Top
Dodge Challenger
Tips & Tricks
2008 - 2014
Web page created
07/17/09
Last updated 08/23/2014
(c) 2009-2014 M. W. Davis
Some or many of
these tips and tricks you may already know of, some you would never have
discovered.
Some info listed in the
information following is in fact in the 2008
- 2014 Challenger's Owner's Manuals, -but-
for some reason many people just cannot find it. Some of the information is specific for the
R/T or SRT8 model or universal across the Dodge LC and/or LX platform.
Depending on EVIC (CNN) software versions some of
the EVIC tips work, some don’t but there is a variety of different ones to try
on your model year vehicle.
This list will be expanded as
time goes by and I compile collected information or folks pass tips onto
me.
Also included below are some frequently asked questions on our
Challengers and very good and hard to find documentation.
I also have now listed the
compilation into categories and sub-category listings to aid in helping
structure this growing list.
If you have a tip, see a typo or have
updated information, send me an email
via the Webmaster link at the bottom of this page.
This page is currently a free to all late model Challenger
Owners and enthusiasts.
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"search" this document using a keyword or phrase, use your CTRL-F (Search/Find) feature in FireFox or
Internet Explorer browser(s).
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something really useful on here?
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Web
Layout - Copyright (c) 2009-2014 Marvin Davis
Here are
the current following general "main" categories for listed
information;
5. Engine |
|
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|
10. Misc., Aftermarket & Catalog Items |
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Categories;
(1)
Vehicle
Quick Reference; Diagnostics and related;
Tip:1 How to Display/Decode Diagnostic Trouble
Codes
Tip:3 Extended EVIC Menu Access
Tip:4 Enable/Disable Economy Mode Display
Tip:7 Odometer Stick Pin Button Options
Tip:19 EVIC Compass Calibration
Tip:12 Disable
Seat Belt Reminder
Tip:15 ESP and Cruise Control
Tip:17 Cruise Control Operations
Tip:21 Turn
Signal Bulbs Out Warning
Tip:24 Dash and Panel Lights Parade Mode (and
other dimmer features)
Tip:25 Top Speed Display on the R/T
Tip:26 Turn Signal Warning
Tip:27 Door Lock Modes
Tip:30 Extended EVIC trip pin trick
Tip:31 Keyless Entry Start and CEL
Tip:33
Tip:34 Odometer Trip button on non EVIC
Tip:38 Reset
the "Oil Change Required" message in the EVIC:
Tip:39 Resetting NGC (PCM) Driver Fuel
Adaptive’s
Tip:51 Event Data Recorder (EDR):
What you need to know!
Tip:84 Speedometer
Verification (Extended EVIC)
Tip:86 Dodge Challenger Instrument Cluster
"Self Test" Procedure
Tip:91 Battery
Reconnection Procedure (reset DDM, PDM, & SCM's)
Tip:95 Remote Start Function Inhibitors!
Tip:121 Transmission
Control Module (TCM) - Limp Mode(s)
Tip:148 Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC)
Tip:164
Emergency or Valet
key use and VTSS
Tip:208 Keyless Entry System Exposed
Tip:211
Performance "Chip" Scams and Consumer Fraud
Tip:216 Option Codes/Build Sheet for your Challenger
Tip:219 VEHICLE STORAGE
Documents - Manuals,
Dealer Brochures, Sales Documents, etc.
Tip:23 Free Dodge Owners
Manuals
Tip:57 Documents - Owner's
Manuals, Service Manuals, Dealer/Sales Documents, etc.
Tip:71 TSB, RRT and RECALL’s
(General terminology)
Tip:78 DODGE
Acronyms Decrypted
Tip:96 What
does the term FOB, KEYFOB or FOBIK mean?
Tip:102 2009 Dodge Challenger Final Sales Figures
Tip:153 Dodge Challenger TSB, RRT and Safety Recall
List
Tip:171
NHTSA Door Safety
Label Info (FMVSS)
Tip:174 NHTSA
complaints for Dodge Challenger
Fluid Specifications
Tip:47
HOAT & OAT Engine Coolants!
Tip:54
Challenger Fluid Capacities - SPECIFICATIONS
Tip:185 Rear End Lubrication/Service Interval
Fuse Locations and
Types
Tip:55
R/T and
Hoisting and Jacking Warnings
Tip:53 HOISTING: Challenger
Lift Points, Proper-Safe Hoisting
Jump Starting
Tip:52
Jump
starting Challenger - How To and Warnings
Vehicle
Information, VIN decode, etc.
Tip:97 VIN PLATE DECODER
Tip:83 Vehicle Build Date
Tip:104 Dodge
Challenger Parts Manuals 2008 - 2011
Tip:149 International Control and Display Symbols
(Chrysler/Dodge)
Tip:189 Dodge Challenger Body
Repair Manual
Tip:2 Start Pushbutton Removal
Tip:5 Wipers - QuikWipe
Tip:6 Quick Lane Change
Tip:8 Headlight Flasher
Tip:10 DRL’s for Safety (Daytime
Running Lights)
Tip:20 Watching EVIC while fueling
Tip:21 Turn Signal Bulbs Out
Warning
Tip:22 Trunk OPEN operations
Tip:24 Dash and Panel Lights Parade Mode (and
other dimmer features)
Tip:25 Top Speed Display on the R/T
Tip:28 Disable ESP/Traction in R/T
Tip:29 R/T and SE ESP "Key
Tricks"
Tip:37 Windows "Express Down" using FOBIK.
Tip:41 DRL’s on CHALLENGER: How to ACTIVATE
Tip:44 Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS) Tip
Tip:46 Smart
Window Recalibration Procedure
Tip:49
Key FOB?
Tip:50
Automatic Unlock Doors on Exit Programming
Tip:52 Jump starting Challenger
- How To and Warnings
Tip:55 R/T and
Tip:58 2010 Owner's Manual
Addendum/Radio Fuse
Tip:61 Challenger HORN operations
Tip:63 Headlights On with Wipers (Available Auto Headlights Only)
Tip:64 IPOD Integration cable
goes where?
Tip:70 Locking Challenger without
enabling VTSS (Alarm)
Tip:80 How to Adjust When Auto HID Headlights Turn
On
Tip:85 PCM
SETTINGS KEEPER
Tip:88 Mopar
Electrical Connectors and Repair Kits site
Tip:89 Dodge
Challenger CAN BUS Databus Communications Modules
Tip:94 Challenger Replacement Light Bulbs
Tip:106 HomeLink Wireless Control System
Tip:107
FOBIK (Key
Fob) Repair and erratic
operations
Tip:114 Personalize U-connect
Tip:117 KeylessGo and Keeloq Encryption/Cipher
Tip:118 Power Top Sunroof - Operations and Calibration
Tip:120 EVIC Chime Stack
Tip:123 KeyLess Go
Ignition/Pushbutton functions
Tip:126 FOBIK "TRAPPED" IN WIN (Wireless Ignition Node)
Tip:128 Dash Power Plug Modification
Tip:133 Challenger CHIME WARNING SYSTEM
Tip:142 Keyless Go Button (Tech Tip & Operation Info)
Tip:143 How to Adjust When Auto HID Headlights turn on
Tip:145 USB power
adapter/charger via Cigarette lighter plug
Tip:152 Dual
Tip:156 Battery Maintenance and short/Long term
vehicle storage
Tip:162 FOBIK and PEM Radio Frequencies
Tip:165 PDC -
Ignition Off Draw Fuse and usage
Tip:168 Low Fuel
Indicator Light
Tip:172 New
"Passive Entry" addition to Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) features for
2011
Tip:175 Steering Control Module (SCM)
Tip:177 ESP and Electronic Stability Program FAQ’s
Tip:191 How to wire AUTO ON
heated seats when remote started
Tip:201 Is it
possible to add the KeyLess GO System to an R/T?
Tip:204 FOBIK (Key Fob) disassembly, battery change.
Tip:208 Keyless Entry System Exposed
Tip:209 Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS) will not reset when activated?
Tip:213 Removal
of Center Tail Light
Tip:217 Electrical wiring diagrams and wire colors
Tip:220 Aftermarket Remote Start System
Tip:221 Blinking
Defrost Light Possible Fix
Tip:222 3157 vs 3157CK bulb
and socket
Tip:227 Battery Removal
Tip:228 Isolation
of parasitic battery drain or (IOD) procedure
(3)
MyGig and NAV/RBZ Radio related;
Tip:18 NAV Unit destination tip
Tip:48 Radio
Identification Codes and Single or 6 Disc CD Player?
Tip:58 2010 Owner's Manual
Addendum/Radio Fuse
Tip:87 MyGig Nav Voice System Tip
Tip:90 The Official and Unofficial MyGIG Information and Support
Site's
Tip:130 Stuck CD in MyGig Multidisc
player?
Tip:186 RBZ
Radio loading multiple CD's issue and GraceNotes
Tip:187 MyGig NAV Screen "AutoMode"
(4)
Exterior;
Tip:13 Ditch that Hood Prop Rod!
Tip:11 Fuel Cap Hanger and Low Fuel Warning
Tip:62 Locking GAS Cap
Tip:66 Functional Factory Hood Scoops
for R/T’s
Tip:67 Challenger Splash Guards
Tip:68 Where to Find Your Vehicle
Manufacture Date
Tip:77 How can I remove
the factory stripes on my R/T?
Tip:82 2009
Dodge Challenger R/T: Suspension Article (Edmunds)
Tip:103 Washing and Draining Water
from Door Mirrors
Tip:116 R/T and
SRT front chin spoiler replacement
Tip:127 Push/Pop Pins, Plastic Rivets and Clip Replacements!
Tip:154 Installing Wing Spoiler on Dodge Challenger
Tip:160 Rams Head front
hood badge removal and replacement
Tip:163 Dodge Challenger
OEM touch up paint(s)
Tip:184 Center Taillight Assembly Removal
Tip:189 Dodge Challenger Body Repair Manual
Tip:202 Rear Taillight bulb replacement procedures
Tip:215 Restoring
Black Plastic/Vinyl Trim
Tip:223 Challenger windows freezing up in winter.
Tip:224 Classic Challenger Script Grill Emblem
(5)
Engine;
Tip:9 Factory Oil Filter Installation
Tip:39 Resetting NGC (PCM) Driver Fuel
Adaptive’s
Tip:43 ETC Throttle Calibration/Characterization
Tip:45 MDS
Reset & Calibration
Tip:47
HOAT Engine Coolant!
Tip:54
Challenger Fluid Capacities - SPECIFICATIONS
Tip:69
Challenger Spark Plug Info!
Tip:75 Temperature
Sensor Support on HEMI Engine
Tip:79 What is the Best Oil Filter for our
Challenger?
Tip:98 Cooling Flow - 5.7L/6.1L HEMI Engines
Tip:108 The PCM - PowerTrain Control Module
Tip:119 TORQUE SPEC - Engine 5.7L and 6.1L
Tip:122 PCM MONITORED COMPONENT
Tip:125 Oil Change Required Light
and how it works
Tip:134 EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM INTEGRITY MONITOR (ESIM)
Tip:141 Fumoto Oil
Drain Valve on Dodge Challenger
Tip:155 Dyno and other
speed/gear related software
Tip:158 FilterMag,
Trans Pan Mag and Magnetic Oil Plug systems
Tip:159 EFI: Mass Flow vs. Speed Density (Fuel/Air
Management)
Tip:166
Fuel System, Fuel Pump
Module
Tip:167
Fuel Correction or
PCM adaptive Memories
Tip:169
Modes of Operation
for the NGC (PCM)
Tip:178 ETC - Electronic Throttle Control
Tip:182 Copper Spark Plugs vs. Iridium and Platinum:
Tip:193 Oil fill and overflow warning!
Tip:206
Possible fuel/saddle tank level issue?
Tip:207 Throttle Body, maintenance and cleaning
issues.
Tip:212
Sensors, Gas Engine, location and part numbers
(6)
Interior
and related;
Tip:14 Extending
Sun Visor
Tip:16 Trinket Tray Removal
Tip:32 Center Console Lid Trick
Tip:35 Air Conditioner.
Tip:36 Sun Roof Open Modes
Tip:42 Adding Cabin Air Filter
Tip:48 Radio
Identification Codes and Single or 6 Disc CD Player?
Tip:65
HOT SURFACE WARNING - Under dash!
Tip:111 Push
Button Start Overlay Trim
Tip:112 Electro Chromatic Mirror disable on Reverse
feature
Tip:115 Rear Fold-down center arm rest removal
Tip:135 Challenger Trunk Cargo Net Mod
Tip:136 The
Custom Ultraviolet Sunshield
Tip:137 Change your
steering wheel badge!
Tip:138 Courtesy Light Wiring Information (Interior Lighting Mod)
Tip:150 Door Panel Removal
procedure
Tip:157 Removal of CHMSL (center high mounted stop
Light) or 3rd brake light.
Tip:161 Moldy looking Dash in cold weather?!
Tip:170
Gauge Cluster
Removal and Custom Installations.
Tip:173
Installing Radar
Detector using Mirror Power for no-clutter wiring.
Tip:181 Emergency Brake - Matching Pedal Cover!
Tip:190 Dodge Challenger Custom Leather
Interior Upholstery Upgrade kit
Tip:196 BLUE LED Foot well Lighting
Tip:205 Custom Embroidered Headrests, etc.
Tip:210 Remove Glove Box bin to access PEM module
Tip:214 High quality interior dash kits
Tip:225 30
Minute dash Removal
Tip:226 REAR
SEAT REMOVAL
(7) Products &
Uses;
Tip:73 FREE
MOPAR Desktop Screensavers!
Tip:74 Great Challenger Clothing, Jackets, Hats, Tee shirts,
Gifts and much more!
Tip:81 Wireless USB Dodge Challenger Computer Mouse!
Tip:220 Aftermarket Remote Start System
Tip:223 Challenger windows freezing up in winter.
(8)
Wheels, Tires, and Suspension;
Tip:40 Centering Steering Wheel: AKA: SAS Calibration. (steering Angle
Sensor)
Tip:56 TPMS TIPS: Tire Pressure
Monitoring System FAQ’s
Tip:72 TPMS and Setting proper tire air pressures
(cold)
Tip:76 Challenger SRT and RT Wheel Lug Info
Tip:92 Challenger Spare Tire(s) and SRT Adaptor/Spacer
Tip:101 Brake Repair
on Challenger/Charger
Tip:113 Tire Tech
Information - Calculating and Reading Tire Sizes/Dimensions
Tip:144 Changing brake pads on Dodge Challenger
Tip 183 Dreaded Front Suspension Pop!
Tip:194 SRT Front Springs on R/T
Tip:195 Hotchkis 22107 - Hotchkis Performance Sway Bar Kit
Tip:203 Installing larger rear rubber on your R/T!
Tip:59 NAG1 Dipstick and Transmission
Level Checking (AUTO)
Tip:60 SKIPSHIFT:
Modification to eliminate 1-4 shifting (Manual).
Tip:99 NAGI Automatic Transmission, Description and
Detail.
Tip:109 The TCM - Transmission
Control Module (Detail)
Tip:110 The T-Handle
Shifter Upgrade for Challenger (Auto)
Tip:121 Transmission Control Module (TCM) - Limp
Mode(s)
Tip:124 TCM Adaptation - NAG1 Only
Tip:129 NAG1 Automatic Transmission Fill
Tip:139 Manual 6-speed
transmission drain and refill (TR6060)
Tip:140 Manual Gear Shift
Tip(s)
Tip:146 Rear
End Service/Lubrication RT/SRT
Tip:147 Automatic
Transmission (NAG1) Cooling bypass valve
Tip:151 Autostick mode
turns off MDS.
Tip:179 WA580 (NAG1) Automatic Maintenance and Mercedes Parts
Tip:180 MOPAR Performance MTCM - vs- Stock TCM and
warnings;
Tip:188 New Product: High
Performance NAG1 Transmission Kit
(10)
Misc. , Aftermarket and Catalog items;
Tip:93 Help on Sticking/Freezing Windows and Door Seals!
Tip:100 BMC BILLET CATCH-CAN DRAIN COCK MODIFICATION
Tip:105 Dodge
Challenger Accessories – Genuine MOPAR Catalog
Tip:131 Custom FOBIK covers
Tip:132 Uconnect Phone Compatibility
List
Tip:176 Front
Clip Removal for Black Chrome Grill Mod
Tip:192 What is
MOPAR?
Tip:211
Performance "Chip" Scams and Consumer Fraud
Tip:218 Dodge Challenger Uconnect
Internet (WiFi) for Vehicle
Tip:220 Aftermarket Remote Start System
(11)
Video
Documentary, etc.;
Tip:197 National Geographic Channel Dodge Challenger MegaFactory Documentary
Tip:198 Dodge Challenger (Classic) Freedom
Commercial and its making
Tip:199 Dodge Channels Challenger Keyless Enter-N-Go
Video Documentary
Tip:200 Dodge Channels Dodge Challenger HomeLink System Documentary
Challenger
Tips listed in numeric order below;
Tip:1
How to Display and
Decode Diagnostic Trouble Codes:
How to
Display OBD-II Trouble Codes On Instrument Cluster
(Works with or without EVIC).
1.
Get in the car, close the door.
Perform steps 2-6 fairly quickly (less than 3
sec's total time).
(The key should not return to the OFF
position through this next sequence!)
2. Turn key to 'ON' position
3. then back to 'ACC'
4. then to 'ON'
5. then back to 'ACC'
6. then to 'ON'
If there are any stored codes, they will appear immediately, in place of the
odometer.
For instance an "INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT HIGH" error
will set a generic code of P0113.
Many guys forget to hook their IAT sensor up after they install a
new intake filter system and crank the engine.
A CEL on the dash instrument display will immediately result.
Once the codes have been displayed, you'll see "-----". If there are no trouble codes, the dashes will
be the first item displayed.
After a few seconds, the display changes to "-dOnE-".
Once
you have recorded the DTC (diagnostic trouble code), use the chart below to
decode:
The DTC code is made up of 5 digits.
The figure below maps the structure or composition of
a DTC. With this information it is little easier to troubleshoot a DTC without
knowing the exact description of the actual code.
Important Note!
Generic OBD-II
codes start with P0xxx.
OEM MFG
DTC Codes start with P1xxx.
Keep in
mind that CEL (Check Engine Light) status is for Powertrain
(Engine/Transmission) and is primarily for EMISSIONS status functions.
Thus when getting a "Check Engine Light" on the dash, this means
engine is out of emissions compliance or an important sensor is out of range or
has a malfunction.
NOTE----> Leading LETTER indicator on DTC coding
meaning;
P = Powertrain
B
= Body
C
= Chassis
U
= is a communication/Network fault
For
those who do not understand or need "ODB-II" explained further, here
is a great link to aid in understanding modern day emissions code standard as
required
by
Federal Law for all automobiles built or imported into the United States;
What is OBD-II?
http://www.obdii.com/background.html
And, here is a link to all standard generic OBD-II DTC codes: http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/
IMPORTANT NOTE: DTC Codes that start with P1xxx are not generic and are
specific to OEM Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep vehicles.
Complete
listings of all Dodge OEM mfg DTC codes for late model vehicles are listed at
these links below:
http://www.allpar.com/fix/computer-codes.html
http://www.engine-light-help.com/dodge-check-engine-light.html
http://www.hsperformance.com/?p=2070
Dodge Engine Light
Questions And Answers website!
http://www.engine-light-help.com/dodge-check-engine-light.html
Use
link below for more detailed information, latest OBD updates, OEM information,
recent Dodge OBD-II Topic Forum and much more.
Start Pushbutton Removal
The push button "Start Button" cap cover can be easily removed with
your fingers by using a fingernail (or key in FOBIK) under the bottom
(6-o'clock) and pulling the button towards yourself. The FOBIK can then be inserted
into the opening and used like a standard to start in the car by turning it to
the right noting the switch positions.
This can be used in the case of a "key fob not detected"
message or a "push button start" failure.
NOTE:
The battery in the FOBIK can be completely DEAD and the WIN
ignition module will power the FOBIK when inserted.
The key positions are;
1. Lock
2. Accessory ON
3. Ignition ON
4. Start Engine
Technically, you can still use the "push button" start with
the button cover removed if you have slender fingers.
I teased my wife early on after my Challenger purchase by saying the car was
programmed to only recognize me and I stuck my little finger into the push
button hole with the cover removed which allowed me to press the inside of the
WIN assembly simulating the start button and started up the car. I pull my finger out and showed her my pinky
and said, "see the car only recognizes me!". Of course she looked puzzled for a second or
two then read my eyes and called "BS" on me...
The WIN
(Wireless Ignition Node) is shown and explained in the Challenger Owner's
Manual.
For 2009 R/T it is in the section on "Things to know before
starting your vehicle", page 12.
This tip is also documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual
[ pg.246 ]
Extended EVIC Menu Access
If you have the
Q: What does the
"compass" button look like?
I have a 2010 R/T 28M package with Uconnect/iPod
(I think its sound group I or II) and don't have a button with
a "compass symbol" on it.
A: Yours may have the
"Home" button. This was a
running change in the production model 2010's - some model's had
the compass button while others got
the home button that has the house icon instead.
There are many other EVIC tips and tricks described in this document (Example Tip:75 , Tip:84, Tip:120, etc.)
that reference to or contain more information about features in EVIC. Search this document for "EVIC"
related items!
EVIC
and Radio Steering Wheel controls;
If
a set up on the EVIC is showing an extended menu screen (ex: Digital Tach and Speed) and is left this way, the steering wheel
buttons controlling the Radio will not work.
Hit the home button to clear EVIC secondary menu settings and the Radio
controls will work again.
Note:
It's not wise to start changing things unless you're confident
that you know exactly what you are doing or trying to accomplish.
To get back to the normal EVIC display operation, press the COMPASS
(or Home) button once again.
Here is
a youtube video describing and showing extended menu
access for 0-60 mph/sec timer;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45IdnQK9uy0
Note:
2011-2012
Model Challenger (EVIC Screen) access. How to enter the
extended EVIC screen ( Easter Eggs) on a 2011-12 Challenger.
Have the ignition on, vehicle running and EVIC at the
temperature/compass screen;
Holding the UP arrow for at 8-10 seconds then immediately release and hold the DOWN arrow until these screen(s) appear.
This can take a several seconds.
They (Dodge) seem to have made it more difficult, instead of easier to get to
the extended performance menu screens than previous model years.
For early models, this tip also documented in the 2008 Challenger
Owner's Manual [ pg.166 ]
Enable/Disable Economy Mode Display
Depending on EVIC software version;
On R/Ts with automatics (24J package) built after Nov. 17, 2008
that have the MDS (Multi-Displacement System), there is a way to enable/disable
the Economy Mode (ECO) indicator and/or change it to an icon. Using the
"extended" EVIC display (mentioned above) scroll through until you
find Personal Settings, then toggle
down a few clicks and you'll find "ECO Display."
There you will find the option to turn the ECO notification ON or OFF.
Note:
This does not turn MDS functions off, only the indicator light. There is also an
option to change the ECO that appears on the EVIC when MDS is activated to an
icon such as a leaf, or a globe, or variations of a few ECO icons.
Tip is documented
in 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg.161,172]
Tip is documented in 2010 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg.187]
Wipers - QuikWipe (or Mist Feature)
IF you are driving in light rain/misty conditions, and you just want the wipers
to swipe ONCE, gently push -IN- on the signal/wiper lever (along length of
shaft). The wipers to will swipe only
ONCE and uses no windshield washer fluid.
Tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger
Owner's Manual [pg. 127]
Quick Lane Change
If you actuate the turn signal lever either way and let go quickly without
pushing it far enough to "latch" into the
fixed position for signaling, the turn signals will flash three times and stop. This is good for fast merging into
traffic
and freeway quick lane changes.
