This article originally appeared in the February 2017 issue of ELLE.

Before Vernon François was sculpting and smoothing a certain Oscar-winning actress's hair into dazzling configurations for the red carpet, he practiced on a much less demanding client: "As a child, I taught myself how to braid with the fringes of a rug," says the British stylist and colorist. François assisted at a London salon when he was 14 years old, "washing hair…washing windows," and worked his way up, ultimately winning industry awards, earning a reputation as a master of natural textures, and amassing a serious crew of leading ladies that includes the impervious-to-bad-hair-days Kerry Washington and Tracee Ellis Ross. Now, with his most recent endeavor, an ultraluxe hair-care line with product names like Pure~Fro Conditioner, he's revolutionizing the market and making curly hair great—that is, silky, beautifully hydrated, and strong—again.

What are your tips for washing curls, which are more fragile and drier than straight hair?

Like all textures, curls should be managed more sensitively when they're wet. Detangle with your fingers instead of a comb. It's case by case how often hair should be washed: For wavy, maybe two times a week. Kinky, once a week with a co-wash, which is great for keeping natural moisture; every now and again, switch that up with shampoo. All hair needs to be shampooed to remove scalp buildup. Then, instead of drying hair with a normal towel, invest in a micro-cotton fiber one—or just use a worn cotton T-shirt. Both reduce friction on hair and reduce breakage.

How do you change up supercropped hair?

Simply adding a part—start it directly above the highest point of your brow arch—can be quite dramatic. Pulling hair taut away from your face emphasizes features. Use your fingertips to pull out and enhance your texture at the back with a little serum.

What makes your line especially effective for natural textures?

It's a myth that the thicker a product feels, the better it's going to be. My formulas are lightweight but incredibly hydrating. The conditioners are in spray bottles, which allows for more control. With a pump, we tend to use larger amounts of conditioner and oversaturate the hair, which makes it feel great for two days but then can dry it out, since residue remains on the hair and prevents the good stuff from getting through to do its work.

Any guidelines for bleaching black hair?

Limit how often you do it. Peroxide is harsh, but it comes in different strengths. With a 3 percent [strength], you might need two applications, but you'll have more control over the color lift. Nourishing hair afterward is important. Mix Jamaican black castor oil, jojoba oil, and argan oil in a spray bottle, then dilute it with some water to hydrate hair without wetting it.

Yea or nay to the appropriation of culturally ethnic styles by those with nonethnic hair?

I don't know one magazine you could pick up today without a European girl with frizzed-out hair. There have been plenty of [fashion] shows that use locs and braids; there doesn't have to be a negative connotation to it.

What's your mission as a hairstylist?

There's a quote I live by, which says essentially that in life, you may forget who you are, where you come from, and what your name is, but you never forget how someone makes you feel. I know what it's like to not fit in. I have natural ginger hair; I'm dyslexic. When a client sits in my chair, I want her to feel her best.

THE RESCUERS

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1. François fortifies blow-outs with Kevin Murphy Body.Builder Volumising Mousse ($43.98, amazon.com), a blend of radiance-bestowing citrus oils.

2. A quick blast of Sebastian Shaper Plus Extra Hold Hairspray ($18.95, ulta.com) keeps an updo intact.

3. Antioxidant-rich castor oil in Philip Kingsley Elasticizer Pre Shampoo Treatment ($51, philipkingsley.com) makes it "perfect for repairing hair's structure," François says.

4. "It's weightless and filled with delicate, shimmering particles for an extra shine boost," he says of his Vernon François Dazz~ling Spritz Shine Spray ($24, net-a-porter.com).

5. Antibacterial olive oil in Vernon François Pure~Fro Conditioner ($33, net-a-porter.com) protects sensitive scalps while flooding the cuticle with moisture.