipe to make in a hurry, but it was honestly worth it. The whole family loved it, especially the next day. Thanks for this wonderful moussaka recipe!
VickyVP says
Thank you for this recipe, I served it to my Bulgarian friends along with Bulgarian Yogurt and they loved it. They said the recipe was the best Moussaka that they’ve ever had! Also served it with pumpkin Banitza (for dessert) – thank you for the recipe!
Mike Benayoun says
You’re welcome Vicky. Glad it was a success! Happy New Year!
chrisa says
My mom topped her Mousaka with a cream of wheat sauce. I don’t know her exact recipe but mine tastes very close to hers. I use 4 cups of milk 3/4 cup cream of wheat wich is semolina a bit of butter once the sauce thickens I temper 3 whole eggs
in it add some Romano cheese (to your discretion) Once I’ve spread it over the dish I then sprinkle cinnamon and some more Romano cheese. Preferably kefalotiri should be used. Romano is a good substitute. In my meat sauce I like to use good guality Retsina (Greek wine wich has a particular flavour resembling that of pine nuts) difficult to find I use beer or white or red wine will do the job and I definetly use cinnamon and cloves ground or whole. Hope you try this version . Kali Orexi
Chrisa
Mike Benayoun says
Thank you so much for sharing your recipe and mother’s recipe with us, Chrisa. Really appreciated. Kali orexi 😉
Kristen McFarland says
I assume the baking pan is a 9×13?
Mike Benayoun says
Good guess, Kristen.