This "tip" is also documented in
the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 124]
Odometer Stick Pin Button
Pressing the stick pin button on the trip odometer for a moment will cycle the
odometer display between Total miles, Trip A
and Trip B. If you DON'T have the EVIC option, the display cycle
will also include the outside temperature. If either of the Trip
odometer's are currently displayed and this knob is held in for a
second or two, that trip odometer will be reset to 0.0 mi.
This tip is also documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg.
158 ]
Headlight Flasher (Flash to Pass)
You probably know by now as with most LX Chrysler platform vehicles, the
high-beam headlights are switched on by pushing the turn-signal lever towards
the dash until it latches, but also when in low-beam position, pulling the lever TOWARDS you will activate
the high-beams momentarily until you release.
This "flash to pass" feature is good for letting that slow
driver in front of you to move right or yield.
Note:
Pulling back on the lever does NOT turn off the fog lamps. this is
a quick way to get the highest or MAXIMUM light forward/ahead.
Otherwise, pushing the lever forward to "lock" the high beams on will
also turn the fog lamps off.
More information on this in your owner's manual.
Tip is documented
in 2008 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg.153]
Tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger
Owner's Manual [pg. 124]
Factory Oil Filter Installation
The factory oil filters will seem to have been installed by a gorilla with a 30
inch pipe wrench! They are VERY
difficult to remove as they are put on with a pneumatic cap wrench at the factory to ensure they do not
leak. IF you do not have the proper
removal tool you should seriously consider having the first oil change done by
the dealer, even if you do it yourself every other time!
NOTE:
Strap wrench's just will not work, you will need the large socket
type "G" or "H" style end cap wrench either 1/2" or
3/8" drive. Lay a Scott paper towel
in the cap wrench to tap it onto the bottom of the STOCK filter. This will ensure a very tight fit so the cap
wrench will NOT slip. Make sure you get
the right size the with the correct number of "flats" to match the
stock filter unit (93mm, 15 flutes). Once you get the filter off, you can use a
small ball peen hammer to tap the cap wrench off the bottom of the old filter.
And if you have the 5.7 LTR
Hemi (Auto), you absolutely must INSIST
on 5W20 oil only. MDS requires this to work correctly.
Here is
a link to a OIL FILTER CAP WRENCH, the type you want to use with your stock
(93mm, 15 flute) and replacement oil filters;
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-54780-93mm-Cap-Wrench/dp/B0009OR97Y
Also, Your local AutoZone or Advance Auto should have generic oil
filter wrenches (Size D, 93mm, 15 flute) metal cap wrenches.
When
installing a new oil filter, here is the Dodge factory manual spec's;
For the absolute best oil filter for your
Challenger available on the market, see: Tip:79
DRL’s for Safety (Daytime Running Lights)
Note: Daytime Running Lights are required by Canadian Law. Not required under US law.
Would you like driving with your headlights on in the daytime for safety
reasons (it's the law in Canada)? Think
about having your Daytime Running Lights
(DRLs) enabled!
It turns your dual filament parking lamp bulbs (the yellow/orange
ones) to the (higher Candle Power) high filament intensity whenever the
headlights are OFF.
This will have to be done at the dealer to get them "activated"
because it requires the car to be hooked up to the StarScan/StarMobile Tool and some sales codes updated.
With the press of a few buttons on StarScan
(on 2010 and newer models use StarMobile), you're
ready to go.
The Vehicle VIN must be updated with sales code of added accessory
in order to enable system functionality using the DealerCONNECT
(Dealer.net website) and StarSCAN/StarMobile or newer WiTech diagnostic tool.
DRL's
will only turn on when the car is in Drive. If the engine is not running, vehicle
is in park or parking brake is on, the DRL's will not turn on.
See Tip#41
for additional details and information for assisting Chrysler/Dodge dealer
service techs to perform this sales option.
Many dealerships will
not know what you are talking about exactly but this tip will show them.
For those interested in Daytime Running Lights and exactly what
they are, history and current standards, look HERE for
more technical info.
DRL
Activation Warning! Add a note to DRL
activation tip and warning for dealers.
WARNING NOTE TO
DEALERSHIPS!
The following is feedback from a
frustrated owner from "improper" TIPM configuration.
“I
live in the US. I lost my travel link/traffic menu on my 2011 730N RHR almost a
year ago.
Dealer doesn't have a clue, they swapped my radio out & still no luck, I
updated the new radio
to "software version 2.169", I tried the reloading version 2.120 EM
factory reset method over
& over, still no joy. Over 50 hours on the phone with Sirius &
countless trips to the dealership
to hear them say “just wait”, the issue will be fixed with the new update
that's due in the
fall, I didn't buy it.
After
reading your tips, I suspected my dealer configured
my TIPM for Canada model, in order
to have Daytime Running Lights activated. It was my suspicion that played a
part in the missing
Travel Link & Traffic menu, as I understand Travel Link & Traffic is a
US. service only from Sirius.
I asked a lot of Canadian owners if they had the Travel Link & Traffic menu
on their radios & every
one of them answered no, it’s not a Canadian option.
Problem solved:
As I suspected, the dealership changed my TIPM
Config to "Canada sales code", but refused
to
look @ your printed instructions or hear me out on the matter.
I Called SRT, they called the dealer & had them change it back to US. today
& presto, after a year
and a 1/2 of fighting with dealerships, I got all my travel link & traffic
menus back & DRL activated
from the US. Star menu. Thanks to you. Sometimes the customer is right, getting
the dealer to
admit it, well that's a whole other thing.
Maybe you should add a warning!!!! to this section of the
DRL tip, that allowing the dealership to change the country code to activate
DRL will disable
Travel Link & Traffic menus in the Mygig radios.”
- Thanks again, F. Raymore Jr.
Fuel Cap Hanger and Low Fuel Warning
Inside the fuel door is a little
hook in which to hang your fuel cap, by the cord so that the cap doesn't hang
down against car.
Below is a clip from the 2010 challenger Owner's Manual;
Fuel Filler Cap — R/T Model
NOTE:
When removing the
fuel filler cap, lay the cap tether in the hook, located on the fuel filler
door.
This tip is also
documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 321 ]
Low Fuel Warning!
Low Fuel Light;
This light will turn on and a single chime will sound when the fuel level drops to 1/8 tank. Based on a max tank level of 19 gal, this is
approximately 2.3 gals of fuel left.
Now on a typical MPG of 15-20 MPG, you have about 30 miles of driving left before you run
out of gas.
Estimated driving distance, the DTE display will change to a
text display of _LOW FUEL_. This display will continue until the vehicle runs out of
fuel. Adding a significant amount of
fuel to the vehicle will turn off the _LOW FUEL_ text
and a new DTE value will display.
Also of note is the
fuel filler cap location indicator arrow
on the Instrument Cluster next to the LOW FUEL warning light. Fuel fill is on the left side of the vehicle.
This arrow points to the side the filler cap is on. Note the picture below (1) Fuel Gauge and low fuel warning indicator light.
Tip:12
Disable Seat Belt Reminder Chime:
Quick Procedure;
Step 1. With the ignition switch in any position except On or
Start, buckle the driver side front seat belt.
Step 2. Turn ignition switch to ON position and wait for the seat belt indicator
reminder function to conclude (about 6 sec’s).
Step 3. Unbuckle and buckle the driver side front seat belt three or more
times, ending with the belt buckled.
Step 4. Turn the ignition switch to any position except On or Start to toggle
the belt-minder feature from its current setting
(from active to
inactive, or from inactive to active).
A single chime tone will provide an audible confirmation that the programming
sequence has been successfully completed.
(This does NOT disable the INITIAL chime, only the nagging repeats
every few seconds).
(Full
Length procedure and text from the 2009 Challenger R/T owner's manual pages
43-44)
Enhanced Seat Belt Use Reminder System (BeltAlert_)
If the driver’s seat belt has not been buckled within
60 seconds of starting the vehicle and if the vehicle speed is greater
than 5 mph (8 km/h), the Enhanced Seat Belt Use
Reminder System (BeltAlert_) will alert the driver to
buckle the seat belt.
The driver should also instruct all other
occupants to buckle their seat belts. Once the warning is triggered, the BeltAlert_
will continue to chime and flash the Seat Belt
Reminder Light for 96 seconds or until the driver’s seat belt is buckled. The
BeltAlert_ will be reactivated if the
driver’s seat belt is unbuckled for more
than 10 seconds and the vehicle speed is greater
than 5 mph (8 km/h).
BeltAlert_ Programming
The BeltAlert_ can be enabled or disabled
by your authorized dealer or by performing the following steps:
NOTE: Chrysler LLC does not recommend deactivating the BeltAlert_.
1. With both doors closed, and the ignition
switch in any position except ON or START, buckle the driver’s seat belt.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position, but
do not start the engine. Wait for the Seat Belt Reminder Light to
turn off and then proceed to the next step.
NOTE: You must perform the following steps within 60 seconds of
turning the ignition switch to the ON position.
3. Within 60 seconds of turning the ignition
switch to the ON position, unbuckle and then re-buckle the driver’s seat
belt at
least three times, ending with the seat belt buckled.
NOTE: Watch for the Seat Belt Reminder Light to turn on while
unbuckling the seat belt and turn off while re-buckling the seat belt.
It may be necessary to retract the seat belt.
4. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK position.
A single chime will sound to signify that you have successfully completed the
programming.
The BeltAlert_ can be reactivated by
repeating this procedure.
NOTE: When the BeltAlert_ is deactivated, the Seat
Belt Reminder Light will continue to illuminate as long as the driver’s seat
belt is unbuckled.
Tip is also documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 43 ]
NOTE for 2014: <From
70barcuda> Well now I've upgraded to a 2014 SRT with a push button start and I wondered if I could do
the same with it. The answer is yes, the owner's manual states that it doesn't
recommend turning the warning chime off, but does allow that you can get your
dealership to do it. You can also follow the above procedure and do it
yourself as it still works. |
Ditch that Hood Prop Rod!
If you are like me, you got tired fast of having to use the prop-rod to keep
your hood open. You can buy Mopar hood struts to do the job properly for about
$55.
A five minute install and if you look under the hood, you'll notice, near the
hinge, that you already have one-half of the ball joints installed on the hood.
To install, start the bolt provided into the hole in the fender
and apply pressure while tightening with your deep socket wrench (metric). The
bolt will "self thread".
Mopar
Part number's
68035556AA, LH
68035557AA, RH
6507889AA, Studs ( need 2 ea)
or MOPAR Strut Kit
available for Challenger RT/SE part# 82212094
(includes both struts and ball mounts.)
NOTE:
Take care and look. As the Struts are NOT the same.
They are marked RIGHT and LEFT
on respective pkg's so do pay attention to which is
which before unwrapping!
Extending Sun Visor!
Note that if you detach the sun visor from the clip holding it to the
headliner, you can not only swivel it around and down to your side window but
it also has a short hidden extension that slides out along the shaft.
Additionally, a smaller plastic visor "extension" pulls
out from inside of the visor to block the sun from the gap between the visor
and center rear view mirror.
Look along the visor edge for the little thumb or finger depression
and then pull out.
Tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 78 ]
ESP and Cruise Control
NOTE:
In order to ensure proper operation, the
Electronic Speed Control System has been designed to shut down if multiple
Speed Control functions are operated.
This means that when ESP (Electronic Stability Program) "activates", it
will turn "OFF" your cruise control. You will lose any previous SET
speed.
If this occurs, the Electronic Speed Control System can be reactivated
by pushing the Electronic Speed Control ON/OFF button and resetting the desired
vehicle set speed.
To Activate
Push and release the ON/OFF button located on the end of the
Electronic Speed Control lever. The indicator light in the instrument cluster
will illuminate to show that the speed control system is on. To turn the system
off, push and release the ON/OFF button again. The system and the indicator
light will now turn off.
Tip
is documented in the 2010 Challenger Owner's Manual, pg. 133
Trinket Tray Removal
All Challengers have a small trinket or change tray in front of the shifter
area. Did you know that the tray liner is removable for cleaning?
As well as the bottom tray liner on the rectangular slot to the left
of the cup holders.
This
is documented in 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg.399]
Cruise Control Operations
When using the "cruise control" system and going down a steep hill,
the transmission will downshift to try
to keep you close to your
set speed. Refer to your owner's manual
for more detailed information on Cruise control operations.
It is also advisable not to use the cruise control while driving
in the rain. Hydroplaning or hitting
slick spots in the roadway can create
a vehicle control issue while under active cruise control.
This tip is also documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg.
132 ]
Nav Unit
destination tip
If you have the NAV unit, the easiest and quickest way to enter a destination
(if it is a POI) is to enter the phone number!
Scroll down to get to where it allows you to enter phone number (it is out of
sight). The numeric keypad entry is
faster
to use than the full alpha keypad, you don't need to use the list of names (POI
names or street names). And there are
no collisions on the entry (exactly one destination comes up). It also enters the dashes automatically.
Also with the NAV
Radio - You can program your destination, and begin route, with one button
press.
Press Voice Command button
Say "Main Menu"
wait for prompt
Say "Navigation"
follow prompts and use voice commands to finish programming and beginning
route.
Turn-by-Turn Navigation — If Equipped
When ON is selected, the Turn-by-Turn directions will appear in
the display as the vehicle approaches a designated turn
within a programmed route. To make your selection, press and release the
FUNCTION SELECT button until “ON” or “OFF”
appears.
EVIC Compass Calibration
If you have EVIC, holding down the Compass button for several seconds will
place EVIC into a diagnostic mode for the
compass which also allows you to reset its magnetic calibration (i.e.
fluctuation between true north and magnetic north).
This tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 176
]
Watching Evic while fueling
If you are equipped with the EVIC, if you leave the key in the "ON" position
while fueling, you can not only watch the gas
gauge rise, if you leave the EVIC in "Distance to Empty" mode, you
can watch the numbers change as the tank fills.
Distance to Empty can be found in the normal/standard EVIC mode
without having to go into the "extended" mode.
This tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 174
]
Turn Signal Bulbs Out Warning
If your turn signal is flashing at a faster rate for one side or the other,
check the flasher light (front and rear) bulbs on that
side; one of your bulbs has failed.
The 2x (twice as fast as normal) turn signal flasher speed is a
warning indication for one or more signal "bulbs out". This is
typical of all “shunt” type electronic flashers, which monitor bulb/load
current.
This tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 24 ]
Trunk OPEN operations
You cannot open the trunk with either the "release" button on the
dash or with the key FOB button until the automatic transmission is in the
"PARK" position.
This tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 34 ]
Free Dodge Owners Manuals
Need to look something up in the owner's manual?
Download it for free here (on this site, see link below) as a .PDF
file! Just choose your year and model.
It is FREE, Courtesy
of Chrysler/Dodge. Create a short-cut on your Microsoft Windows desktop for
ONE-CLICK access for speedy access.
You can use the SEARCH function in the Adobe viewer to find data
in the owner's manual extremely fast!
Here is link to Dodge manuals: http://www.dodge.com/en/owners/manuals/
Now,
If you are the first registered owner you can get a "printed copy" of
the owner's manual by calling;
1-800-992-1997 in
the U.S.
1-800-387-1143 in Canada.
See
Also: Tip:57 Documents - Owner's
Manuals, Dealer/Sales Documents, etc.
Dash and Panel Lights Parade Mode (and other dimmer features)
If you like driving with parking lights or headlights on in the daytime, there
is a Parade Mode (daytime brightness feature) of the dash and panel
lights. Rotate the dash light dimmer control
upward to the first detent to select it.
This feature brightens all displays such as odometer, EVIC and
radio when the parking or headlights are on.
Interior “light dimmer” tips;
Other than dimming the Instrument cluster lighting and interior lighting,
you can use the dimmer at different “positions”.
Dome Light Position
Rotate the dimmer control completely upward to the second detent
to turn ON the interior lights.
The interior lights will remain ON when the dimmer control is in this position.
Interior Light Defeat (OFF)
Rotate the dimmer control to the extreme bottom OFF position.
The interior lights will remain OFF when the doors are open.
Parade Mode (Daytime Brightness Feature)
Rotate the dimmer control upward to the first detent.
This feature brightens all text displays such as the odometer, Electronic
Vehicle Information Center (EVIC), and radio when the parking lights or
headlights are ON.
This tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger
Owner's Manual [pg. 126]
MyGig Unit and Parade mode tip:
MyGig NAV
Screen "AutoMode" (via
Vin57) See Tip:187 MyGig and Parade Mode
Tip:25
Top Speed Display on the R/T
Depending on EVIC version note the following;
If you are viewing the "extended" EVIC display and you
push the trip odometer stick pin button once, the EVIC will
display your top speed recorded since you started the car.
Also,
Gaining access to stored TOP SPEED in
EVIC. While in "digital
speedometer" mode:
DISPLAY
TOP SPEED
Press/Hold
function select button ">" to toggle between current speed and top
speed achieved.
RESET
TOP SPEED
Quickly
press and release the function select button when Top Speed is
displayed. Note, the top speed Warning 2013-2014 Model Years: Do NOT activate top speed display (from Whiterabbit) If you have an end of year 2013 or a 2014 RT. Do NOT try
to activate your "top speed" display through the extended EVIC. |
Turn Signal Warning
When you leave your blinker on for a while (more than 1 mile/1.6Km) and forget
it while driving, the vehicle will chime (in sync with blinker) to warn you!
So, "turn the signal blinker off"
as people might think you have Alzheimer's.
This tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 160
]
Door Lock Modes
If you hit the door lock switch on the armrest while the door is open and the car
is running, it will NOT lock the doors.
You can unlock them but it will not let you lock the doors to
prevent you from accidentally locking yourself out.
This and other door lock modes are explained in the owner's
Manual.
This tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 30 ]
Disable ESP/Traction in R/T
To partially disable the ESP/Traction Control in an R/T, press and hold the ESP
button while in park for about 5-6 seconds.
The ESP beeps and instrument panel (Mr. Squiggly) shows bypassed.
It's now partially disabled until you turn off engine.
NOTE:
With
the "Super Track Pak" on the R/T J or R/T Classic, no "key
trick" is needed to get full off ESP.
While in PARK, press and hold ESP off button until the system chimes.
This tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 286
]
R/T and SE ESP "Key Tricks"
To completely disable the R/T ESP/Traction Control. While moving at more than
15 mph, you turn the key to START and
hold it for a few seconds until the system chimes. (Don't worry, the starter
won't engage). The chimes indicate that the
ESP is now completely disabled until you turn the engine off. This is known as
the "key trick."
R/T FULL ESP OFF
Also
for anyone wondering what the key trick is, simply hit the ESP button once...
you don't need to hold for 10 sec's or
whatever, that doesn't work. Just hit it once like you normally will, the
squiggly lines will pop up.
Now
start driving and once you get above 15 mph simply turn and hold the key as if
your trying to start up the car.
Hold the key in that position for about 5 sec's.
Don't
worry your starter won't try to crank over because it already knows the car is
running. Now the first thing
you'll notice is that your radio will turn off and back on along with anything
plugged into your cigarette lighter like
a radar detector or whatever.
IF
you look at your dash you will have Mr. Squiggly. (ESP 1/2 off) and your ABS light (Brake) will be ON. You are
now in total OFF mode. Have fun and be
careful as you have no brake assist.
Braking
will not be as good as you may have become accustomed to.
So
now all your traction control and ESP are fully OFF and you can smoke tires
till they turn into drag radials!
This is continued until the vehicle is
stopped and IGN OFF/ON and Engine Start cycle is re-initiated
For SE models, all 2010 SE's have ESP, it's the 2009's without the popular option package that don't.
NOTE:
With the "Super Track Pak" on the R/T J or R/T
Classic, no "key trick" is needed to get full off ESP.
While in PARK, press and hold ESP off button until the system chimes.
2011
Update: It appears that the
"key trick" does not work
for this model year. Looks like Chrysler
has
made a hardware/software WIN module change and the trick only works for
previous model years.
Extended EVIC trip pin trick
Depending on your vehicle's model year and EVIC software version;
While in the "extended" EVIC display, if you press the
stick pin for the trip odometer and switch it to Trip B, your top speed will be
revealed!
Take care, it "resets" with the arrow key.
Keyless Entry Start and CEL
If you have the push button start feature and your "check engine light" comes on, your FOBIK (key fob)
remote start
will work but it will only run for about 10 seconds, then stop. After that,
you'll have to restart the car by removing the
start button cover and insert/use the FOBIK as a key.
See Tip:142
Keyless
Go Button (Tech Tip & Operation Info) for more
specific documentation on Keyless Go System operations.
Tip documented in 2008
Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 162]
Tip documented in 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 162]
Center Console Lid Trick
Did you know that the center console arm rest
adjusts forwards and backwards?
Just give it a nudge forward toward the dash to release and it will
slide back and forth to your desired position.
WARNING
NOTE:
Moving it all of the way forward partially covers one of the cup
holders and it is no longer accessible.
This tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 147
]
Tip:33
1. Be sure key is set to the 'OFF' position.
2. Press and hold the 'Trip Meter Reset' button.
3. Turn the key to 'ON' position.
The gauges will step through the whole range.
If a gauge is seems to be "acting up" or not
functioning, this is an fast way to see if it's a "sensor" (sender)
or a Instrument Cluster gauge.
Odometer Trip button on non EVIC
On vehicles with no EVIC (the basis dash)- If you press the trip odometer
button you will get your trip mileage, press again and you will get outside
temperature.
Now press again to get your MDS or ECO/
Tip:35
Air Conditioner.
If you press in the re-circulate air button (the one on the left
that does not have the snow flake icon on it) it also starts the air
conditioner and provides the coldest AC air.
This is due to AC being activated in "Re-circulate Air Position" with
ONE single button press.
This "tip" is documented in the
2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 233]
Tip:36
Sun Roof Open Modes:
For those with sun roof there are two separate opening modes. The forward button on roof console is to open,
farther most setting closes the roof (at position desired once released). The
"middle" button, closes the roof and then the glass closes at front
and raises up in back.
For more information on operation and calibration of the
electrical control module see; Tip:118 Power Top Sunroof - Operations and Calibration
Tip:37
Windows "Express Down" using
FOBIK.
Hit your UNLOCK button
to unlock your doors and then about 1 second later, press OPEN again and HOLD it
down.
BOTH windows will come down to cool the car off.
Releasing the HOLD on the unlock button while windows are opening
will STOP the windows open function in progress.
Great to cool off a hot car as you are approaching and unlocking
it.
Please note the following;
This is documented in the 2008 and 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg.
24 ] – Express Down Feature
This is documented in the 2010 Challenger Owner’s Manual [pg.23]
and 2011 Challenger Owners
Manual [pg. 24] but this feature is not called “Express Down”. This manual refers to this feature as “Remote
Open Window Feature”.
All the above are located in the “Things to know before starting your
vehicle”.
Update for 2012-2013 models:
It appears "express window down" feature
from the remote (FOBIK) does not work on the 2013 and is not listed in the
manual.
Tip:38
Reset the "Oil Change
Required" message in the EVIC:
Unless properly reset, this message will continue
to display each time you turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
To turn off the message "temporarily", press and release the TRIP ODOMETER button on the instrument cluster.
1. Turn the key to
"ON" but don't start the engine.
2. Press the gas pedal to
the floor and release 3 times within 10 seconds.
3. In some cases, the EVIC
may display "Oil change reset" as an acknowledgment.
4. Turn the key to OFF and
you're done.
KeyLess Go
setups?
For those who have the PUSH
BUTTON START installed (Keyless Go), you can remove the start button and
use the FOBIK as a key to do the above or do the following steps below;
(a.) Do
not press the brake pedal and press the Start button twice (EVIC will say IGNITION ON).
(b.)
Press the gas pedal 3 times to
the floor within 5 seconds.
Instrument Cluster (EVIC) will
display "Oil Change Reset"
as an acknowledgement.
(c.)
Press the Start button once more to turn OFF the Ignition.
NOTE 1:
The
next time you start the car the "Oil Change Required" message will be
gone, until the algorithm for Oil Condition determines that you need to change
your oil again.
Now,
for this to work correctly in determining oil quality, RESET your EVIC immediately upon changing your oil so the internal
algorithm is reset and restarted.
The vehicle cannot tell when you change oil and you need to clear/restart the
monitoring setup to avoid erroneous oil change messages.
NOTE 2:
For those
interest in how the "oil change" light actually works, look at this; Tip:125
This Tip documented
in the following Challenger Owner's Manuals;
2008 Challenger Owner's
Manual [pg. 162]
2009 Challenger Owner's
Manual [pg. 162]
2010 Challenger Owner's
Manual [pg. 177]
2011 Challenger Owner's
Manual [pg. 190]
2012 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 200]
Resetting NGC (PCM) Driver Fuel Adaptive’s
NGC (PCM) CLEAR
PROCEDURE
- Open
the cover on the TIPM (engine fuse block/center) and pull Fuse F2
(25A - Front engine TIPM Electrical
Distribution Center) for a count of approximately 25-30 seconds resets (clears)
the NGC's Adaptive memory.
For those that need a picture (there is a Fuse location on the lid
of the TIPM) here is an overhead view
It is a 25 amp beige fuse!
Fuse chart Fuse #2 says it is the NGC module feed.
-or you
can -
-
Disconnect the POSITIVE battery Terminal and touch it to ground for 30 seconds.
(This is to discharge the PCM capacitors,
which maintain the Adaptive Memory. Reconnect the
(pulling F2 in the TIPM is
a lot faster and easier than disconnecting the battery)
- Turn Ignition Switch to the “On”
position but DO NOT start the
engine!
- Turn Headlight “On”
- Turn Headlights “Off”
- Turn Ignition Key “Off”
Adaptive memory has now been
flashed, or erased from the PCM.
When you start the engine it will be running off a set of pre-programmed tables
that come with the PCM from the factory.
Cycling the headlights as listed will create a "short
term" fuel adaptive learn period (50
start cycles).
Here's
what it does exactly!
Pulling
Fuse F2 resets;
- All PCM DTCs erased.
- All OBD2 monitor results erased.
- All "long term fuel trim adaptive" values reset to Zero.
Long term Fuel Adaptive trim will now start over the next 100 engine start cycles.
Cycle the headlights as described above will create a Short Term
Fuel Adaptive trim table over the next 50
start cycles.
Driver Adaptives?
Driver Adaptive's and related fuel table trim is probably the
least understood algorithm contained within the NGC - Next Generation
Controller (also called PCM)
There are long term fuel adaptive trim (100 start cycles) and short term fuel adaptive trim (50 start cycles). The NGC looks at what the fuel requirements
to operate are during "closed loop" operations. The fuel trim algorithm is slowly and
gradually attempting to bring the fuel consumption to best suit driving
conditions and optimize the MPG by feedback from O2 and other sensors.
Short term and long term fuel trim are also used in
analyzing KR (Knock Retard) and attempting to have the NGC (PCM) calibrate the
engine timing based on quality of fuel.
With different quality fuels and octane's, the NGC tries to always
adjust for the best engine timing (advance/retard) to protect the engine from
knock or prevent detonation. The knock
sensors on the HEMI engine are quite sensitive and can be considered to be
"engine microphones".
What
is Knock Retard?
Knock
Retard (hereafter referred to as KR) is the response from the PCM to cylinder
detonation. KR is the measure of the number of degrees of overall
ignition timing advance that must be removed from the engine to prevent
detonation from continuing, thus protecting the engine from damage.
What
is REAL KR and what is FALSE KR?
Real
KR is KR that grows with engine RPM and engine load. It depends entirely
on detonation, which is dependent upon throttle position, IAT or MAF, MAP,
engine load, engine temperature, and RPM. As RPM and engine load
increase, the chance for KR (or higher KR) increases. As the vehicle
shifts to the next gear, KR will usually make a small jump up as well due to
the higher engine load.
False
knock is characterized by a sharp spike to an immediately high value of KR
followed instantly by the KR Recovery Rate. It doesn't grow with engine
RPM or load, it jumps to a high value on throttle input and then recovers to a
low value, or zero perhaps, as engine RPM continues to increase. Note
that this is exactly opposite to the characterization of REAL KR.
Remember, knock is simply specific noise detected by engine microphones.
Because it happens to fall within the frequency of real KR does not necessarily
mean that it IS real KR.
To
learn more about "What is Knock" read this excellent and detailed
write up below;
http://www.stlclubgp.com/tech/kr/
The
PCM has the ability to do some rudimentary fuel tuning (all modern vehicles now
do this) via "closed loop mode".
It has two main modes of operation, closed loop and open loop. When the engine is started and heated up past
160 deg. F, the NGC (PCM) now goes into "closed loop" control whereby
it takes feedback from sensors (ie. IAT, MAP, O2,
Knock, etc.) and looks at the fuel efficiency and attempts to tweak out the
current fuel tables to get the best MPG and engine efficiency.
Tromping
the accelerator to the floor puts the PCM into OPEN loop where it now goes to
fixed tables to do fuel mixture and o2 sensors are now bypassed.
So
where does this wind up over time. Well,
there is a number of "learn cycles" that The PCM goes into for fuel Adaptives, normal 100
start cycles, or a "quick learn" of 50 start cycles (using the headlight ON/OFF trick). During these times (cycles) fuel trim
adaptive algorithms work on trying to get the best MPG. After the 100 cycles, the MPG magic is pretty
much done until something is done to initial another "learn cycle"
like clear memory.
These
start cycles are a fixed "time-cycle" effort to build a fuel trim
table and the algorithm will stop fuel trim after these 50 or 100 start cycles.
So
if you have been driving around for a number of weeks, months in a laid back fashion,
the PCM has learned this and attempted to get the best MPG for you and tuned
down (slowly) performance. So, one day
you tromp the gas hard or do some spirited driving and you notice the car
"sluggish", or not quite as peppy as before. This could be the
reason. Clearing out long term fuel
table adaptive memory can sometimes help.
The
PCM has a number of classes and types of internal memory. The fuel table Adaptive's
are stored in volatile memory and when the fuse (F2) is pulled for at least
20-30 seconds, this memory is cleared and you can start over building a new set
of Fuel Table Adaptive's for closed loop control
(next 100 start cycles).
If you granny drive around town your car adapts to that type of
driving. Then when you want to do a lot of quick aggressive driving the vehicle
may seem sluggish and not "as
responsive" as you remember. You may need to do something to the PCM
called clearing driving fuel Adaptive's.
TCM
Driver Adaptives?
Now, what about the Automatic (NAG1) Transmission and its stored
driver adaptives?
For those who wonder about NAG1 (Auto) transmission driver adaptive's, that is another animal entirely and pulling F2
does nothing
whatsoever with the TCM
(Transmission Control Module). if You
have a Diablo Predator tuner, you are able to use this tool to reset
the TCM via menu option.
Read more on the TCM and its operations at Tip:109 The TCM - Transmission
Control Module (Detail)
Owner FAQ's
DM2;
Perhaps this will yield some additional understanding.
OBDII
Emission Control Adaptive Strategy
What is fuel
trim?
Fuel trim is a window that allows you to see what the PCM (computer) is doing
to control fuel delivery and determine how the PCM's "adaptive
strategy" is operating. The PCM on the Dodge Challenger is now referred to
NGC (Next Generation Controller) as it is able to "rationalize" its
inputs for improved diagnostics and response.
Why was fuel trim created?
In order for vehicle manufacturers to comply with EPA emissions regulations,
catalytic converters were added to reduce tailpipe emissions. Catalytic converters
need a stoichiometric air/fuel ratio of approximately
14.7:1 to obtain the greatest emissions reductions.
Vehicle engineers designed closed-loop engine control systems to maintain that
ratio, adjusting injector pulse width based on information from oxygen sensor
and other inputs.
Short-term fuel trim (STFT) and
long-term fuel trim (LTFT) are
normally expressed as a percentage, and the ideal range should be within ±5%.
Positive fuel trim percentages indicate that the powertrain
control module (PCM) is attempting to richen the fuel mixture, to compensate
for a perceived lean condition. Negative fuel trim percentages indicate the PCM
is attempting to lean out the fuel mixture, to compensate for a perceived rich
condition. STFT and LTFT percentages are the adjustments made by the PCM to
maintain the 14.7:1 ratio.
No matter what the drivability issue happens to be, the fuel trim window should
be used first to check the STFT and LTFT parameters/values.
There are two basic fuel control systems used on most vehicles: Speed
Density systems, which use rpm, manifold absolute pressure (MAP) and
barometric pressure (BARO) to calculate engine load, and Mass Airflow systems,
which use the mass airflow sensor (MAF) and rpm to calculate engine load.
In both cases, the PCM begins with a standard injector pulse width calculation,
based on various inputs and internal fuel cell tables.
The equation used by Dodge "Speed Density" OBD II vehicles to
establish initial pulse width is: Injector Pulse Width = (RPM × MAP/BARO) × TPS
× ECT × IAT × Battery Volts × O2 (Short Term x Long Term).
Once the vehicle is running and the engine control system enters
"closed-loop", the PCM relies primarily on feedback from the
oxygen sensor to determine if the stoichiometric air/fuel ratio is being
maintained. This ratio is critical to
allowing the vehicle to pass Federal Emissions requirements.
Think of "closed-loop" operation as a Sense-Decide-React
sequence.
The PCM determines the base injector pulse width as described above.
The Sense phase begins once the system enters closed-loop, and is handled by
the oxygen sensor.
In the Decide phase, the PCM uses the oxygen sensor data to determine if the
proper 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio is being maintained. If the ratio is correct, the
PCM decides that no change should be made to the injector pulse width. In this
scenario, the React phase maintains the same injector pulse width. However, if
the air/fuel ratio is 16.1:1 (lean) during the Sense phase, the PCM makes the
decision to increase the injector pulse width to correct the lean air/fuel
ratio condition.
In the React phase, the PCM commands the fuel injector to stay open longer. The
Sense-Decide-React sequence continues throughout closed-loop operation,
maintaining the proper air/fuel ratio.
During "closed-loop" operation, the PCM reports changes in fuel trim
calculations via the OBD II generic data parameters short-term and long-term
fuel trim. STFT for most vehicles will normally sweep rapidly in response to
the oxygen sensor. In many cases, if you graph Bank 1 STFT and BlSl O2 sensor, you'll see the oxygen sensor go rich and
STFT go lean to adjust the air/fuel ratio. The oxygen sensor will then go lean
and STFT will go rich.
LTFT for most vehicles will remain more stable, adjusting over a longer period
of time.
On some vehicles, if STFT has reached the specified limit, LTFT will change in
a few seconds. On other vehicles it may take 15 to 20 seconds before a change
occurs. The LTFT calculation is normally kept in memory, so the PCM is ready to
use the last known injector pulse width following a restart. STFT will normally
begin at 0% and adjust to the current conditions.
Both STFT and LTFT will normally reset
when all trouble codes are cleared.
The LTFT calculation is kept in PCM memory so the PCM does not need to
"relearn" the fuel trim calculation the next time the vehicle is
started.
The PCM adaptive memory has fuel trim cells that will store data to add or
subtract additional fuel at different rpm and manifold pressures, this fine
tunes the fuel mixture as required, if the data is incorrect the vehicle will
still run "bad" until it relearns (adapts) itself, resetting the
adaptive memory resets this data back to 0 so it can relearn from there, and
the vehicle will normally run better from the start.
Note
that WOT operations (wide open throttle) operate on "fixed" fuel
tables as opposed to closed loop adaptive tables.
Note here that Dodge Challenger with automatic and Dodge Challenger with manual
transmissions are "tuned" differently.
Please note also, that you should not confuse NAG1 automatic transmission adaptive's with those of the PCM/NGC although they are
similar in their "processes", but what they do is quite different.
Read more on the TCM and its operations at Tip:109 The TCM - Transmission
Control Module (Detail)
Tip:40
Centering the Steering Wheel: AKA: SAS
calibration (steering Angle Sensor)
On
Disconnect of the vehicle battery;
You may need to do a SAS calibration if when restoring power your
steering wheel and steering angle sensor get out of calibration.
This is where the steering wheel is centered, but the actual front wheels are
not seen centered (electronically).
If the vehicle is equipped with ESP,
once the battery is reconnected, the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) within the
Antilock Brake Module (ABM)
needs to be calibrated. The SAS requires calibration (initialization) using the
scan tool anytime the battery or an ABS (ESP) component has
been disconnected for any length of time.
If the SAS is not calibrated
following battery reconnection, the ESP/BAS indicator lamp will flash
continuously with no DTCs.
Step 1: Start car:
Center the wheels (not the steering wheel, but the actual front wheels need
to be straight) then Turn OFF car,
open door to kill electronics, wait
for 3 minutes for vehicle CANBUS to shutdown.
Step 2: Start car:
turn wheels full right turn and hold for a 10
turn wheels full left and hold for a 10
turn wheels full right
turn wheels full left
Return to Center.
---
Note:
In the dealers StarScan tool, it directs you thru
each step with a countdown timer of 10 seconds.. but the StarScan
is not needed to
calibrate the SAS "Steering Control Sensors", all it is
doing is walking you thru the above listed steps.
This applies to all models (SX,RT,SRT) of Dodge Challenger 2008
and above, as all have the SCM (Steering Control Module)
at the base of the steering column.
Note related item: Tip:91 Battery Reconnection Procedure (reset DDM, PDM, & SCM's)
Tip:41
DRL’s on CHALLENGER: How To ACTIVATE
DRL's (Daytime
Running Lights) and Activation of.
This
is where the inboard AMBER turn signals both come on bright and stay on while
driving and properly switch OFF/ON during turn signals.
The
bright amber lights highlight the vehicle for others to see it better during
the day, hence the name Daytime Running Lights.
When
you select headlights on, the DRL's switch off and AMBER turn signals now go to
low power filament and will glow bright on lane
change
indications as normal.
In
Canada it is against the law to remove/disable the DRL on any vehicle 1990 and
newer.
Also all vehicles imported that are mfg 1990 and newer must have them. They are
considered basic safety equipment- like
brake lights or headlights.
Note to Service Tech's
to Activate DRL's on the Dodge Challenger in the United States.
You
do not have to Change COUNTRY code (ie. Canada, Unites States, etc.) to do this.
It
is NOT in the vehicle Prep Area!
This
is done in TIPM (Total Integrated
Power Module) Programming Options.
With
StarScan
(or with 2010 and newer StarMobile or WiTech) go
into TIPM setup. Note: Do not use Wycliff
for this!
Note: We can do this
also for add on "fog lamps" on other models.
StarScan or StarMobile:
ECU
View --->
TIPM/CGW --->
Misc Functions --->
Enable DRL - follow prompts.
Check the status of the DRL and see if its ENABLED. It is not listed as "Daytime Running Lights" but it is actually listed as "DRL" in the scan tool.
When
vehicle is placed in gear and
parking brake is in the OFF
position, the DRL's will then
automatically come on.
Q: Just to be clear: the orange (inner most)
lights can be set to DRL mode following this procedure?
A:
Yes, but only in gear, no parking brake on, it will turn on the turn
signal element in the front lights only.
The
following picture shows stepping through the different light operations
(modes).
DRL
enable conditions are as follows:
a. DRL’s switch OFF when EMER.BRAKE is ON, turn OFF EMER.BRAKE if on to test
DRL’s.
b. DRL's switch OFF when headlights are turned ON.
c. Automatic transmission: Make sure the vehicle is in "gear" to activate
as well.
d. Standard transmission: DRL's on when engine running, headlights
off, EMER.BRAKE off.
Note:
IF your service technician at the Dodge Dealership tries to activate
them on a system called Wycliff, it will NOT be possible.
Tell
them they must follow the procedure noted above to get into the TIPM configuration and select the option
there.
Many dealer tech's are not intimately familiar with all the TIPM
configuration options.
Be patient and give them a written copy of the above step-by-step
procedure.
See: Tip:10 DRL’s for Safety (Daytime
Running Lights)for related DRL information as
well.
SEE: Note in above tip to dealerships on how NOT to improperly
configure the TIPM for Canadian sales code!!!!!
NOTE
For 2014 Challengers!
Seems that Chrysler has made changes to
the TIPM setup menus and the dealer techs are having problems finding where
to enable the feature for 2014 model
Challengers. It may be easier for them
to add the "sales code" via dealerconnect.net
and turn them on with this code.
LMK Daytime Running Headlamps (Fleet)
2014 Dodge Challenger option packages and pricing.
2014 Challenger Update:1
FYI, according to my Tech, its DRL option is located in the
TIPM menu, ECU settings and the DRL option is located in there.
There is no option code for it. The option to turn them on and off is in the
TIPM setup.
2014 Challenger Update:2
(Courtesy Raddonkey) Witech Programmer
update? (05/09/2014) |
Tip:42
Adding Cabin Air Filter:
Here is a link to the kit I used for this modification.
Passenger Cabin Air Filtration
http://www.moparsupercenter.com/passenger-cabin-air-filtration82209548.html
Now the kit comes with a new plenum box, but you shouldn't need to replace this
as it is the same for vehicles with or without
the filter. You really only need the insert that holds the filter,
the filter, and new retainer clips, all of which are included in the kit.
Cabin Filtration kit: ID:82209548
Aftermarket Replacement filters available: NAPA #4909 or Wix #24909.
NOTE! Update to "moldy" smell in cabin from air filter types;
Smelly, moldy AC here is the cure!!!
Purchase a Wix cabin air filter
for the Pentastar the part number is Wix-24048. Wix
filters has made this filter with an anti-microbial coating. At 5000 miles i noticed a moldy
smell, so I ordered a new Mopar filter only to find out on back order. So I
hunted down the ONLY aftermarket |
Tip:43
ETC Throttle
Calibration/Characterization:
Late LX/LC Model (5.7LTR HEMI) Charger/Challenger Throttle calibration procedure. It basically does a zero/span characterization for PCM
on fly-by-wire throttle system.
This procedure if followed correctly will hold until battery power is cycled
again.
Note that the throttle
body assembly itself performs a self-diagnostic (full open/close) prior
to every key-start.
PCM Zero/Span Throttle Calibration
Throttle Calibration can
substantially improve throttle
responsiveness over "factory standard."
Many people notice what appears to be sluggish throttle
response or a pedal "dead area" at initial accelerator depression.
Throttle calibration can take care of these.
Procedure steps:
1) Insert ignition key and turn to "ON" (not start).
2) Wait for all idiot lights to go out. Check Engine Light may remain on.
3) Slowly depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor.
(HOLD to the floor for
about a three second count.)
(On some PCM versions,
Check Engine light (CEL) may start flashing here)
4) Slowly release the accelerator pedal until it's all the way back up.
5) Turn the ignition key to "OFF".
6) Start the engine.
Many drivers notice an immediate change in throttle response, but depending on your
driving style, you may need to
repeat this procedure periodically due to the computer's (PCM) adaptive
programming.
NOTE: You will likely need to repeat this procedure any time the battery
is disconnected.
NOTE: This
procedure was a carry over from the LX (Charger) days
and seemed to work on some early model Challengers.
Some folks have seen this work on some Challengers and others have seen nothing
as far as any accelerator pedal characteristics.
With as many PCM software changes over the past several years, this procedure
may now do nothing whatsoever. Some
folks
say the whole thing is nothing but a myth.
Some folks swear that it has helped them in making the accelerator pedal
more
sensitive and more responsive.
Note the recent highlights from the Dodge
Challenger SRT Engineer Chat sessions;
Highlights
from 25 May 2011 - SRT Engineer Chat
Q: Technicians
and service personnel who work on these fine platforms daily have confirmed
there is no such thing as a “throttle recalibration” by
simply slowly depressing and holding
the accelerator pedal to the floor for a few seconds after key-on (no
start). However the procedure, and the
purported gains still permeate the
internet stating (for example) they experience better "throttle
response". The premise is that there is a hidden
procedure that allows an end-user to
alter or “recalibrate” their FBW throttle system (we are aware that the
throttle body performs a self-diagnostic, full
open/close, prior to every
key-start).
Care to somehow put a stake in this rumor
once and for all?
A: There is a throttle recalibration
on the ETC (Electronic throttle Control) that can be run as a subroutine when
in diagnostic
mode (hooked up to StarScan/StarMobile). No such means of doing this without a
engineering/dealership hook up into OBD port.
Tip:44
Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS).
VTSS – Vehicle Theft Security System, from the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual
Pg. 18 - THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE STARTING YOUR
VEHICLE
VEHICLE SECURITY ALARM
The Vehicle Security Alarm monitors the vehicle
doors for unauthorized entry and the ignition switch for unauthorized
operation. If something triggers the
alarm, the Vehicle Security Alarm will prevent the vehicle from starting and
provide the following audible and visible signals: the horn will pulse; the
headlights will flash; the park lights will flash;
and the Vehicle Security Light in the instrument cluster will flash.
Rearming Of The System
If something triggers the alarm, and no action is
taken to disarm it, the Vehicle Security Alarm will turn the horn off
after three minutes, turn all of the visual signals off after 15 minutes, and
then the Vehicle Security Alarm will rearm
itself.
To Arm The System
Remove the key from the ignition switch and
either press a power door LOCK switch while the driver or passenger
door is open or press the LOCK button on the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE)
transmitter. After the last door is closed, or
if both doors are closed, the Vehicle Security Alarm will arm itself in about
16 seconds. During that time, the Vehicle
Security Light will flash. If it does
not illuminate, the Vehicle Security Alarm is not arming. In addition, if you
open a
door during the arming period, the Vehicle Security Alarm will cancel the arming
process. If you wish to rearm the
Vehicle Security Alarm after closing the door, you must repeat one of the
previously described arming sequences.
NOTE:
• The driver’s door key cylinder and the trunk button on the RKE transmitter
cannot arm or disarm the
Vehicle Security Alarm.
• The Vehicle Security Alarm remains armed during trunk entry.
Pressing the TRUNK button will not disarm the
Vehicle Security Alarm. If someone
enters the vehicle through the trunk, and opens any door, the alarm
will sound.
• When the Vehicle Security Alarm is armed, the interior power
door lock switches will not unlock the doors.
The Vehicle Security Alarm is designed to protect
your vehicle; however, you can create conditions where the
Vehicle Security Alarm will give you a false
alarm. If one of the previously-described arming sequences has
occurred, the Vehicle Security Alarm will arm regardless of whether you are in
the vehicle or not. If you remain
in the vehicle and open a door, the alarm will sound. If this occurs, disarm
the Vehicle Security Alarm.
If the Vehicle Security Alarm is armed and the
battery becomes disconnected, the Vehicle Security Alarm will
remain armed when the battery is reconnected. The
exterior lights will flash, the horn will sound, and the
ignition will not start the vehicle. If this
occurs, disarm the Vehicle Security Alarm.
Tamper Alert
If something has triggered the Vehicle Security
Alarm in your absence, the horn will sound three times when you
disarm the Vehicle Security Alarm. Check the vehicle for tampering.
UNDERSTANDING YOUR INSTRUMENT PANEL
21. Vehicle Security Light — If Equipped
This light will flash at a fast rate for
approximately 15 seconds, when the vehicle security alarm is arming, and
then will flash slowly until the vehicle is disarmed.
Note:
See also Tip:70_Locking Challenger without enabling VTSS
(Alarm)
Tip:45
MDS Reset & Calibration
1)
You need a fairly long, open, safe, straight road for a WOT run to about 35
mph.
2)
Get engine up to operating temp, engine running and car stopped place gear
selector in "[D]". Bump it to the Left until in "[1]"
display
in autostick mode.
3)
Turn off all electrical accessories (except lights if needed).
4)
Make a WOT run to 4500 RPM (about 35 mph), immediately remove foot from
accelerator and do not depress the brake, let the vehicle
coast with the throttle closed until the
vehicle speed is again at 35 mph or lower.
5)
Stop vehicle and place in "Park", verify all instrument cluster
warning indicators are off.
6)
Cycle ignition switch "Off" and back "On", but do not
immediately start engine.
7)
Hook up StarScan and clear DTC's.
8)
MDS calibration is now complete.
Note:
For
Tips on AUTOSTICK and how it
disables MDS see: Tip:151 Autostick mode
turns off MDS.
Tip:46
Smart Window Recalibration Procedure
Symptom:
Drivers side "smart window" stopped working and would go all the way
up too making it hard to close the door.
Use
the remote windows down option on remote.
USING
the FOBIK, do the following:
1) Push the unlock once then again and hold it,
the windows will go down.
2) Using door window button push/cycle window up
button 10 times and down 3 times.
Windows
should be recalibrated to open/close properly upon door exit/entry.
Also Note:
These
windows have a learn procedure because the drop down feature when the door is
opened. Sometimes they need to be
retrained if the module looses power.
With
the key on and the door shut and window up hold the window switch down all the
way till the window bottoms out.
Do
not release the button but hold in down for about 2-4 seconds. Then do the
opposite for the up part holding the button also at the top.
This
should retrain the window controller.
See
also Tip:91
Tip:47
HOAT & Oat Engine Coolants!
New for 2013 model
year!
See
info at end of this tip for new 2013 Challenger OAT coolant spec changes.
Chrysler has changed coolant spec for this 2013 model year and it is NOT compatible with HOAT (2009-2012) and probably will cause
confusion unless you understand the differences between previous HOAT and newer
OAT spec. You cannot mix OAT
with any brand of "GM Dexcool"
or the regular green type anti-freeze.
Note the new purple dye color for the OAT coolant
for 2013 model year!
Proceed
to this link for complete coolant information and
adding/changing coolant procedures.
Tip:48
Radio Identification Codes and Single or 6
Disc CD Player?
What
is your radio code on the bottom right REN, RES REQ?
REQ has a 6 disk changer. You need
to press the load button to choose a number (1-6) and pick an empty slot and
then install next disc.
RES is a single disk.
RER is a NAV unit
If the window sticker states 6 CD changer then Dodge should make good.
Tip:49
Key FOB?
Read the following
info FAQ:
Questions?
There's
a battery in this thing? Last couple of days I had to hit the un-lock button a
couple of times to get it un-locked. Any warning
of
a low battery?
Are
you stuck out in the cold with a dead battery? Will the car start? I'm looking
at the FOB and I don't see how you get inside it to
change
batteries.
Response 1:
There
is a battery in the FOB. No worries, if the FOB dies you can always use your
hard (valet) key to get in the car but you are screwed
in
trying to start it. There is a LOW
battery indicator warning which should come on in your dash display when
FOB begins to get low.
Just
because your FOBIK will not work does not mean it has a dead battery, read on.
Response 2:
If
the battery dies in the FOBIK, it will still start the car. The FOBIK doesn't
need a battery installed to start it in the ignition. The
transponder
in the FOBIK is energized by a large coil in the WIN (Wireless Ignition Node).
If the battery dies, only the RKE or keyless
go
functions will stop working. To remove
Start button, use small screwdriver and press the key button out from the
housing at
(bottom)
6 o'clock position. Insert the small end
into the WIN slot and use it just like a key.
To
open the FOBIK, just remove the valet key and use a screwdriver and put it
between the top and bottom housing where
the
valet
key was and twist, it will pop right open.
Response 3
From
the Challenger service manual ..."The FOBIK transponder cannot be adjusted
or repaired. If ineffective or damaged,
the entire
FOBIK
and RKE transmitter unit must be replaced." It should be covered under
your 3/36 warranty! The dealer should
have a remote
signal
strength tester to fully test the entire system. Once a FOBIK is "married" to a
vehicle electronically, there is no means to use it
on
any other vehicle or erase/reuse it.
Only the dealer can do this programming.
Response 4
The
Keyless Go system actually utilizes two controller modules and three separate
antenna. One is the WIN module and
one is the
PEM (Personal Entry
Module). The Keyless Go system works
under the KEELOQ encryption system ( see Tip:117
).
This
system uses a "rolling code" encryption and the FOBIK may on a rare
occasion become "un-synced" from the PEM module.
When
this happens the FOBIK will appear "dead" or have a dead battery,
when in fact it is just "out of sync" with the PEM module.
To
find out if this is the case, you will have to pop off the START BUTTON and
insert the FOBIK like a key and when doing so it
will
use the WIN module to sync the system's rolling code "counter".
Once
you have used the FOBIK as a key to start the vehicle, you can then remove it
after driving or whatever and see if you
can
now resume functions with the FOBIK. If
it works as normal, then this is what happened it lost sync with the
"rolling code encryption counter". If this continues on a frequent basis, have
the FOBIK checked by your dealer.
Also
use the other spare or second FOBIK (you should have two when purchasing the
vehicle) about every six months to keep it in sync as well.
NOTE:
The recommended replacement battery is one CR2032.
Here is a clip right from the Challengers Owner's
Manual!
Note: The battery access "door" is
actually the back half of the FOBIK case.
Warning! Warning! Warning!
Changing
the battery in a Keyless Go (FOBIK) can be a bit dangerous to the FOBIK if it
isn't done *very* carefully.
There
are 2 very small capacitors, right on the edge of the PCB. If not re-assembled properly
after changing the battery, you have
a
50-50 chance of breaking either one or both of these capacitors or the solder
joints that hold them to the PCB.
Because of this
very
problem, the PCB (printed circuit bd.) had to be re-designed to move these
components away from the edge.
If
you break/damage one, The FOBIK will still work with all functions except the
Keyless Go.
NOTE:
For more
information and pictures on this topic, see related tips below.
SEE ALSO: Tip:107 FOBIK (Key Fob) Repair and erratic operations
SEE ALSO: Tip:126 FOBIK
"TRAPPED" IN WIN (Wireless Ignition Node)
SEE ALSO: Tip:204 FOBIK (Key Fob) disassembly, battery change.
For those that would like a
step-by-step video to do this, click this link: How to Change the Battery in
the Dodge Challenger Key Fob - Tutorial
Tip:50
Automatic Unlock Doors on
Exit Programming
The Automatic Unlock Doors
On Exit feature can be enabled or disabled.
Refer to “Unlock Doors Automatically on Exit,” under “Personal
Settings (Customer Programmable
Features),” under “Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC)” in Section 4.
• When not using the EVIC, perform the following steps:
1. Enter the vehicle and close all doors.
2. Place the key in the ignition switch.
3. Within 15 seconds, cycle the ignition switch
between LOCK and ON and then back to LOCK four times ending up in the LOCK
position. However, do not start the
engine.
4. Within 30 seconds, depress the power door
UNLOCK switch to unlock the doors.
5. A single chime will indicate the completion of
the programming.
NOTE: If you do not hear the chime, it means that the system did not
enter the programming mode and you will need to repeat the procedure.
6. Repeat these steps if you want to return this
feature to its previous setting.
NOTE: Use the Automatic Unlock Doors On Exit feature in accordance
with local laws.2
Tip:51
Event Data Recorder (EDR): What you need to know!
The
Dodge Challenger has an electronic module called an ORC (Occupant Restraint Controller).
It is quite sophisticated in that self-checks itself in real time and
communicates with other electronic modules (SCM, TIPM, NGC). This is to ensure reliable operations in case
of a required airbag deployment.
For a
very detailed description of the OCR, look at this tip here; Tip:148 Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC)
In the event of an accident, your vehicle is designed to record
from up to 5-15 seconds of specific
vehicle data parameters (see the following list) in an event data recorder
prior to the moment of airbag deployment, or near deployment, and up to a
quarter second of high-speed deceleration data during and/or after airbag
deployment.
Link to info for EDR and speed calculation. Chrysler uses basically two different mfg of data module devices for event capture, TRW and Continental.
http://www.djdsafety.com/cmrsc21_edr_chrysler.pdf
The TRW module provides pre-crash data at 0.1 second intervals over a period of five seconds for a range of data elements that include:
· Vehicle speed (mph and km/h)
· Engine speed (RPM)
· Accelerator pedal position (%)
· Engine throttle position (%)
·
Brake application (on or off)
The Continental module provides these same data elements, but at 0.2 second
intervals.
Understand
that EDR data are ONLY recorded if
an airbag deploys, or nearly deploys, and are otherwise not unavailable.
Note: There is no continuing
"driver" monitoring and recording to use vehicle data in denying a
repair warranty claim(s).
Click
here for a detailed discussion of Chrysler/Dodge EDR function.
EDR data is personal and protected
information by law and requires a "search warrant" for law
enforcement to
retrieve any vehicle information/data.
More
recently, the agency mandated that all vehicles manufactured after September 1, 2011 that include EDRs
record a
minimum of 13 data points in a standardized
format. NHTSA said in its announcement that "in keeping with NHTSA's
current
policies on EDR data, the EDR data would be treated by NHTSA as the property of
the vehicle owner and would not be used
or accessed by the agency without owner consent."
Also a good article link below from
Edmunds on "Car
Black Box Recorders Capture Crash Data"
Note: Event Data Recorders may soon be
mandatory in all new vehicles by a 2014 Federal mandate. Here is a link below
to
to proposed new Federal Regulations and Docket
EDR NHTSA 2012-12 with operational requirements.
Car black boxes are in the news because the
National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) is proposing that all
automakers equip new consumer vehicles with the devices beginning in September
2014. It estimates the per-vehicle cost of
an EDR at $20, but the total costs to the industry would be $26.4 million,
taking into account technology improvements, assembly
costs, compliance and paperwork-maintenance costs, according to NHTSA.
Tip:52
Jump starting
Challenger - HowTo and Warnings:
Here is the correct procedure to "jump start" your
Challenger using another vehicle and connections on the under hood to do this.
Procedure is step-by-step with picture so review carefully and note the
warnings at the web link below.
http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/...HALLENGER.html
Tip:53
HOISTING: Challenger Lift Points, Proper-Safe
Hoisting
CHALLENGER
LIFTING POINTS
1 - DRIVE ON HOIST
2 - FLOOR JACK, VEHICLE EMERGENCY
JACK
3 - FRAME CONTACT LIFT (SINGLE POST)
3 - CHASSIS LIFT (DUAL LIFT)
3 - OUTBOARD LIFT (DUAL LIFT)
3 - FLOOR JACK
Refer to Owner's Manual provided with vehicle for proper emergency jacking
procedures.
WARNING: The hoisting and jack lifting points
provided are for a complete vehicle.
When the engine or rear suspension is removed from a vehicle, the center of
gravity is altered making some hoisting
conditions unstable. Properly support or secure vehicle to
hoisting device when these conditions exist. Failure to follow
these instructions may result in serious or fatal injury.
CAUTION:
Do not position hoisting device on any suspension component,
including the front or rear suspension cross members.
Do not hoist on the front and rear bumpers, the lower radiator cross member, or
the front engine mount.
Do not attempt to raise one entire side of the vehicle by placing
a floor jack midway between the front and rear wheels.
This practice may result in permanent damage to the body.
When properly positioned, a floor jack can be used to lift the vehicle and
support the raised vehicle with jack stands.
A floor jack or any lifting device must never
be used on any part of the underbody other than the described areas.
Here is a link below to a nice slideshow of
lift "jack points" in a pictorial style documentary;
http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o111/Joebagadonuts/On%20The%20Lift//?albumview=slideshow
Challenger Fluid
Capacities - SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION - SPECIFICATION:
Fuel Tank - V6 Engine 68 L (18 gal.)
Fuel Tank - V8 Engine 72 L (19 gal.)
Engine Oil* - 3.5 L 5.7L (6.0 qts.)
Engine Oil* - 5.7 L 6.6 L (7.0 qts.)
Engine Oil* - 6.1 L 6.6 L (7.0 qts.)
Cooling System - 3.5 L** 10.0 L (10.6 qts.)
Cooling System - 5.7 L** 13.8 L (14.6 qts.)
Cooling System - 6.1 L** 14.0 L (14.8 qts.)
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION:
Service Fill - NAG1 5.0 L (10.6 pts.) Overhaul Fill - NAG1 7.7 L (16.3 pts.)♦
Service Fill - 42RLE 3.8L (4.0 qts) Overhaul Fill -
42RLE 8.3L (17.6 pts)♦
♦Dry fill
capacity. Depending on type and size of internal cooler, length and inside
diameter of cooler lines, or use of an auxiliary cooler, these figures may
vary.
AXLE – REAR:
198 MM RII Axle 1.4L (1.5 qts.)
210 MM RII Axle 1.6L (1.7 qts.)
215 MM RII Axle 1.6L (1.7 qts.)
RECOMMENDED FLUIDS, LUBRICANTS AND GENUINE PARTS
ENGINE:
Component Fluids, Lubricants and Genuine Parts
Engine Coolant Mopar ® Antifreeze/Coolant 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula HOAT
(Hybrid Organic Additive Technology)
Engine Oil (3.5 Liter) Use API Certified engine oil. SAE 10W-30 is recommended.
Refer to the engine oil viscosity chart for the correct SAE grade meeting
DaimlerChrysler Material Standard MS-6395.
Engine Oil (5.7 Liter) Use API Certified engine oil. SAE 5W-20 is recommended.
Refer to the engine oil fill cap for the correct SAE grade meeting
DaimlerChrysler Material Standard MS-6395.
Engine Oil 6.1 Liter) Use API rated SL/CF full synthetic engine oil, such as
Mobil 1® . SAE 0W-40 is recommended.
Spark Plugs Refer to the Vehicle Emission Control Information label in the
engine compartment.
Oil Filter (2008-2013) 5.7L & 6.1L use Mopar #4884899AB (replaces
4884899AA) or equivalent.
Note: for 6.1L only
track and race use, you can use Mopar part #5038041AA (see availability here)
Fuel Selection (3.5 Liter) 89 Octane
Fuel Selection (5.7 Liter) 89 Octane
Fuel Selection (6.1 Liter) 91-93 Octane
CHASSIS:
Component Fluids, Lubricants and Genuine Parts
Automatic Transmission Mopar ® ATF+4 Automatic Transmission Fluid or equivalent.
Brake Master Cylinder Mopar ® DOT 3 and SAE J1703 or equivalent should be used.
Use only recommended brake fluids.
Power Steering Reservoir Mopar ® Power Steering Fluid + 4, Mopar ® ATF+4
Automatic Transmission Fluid or equivalent.
Rear Axle API Certified GL-5 SAE 75W140 Synthetic Gear Lubricant or equivalent.
CAPACITIES: DESCRIPTION U.S. Metric
Fuel (approximate)
3.5 Liter Engines (89 Octane) 18 gallons 68 liters
5.7 Liter Engines (89 Octane) 19 gallons 72 liters
6.1 Liter Engines ( 91-93 Octane) 19 gallons 72 Liters
Engine Oil-With Filter
3.5 Liter Engines (SAE 10W-30, API Certified) 6.0 qts.
5.7 liters
5.7 Liter Engines (SAE 5W-20, API Certified) 7.0 qts.
6.6 liters
6.1 Liter Engines (Mobil 1 0W40, API rated SL/CF full synthetic engine oil) 7.0
qts. 6.6 liters
Cooling System *
3.5 Liter Engines (Mopar ® Antifreeze/Coolant 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula) or
equivalent. 10.6 qts 10.0 liters
5.7 Liter Engines (Mopar ® Antifreeze/Coolant 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula) or
equivalent. 14.6 qts 13.8 liters
6.1 Liter Engines (Mopar ® Antifreeze/Coolant 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula) or
equivalent. 15.2 qts 14.4 liters
* Includes heater and coolant recovery bottle filled to MAX level.
For other vehicle specifications on all model years
2008-2014 are available at this link below:
http://www.allpar.com/cars/dodge/challenger/specifications.html
Tip:55
R/T and SRT Electrical
For those interested in the Electrical Distribution on your RT or SRT
and what fuse feeds what circuit(s). I have gleaned some
info
into a page to help out. I will be continuing to add to this page and will be
creating others in the future on more basics on
our
Challengers.
You can download the html document and associated pictures to a file area on
your computer. If you have not created a directory
for all
your Challenger tidbits, I highly recommend you do so.
There are two primary distribution centers. One up front under the hood to the
passenger side engine area called the IPM or TIPM
Integrated
Power Module, or Total Integrated Power
Module. And this unit contains a computer and is a network bridge
between
the
high and low speed data bus' (CAN-B and CAN-C) on the Challenger.
The other is located in the trunk area and is also called the PDC or
A
warning in the Service Manual says it should NEVER get wet. Well, duh!? Kinda like buying coffee at McDonalds now and
seeing
the warning on the Cup, HOT COFFEE?!
Here is a link to Electrical Distribution and Fuses.
http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/...T_RT-SRT8.html
Tip:56
TPMS TIPS:
Tire Pressure Monitoring System FAQ’s
Frequently
asked questions, updated information on part numbers and types of newer TPMS
sensors used on the late model Dodge Challengers.
Dodge Tire Pressure Monitor
System
See also: Tip:72 TPMS and Setting proper tire air pressures (cold)
Tip:57
Documents - Owner's
Manuals, Service Manuals, Dealer Brochures, Sales Documents, etc.:
Owner's Manuals in Adobe
.PDF format are available for downloading at the link below.
Enter your vehicle particulars
and navigate the menu to setup your document download.
2008-2012
Owners Manuals here online in Adobe PDF format;
Dodge Owner Documentation link: http://www.dodge.com/en/owners/manuals/
Dodge Challenger Service
Manual(s)
Tech Authority 2009
Challenger Service Manual
https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/Home.aspx
-
or -
2008 - 2009 Dodge Challenger Service Information CD
(English)
Also from Service Repair Manuals (SRM)
http://servicerepairmanuals.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=1079
2010 Service Repair Manual – 74.99
2012 Service Repair Manual – 82.99
2013 Service Repair Manual – 84.99
SRM
Service 2009 Challenger Service Manual
2009 DODGE CHALLENGER. ENGINES: 3.5L V6
HIGH OUTPUT, 5.7L V8 HEMI, 6.1L SRT HEMI V8.
http://servicerepairmanuals.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=3&products_id=1038
MyGig
Manuals
2008 MyGig REN Owners
Manual (pdf 12.1 MB)
2008-2009 MyGig RER Owners Manual (pdf 27.8 MB)
MyGig RER Quick Tips (pdf 1 MB)
Other Misc. Documents
2006 Challenger Concept Press Release (pdf
16 MB)
2008 Challenger Parts Manual (pdf 4.6
MB)
2008 Challenger Press Release and Specs (pdf
.08 MB)
2009 Challenger Accessory Quick Reference Guide (pdf 3.1 MB)
2009 Challenger Sales Brochure - 1 (pdf
1.5 MB)
2009 Challenger Sales Brochure - 2 (pdf
1.9 MB)
2009 Challenger Buyers Guide and Specs (pdf
.3 MB)
2009 Challenger Press Release - Mopar Performance (pdf .01 MB)
2009 Challenger Press Release - R/T Classic - w/pics (pdf 3.5 MB)
2009 Challenger Press Release - SE Rallye
- w/pics (pdf 10.4 MB)
2009 Challenger Press Release - Crash Tests (pdf .01 MB)
2009 Challenger Press Release (pdf
.09 MB)
2009 Challenger Sales Consultant Pocket Guide (pdf 1.5 MB)
2009 Challenger Sales Consultant Product Guide (pdf .5 MB)
2011
Dodge Challenger SE/RT Specifications
2011
Dodge Challenger 392 SRT Feature Availability
Tip:58
2010 Owners Manual Addendum/Radio Fuse:
It states the manufacturer strongly recommends that the RADIO FUSE be removed whenever
the battery is
disconnected/reconnected or replaced. This will prevent
unnecessary damage to the radios electronics.
Apparently
arcing or making connections improperly to the battery can damage the Radio
electronics.
Having now heard of some instances in earlier models (2008-2009)
it would be wise to do this in earlier model
years as well as a precaution!
For those who might not be aware of which fuse, where this is;
Fuse 36, 20A YELLOW.
Picture at link below:
http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/...T_RT-SRT8.html
Tip:59
NAG1 DipStick and Transmission Level Checking:
Purchase
dipstick http://www.etoolcart.com/chrysler-dip-stick-gauge-9336-a.aspx
If you have a normally operating transmission with no visible external
leaks, a factory fill and you would like to have a
functioning dipstick where the StarScan
is not required, do the following:
You now have a way to
check your fluid level cold and hot.
Checking it with the engine at normal operating temperature is going to be your
most accurate way as the temperature that
the transmission oil is checked at is at a defined temperature (see step 6). I
would also recommend all the other common
steps when checking the transmission fluid such as - vehicle on
level surface, in park.....etc.
Factory Service Manual for NAG1:
For those who wish to see the LX/LC NAG1 FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL
procedure to do this using the dipstick, here it is as well.
CHECK OIL LEVEL
Verify the vehicle is parked on a level surface. |
2. |
Remove the dipstick tube cap. |
WARNING: |
There is a risk of accident from vehicle starting off by itself
when engine running. |
3. |
Actuate the service brake. Start the engine and let it run at
idle speed in selector lever position "P". |
4. |
Shift through the transmission modes several times with the
vehicle stationary and the engine idling. |
5. |
Warm up the transmission and wait at least two minutes. Check
the oil level with the engine running. |
NOTE: |
The dipstick protrudes from the fill tube when installed. |
NOTE: |
The true transmission oil temperature can only be read by a scan
tool with the transmission in REVERSE or any forward The
temperature of the transmission oil has a considerable effect on the shifting
time and therefore the shift quality. Refer
to the Transmission Temperature Sensor Specifications table for the
relationship between transmission temperature, sensor |
7. |
The transmission Oil Dipstick 9336 has indicator marks every 10
mm. With the transmission in PARK, determine the height of the oil level |
8. |
Add or remove the oil as necessary and recheck the oil level. |
9. |
Once the oil level is correct, install the dipstick tube cap. |
Are NAG1 Fill Levels
Critical?
On
filling and checking the NAG1, oh yes, they are VERY sensitive to the correct
fluid level.
Too little and you create foam by sucking air into the fluid, too much and the
fluid gets into the rotating assembly and foams the fluid.
Obviously,
foamy is a bad thing as it compresses where transmission fluid is
non-compressible.
Note: Refer to Tip:129 NAG1 TRANSMISSION FILL for more additional information on NAG1 fluid fill.
Note 2: See also Tip:179 WA580 (NAG1) Automatic Maintenance and Mercedes Parts
Tip:60
SKIPSHIFT:
Modification to eliminate the 1-4 shifting in manual transmissions.
Manual
Transmission, Skip shift operations;
According to the 2009 Dodge Challenger Owner's Manual, these conditions
are:
(1) Engine coolant (antifreeze) is higher than 106°F (41°C)
(2) Vehicle speed is >19 mph (30 km/h) but < 21 mph (34 km/h)
(3) Transmission is in first gear, and the accelerator is at 1/4 throttle or
less.
The 1–4 Skip Shift indicator
message will be displayed during these times.
While this may be fine and dandy to keep the Challenger from having a
"gas guzzler" tax applied, I found it a major nuisance as I'd be
looking
for 2nd gear only to be forced into 4th with the car bogging down a tad until
RPMs picked up. This also typically occurred while leaving a stop
light at a turn signal crossing traffic. Luckily this annoyance, I mean,
"feature" is easily remedied.
This skip shift is achieved by use of a solenoid on the transmission
which locks out the shift from 1st to 2nd much in the same way reverse is
locked out when the car is moving in a forward direction. This solenoid
relies on an electrical signal to activate, so adding a resistor of the
proper value inline with the solenoid's connection
will effectively prevent it from activating, thus eliminating the skip shit
feature.
Item purchased to
be installed into solenoid harness on transmission to disable “economy
shifting”.
(1) Skip Shift
Solenoid
(2) Rev Lockout Solenoid
I’m the guy that is always curious and
always has a question. For the skip shift solenoid you say its threaded into the
left side of the tranny case.
What would be your left here? From underneath with yo
and I do not want to end up placing it in the reverse lockout solenoid spot. I’m
trying to do this right the first time so I do not have to worry about
screwing something up!
Refer to item balloon (1) as the Skip Shift
Solenoid.
The “skip shift” is a transmission function that eliminates the
possibility of shifting into 2nd gear (and 3rd on most systems) from 1st gear
when you
are within certain parameters. It blocks your shift and forces you go into 4th
gear. Needless to say it is annoying but it serves it's purpose of dodging
the gas guzzler tax on the R/T's.
NOTE:
CEL code throwing upon addition of Skip Shift harness: P0803.
It's
the code you get on the 09 SRT8 (and probably others) for when the skip shift
harness is not connected or working properly.
Here
is a link to product and information on Skip Shift Device(s) for Challenger.
http://www.speedysgarage.net/challengerweb/challenger_mods/challenger_sse/challenger_sse.htm
Tip:61_
Challenger
HORN operations
Be advised that your Challenger vehicle HORN only
works when the vehicle is powered on. If
IGN or ACC is not turned on the vehicle HORN will not operate!
So if you are sitting in Walmart
parking lot and see someone backing into you and the vehicle is off, the HORN
will not operate!
Update for 2012-2013 models: Horn will now
operate without the engine running or key fob in vehicle.
Locking
GAS Cap
For those who like to have their vehicle secure, and
with the price of gas continuing to escalate you can add a locking gas cap to
the vehicle. This will also prevent
pranks or someone of evil intent on doing anything to the gasoline in the
vehicle as well. Have some peace of
mind. Advance Auto and Auto Zone carry a
good quality fit locking cap.
CST
(Cooling Systems Technologies) Auto Zone part #5907 (about $15.00)
Also Stant ST11508
(replaces previous p/n
ST10508) is the locking fuel cap part number that fits virtually every
Chrysler/Dodge car from 2001 - present.
They sell for between $10.00 - $24.00, depending on where you look.
NOTE: Don’t bother with Dodge/Chrysler’s locking
gas cap p/n 5278655-AB
CAP FUEL 1039001 (price $21.75.)
If you
press down hard on the cap and twist
it will come off without being unlocked!
Headlights On with Wipers (Available with
Auto Headlights Only)
When this feature is active, the headlights will turn on approximately 10
seconds after the wipers are turned on if the headlight switch is placed in the
AUTO (A) position. In addition, the headlights will turn off when the wipers
are turned off if they were turned on by this feature.
The Headlights On with Wipers feature can be enabled or disabled. Refer to
”Headlights On with Wipers,” under “Personal Settings (Customer-Programmable
Features)” under “Electronic
IPOD
Integration cable goes where?
Q: The owner's manual says plug it in the center console but I do not see any outlet. Where is it?
A: The cable does go in to the center console, open the center
console look in the front of it just beneath the coin holders and
to the driver's side you
should see a receptacle it will be under a plastic
cover. One will be a round cover to protect the 12V
Power Port and on the same forward
bulkhead will be a rectangular cover toward the driver side for the UCI port.
Q: I
don't see any other plug in my console other than the 12V Power Port plug?
A: You
must have the UCI option (part of the Electronic Options Pkg)
to have this port option feature. You
will also be provided
16-pin interface connector cable to
attach the iPOD unit as part of this option.
NOTE: 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual
UNDERSTANDING YOUR INSTRUMENT PANEL pg 218
UNIVERSAL CONSUMER INTERFACE (UCI) — IF EQUIPPED
NOTE: This section is for sales code RES and REQ/REL/RET radios only
with uconnect_. For
sales code RER, REN and REZ
touch-screen radio UCI feature, refer to the separate RER, REN or REZ User’s
Manual. UCI is available only if equipped as an
option with these radios. This feature allows you to plug an iPod_ into the vehicle’s sound
system through a 16–pin connector
using the provided interface cable.
UCI supports Mini, 4G, Photo, Nano,
5G iPod_ and iPhone_ devices. Some iPod_ software versions may not
fully support
the UCI features. Please visit Apple’s website for software updates.
NOTE:
• If the radio has a USB port, connecting an iPod_ to this port does not play
the media. For playing an iPod_, use the
separate
16–pin connector port located in the
center console.
• Connecting an iPod_ to the AUX port located in the radio faceplate,
plays media, but does not use the UCI feature to control the connected device.
Connecting The iPod_
Use the optional connection cable to connect an
iPod_ to the vehicle’s 16–pin
connector port located on the center console.
Once the iPod_ is connected and
synchronized to the vehicle’s UCI system (iPod_ may take a few seconds to connect), the iPod_ starts
charging and is ready for use by pressing radio switches, as described below.
NOTE:
• You may have to remove the connector pin protection cap from the
16–pin connector port, prior to connecting the cable.
• If the iPod_ battery is completely discharged, it may not
communicate with the UCI system until a minimum charge is attained.
Leaving the iPod_ connected to the UCI system
may charge it to the required level.
Tip:65_
HOT SURFACE WARNING - Under dash!
Thanks to Ken in Katy, Texas for this tip.
Has
anyone felt all that heat coming out from under the dash on the driver's side,
right above your right leg?
Nicely covered up by the carpeted protector lies the heater core piping. These
lines transition right over your leg as your foot sits on the gas pedal.
I hope they never leak or we will all end up with 1st degree burns! Couldn't Dodge the engineers find a better
route for the pipes?
This is definitely an accident or "BURN" waiting to happen.
Warning: Don't go in there after
you have run your car for a while, you will definitely get your hands burned if
you come in contact with them.
Originally Posted by heartlandvideo
Every once and awhile I can feel warm air
rising from under the dash, and I never knew where it might be coming from. Now
I know!
Time for some serious insulating mods. OK, I finally decided to do something about
the warm air coming out from under the dash.
Even though I usually only felt it with the windows down, it was annoying.
Living in Texas, more warm air is the last thing I need.
The first step was to buy the proper tool to remove the panel fasteners. It was
around $5 and made the job easy.
The
insulation panel under the dash comes out with only 2 fasteners.
Next
I wrapped the heater core tubing with 3/4" pipe insulation from Home Depot
(under $1) and secured it with cable ties.
I
drove around for almost two hours to test it out, and no more heat problems. My
only question is why in the world wasn't this insulated from the factory?
It seems running 200+ degree coolant into the cabin was bound to heat up
everything under the dash.
Anyway, problem solved.
Tip:66
Functional
Factory Hood Scoops for R/T’s
Full Description OEM functional hood scoop bezels Challenger SRT8
and R/T’s. These are the fully functional hood scoop bezels
that allow air to enter the engine compartment. Use these to replace the “dummy” hood scoops
on your R/T!
This includes both the LH and RH hood scoop bezel.
PT# 55399338AB
PT# 55399339AB
Here is
a link to a do it yourself video on easy installation of replacement hood
scoops for the dummies.
2009 R/T Functional hood Scoop Installation!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SePkQR--u1M
Also very
good installation information is available at this link as well! Functional
Hood Scoops
Tip:67
Challenger
Deluxe Splash Guards
For those who wish MOPAR brand for your Challenger here's the part
numbers. Protect wheel wells and lower
body.
MOPAR Splash Guards part numbers are:
Front - 82211683AC
Rear - 82211684AC
Alternate
source and style for fender guards!
Stealth Fender Guards
http://www.rpidesigns.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=1558
Tip:68
Where to Find Your Vehicle Manufacture Date
On the Challenger open the driver's side door and on the right of
the pillar or end of the door there is the MDH #.
The MDH # on the bottom
row of your door sticker stands for Month/Day/Hour
of vehicle manufacture.
Tip:69
Challenger
Spark Plug Info!
Spark
plug data, part information, etc. is LACKING completely in the Dodge 2009
Service manual under the 5.7L part information.
Yes, there is information in the Owner's Manual concerning this part but
it lacks the very specific and important TORQUE requirement.
Apparently the Dodge Service Manual DOES stress high importance
of proper spark plug torque when installing new plugs!!
Challenger Spark Plugs (note the different plugs for the different
engines)
HEMI 6.1L PLZTR5A-13 (Gap 0.050 in
[1.27 mm]) Torque to 12-14 Ft. lbs.*
HEMI 5.7L LZFR5C–11 (Gap 0.043 in [1.1 mm]) Torque to 12-14 Ft. lbs.*
* Torque critical tapered design. Do not exceed 15 ft. lbs. *
That warning on torque requirements is
something the Challenger owner's manual lacks.
NOTE:
Here is
a website with some good Spark Plug information applicable to our Challengers.
Bookmark it! http://www.wkjeeps.com/wk_sparkplugs.htm
Also, when complete on the spark plug change prior to starting up
the HEMI engine, you want to do a NGC (PCM)
computer RESET to allow the building
of a new "fuel table".
Otherwise, there is a good chance the engine will run like crap
when you first crank it up, and you will think there is a problem! Well, there might be a problem and it will be
fuel and timing related. Clearing the
PCM memory (Pull F2 or read Tip:39) will
speed the recovery of the engine fuel and timing aspects of PCM's electronic
control.
FYI, OEM spark plugs bought from Dodge, for
2010 (5.7L) Hemi are made by NGK so the below applies.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-0630111antisieze.pdf
For a DIY (Do It Yourself) write up!
To those who have tools (torque wrench,
etc.) here are two good procedure weblinks with
pictures, recommended parts list and important notes.
Changing
Spark Plugs on a GEN-3 HEMI
and
from Patrick
http://tootwrench.blogspot.com/2013/05/how-to-change-spark-plugs-2008-dodge.html
Tip:70_
Locking
Challenger without enabling VTSS (Alarm)
There will come a time when you want to lock the
vehicle but not engage or enable the VTSS Alarm System. The alarm system
does place a considerable amount of load on the
battery when enabled. So, to reduce
battery load and keep the vehicle locked
like inside a garage or secure facility, you can do
the following.
1) Open your door press the armrest lock and as you get out pull up the knob by the window and push it back down.
2) After closing the door look inside at your Dash left gauge and
make sure the red light (LED) is not flashing. If it is, use
the FOBIK to unlock the
door, open door and press the window door lock knob down again and check after
closing.
Your alarm system will be disabled!
TSB, RRT and RECALL’s (General terminology)
Q: Just
what is the difference in these?
Recall, Tech service bulletin, Rapid Response Transmittal?
A: Here are some general basic descriptions of the following
terms:
TSB:
A Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) is intended for dealers and auto
mechanics. A TSB will contain
information about
a common issue and information on how to correct it. Dealers use this information when dealing
with warranty service.
TSB information is maintained by the NHTSA.
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/
Rapid Response Transmittal:
A Rapid Response Transmittal is a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) but is
of a higher priority or importance than that
of a standard TSB. This also is intended for dealers and auto
mechanics. A normal TSB may or may not be implemented
in the course of a vehicle repair as it can and often is done at the discretion
of the dealer.
Unless the problem described in the TSB is identical to that of the complaint
or repair item, and the dealer/mechanic
looks for this situation or condition then usually the TSB is
followed. The RRT is of a higher level or importance here.
It informs the dealers and mechanics that a known problem exists
and that should look for conditions stated in the
RRT on new vehicles or/as they come in for service, or in
the case of the particulars of the RRT contact the owner
and have them bring the vehicle in for service at the earliest
convenience. Usually this is done to help dealer avoid
warranty work costs that will eventually come at a later date.
Recall:
Vehicle manufactures must recall a vehicle if it does not meet federally
mandated safety regulations or if there is a
major flaw in design. If there is a recall on your vehicle, a
dealer will inspect or replace the flawed components as
needed. DIYAutoTech has recall notices
dating back to 1966.
For a current up to date listing of Challenger TSB's, RRT's and
other technical informational releases
please see: Tip:153 Dodge Challenger TSB, RRT and Safety Recall
List
TPMS and Setting proper tire air
pressures (cold)
Q: Ok when the light came on it showed on
the screen 29 all around but that one was 28. I put some air in it and it went
up to 30. Light stayed on. Drove it
about 120 miles total, then parked it. Today I go run it and it shows 30 all
around but light still came on. Then as I drove it and stopped it going to the
store, came back and it showed 28 all around with light still on. Keep in mind
that the whole time the front right tire on the warming screen kept blinking on
that side. I've not done anything to the wheels, they are totally stock.
Someone said it could be a bad sensor.
A: [2009 Challenger Owner's
Manual pg 307]
The TPMS will continue to warn the driver of low tire pressure
as long as the condition exists, and will not
turn off until the tire pressure is at or above the recommended cold placard
pressure. Once the low tire pressure warning (Tire Pressure Monitoring [TPM]
Telltale Light) illuminates, you must increase the tire pressure to the
recommended cold placard pressure (32 psi) in order for the TPM Telltale
Light to turn off. The system will automatically update and the TPM Telltale
Light will turn off once the system receives the updated tire pressures. The
vehicle may need to be driven for up to
20 minutes above 15 mph (25 km/h) in order for the TPMS to receive this
information.
For example, your vehicle may have a
recommended cold (parked for more than three hours) placard pressure of 30 psi
(207 kPa). If
the ambient temperature is 68°F (20°C) and the measured tire pressure is 27 psi
(186 kPa), a temperature drop to 20°F (-7°C) will
decrease the tire pressure to approximately 23 psi (158 kPa).
This tire pressure is sufficiently low enough to turn ON the TPM Telltale Light.
Driving the vehicle may cause the tire
pressure to rise to approximately 27 psi (186 kPa),
but the TPM Telltale Light will still be ON. In this situation, the TPM
Telltale Light will turn OFF only after the tires are inflated to the vehicle’s
recommended cold placard pressure value.
TIP: Get an accurate tire pressure gauge AND Set
cold tire pressures to 32 psig (on driver door jamb label).
See also: Tip:56 TPMS
TIPS: Tire Pressure Monitoring System FAQ’s
FREE Mopar Desktop Screensavers!
Mopar
Screensavers - A collection of free Mopar screensavers featuring Chrysler, Dodge
and
Trucks for your computer. Each version features full screen Mopar related
images*. Designed for Microsoft Windows
Vista, XP, 2000, ME, 98 and NT.
Our
screensaver collection offers a fun, safe and easy way download Mopar related
screensavers. Collection Features
a great selection of high-quality and professionally designed screensavers. Each
screensaver in this collection has been
tested for quality and contains no adware, no spyware and is virus checked.
Plus the Mopar Ring does not require you to
register your e-mail to download or use our screensavers.
http://www.mopar-ring.org/screensavers/
Great Challenger Clothing, Jackets, Hats,
Tee shirts, Gifts and much more!
Shop
for unique gifts on CafePress! Find the perfect gift from our selection of t-shirts,
posters and more.
Plus find gifts that will fit any
budget. Tee shirts, Caps, hoodies, mugs, and much more just look at the
long list of vendor links below;
http://shop.cafepress.com/dodge-challenger?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&
Great Tee's here:
http://www.zazzle.com/dodge_challenger_t_tshirt-235732571490052809
http://www.thefind.com/apparel/browse-dodge-challenger-t~shirt
http://www.musclecarapparel.com/dodge-apparel-and-gifts/dodge-challenger-apparel.html
http://www.1maddmax.com/md234challenger09.html
http://www4.dealtime.com/-dodge+challenger+clothing
http://www.motorbrandsusa.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=W10-400-PLUMCRAZY
http://www.thet-shirtguy.com/JFPInt/challenger.htm
http://www.brickelsracing.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CF1087019
http://www.jimsautoparts.com/shirts_and_tee_shirts.htm
Jackets, Hats, Gloves, Shirts
and miscellaneous apparel are here:
http://www.zazzle.com/dodge+challenger+hats
http://www.newchallengerstore.com/Challenger_Products_Apparel_Hats_Gloves.htm
http://www.choko.com/browse_by_brand.php?category_id=5&scndctgry_id=8
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/products/New-Challenger-T-Shirts-And-Apparel
http://www.dodgerodeo.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=2&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=2
http://www.proracingshop.com/cat_dodge_jackets_shirts.cfm (custom embroidery available
here)
http://www.autotrucktoys.com/dodge-challenger/Dodge-Challenger-Hats-CAT5445.aspx
http://www.jimsautoparts.com/hats.htm
License Plate Frames,
Leather Steering wheel Gloves/skins, Floor Mats, Key Chains, valve caps, Dash
covers, etc.
http://www.cafepress.com/+dodge-challenger+license_plate_frames
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=Dodge+Challenger+License+plate+frame&_arm=1
http://clothing.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=Dodge+Challenger+Jacket&_sacat=11450&_dmpt=
http://www.storesonline.com/site/564545/product/Dodge%20Leather%20Steering%20Wheel%20Covers
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=dodge+challenger+accessories
http://www.afterthoughtsauto.com/srt8-challenger-mats.html
http://www.brickelsracing.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MH-1703&variation
http://www.high-end-motorsports.com/shop-by-vehicle-r-t-srt8.html
Temperature Sensor Support on HEMI Engine
Q: Anyone notice a difference in their water temps in the normal
EVIC mode and the "easter egg" mode?
Today I switched after
looking at the temp in the easter egg, it was 190
then I switched to normal and it said 203??
I think that is a big
enough difference to ask the question...WTF? Thanks!
A: Your question is easily answered
once we clarify some technical items first. What you are referring to is the
ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature)
Sensor.
(1.) There are not two ECT Sensors in the Challenger vehicle.
(2.) There are not two ECT Sensor displays in EVIC monitoring.
I believe you are confusing Engine Oil Temperature Sensor reading with the
Coolant (ECT) Sensor.
I don't particularly like using the term "Easter Egg" EVIC mode, as
technically it's no secret and it has no secret message(s) to convey, which the
term "Easter Egg" is primarily supposed to convey.
I like to use the terms Primary EVIC Display and Secondary EVIC
Display.
The Primary EVIC display is
documented to a limited extent, but the Secondary display mode is not on the
R/T model. I think this was either an
oversight or the software was left incomplete at the time of release for R/T,
and that is was not conveyed publicly. The SRT has this "complete"
secondary menu with several more functions that actually work. The latter actually makes a lot of more sense
to me. In the R/T you are not going to
get the complete software package as you get in the SRT8.
Ok,
what are we looking at?
If you are looking at a Temperature in the Primary Display it will be along
with the Oil Pressure Reading and note the Oil Can with drop ICON. The Oil Temp
Display has the same Icon. Since this is the Primary EVIC screen, it would make
no sense to duplicate an Engine Coolant Temp when you have a Big Analog Gauge
right there in front of you to the right.
In the Secondary EVIC mode, the ECT reading is on the same screen as
Speedometer, Battery Voltage and Digital Tachometer.
Now, when you start the engine up cold, the two temps (oil and coolant) will track
pretty close together up until the T-STAT opens. When I am watching my engine
operations (180T-Stat) I note that on the highway, the temps will read very
close during warm-up for about 4-5 min's maybe and then the oil will continue
to climb to anywhere from 8-12 deg.F higher before
stabilizing.
This make complete sense as oil would be more directly in contact with engine
parts and absorbing heat, etc. Note, the on the 5.7L HEMI, the ECT is right
there on the right of the lower TB housing, and on the 6.1L HEMI, the ECT is
over on the left front engine below the front coil pack just above the EOT
(oil) sensor.
So, maybe on the 6.1L the two
would track closer, being mounted within a few inches of each other.
Challenger SRT and RT Wheel Lug Info
2008-2010 (see below for 2011-2012 size change)
The
R/T and the SRT use the same factory hardened lug nut. Dodge p/n
06507826AA.
Lug Wheel pattern 5x115
Lug nuts thread 14mmx1.50 (Note Dim: A in
print below )
NOTE 1: Use a 21MM deep impact socket (6 point) to remove/replace lugs. A 12 point socket may correctly
fit but can and will cause damage to the factory lug nut finish as these use
high torque's.
NOTE 2: IMPORTANT!
R/T wheel lugs: Torque to 100 ft.lbs cold (135 N·m).
(Ref. Owner's Manual 2009 pg. 351,
section 6)
SRT wheel lugs: Torque to 110 ft.lbs cold (150 N-m). (Ref. 09 Challenger (LC) Service Manual, Sec 22.4)
Here is a OEM mechanical drawing
(2008-2010) of the lug nut below:
2011-2012
Challenger UPDATE!
Note: Looks now that the factory has made a change on
the OEM lug nut size for this model year.
The thread and taper are the same but the nut size has changed from 21 MM to 22
MM. Take note
that a 21 MM six
point socket will not fit and you are now required to use a 22 MM six point
socket.
Alternative
Lug Nut = Gorilla.
For those who want an alternative to OEM lugs, the next best thing or to many a
better option is GORILLA lugs.
Direct OEM Stock replacement (2008-2010): Use 21MM lug wrench! For later model years (2011-2012) you will
need to
go a size larger with 22MM.
14mm x 1.5mm conical seat, Bulge, 60
deg. Seat, set of 4, $ 7.39
Size Std closed end, 5 sets
needed.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GOR-91147/
Large/deep OEM stock replacement:
14mm x 1.5mm conical seat, Bulge, 60
deg. Seat, set of 4, $10.49
Size XL – Large Set, 5 sets needed.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GOR-91147XL/
Alternate vendor/source
Aftermarket Replacement Lugnuts; Gorilla
For OEM Dodge rims - yes. Research/Google these item numbers:
Gorilla Automotive 61147BCH Black Chrome Acorn Bulge Lug Nut (14mm x 1.50
Thread Size)
also; Amazon.com: Gorilla
Lug – 91147B-20 (Acorn Bulge/60 deg.)
If you need spec's or want reference Gorilla lug
nut documentation:
Gorilla Lug DOC link: http://www.gorilla-auto.com/pdf/GAG10.pdf
Have
Classic Wheels?
Need wheel locks? Exposed tapered lug
wheel lock kit #82210879 (Chrysler)
Again,
2011-2012 Challenger UPDATE!
Note: Looks now that the factory has made a change
on the OEM lug nut size for this model year.
The thread and taper are the same but the nut size has changed from 21 MM to 22
MM. Take note
that a 21 MM six
point socket will not fit and you are required to use a 22 MM six point socket.
How can I remove
the factory stripes on my R/T?
You can use a hair dryer on a warm day and remove decal
slowly. Afterward clean and hand wax out any residue that remains.
It came out great on my black R/T. If
your stripes have been on a while and you've seen a lot of sun, you may need to
take
additional steps to tackle fading issues depending on the color?
Goo Gone and other 3M type adhesive removers may aid on removing any residual adhesive.
Tip:78
DODGE Acronyms Glossary!
MOPAR = Motor Parts or
Chrysler Corporation Motor Parts Division
SE = Standard
Edition-Base Trim Level on the Challenger
RT or R/T = Road and Track- Mid Trim Level on the Challenger
SRT (Street and Racing
Technology) Top Trim on the Challenger
Acronym Glossary A/C Air Conditioning AAT Ambient Air Temperature ABM Antilock Brake Module ABS Antilock Brake System ACC Adaptive Cruise Control ACT Actuator AFLS Adaptive Front Lighting System AHBM Automatic High Beam Module AHLM Automatic Headlamp Leveling
Module AHM Auxiliary Heater Module ALS Active
lighting system (lights follow steering) AMP Amplifier APM Adjustable Pedal Module APPS Accelerator Pedal Position
Sensor APS Adjustable Pedals System ASCM Air
Suspension Control Module ASD Auto Shut Down ASBS Automatic Sway Bar System AT Automatic Transmission-Rear
Wheel Drive ATC Automatic Temperature Control ATF Automatic Transmission Fluid ATX Automatic Transmission-Front
Wheel Drive AWD All Wheel Drive AZC Automatic Zone Control BARO Barometric BCM Body Control Module BPS Bladder Pressure Sensor BSM Blind Spot Module BTS Belt Tension Sensor BTSI Brake Transmission Shift
Interlock BUX Built-Up Export CAB Controller Antilock Brake CAN Controller Area Network CAN IHS Controller Area Network -
Interior High Speed CCD Chrysler Collision Detection CCN Cabin Compartment Node CGW Central Gateway CHMSL Center
high mount stop lamp CKP Crank Position Sensor CKT Circuit CMP Camshaft Position Sensor CMTC Compass/Mini-Trip Computer CPA Connector Positive Assurance CTM Compass Temperature Module CVI Clutch Volume Index DAB Driver Airbag DC Direct Current DCHA Diesel Cabin Heater Assist DDM Driver Door Module DEF Diesel Exhaust Fluid DISP Display DLC Data Link Connector DMFL Door Module Front Left DMFR Door Module Front Right DMRL Door Module Rear Left DMRR Door Module Rear Right DOHC Dual Over Head Cam DR Door DRBIII Diagnostic Readout Box, 3rd
Generation DRV Driver DTC Diagnostic Trouble Code DTCM Drivetrain
Control Module EATX Electronic Automatic Transaxle EBL Electric Back Lite (Rear Window Defogger) ECM Engine Control Module (Diesel) ECT Engine Coolant Temperature
Sensor EGR Exhaust Gas Re-Circulation EMCC Electronically Modulated
Converter Clutch EOM Electronic Overhead Module EPS Electric Power Steering ESM Electronic Shift Module ETC Electronic Throttle Control ETS Evaporator Temperature Sensor EVBP Electronic Variable Brake
Proportioning EVIC Electronic Vehicle Information
Center FCM Front Control Module FCV Flow Control Valve FDCM Final Drive Control Module FEMCC Full Electronically Modulated
Converter Clutch FSM Folding Seat Module GCC Gulf Coast Countries GEN Generator GPEC Global Powertrain
Engine Controller HCU Hydraulic Control Unit HE Hall Effect HFM Hands Free Module HIDT High Intensity Discharge
Transducer HSM Heated Seat Module HVAC Heater Ventilation, Air
Conditioning I/C Integrated Circuit IAC Idle Air Control Motor IAT Intake/Inlet Air Temperature
Sensor ICU Integrated Control Unit ICS Integrated Center Stack IOD Ignition Off Draw IP Instrument Panel IPC Instrument Panel Cluster IPM Integrated Power Module IR Infrared IRT Intelligent Recovery Timer ISS Input Speed Sensor ITBM Integrated Trailer Brake
Module ITM Intrusion Transceiver Module JBLK Junction Block JTEC Jeep & Truck Engine Control
Module KDB2 Keyboard Data Bus, 2nd
Generation KNB Knee Blocker Airbag KS Knock Sensor LDP Leak Detection Pump LDU Lower Drive Unit LED Light Emitting Diode LIN Local Interconnect Network LHD Left Hand Drive LR Low/Reverse Clutch or
Pressure Switch LRSM Light Rain Sensor Module LT Left LU Lockup MAP Manifold Absolute Pressure
Sensor MDS Multi Displacement System MIC Mechanical Instrument Cluster MIL Malfunction Indicator Lamp MLS Multi Layer Steel MSMAPM Memory Seat/Mirror/Adjustable Pedals
Module MSMD Memory Seat Module MT Manual Transmission-Rear
Wheel Drive MTC Manual
Temperature Control MTV Manifold Tuning Valve MTX Manual Transmission-Front
Wheel Drive MUX Multiplex NAV Navigation NGC Next Generation Controller NVLD Natural Vacuum Leak Detection O2S Oxygen Sensor OAT Outside Air Temperature OBD On Board Diagnostics OBD-I On
Board Diagnostic specification 1 (1991-1995) OBD-II On
Board Diagnostic specification 2 (1996 and up) OCM Occupant Classification Module OCS Occupant Classification System OCSVR Occupant Classification System
Verification Required OD Overdrive Clutch or Pressure
Switch ODO Odometer ORC Occupant Restraint Controller OSS Output Speed Sensor P/M Pump Motor PAB Passenger Airbag PASS Passenger PCI Programmable Communication
Interface PCM Powertrain
Control Module PCV Positive Crankcase Ventilation PDC Power Distribution Center PDM Passenger Door Module PEM Passive Entry Module PEMCC Partial Electronically Modulated Converter
Clutch PEP Peripheral Expansion Port PLG Power Liftgate PLGM Power Liftgate
Module PLU Partial Lockup PSD Power Sliding Door PSDM Power Sliding Door Module PSDML Power Sliding Door Module Left PSDMR Power Sliding Door Module Right PSM Programmable Special Module PSI Pounds Per Square Inch PTCM Power Top Control Module PTIM Police and Taxi Interface
Module PTS Parktronics PWM Pulse Width Modulated PWR Power RCM Roof Control Module REV Reverse Clutch RF Radio Frequency RHD Right Hand Drive RKE Remote Keyless Entry RT Right RTV Room Temperature Vulcanizing RX Receive S/C Speed Control SAB Seat Airbag SAS Steering Angle Sensor SBEC Single Board Engine Controller SBM Switch Bank Module SBS Seat Belt Switch SBT Seat Belt Tensioner SCA Shift Cover Assembly SCM Steering Control Module SCCM Steering Column Control Module SDAR Satellite Digital Audio Receiver SDARV Satellite Digital Audio Receiver
Video SKIM Sentry Key Immobilizer Module SKIS Sentry Key Immobilizer System SKREEM Sentry Key Remote Entry Module SKREES Sentry Key Remote Entry System SLPK Solenoid Pack SOHC Single Over Head Cam SOL Solenoid SRS Supplemental Restraint System SRV Short Runner Valve SSV Solenoid Switch Valve SUNR Sunroof SW Switch SWS Seat Weight Sensor TCC Torque Converter Clutch TCCM Transfer Case Control Module TCM Transmission Control Module TCS Traction Control System TGW Telematics
Gateway TIP Throttle Inlet Pressure TIPM Totally Integrated Power
Module TIRM Traffic Information Receiver
Module TM Trailer Module TP Throttle Position TPM Tire Pressure Monitor TPMS Tire Pressure Monitor System TPS Throttle Position Sensor TRD Torque Reduction TRS Transmission Range Sensor TX Transmit UD Underdrive
Clutch VES Vehicle Entertainment System VFD Vacuum Fluorescent Display VPWM Variable Pulse Width Modulated VSIM Vehicle System Interface Module VSS Vehicle Speed Sensor/Signal VTSS Vehicle Theft Security System WCM Wireless Control Module WIN Wireless Ignition Node WOT Wide Open Throttle WSS
Wheel Speed Sensor Now
in addition, there will be terms normally used in automotive articles and conversation
that might not be familiar to you, such as "unsprung
weight", so you can go to this link below to see more definitions and
tips for terms used. http://www.lateralg.org/tips/defs.htm
|
What is the Best Oil Filter for our Challenger?
Well, there are a lot of good paper element based filters on the
market, Purolator PureONE, Mobil 1 Extended
Performance, Purolator L14612 Classic Oil Filter, WIX, AmSOIL,
and Baldwin to name a few here.
The PureONE consistently performs at the top when it comes to
filtering capability. The paper/fiber element has more filtering material and
surface area than other filters and internal construction is very good. There
are some concerns about oil restriction because the filter element is so dense,
and if you have a high performance engine you may be better off with the more
expensive Mobil 1 oil filters. However, the PureONE’s
excellent filtering capability, high quality construction, and affordable price
make it a top overall pick.
Though
I should note that Chrysler (or was it Ford) did some testing a couple of
decades ago which showed that there were measurable long term wear benefits to
filtering particles smaller than 9 microns, which is considerably smaller than
what we normally worry about. (Pure One is nominally rated at 5 microns. Far
better than any other filter of which I am aware.)
Note: AmSOIL EA files comply
with ISO
4548-12
of 98.7 percent at 15 microns, and Purolator does not advertise adherence or
compliance to ISO 4548-12.
For size reference,
the average human blood cell width is approx 7-8 microns
The P1's official
filtration specs:
40 Micron: 100%
30 Micron: 100%
25 Micron: 100%
20 Micron: 99.9%
15 Micron: 99.2%
10 Micron: 92.8%
5 Micron: 51.3%
Q: What is the "Best" Oil Filter
available for Challenger!
A: Amsoil (EA011)
This information comes straight from AMSOIL
Tech Service. Amsoil has recently released a new
filter for the Dodge Challenger. The part number is EAO11.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eao.aspx?zo=5931
5.7L, 6.1L Hemi
2009-2012
|
|||||||||
[1]
Replaces the EaO48, which will still work for this vehicle |
AMSOIL Ea Oil Filters
• Ea Filters
designated with product code Ea15K are recommended for 15,000 miles/one year,
whichever comes first, in normal or severe service.
• Ea Filters designated
with product code EaO are recommended for 25,000
miles/one year, whichever comes first, in normal service or 15,000 miles/one
year, whichever comes first, in severe service
Challenger 2008-2012
(5.7L/6.1L) 25,000-Mile Ea Oil
Filter (EAO11)
AMSOIL
Ea Oil Filters (EAO) have the best efficiency rating in the industry. EaO Filters provide a filtering efficiency in accordance
with industry standard ISO 4548-12 of 98.7
percent at 15 microns, while competitive filters containing conventional
cellulose medias range from 40 to 80 percent efficiency. Again, for reference the size of a human
blood cell is 7-8 microns. Although the
EA048 has a very high mileage rating, I tend to change filters with oil changes
to synchronize events.
Web Link to your local suppliers:
http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/links/Amsoil%20Links.htm
Note Also:
Look at installing a Fumoto Oil Drain
Valve as part of your oil changing modifications.
This is explained in detail in Tip:141 Fumoto Oil
Drain Valve on Dodge Challenger
Q: How can one maximize the oil filtration
to trap possible metallic particle debris (engine wear)?
A: What I do is another level to the AMSOIL
filtering system as I add both a magnetic oil plug, FilterMag
filter magnet and a transmission pan magnet to capture all possible metallic
particle shed in these lubrication systems; See also Tip:158 FilterMag, Trans Pan Mag and Magnetic
Oil Plug systems.
How
to Adjust When Auto HID Headlights Turn On
For
those who have the EVIC option, you can do the following if your HID
adjustments are coming on too late (too dark) for
your
personal preference.
1) IGN Key on. Doesn't matter if the
engine is running or not.
2) Hold the Compass and Music note key
simultaneously for about 5-7 seconds
3) Move the up arrow (or down arrow if
you prefer) on the left hand side of your steering wheel.
For this exercise, we will be toggle
the "up" arrow
4) First stop is a digital tachometer
and some other digital sensor readings.
5) Next toggle is Temp and a Chinese
character.
6) Next toggle is Compass digital
readings
7) Next toggle is MinL
and MinR stuff. This is values associated with left
and right fuel tank
levels in pints (i.e. value divided by 8 =
gallons)
8) Next toggle is your headlight sensor
adjustment page.
On
the left hand side of your steering wheel, you can adjust the HID sensitivity
(when it comes on automatically) in units of 2.
You
adjust with the arrow that points to the right on the left side of your
steering wheel.
I believe this is a lumens unit but don't hold me to that. Anyway, the factory
setting in the SRT's is 180. You can only scroll
upward
in units of 2 until you get to 220, then the next number is 150.
From 150, keep scrolling the numbers higher until you hit 170. That setting
works really well- the HID's will come on sooner
but not too soon. They'll turn on deep
inside a car wash, but turn off of course at the exit.
Wireless
USB Dodge Challenger Computer Mouse!
Dodge Challenger Series Car Mouse. Cruise the Web
in Style with Road Mice's Wireless Optical Mouse with USB receiver utilizing
the latest RF and optical technology. These unique
mice are high performance accessories with 800-dpi resolution for enhanced
accuracy and precision movement. PC and Mac
compatible. Road Mice's car mouse designs have the look of a replica automobile
and the functionality of the best pointing devices
on the market.
The functioning headlights and smooth lines give
the car a realistic look and feel. A must have for car enthusiasts and
collectors.
http://roadmice.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RM-08DGCLOXK&Category_Code=DODGE_MICE
Current colors are HEMI Orange, Grey, Deep Water Blue
Tip:82
2009 Dodge Challenger R/T:
Suspension Walk Around Informational Article (Edmunds)
There's
more to the 2009 Dodge Challenger than a retro body and a 5.7-liter Hemi V8.
It's got a modern suspension inside those
full-figured
wheel wells, and there are a couple of surprises.
More
great information on R/T suspension from Edmunds at:
http://blogs.insideline.com/roadtests/2009/05/2009-dodge-challenger-rt-suspension-walkaround.html
Vehicle Build Date
Q: How
can you tell the exact date your car was built? I don't see it anywhere on the
window sticker.
A: Open driver's
side door and look on right of the pillar or end of the door. Look for MDH number.
The MDH # on bottom row of your door sticker stands for: Month/Day/Hour of
manufacture.
Speedometer Verification
(Extended EVIC)
Verification of the following items:
Total
Engine Runtime Hours (Driving)
Total Engine Runtime Hours
(Idle/sitting)
To gain access you need to have an
extended EVIC operation.
1) The engine must not be running. Have
it in accessory mode
2) Press/hold Compass and Music note for
6 seconds to gain access to extended EVIC.
3) Navigate to any area that shows the
miles on the car.
4) Now press and hold the "trip
reset pin" for 8-10 seconds.
A) The first item displayed is labeled Hrs.
This number is the total engine hours
(it does not include accessory modes). This information is used to compare
engine damage for
warranty claims and graphed to show patterns or trends. Also to show if the
speedometer was un-plugged to keep the mileage down.
B) Press the "trip pin again" and the next labeled item is Idle.
This is the total amount of time the engine was
running and the car was not in motion.
Example: Stopped in traffic, letting the car warm up etc.
PCM SETTINGS KEEPER
Changing out battery, steering angle sensor and use of a
"SETTINGS KEEPER" type device.
Temporarily keep minimum power on vehicle 12v BUS for a short time while doing
required battery or wiring maintenance.
DISCLAIMER: BATTERIES ARE VERY DANGEROUS, PROCEED AT YOUR
OWN RISK.
1) Go to your locate auto parts store
and ask for a "settings keeper", which is a cable type adapter which
uses a standard 9 volt battery and
plugs into your ACTIVE 12v accessory
port. (NOT THE SWITCHED ONE) . Active
Plug/Port on Challenger is inside the center console.
NOTE:
Do not leave doors open (dome light load) and if the trunk Lid is going to be
up for a long time, remove the
trunk light bulb temporarily while
using settings keeper.
2) Disconnect battery
(Always disconnect the NEGATIVE (BLACK)
FIRST and then Positive post if changing battery out. Continue with any
change in wiring, battery or
whatever work is required then on connecting up new battery, hook up Positive
post and then NEGATIVE LAST).
3) Reconnect ALL connections. Restore any removed trunk light bulb(s).
4) Remove/unplug
"settings keeper" device.
You are done and will not have lost any settings in the computer (ECM/PCM),
Radio, or other vehicle devices that are wiped when vehicle battery
power is removed.
Some Vendor
Links: Local Advance Auto or online at:
http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=GK504&cat=GDT
http://www.starsurplus.com/viewitem.lasso?i=GK504
Dodge Challenger Instrument Cluster
"Self Test" Procedure (LX/LC)
If an individual hardwired gauge or indicator is
inoperative, refer to the diagnosis and testing service
information for that specific gauge or indicator. If an individual Controller Area Network
(CAN) data bus
message-controlled gauge or indicator is inoperative, perform the Actuator Test
as follows:
PERFORM ACTUATOR TEST
The instrument cluster actuator test
puts the instrument cluster into its self-diagnostic mode.
In this mode the instrument cluster can performs a self-diagnostic test that
confirms that the
instrument cluster circuitry, the gauges, and the indicators are capable of
operating as designed.
During the actuator test the instrument
cluster circuitry will positions each of the gauge needles at various
calibration points and illuminates all of the segments in the Vacuum
Fluorescent Display (VFD) units.
Successful completion of the actuator
test confirms the instrument cluster is operational.
However, there may still be a problem
with the CAN data bus, the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM), the
Front Control Module (FCM), the Transmission Control Module (TCM), the Occupant
Restraint Controller (ORC), the
Controller Anti-lock Brake (CAB), or the hardwired inputs to one of these
electronic control modules.
Use a diagnostic scan tool to
diagnose these components. |
MyGig Nav System Voice
Tip
Courtesy of
Spin2Win. New trick I discovered the
other day. Was trying to turn up the radio while the NAV system was speaking.
Found that the radio did not get louder but she did. Did some experimenting.
When the NAV system is giving directions thru the speaker(s), if you adjust the
volume it shows "NAV Volume" on the radio display
and does not affect the radio volume. Selecting RPT will also give you
additional time to adjust the voices.
Mopar Electrical Connectors and Repair Kits
site
All of us at one
time or another will have a need to repair an electrical connector, pins,
wiring or replace the connector on the harness due to some kind of damage.
It can be tough to
identify the connector and ensure that the kit or part you want to order is in
fact what you do need. Here is a website that will help in locating
specific connectors
on the Challenger frame and cross referencing the item to a MOPAR part for
repair kit or replacement. Your browser
will need to specific
plug-ins to work properly
here to view graphics.
You may need two plug‐in’s for your internet browser called Whip and SVG. Click on the
links below and download the executable files to a location on
your PC. Once they
are downloaded double click the install files and then restart your browser.
Whip is for some of the older model year graphics and
SVG is for the newer model year graphics.
http://dto.vftis.com/wired/whip4.exe
http://download.adobe.com/pub/adobe/magic/svgviewer/win/3.x/3.03/en/SVGView.exe
The site's FAQ link
is good if you have never visited the site before and you can search on
keywords like "sensor" and "coolant" and
"temperature" to find
specific types of
connectors on the vehicle frame. For
instance, I searched on "sensor" and got a list of sensor plugs and
found two important connectors that
have been easily
damaged during "mod" sessions.
Engine Coolant Temp and IAT (Intake Air Temp) Sensors.
Pictures shown
below are for Challenger 5.7L Hemi engine.
I can order through
MOPAR parts distributors a repair kit #05014003AA
to replace this IAT connector. Likewise, I can order #68064995AA to replace the
Engine Coolant
Sensor plug as well. If you know
anything about the nomenclature of the plug you are looking for, you should be
able to search and find it.
Proceed to this
site below and enter Model Year and Type Frame.
MOPAR Wiring Harness Service Connector
Manual
http://starparts.chrysler.com/starlibrary/marketing/conkits/connectorkits_navigation.htm
Click on the number of pins and you will
find pictures, as well as the harness kit number
Please note the additional resource links
on the left of the website also:
Table of Contents
Wiring Repair
Wiring Repair Splice Requirements
--------------------------------------
Mopar
Connector Repair Kits
http://connectors.dcctools.com/home.htm;jsessionid=A33374E02C263DC1CA71B449E7DDA9D4
You can do a lookup by vehicle, or by kit
number. If you look up by kit number you will get a list of all vehicles the
kit applies to.
Dodge Challenger
CAN BUS Databus Communications Modules
What is a CAN BUS?
Chrysler has started using a
"Controller Area Network"
(CAN) Bus for intercommunication between most every system in at least 6
vehicles or more vehicles:
2004+ Dodge Dakota
2005+ Chrysler 300, Dodge Magnum, Dodge Charger ( All LX line vehicles )
2005+ Jeep Grand Cherokee
2006+ Dodge Ram Trucks
2008+ Dodge Challenger (All LC line vehicles)
There are 3 separate CAN
buses in these vehicles.
-[CAN-C] Engine / Critical systems CAN Bus ( Engine, Transmission,
Anti-Lock brakes, ESP, etc.. )
-[CAN-B] Interior Comfort CAN Bus ( Climate Control, Car Audio system, Dash
cluster, EVIC, etc.. )
-[Diagnostic CAN-C] Diagnostic CAN Bus ( Has the capability of pulling service
codes from the other two buses, but not directly connected to either )
In
2006, over 70% of all automobiles sold in North America will utilize CAN Bus
technology. Beginning in 2008, the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE)
requires 100% of the vehicles sold in the USA to use the CAN Bus communication
protocol while the European Union has similar laws. Several new aftermarket
devices have been introduced into the market that utilize the CAN Bus protocol
but until now, there have been no new devices that assist the aging after
market remote starter and alarm system technology.
Now
there is an aftermarket module that offers remote starter and alarm connectivity
to the CAN Bus communication protocol.
Here
is a link to more information on Dodge Challenger CAN BUS operations below.
The Official and Unofficial MyGIG Information
Site's
Keep
your MyGIG and NAV system updated with downloading,
extracting and burning guide along with software installation guides and more.
If you have the
MYGIG/NAV system, you can download the updates here. You can get both the
System software updates as well as the song database updates.
Save a day at the dealership!
and
Dodge's official site on "How MyGig works";
http://www.dodge.com/en/owners/mygig/
Note the following quick tips and MyGig hardware and software accessories;
MYGIG LOCKPICK
● ● ● ●
A must for everyone
that has a mygig.
The Lockpick does so many things like allowing you to
watch DVD while driving, NAV in-outs, REV Camera, rear views.
● DVD PLAY WHILE IN MOTION.
● SAT TV ON FRONT SCREEN WHILE IN MOTION (IN EQUIPPED VEHICLES).
● NAVIGATION ADDRESS INPUT WHILE IN MOTION (IN EQUIPPED VEHICLES).
● UNLOCK EVEN DEALER BLOCKED VIDEO - EVEN IF YOUR VIDEO BUTTON IS NEVER
VISIBLE.
THE LOCKPICK WILL EXPOSE AND UNBLOCK IT.
● TURN ON BACKUP REVERSE CAMERA INPUT FOR AFTERMARKET INSTALLATIONS.
● TURN ON FACTORY REVERSE CAMERA AT ANY TIME, EVEN IN DRIVE IF DESIRED.
● TURN ON VES (REAR ENTERTAINMENT MODE) IN NON EQUIPPED VEHICLES -
ENABLES
A VIDEO AND AUDIO INPUT FOR YOUR IPOD, IPHONE, COMPUTER, OR
VIDEO GAME.
● AUX INS UNLOCKED IN VES EQUIPPED VEHICLES WHILE IN DRIVE.
● UCONNECT AND VOICE RECOGNITION ENABLED ON NAV RADIOS - JUST ADD A
MICROPHONE.
AND YOU ARE READY TO GO SEE MICROPHONE OPTION HERE.
● NO SWITCHES TO ADD - USES FACTORY RADIO BUTTONS.
● NO LOSS OF NAVIGATION USE WHILE UNLOCKED - VOICE COMMANDS AND MAP
TRACKING
UNAFFECTED - EVEN WHILE VIDEO IS VIEWED.
● ACC POWER OUTPUT PROVIDED FOR YOUR AFTERMARKET POWER NEEDS - TURNS OFF
WHEN YOUR CAR TURNS OFF.
● PROGRAMMABLE DIP SWITCHES TO ENABLE OR TURN OFF SPECIFIC FUNCTIONS.
● NO CUT WIRES - 15 MINUTE INSTALL WITH PLUG AND PLAY FACTORY CONNECTORS.
● GREAT FOR LEASED CARS!!
● WORKS WITH ALL MYGIG RADIOS - ADVANCED UNIVERSAL COMMUNICATIONS.
● Available at http://www.coastaletech.com
in the USA or http://www.dodge-downunder.com
in Australia, NZ and Asia
NOTE:
Also is NAVTOOL for those who want these options;
MyGig NAVTOOL
LINK: http://www.navtool.com/challenger.aspx
My Gig Lockpick (Software)
Programming for 99$.
OVERVIEW:
This programming service is for those who wish to have DVD movies and
navigational control of the MyGIG receiver while
in-motion.
(Navigational control only applies to MyGIG
navigation receivers) This service costs less than the physical Lockpick harness and does
not require any installation by the user.
- Great cost effective way for you gain
control over your MyGIG receiver while in-motion. -
FEATURES:
- Works with all high speed and low speed MyGIG
receivers
- Automatically allows for DVD Play while in-motion
- Automatically allows for Sirius® Satellite TV on front screen while in
motion! (if equipped)
- Automatically allows for navigation address input while in-motion (if
equipped)
LINK: http://www.oemautopartsco.com/mygig-...ing-p-146.html
Quick
Tips!
Quick
Tip from Tat2dwiseguy on using USB port on MyGig
Unit(s)
Tip - Discovered
yesterday (out of desperation) that I could use my USB data cable to charge my
BlackBerry from the USB port in my RER MyGig unit!
Long story short, lost my car charger and ran my battery down (taking pics and video at the SRT Experience). Needed the phone for
the ride home and
figured I would try
plugging the cable into the provided USB port on the radio/Nav
unit. Sure enough, the charge indicator lit up!
No need for expensive car chargers and extra cables! AND I can transfer images
and music from the memory card on the BlackBerry!
RER 730N media
system Info
The
original Media Center 730N (RER) was a CD/DVD/MP3/HDD radio with 6.5"
touch screen, GPS Navigation, 30GB hard drive, Sirius Satellite Radio, Sirius
Traffic, Album Artwork, Hands Free Phone, Voice Command of Radio &
Navigation and iPod Control.
The Media Center 730N (RHR) has the features of the original (RER) with the
addition of Sirius Travel Link, USB iPod Control w/Voice Command, Bluetooth
Streaming Audio and Hands Free Texting. The Media Center 730N (RHR) is
tentatively scheduled to be available in the 2011 Dodge Challenger/Jeep Grand
Cherokee models in January, 2011.
The Media Center 430N (RHB) is a CD/DVD/MP3/HDD radio with 6.5" touch
screen, 30GB hard drive, Album Artwork and Audio Jack, Garmin Navigation and
Sirius Travel Link.
Navigation from Garmin is the name recognized by drivers everywhere as the
dependable, must-have navigation tool. The new radio features Garmin's
intuitive user interface, and
brings the Garmin consumer experience to a factory in-dash radio.
My best suggestion, Joseph, would be for you to contact your preferred Dodge
dealership in order to discuss the 2011 model
and options that would best suit your needs. Your preferred dealership is the best resource for
the most up-to-date factory order information and availability.
links to the 730N
RER 2.4 software update.
other related links below;
Media Center 730N
(RER)
http://www.chrysler.com/en/owners/quality/rer/
Media Center 730N
(RER)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYCWFiIfE6Y
Media Center 730N
(RER)
http://www.mygigs.eu/features/mygig-media-center-730n-rer/
Related Tips!
See Also: Tip:57 Documents - Owner's
Manuals, Dealer/Sales Documents, etc.
See
Also: Tip:87 MyGig Nav Voice System Tip
See Also: Tip:130 Stuck
CD in MyGig Multidisc player?
Battery Reconnection Procedure (reset DDM, PDM,
& SCM's)
Note: This
reconnection procedure below may need to be performed anytime the vehicle
battery has been disconnected.
DDM = Driver Door Module
PDM = Passenger Door Module
SCM = Steering Control Module
AUTO UP FRONT WINDOW
DDM and PDM
If the vehicle is equipped with the
auto-up front window feature, once the battery is reconnected the door module
needs to be calibrated. The door module requires calibration anytime the
battery or door module has been disconnected for any length of time.
To calibrate, perform the following:
1. Turn the Ignition to the RUN
position. Do not start Engine. Wait
until all dings, beeps, etc, have stopped.
2. Regardless of current window
position, move the driver side front window downward until the window stalls
in the full down position.
Allow the window motor to stall for at least 2-4 seconds before releasing the switch.
Note: Monitor the Check Engine Light
on the dash as it should start blinking.
3. Move the driver side front window
upward until the window stalls in the full
up position. Allow the window
motor to stall for at least 2-4
seconds before releasing the switch. Monitor the Check Engine Light should
stop blinking during this time.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for the
passenger side front window.
5. After about 3-4 seconds of
completing driver and passenger side door control modules turn ignition key
OFF.
.
6. Verify the windows are properly
calibrated by operating the express down and up features on the windows.
Express down is where you hit the unlock on the FOBIK once to unlock the
doors and then hit the unlock
button again and HOLD it to allow the windows "express down"
feature to work. Releasing the unlock
button
anytime during the express down function will halt the windows going
down.
7. Repeat this procedure if the
calibration failed. If unable to properly calibrate after the second attempt,
check
the Driver’s Door Module (DDM) and Passenger’s Door Module (PDM) for
Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)
and correct as required.
ELECTRONIC STABILITY PROGRAM (ESP)
If the vehicle is equipped with ESP,
once the battery is reconnected, the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) within the
Antilock Brake Module (ABM) needs to be calibrated.
The SAS requires calibration
(initialization) using the scan tool anytime the battery or an ABS (ESP)
component has been disconnected for any length of time.
If the SAS is not calibrated
following battery reconnection, the ESP/BAS indicator lamp will flash
continuously with no DTCs.
To calibrate (initialize), perform the
following:
1. Position the front wheels straight ahead and center the steering wheel.
Look also at Challenger Tip# 40 for a step by step procedure here.
Tip:40 Centering
the Steering Wheel: AKA: SAS calibration (steering Angle Sensor)
Challenger Spare Tire(s) and SRT
Adaptor/Spacer
Standard Goodyear 18 in. convenience spare T145/80R18
There
has been a lot of owner controversy and concern when discovering that their
vehicle (2009) did not come with a spare tire, but a small air pump and
tire-fix foam. If the tire has any
sidewall damage or severe tread damage, the foam is useless and if you have
TPMS sensors in your wheel, the Factory Owner's Manual strongly warns not to use
Fix-Foam as it will damage or destroy the expensive TPMS tire sensor! Now that did not go over well with me and
many other owners.
If you
wanted what is known as a 'convenience spare' you had to have ordered that as an
option and know about the foam pump, and many owners just did not understand or
know this at the time.
Having
said this, you can however rectify the situation but with a little bit of work
on your part. You can do one of several
things here. You can search your local
or internet salvage yards for wrecks containing any late model LX (Charger,
300c, Magnum) with 18 wheels and purchase a used spare, screw jack and lug
wrench with hold down hardware, or you can order this new through your
dealerships parts counter (see below).
Now,
when dealing with the parts counter, you are not going to be able to get a 18
in convenience spare assembly, meaning WHEEL and TIRE, you will only be able to
buy the spare tire steel wheel (4782465AA)
and this runs about $115.00 and they should be able to get it very
quickly.
Other
parts for Spare tire setup included below;
Challenger
Spare Tire Part Numbers
Dodge
part numbers you will need to purchase to have a complete tire kit for 2009-10
Challenger with the 18"/20" size wheels.
1.
4895015-AC Scissor Jack
2.
6504599 Nut
3.
52059160-AC Retainer
4.
4782465-AA Wheel, Spare rim
5.
Y8180222-53 Tire, (T145/80D18)
6.
6508110-AA Bolt
7.
4782999-AC Jack Handle Wrench
Dodge dealer parts cost is about $ 408.37.
The
number for the tire is for the T145/80D18 which comes with 2010 Challengers.
To use the 18 in. spare with SRT (clear Brembo
brakes) you need to obtain the wheel-hub adapter that is described above.
You can
go to your local GOODYEAR Tire Dealer and order the convenience
spare T145/80R18 as the dealer can
get this directly from the mfg warehouse via his ordering software. They do not stock these in stores. No one else can supply this but Goodyear.
This is
how I got mine and I got it mounted there as well. Now, be prepared for tire sticker shock as
this sucker was expensive! We're talking
2 bills here as you will pay shipping from warehouse and tax and mounting,
etc. So in total, I spent over 3 bills
for just the spare tire assembly, but its new and not used.
If you
want/need spare lug nuts, see this Challenger Tip: Tip:76 Challenger
SRT and RT Wheel Lug Info.
Ok,
there are a few other tidbits here.
You can
also use a 17. in spare out of the late model Chargers and Magnums that have
the T135/90R17. Why?
Because the bolt pattern is the same, the internal rim will fit over the
rear R/T and SE brakes calipers and the tire DIAMETER is almost identical to the T145/80R18.
There
is approximately 1/2 inch difference in tire diameters. So the 17 in wheel/tire could be in fact used
also as an emergency spare. The only glitch here on the SE/RT is you can use
this on the rear wheel as the slightly smaller rim diameter will only clear the
rear disc brake not the larger front one on R/T. So it would work in a pinch but not for all
corners on an R/T.
So if
you wanted to use this convenience spare, you need to use it on the rear in emergencies and if you have a
flat on one of your front tires, you will have to install this size on the rear
and use the rear good tire to replace the one that is flat on the front. Yes, you will have to change two tires
then.
If you
have a R/T Auto, you may have to turn off the ESP as you may get a warning
light as this 17in tire diameter is a tad over the 5% speed differential
allowance. R/T TrakPak
with LSD (Lmitied Slip Differential) rear ends
(Manual transmissions) will probably have a problem using this particular tire
size, so I would not recommend it. Go
with the T145/80R18's. Even then, if in
question with the LSD, and you have a flat on a rear tire, simply install the
convenience spare on a front corner and use that tire on rear(s). You don't know how far you may have to drive
to get a tire fixed.
Here
are the specifications/measurements;
T135/90R17 674.8 mm or 26.56 in.
T145/80R18 689.2 mm or 27.13 in.
Now for the SRT8 Folks!
You want a spare
but you have them BIG Brembo brakes and the standard
convenience spare is not going to fit without hitting the calipers. So, you will have to use a wheel
adaptor/spacer like in the picture below and you are in business. This
adaptor/space allows you to clear the brakes and mount the standard 18 inch
convenience spare tire. You do not want
to carry a loose spare tire, full size or otherwise in the trunk as this will
come forward into the cabin area via the fold down back seat, if the vehicle
has a sudden stop or front end impact.
Adaptor for use with convenience spare.
USA Adaptor
Challenger
SRT - Wheel Adaptor 5x115 to 5x115 with 14mm studs
Call
USA Adaptor at 1-317-856-1810 ( ask for Dustin )
ESP Feedback ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1970 Charger Heeeeey Latenite1, good
info. But tip #92 will cause the computer for the ESP to burn-out on the SRT
due to not |
Hi
1970 Charger;
I have different data that does not agree with your previous statement. Such as
tire diameters. If the tire diameters are kept
within
5% there is no real ESP issue, if
there was a problem there you could turn OFF
ESP, but with the proper size spare you
should not have to. You will, however need to drive 50-55 mph, and this would present a problem for some.
Here is the published tire size diameters for the following;
Stock SRT8 - Goodyear 245/45ZR20 - tire diameter of 28.7 inch.
Convenience Spare(GY) T145/80R18 - tire diameter of 27.13 inch.
So the tire is at 5% of the same diameter. So if a SRT owner had a flat on the
rear, and had a any concern about his rear end, he
could move a tire from the front to the back and then use the spare on the
front and turn OFF ESP. Otherwise go
with a full size
spare
and fabricate a solid trunk anchor mount and use up a lot of your trunk
space. The emergency spare would be just
really
that,
for use in an emergency to get you
immediately to a tire shop/repair site.
You will also be required to drive at a very reduced speed anyway due to the
mfg warning on use of convenience spare tires.
For
those that wish to see more SRT spare tire information and a
gent that did some research on using the adapter and different
18 in. spares from the Charger/Magnum/300c vehicles click the link below for
good pictures and info from 340GTS.
http://www.challengerforumz.com/showthread.php?t=49415
Help on Sticking/Freezing Windows and Door
Seals!
For
those of you who live in cold climates or have had the experience of the
automatic windows freezing up in the wintertime know it's a headache and a
problem.
It can
throw the DDM/PDM control modules (the units that automatically drop the
windows down and up when opening/closing the doors) go out of calibration and
no longer
work
right.
There
is a silicone based lubricant available at the dealership for this but there
are some other aftermarket products that work just as well, if not better!
If you
have this problem, go to your local Advance Auto, AutoZone or PepBoys and look for Prestone De-Ice products like these show below.
These
products are ideal for windshield wipers, doors seals and sticking windows.
The de-Icer Spray comes in spray bottles and a scraper-spray-can
for ease of application while cleaning ice off of your windows.
Depending
on the climate and geographic location, you can apply several layers of de-Icer on the top sections and seals of the driver and
passenger windows eliminating the window sticking when opening and closing
vehicle doors.
Here is a Z members feedback on the product
on his Challenger!
[Posted by TJGS]
I have really started
to have trouble now that the temperatures have been in the 12-23 degrees F.
I was using silcone
spray but even that stopped working. Tried something new and have had great
success. It's made
by Prestone
and comes in a spray bottle.
Spray it on the bottom inch of the glass, work the window up and down about
7-10 times moving it about 3-4 inches
when you do it. This will wet the fuzzy
felt below the seal. Windows have been working great ever since.
ALSO;
For
those who want to spend a little extra
can go with Aquapel http://www.aquapel.com/
So you as a consumer have a number of ways to go with a
spray/treatment to repel water and moisture and in cold weather
freezing, resulting in ice.
Here is a link to a site on how to properly apply Aquapel to your windshield!
http://raysands.wordpress.com/2008/05/18/how-to-apply-aquapel-glass-treatment-to-your-windshield/
Challenger Replacement Light Bulbs
LIGHT BULBS - EXTERIOR
Exterior |
Bulb
Number |
Low
beam headlight – high intensity discharge (hid) |
D1S |
Dual
High/Low beam Halogen capsule headlamp |
9008 |
Front park/turn lamp |
3157 |
Front fog light |
9145/H10 |
Front side marker |
168 |
Tail light |
3057K |
Tail/stop/turn light |
3057K |
Rear side marker |
168 |
Backup light |
921 |
Center high mount stop light (CHMSL) |
|
License |
168 |
LIGHT BULBS - INTERIOR
Bulb Number |
|
Rear courtesy/reading lights |
W5W |
Rear compartment (trunk) light |
562 |
Overhead console reading lights |
578 |
Visor vanity lights |
A6220 |
Glove box light |
194 |
Door courtesy |
562 |
Shift indicator light |
JKLE14140 |
Optional door map pocket / cup holder lighting |
LED |
NOTE: |
All of
the interior bulbs are glass wedge base or glass cartridge types. |
Remote Start Function Inhibitors!
The
following list below are items that can prevent your REMOTE START from working
on your Challenger.
This is where you press the REMOTE START push button and the car horn beeps
once and the lights flash
on
once, and nothing happens? Sometimes its
intermittent and annoying, and other times it can be pin pointed
to a
specific proximity switch or module communications problem. Here is a complete list of Remote Start
Inhibitor
functions or codes!
REMOTE START INHIBITORS
Using the scan tool, select ECU VIEW. |
2. |
Select the TIPM or FCM section. |
3. |
Select MORE OPTIONS |
4. |
Select SYSTEM TESTS |
5. |
Select REMOTE START INHIBIT DATA. |
The
following table below is a Dodge listing of all possible causes for the
inoperative Remote Start System.
If any of
the following conditions exist, the Remote Start System will not work. Use this
information as a guide to the diagnosis of the Remote Start System.
- ABORT
- BATTERY VOLTAGE HIGH
- BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW
- BRAKE PRESSED
- COOLANT TEMPERATURE HIGH
- CRANK NO START
- DRIVER DOOR AJAR
- PASSENGER DOOR AJAR
- LEFT REAR DOOR AJAR
- RIGHT REAR DOOR AJAR
- TRUNK/LIFTGATE AJAR
- HOOD AJAR
- NO HOOD SWITCH (INOPERATIVE)
- EXCESSIVE GLOW PLUG TIME (DIESEL ONLY)
- FAILED COUNTER REACHED (START)
- HAZARD LAMPS (SWITCH PRESSED)
- IGNITION IN RUN/START
- IGNITION NOT IN LOCK
- IGNITION SNA (SIGNAL NOT AVAILABLE FROM OTHER MODULE)
- INVALID KEY
- KEY IN IGNITION
- LOW RPM SHUTDOWN
- MIL ON
- NO AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
- NORMAL TIME OUT CUSTOMER ACCESS
- NORMAL TIME OUT RUN MODE (15 MINUTES)
- NOT CONFIGURED
- NOT ENABLED
- NOT IN PARK OR NEUTRAL
- NOT PROGRAMMED
- OIL PRESSURE LOW
- PANIC MODE (ACTIVATED)
- POWER LOSS
- RKE OFF MESSAGE
- RPM TOO HIGH (EXCEEDS 2500)
- START COUNTER REACHED
- VEHICLE SPEED HIGH
- VTA ALARMING
If all of
the previous items checked OK, and the remote starting system will not operate,
refer to the REMOTE START POOR PERFORMANCE diagnostic procedure.
There may be possible antenna related issues.
Tip:96 What
does the term FOB, KEYFOB or FOBIK mean?
Q: Out of
curiosity... I've always wondered what FOB or FOBIK stands for?
A: KEY FOB is usually a decorative or "trick item" stuck on a key ring.
With the advent of automotive electronics, the key fob term took on the meaning of the RKE device.
(RKE) Remote Keyless Entry device, you know, the little
thingy that you hit to unlock the car door or
open up the trunk.
Now a FOBIK means a FOB or RKE device with an (I)ntegrated (K)ey".
The integrated key will allow someone to lock valuables in the glove box and turn the RKE into a valet key so a
parking attendant can park the car and you can keep your
loaded .45 Semi-Auto in the glove box safely locked
away.
Here is a link with lots of historical info on FOB's....
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Key_fob
Tip:97 VIN
PLATE DECODER
VIN
PLATE DECODING INFORMATION
1 = Country
2 = Make
3 = Vehicle Type
4 = Other
5 = Line
6 = Series
7 = Body Style
8 = Engine
9 = Check Digit
10= Model Year
11= Assy
Plant.
12 -17 =
Plant Sequence No.
The following table
interprets the VIN Plate position shown above.
Digit / Position
Interpretation Codes = Description
1 Country of Origin;
1 = Manufactured By Chrysler LLC
2 = Manufactured By Chrysler
LLC, Canada
2 Assembler;
D = Dodge
B = Brampton Assembly Plant,
Canada
3 Vehicle Type;
3 = Passenger Car
4 GVWR & Pass. Safety;
H = Restraint System Advanced
Multistage Front Air Bags Sales Code (CG3)
J = Restraint System Advanced
Multistage Front Air Bags Sales Code (CG3)
K = Without Side Air Bags Sales
Code (CGS)
L = With Side Air Bags Sales
Code (CGS)
5 Vehicle Line;
J = Challenger (RWD) (LHD) U.S., Canada,
Mexico
6 Series;
4 = Challenger SE, D-X-22 U.S.,
Canada, Mexico
5 = Challenger RT, D-X-22 U.S., Canada,
Mexico
7 = Challenger SRT8, D-X-22
U.S., Canada, Mexico
7 Body Style;
4 = 2DR Pillared Hardtop Body Style - 22
8 Engine;
W = 6.1L 8 CYL Gasoline Non Turbo (ESF),
T = 5.7L 8 CYL Gasoline,
V = 3.5 L 6 CYL Gasoline
9 Check Digit ;
0 = Check Digit (range is
0-9, or X)
(See note below on
consumer fraud/theft information.)
10 Model Year;
8 = 2008 Model Year
9 = 2009 Model Year
A = 2010 Model Year
11 Assembly Plant
H = Brampton Assembly
12 thru 17 = Vehicle Build Sequence, or
Model Year Assembly Sequence number
To
find the manufacture date your of
vehicle (Challenger), open the driver's side door
and on
the right of the pillar or end of the door there should be a door sticker.
.
The MDH # on the bottom row of your door
sticker stands for Month/Day/Hour
of
manufacture.
Check Digit
information:
To
protect the consumer from theft and possible fraud the manufacturer is required
to include a Check Digit at the ninth position
of
the Vehicle Identification Number. The check digit is used by the manufacturer
and government agencies to verify the authenticity
of
the vehicle and official documentation. The formula to use the check digit is
not released to the general public.
Tip:98 Cooling Flow - 5.7L/6.1L HEMI Engines
COOLING FLOW - 5.7L/6.1L HEMI ENGINE
COOLING FLOW - 5.7/6.1L ENGINE
|
2 - HEATER CORE |
3 - CYLINDER HEAD |
4 - CYLINDER BLOCK |
5 - WATER PUMP |
6 - THERMOSTAT |
7 - RADIATOR |
The cooling system is pressurized and uses a centrifugal
water pump to circulate coolant throughout the system.
The cooling system also provides a means of heating the passenger compartment and
cooling the NAG1 automatic transmission fluid (if equipped).
SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION
|
SPECIFICATION
|
|
|
Metric |
Standard |
3.5 L |
10.8
Liters |
11.4
Quarts |
5.7 L |
13.9
Liters |
14.7
Quarts |
6.1 L |
14.4
Liters |
15.2
Quarts |
COMPONENTS
The
cooling system consists of the following components :
Radiator
Electric Cooling fan
Fan shroud
Radiator pressure cap
Thermostat
Coolant recovery container
Transmission oil cooler (if equipped with an automatic
transmission)
Coolant
Water pump
Hoses and hose clamps
The
use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder heads and water pumps requires
special corrosion protection. Only Mopar® Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile
Formula (glycol base coolant with corrosion inhibitors called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic Additive
Technology) is recommended. This coolant offers the best engine cooling without
corrosion when mixed with 50% distilled water to obtain to obtain a freeze point
of -37°C (-35°F). If it loses color or becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and
replace with fresh properly mixed coolant solution.
CAUTION: |
Do not use coolant additives that are claimed to improve engine
cooling. |
THERMOSTAT
Description:
The engine cooling thermostats are a wax pellet driven,
reverse poppet choke type. The thermostats have an air bleed located in the
thermostat flange. The air bleed allows internal trapped air during cooling
system filling to be released. The thermostat on the 2.7L and 3.5L engines are
located on the lower left side of engine, near the front. The thermostat on
both engines are on the inlet side of the water pump.
The thermostat on the 5.7L/6.1L engine is located beneath
the thermostat housing (1) at the front of the intake manifold.
A rubber seal is used to seal the thermostat housing to the intake manifold.
The thermostat contains the following components:
1 - Vent Valve. Vents the cooling system via a ball valve
(jiggle pin) when it is filled and when the engine is running.
2 - Bypass Valve. Controls coolant flow through the bypass
passage to the inlet side of the water pump
3 - Thermostat Housing Seal.
4 - Main Valve. Controls coolant flow
through the radiator.
OPERATION
Up
to a coolant temperature of approximately 87° C (189° F), the main valve is
closed and the bypass valve fully open.
The flow through the radiator is interrupted and coolant flows through the
bypass passage directly to the inlet side of the water pump.
The
main valve begins to open at a coolant temperature of 86° C (189° F), and a
small amount of coolant flows through the radiator.
As
the engine temperature increases, the main valve opens further and the bypass
valve gradually closes. More coolant flows through the radiator and less
coolant flows through the bypass passage.
The
main valve is fully open at a coolant temperature above 102° C (216° F). The
bypass plate seals off the bypass passage.
The entire quantity of coolant flows through the radiator.
Please note these very important related tips!
HOAT
Engine Coolant!
For additional
information on Challenger Fill Spec's, Torque, Special Tools and Pictorials
on drain, flush and fill procedures, CLICK
HERE.
Tip:99 NAGI Automatic Transmission, Description
Detail
NAG1 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
DESCRIPTION
NAG1 Automatic Transmission |
||||||||||||||||||||
|
The NAG1 automatic
transmission is an electronically controlled 5-speed transmission with a
lock-up clutch in the torque converter.
The ratios for the gear stages are obtained by 3 planetary gear sets. Fifth
gear is designed as an overdrive with a high-speed ratio.
NAG1
identifies a family of transmissions and means “N”ew
“A”utomatic “G”earbox,
generation 1. Various marketing names are
associated with the NAG1 family of transmissions, depending on the transmission
variation being used in a specific vehicle.
Some examples of the marketing names are: W5A300, W5A380, and W5A580. The
marketing name can be interpreted as follows:
W = A transmission using a hydraulic torque converter.
5 = 5 forward gears.
A = Automatic Transmission.
580 = Maximum input torque capacity in Newton meters.
The gears
are actuated electronically/hydraulically. The gears are shifted by means of an
appropriate combination of three multi-disc
holding clutches, three multi-disc driving clutches, and two freewheeling
clutches.
Electronic
transmission control enables precise adaptation of pressures to the respective
operating conditions and to the engine output
during the shift phase which results in a significant improvement in shift
quality.
Furthermore,
it offers the advantage of a flexible adaptation to various vehicle and
engines.
Basically,
the automatic transmission with electronic control offers the following
advantages:
Reduces fuel consumption.
Improved shift comfort.
More favorable step-up through the five gears.
Increased service life and reliability.
Lower maintenance costs.
TRANSMISSION IDENTIFICATION
The
transmission can be generically identified visually by the presence of a round
13-way connector located near the front corner
of the transmission oil pan, on the right side. Specific transmission
information can be found stamped into a pad on the left side
of the transmission, above the oil pan rail.
The gear
ratios for the NAG1 automatic transmission are as follows:
1st Gear-3.59:1 |
The
converter housing and transmission are made from a light alloy. These are
bolted together and centered via the outer multi-disc
carrier of multi-disc holding clutch, B1. A coated intermediate plate provides
the sealing. The oil pump and the outer multi-disc carrier
of the multi-disc holding clutch, B1, are bolted to the converter housing. The
stator shaft is pressed into it and prevented from
rotating by splines. The electro-hydraulic unit is
bolted to the transmission housing from underneath. A sheet metal steel oil pan
forms
the closure.
The
mechanical section consists of a input shaft, output shaft, a sun gear shaft,
and three planetary gear sets which are coupled to
each other. The planetary gear sets each have four planetary pinion gears. The
oil pressure for the torque converter lock-up clutch
and clutch K2 is supplied through bores in the input shaft. The oil pressure to
clutch K3 is transmitted through the output shaft. The
lubricating oil is distributed through additional bores in both shafts. All the
bearing points of the gear sets, as well as the freewheeling
clutches and actuators, are supplied with lubricating oil. The parking lock gear is connected to the
output shaft via splines.
Freewheeling
clutches F1 and F2 are used to optimize the shifts. The front freewheel, F1, is
supported on the extension of the stator
shaft on the transmission side and, in the locking direction, connects the sun
gear of the front planetary gear set to the transmission
housing. In the locking direction, the rear freewheeling clutch, F2, connects
the sun gear of the center planetary gear set to the sun
gear of the rear planetary gear set.
ELECTRO-HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT
The
electro-hydraulic control unit comprises the shift plate made from light alloy
for the hydraulic control and an electrical control unit.
The electrical control unit comprises of a supporting body made of plastic,
into which the electrical components are assembled. The
supporting body is mounted on the shift plate and screwed to it.
Strip conductors inserted into the supporting body make the connection between
the electrical components and a plug connector. The
connection to the wiring harness on the vehicle and the transmission control
module (TCM) is produced via this 13-pin plug connector
with a bayonet lock.
SHIFT
GROUPS
The hydraulic control components (including actuators) which are
responsible for the pressure distribution before, during, and after a
gear change are described as a shift group. Each shift group contains a command
valve, a holding pressure shift valve, a shift pressure
shift valve, overlap regulating valve, and a solenoid.
The hydraulic system contains three shift groups: 1-2/4-5, 2-3, and 3-4. Each
shift group can also be described as being in one of two
possible states. The active shift group is described as being in the shift
phase when it is actively engaging/disengaging a clutch
combination. The 1-2/4-5 shift group control the B1 and K1 clutches. The 2-3
shift group controls the K2 and K3 clutches.
The 3-4 shift group controls the K3 and B2 clutches.
TRANSMISSION COOLING
All NAG1 Automatic (on Dodge Challengers) have a transmission
cooler from the factory.
There are a pair of aluminum lines from the transmission up to the front of the
radiator.
Where an auxiliary cooler is mounted to the front of the radiator assy.
This cooler unit serves two or three functions depending on the
following conditions;
The factory transmission cooler
should be considered minimum equipment level.
If you are running a high stall
torque converter, you will want additional cooling
over the factory level.
NOTE:
See also link: Tip:109 The TCM - Transmission Control Module (Detail)
BMC
BILLET CATCH-CAN DRAIN COCK MODIFICATION
Tired of bashed knuckles and sprained
wrists??
BMC
BILLET CATCH-CAN DRAIN COCK MODIFICATION
For
those who have purchased the BMC Satin or Polished Billet Catch-Can for their
HEMI Challengers are happy with them I’m sure.
The
addition of Moroso’s unit as well as others now
available, shows there are more options to choose from when now ordering a
particular style or unit.
Brake Repair on Challenger/Charger!
Tech
Topics covered in the article are;
Calipers
Brake Packages
Inspection
Installing New Pads and Rotors
Base System Bleeding
ABS Bleeding
Parking Brake Adjustment
Initial Adjustment
Final Adjustment
Here is a link to a this article with
torque spec's on doing your own brake repairs on a Challenger or Charger (LC/LX
frame)
http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/Article/61086/Brake_Job_.aspx
2009 Dodge Challenger Final Sales Figures
SE is LCDH22, R/T is LCDP22, SRT8 is LCDX22. Some of these colors (e.g. B5
Blue) were not generally available or were only available
for part of the year. Hemi Orange and B5 Blue were not available (understandably)
on Challenger SE. The four-speed automatic was dropped
for the 2010 model year. Many thanks to Mike V. for providing this information.
2009 Challengers |
|
4-Speed |
5-Speed
Automatic |
|
6-Speed
Manual |
|
Total |
||||||
Color |
|
SE |
|
SE |
R/T |
SRT8 |
Total |
|
R/T |
SRT8 |
Total |
|
|
Deep Water Blue |
|
951 |
|
3 |
898 |
|
901 |
|
450 |
|
450 |
|
2,302 |
Dark Titanium |
|
670 |
|
|
497 |
|
497 |
|
208 |
|
208 |
|
1,375 |
Hemi Orange |
|
|
|
|
1,821 |
1,507 |
3,328 |
|
1,123 |
1,217 |
2,340 |
|
5,668 |
B5 Blue |
|
|
|
|
279 |
83 |
362 |
|
244 |
153 |
397 |
|
759 |
TorRed |
|
1157 |
|
|
1,170 |
784 |
1,954 |
|
586 |
637 |
1,223 |
|
4,334 |
Inferno Red |
|
993 |
|
2 |
764 |
|
766 |
|
330 |
|
330 |
|
2,089 |
Bright Silver |
|
1017 |
|
1 |
808 |
620 |
1,429 |
|
297 |
351 |
648 |
|
3,094 |
Stone White |
|
782 |
|
1 |
857 |
|
858 |
|
463 |
|
463 |
|
2,103 |
Brilliant Black |
|
2452 |
|
2 |
2,602 |
1,726 |
4,330 |
|
1,486 |
1,508 |
2,994 |
|
9,556 |
|
|
8022 |
|
9 |
9,696 |
4,720 |
14,425 |
|
5,187 |
3,866 |
9,053 |
|
31,500 |
Total
by Model:
Challenger S/E;
8,031
Challenger R/T; 14,883
Challenger SRT; 8,586
Total;
31,500
Washing and
Draining Water from Door Mirrors.
When
you wash your Challenger you can rotate the mirror housings downward to let the
water drain out.
This
will prevent a slug of water coming out of the mirror housings when you go to
drive your car after drying it off after a wash
and streaking up the sides of the vehicle.
Dodge
Challenger Parts Manuals 2008 - 2011
Below here are links to the 2008-2011 Dodge
Challenger Parts breakdown OEM manuals.
Note, there will be many common parts across the LC platform between the basic
models and this may help if you are looking to see parts and parts breakdowns.
There are some trim differences between models but there are many frame and
body parts that are going to be the same across model years.
You will note that the factory FRAME designation for Dodge Challenger is [LC], where as Dodge Charger frame designation is [LX].
NOTE:
Related tip -> Tip:189
Dodge Challenger Body Repair Manual
Dodge
Challenger Accessories – Genuine MOPAR Catalog
Here are just
a small sample of what’s in the Accessory Catalog
Category/Accessory Contents
Audio/Video & Electronics, Amplifiers, Speakers & Subwoofers, Audio
Accessories, iPod interface, iPod integration
Backup/Driving Assistance, Park
Distance Sensors
Cellular Accessories, Hands Free Bluetooth Car Kit, u-connect phone
Cargo Area Mat, Carpeted
Covers, Full Car
Door Sill Guards
Fuel Filler Door
Hood, Hood Scoop
Locks, Wheel Locks
Navigation Systems, Additional Geographic Map Data and Accessories
Pedal Kit
Remote Start
Radio Systems
Roadside Safety Kits
Shift Knob, T-Handle’s
Seat Covers, Katzkin
Leather
Splash Guards
Spoilers, Rear Spoiler
Wheels, OEM - 17, 18, 20in.
http://www.mopar.ca/en/accessories/catalogues_2009/dodge/Challenger%20Quick%20Reference.pdf
Custom fitted DASH covers
from CoverKing:
HomeLink Wireless Control System – 3 Button overhead unit in late model Dodge Challengers
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What is HomeLink® Wireless Control System?
A: HomeLink is an
integrated transceiver (a transmitter and receiver) that can be programmed to
activate radio
frequency (RF) devices such as garage doors, estate/community gates, entry door
locks, home/office lighting, or
other RF devices.
HomeLink is compatible with
radio-frequency devices operating between 288 and 399 MHz (exclusive of the
restricted 322-335 MHz range). Select 2007 and newer vehicles are compatible up
to 433 MHz (exclusive of
the restricted 400-410 MHz range). Please contact us by email or phone
(1-800-355-3515) to verify vehicle
compatibility.
You can get up
to date information and answers to basic questions like;
How does HomeLink work?
How can I get HomeLink?
I can't program
my HomeLink.
Range
troubleshooting tips:
What other
capabilities does HomeLink have besides operating
garage doors?
Where can I purchase
HomeLink compatible products?
How do I program
a pre-1982 garage door opener?
My garage door
opener doesn’t have a hand-held transmitter. Will HomeLink
still work?
How does HomeLink work with KEELOQ®-based rolling code garage door
openers?
http://www.homelink.com/home/faqs.taf
Go to this site for additional information on
programming "rolling code" gate openers and other supported RF
devices.
Also, here is a video describing HOMELINK operations from the Dodge
Channel.
Tip:200 Dodge Channels 2011 Dodge Challenger Homelink System Documentary
FOBIK (Key Fob) Repair and erratic operations
Some Challenger owners have complained about their key fobs
mysteriously unlocking their trunks or rolling down their windows.
A possible fix is described is described
below:
The FOBIK has a rubber mat with the button graphics on it.
If you open your FOBIK, the bottom side of the rubber mat has
metal discs called "Snap Domes". The snap domes are what give
each button that snap feel when you press it. Each of these snap
domes are made of stainless steel, coated in a black carbon paint
to give them extra conductivity.
When you press the button, the snap dome completes the circuit for
that button and the FOBIK transmits.
An issue here is that sometimes a small piece of the carbon coating can break
away from the stainless steel and get trapped under
the snap dome. Even a very, very small piece of this is enough to
create this problem.
Because the carbon material is very conductive, and it is trapped beneath the
snap dome, it can complete the circuit very easily and
make the FOBIK transmit.
Depending on which button this happens to, this can create a
variety of issues. If this phenomenon occurs beneath most buttons, the
outcome is very predictable but is most annoying when it happens
beneath the Unlock button. That can randomly unlock the car, but
also can make your windows roll down. Not good if it's raining
out.
The fix is very simple. Just open up the FOBIK, and use a Q-tip and a small
amount of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol carefully wipe both
the PCB where the snap domes make contact and the underside of the
snap domes. Dry/wipe off any excess.
Remove
any and all loose black residue.
Once gone, this intermittent or erratic problem should go away as
well.
Button
Protection?
For those of you who have to carry your FOBIK in your pocket and
bend over a lot or move around a lot to where the keys push on
the buttons, you can use two wraps of Scotch #88 electrical tape
around the center of the FOBIK to give your trunk key a bit more
protection from inadvertent presses. The extra layers of electrical tape will
prevent keys on the key ring from easily pressing the
buttons on the FOBIK but yet if you need to press them, you will
only need to exert a little more force in pressing them to active the
function.
SEE
ALSO: Tip:49 Key
FOB?
The PCM - PowerTrain Control Module
This is the same thing as the ECM in many other
vehicles and it controls the HEMI engine and fuel system for emissions
compliance.
The link below provides a detailed description of PCM modes of operations,
inputs, outputs and critical components in the engine system.
NGC Engine Management Technology
Dodge terminology has changed a bit in identify a
new "generation" of PCM that is in the modern Challenger. It is referred to as an NGC instead of a PCM.
NGC is an acronym for Next Generation Controller.
Ok, so what is the big deal. Well like prior technology used in PCM's, the
PCM can tell if say a sensor is open (no there) or shorted. It can throw a MIL or CEL on the dash to
indicate trouble. With the new type NGC
units, they can do to another level and see if the signal coming in from a
sensor is "bad". They call it
where they will "rationalize" the value, compare it to other values
being looked at and throw a code based on the information coming in from a
sensor is "wrong" or out of spec for the particular range or
value(s).
It is important for the Dodge Challenger owner to have some basic understanding
of what functions this important module does and how it interacts with the
engine performance and the TCM
(Transmission Control Module) and automatic transmission operations. They do have an intimate relationship.
http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/PCM-Main%20operations.htm
The TCM - Transmission Control Module
The NAG1
Transmission Control Module (TCM) controls most all of the fundamental
operations of the transmission.
The controller monitors speed, gears, torque,
temperature and a host of other operations to keep the power coming from the
engine going out to the rear drive wheels in the best "power
management" situations.
The link below provides important specific location
and operational information about the NAG1's TCM (Transmission Control Modlule):
http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/TCM-NAG1.htm
These links below also provide useful and/or
additional information specific to NAG1 Adaptation and TCM "Limp
modes";
Tip:121 Transmission Control Module (TCM) - Limp
Mode(s)
Tip:124 TCM Adaptation - NAG1 Only
The
T-Handle Shifter Upgrade for Challenger (Auto)
Dodge P/N# DCP-82211622
In looking at making changes to my Challenger R/T Automatic, I saw that I
wanted the "T" handle shifter to go along with my brush SS door
sills, dash and door panel kits. I think it looks far superior to the leather
covered stick knob that came on the car.
Several vendors carry this as
well as your Dodge Parts counter now,
and the installation is quite simple.
The newest part to be released from Dodge is the New
Challenger T-Handle Shifter Knob
Dodge Part number DCP-82211622.
For step by step instructions on how to install the T-Handle shifter you can go to this link below;
http://www.mylrs.com/blogs/lrs/archive/2008/09/03/t-handle-upgrade-for-your-challenger.aspx
For those wanting a custom Billet T-handle, Billet Tech has a nice
one as well. Here is a link to their
product page;
http://www.custombilletstore.com/product_p/1030.htm
Push
Button Start Overlay Trim
This vendor provides a variety of different start button overlays
and can do custom work if you have a special logo you want to put on your
"Start Button"!
and
Nate's Custom Start Button Overlays
Here is his website. Welcome To ReBadge
Design! Your source for custom vehicle badges and more!
Also on Amazon.com
: Dodge
Button Overlays
Electro
Chromatic Mirror disable on Reverse feature
On 2009 Dodge Challenger with Electro chromatic Mirror option (2J
Electronics Pkg) there is the disable feature for the
(R)everse
gear to disable the "dimming" feature. So it is not really a
brightening of the mirror but actually a disable of the dimming "if"
the
dimming feature is enabled or turned on.
For those technical, the modern Electro chromatic Mirrors on many models of
Chevy, Ford, Dodge, and some imports use this disable
feature. On Dodge Challenger the disable control signal originates
from the TIPM on the Backup Lamp Control Output circuit.
Q: I
couldn't find a proper place for this question, or could I find this info in my
owner's manual. On my rearview mirror, there is a
green light that comes
on when I crank the car, what is this light. There is a switch, beside the
light, that will turn it off.
A: It is the “Auto Dim” on/off switch.
Green light on means "auto dim" is enabled.
2009 Owner's Manual – Automatic Dimming Mirror pg.
75
2010 Owner's Manual – Automatic Dimming Mirror pg.
77
Tire Tech Information - Reading and
Calculating Tire Sizes/Dimensions
How to Read a Tire Sidewall
|
Translate the gibberish on
your tire!
|
The typical tire size is expressed something like
this: P245/45R17 93H M+S.
Those numbers and letters can seem like Greek, so
let's define them one at a time below.
P: The first letter stands for
tire's intended use. P is the most common and it means Passenger. LT stands
for Light Truck. An LT tire has a sturdier construction than a P tire, and it
can carry a greater load, which we will talk about later.
245: Width of the tire, from
sidewall to sidewall, in millimeters. A 245 is 245 millimeters, or 24.5
centimeters, wide. The tread width is actually somewhat smaller than the tire's
actual width.
45: Aspect Ratio. This is the
sidewall's height from the inside diameter to the outside diameter. It is
expressed as a percentage of the width. A 245/45 is 45 percent as tall as it is
wide, making it approximately 110.25 millimeters tall. As aspect ratios
decrease, the tire's firmness increases. Smaller aspect ratios, such as 35 or
40 are generally reserved for performance tires on sports cars.
R: Tire's type of construction.
R stands for Radial, and all new cars and light trucks today use radials. You
may also see B in this spot for Bias Ply. Bias ply tires were used prior to the
mid 1970s.
17: Tire's inner diameter,
which matches the outer diameter of your car's wheels.
93: Load Rating. Load ratings range from 0 to 279 and each
has a corresponding weight associated with it. A 93 load rating means that tire
is certified to carry up to 1433 pounds at maximum inflation pressure. If a car
weighs 4000 pounds, then each tire handles 1000 pounds with no passengers or
cargo aboard. If you intend to tow a heavy boat or trailer, you should buy
tires with a higher load rating. This will require some math to figure out the
vehicle weight, the trailer weight, and the weight of a load you may carry
inside the vehicle while towing. Add it all up, divide by four, and make sure
your replacement tires have a corresponding load rating.
H: Speed Rating. All passenger tires have a speed rating expressed as a
letter. Those letters and corresponding speeds the tires are rated for are in
this chart:
S:
112 mph
T:
118 mph
U:
124 mph
H: 130 mph
V:
149 mph
W: 168 mph
Y: 186 mph
Z: over 186 mph
A Speed Rating is really an indication of a tire's ability to dissipate heat to
avoid a blowout. Higher speeds mean greater heat buildup.
Tires with higher speed ratings are constructed to
handle heat better. In general, they also ride harder than tires with lower
speed ratings. S-, T-, and U-rated tires are considered regular passenger-car
tires. H- and V-ratings are reserved for touring tires, which are generally
found on sport sedans. The Z rating is for performance tires found on high
performance sports cars.
M+S: Mud and Snow. This is an all-season tire. A summer performance tire
would have no designation here.
Most modern passenger car and light truck tires feature size designations that indicate the tire's dimensions in a combination of metric, mathematical and English systems. While this unusual combination of millimeters, percentages and inches is a byproduct of the evolution of global tire specifications, it also provides the ability to calculate/estimate basic tire dimensions.
More information can be seen at:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=7&
Personalize U-connect
You can change the name of your device
(phone) on U-Connect so that when you press the button instead of the
voice saying "Blackberry 8530 is now connected" it can say
"Challenger is now connected"
Steps are:
Go into menu
Systems set up
Phone pairing
Select your phone (tap on it)
Re-name device
Backspace to erase current name
Enter new name (ex: Challenger)
NOTE: You can only input up to 15 characters including
spaces (no phrases)
When I hit the U-Connect button and the car says "Challenger is now
connected", and passengers are now impressed.
Rear
Fold-down center arm rest removal
You will require a Torx bit T-40
to remove the one bolt and then it just comes off.
You will need to pull down the rear seat (behind front passenger side) and then
you'll see the one bolt.
R/T and
SRT front chin spoiler replacement
Many R/T owners are interested and are looking at replacing their front chin spoilers with the one from the SRT8.
This one has a pair of inlet scoops on the front to all air
to enter and be directed by channels on the belly pan toward
the front brake rotor's for additional cooling.
If you are going to do this, you will need to "re-drill" the mounting holes in the SRT one to fit the mounting points on
the R/T. Looking at the picture below will show the differences.
When you remove the R/T spoiler use it as a pattern to locate and
mark the holes needed in the SRT spoiler to be drilled for mounting. Note the channels in the front belly pan for
directed air as these will then line up with the front opening in the SRT
spoiler.
R/T Spoiler
Version: #68051388AA
SRT
Challenger Chin Spoiler: # 68043390AA (does
not include fender flares)
SRT Challenger
Belly Pan : # 05030943AA (Air ducts) 2008-2010
If
you want to install the NEW model 2011
Challenger spoiler on your R/T, etc., here is the info;
2011 IE 392
Challenger Spoiler # 68109837AA List $80.10 ea
Side's filler Part #68109838AA and # 8109839AA List $ 9.85ea
Note: Have
replacement "pop-pins" as you will have to cut out several in the
forward front fender wells and you may have a problem with one or two of the
5/16" (larger) ones on the belly pan if they don't want to release
well. Also the lower front wheel well
trim will have to be released and the stock Dodge plastic "rivets"
will have to be cut as they are not reusable.
The reusable ones you can get replacements at your local AutoZone or
Advance Auto stores.
You can get a plastic rivet kit (pop pins) from Harbor Freight Tools (Item #97757) Hand Riveter with 40 POM Rivets where the sizes
you need to replace and wheel well ones are there in that kit.
P/N
97757
I used a cardboard template and taped it to the old (R/T) spoiler to mark the
holes and move the template to the SRT one and drilled/slotted the holes as
they were on the R/T unit.
Note:
For a good vendor and comprehensive list for pop-pins, plastic
rivets and clips used on the Dodge Challenger see;
Tip:127 Push/Pop Pins, Plastic Rivets and Clip Replacements!
See also Speedy'
Garage Spoiler installation link below;
KeylessGo and Keeloq Encryption/Cipher
Remote
Keyless Entry System Security
Related modules are WIN (Wireless Ignition Module)
and PEM (Passive Entry Module). Both of
these modules are used in the
keyless go system and use Keeloq
block cipher.
KeeLoq is a proprietary
hardware-dedicated NLFSR-based
block
cipher. The uni-directional command transfer
protocol was designed
by
Frederick Bruwer PhD, CEO at Nanoteq
(Pty) Ltd and the cryptographic algorithm was created by Professor Gideon Kuhn
with the
silicon
implementation by Willem Smit, PhD at Nanoteq Pty Ltd (South
Africa) in the mid 80's and sold to Microchip Technology Inc in
1995
for $10 million. It's used in "code hopping"
encoders and decoders such as NTQ105/106/115/125D/129D and
HCS101/2XX/3XX/4XX/5XX.
KeeLoq is used in the majority of remote keyless entry systems by
such companies as Chrysler, Daewoo, Fiat, GM, Honda, Toyota, Volvo, Volkswagen
Group, Clifford, Shurlok, Jaguar, etc.
More reference material on Keeloq is
available online as well as on Wikipedia; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KeeLoq
How
hard is it to steal a Challenger with Keeloq block
cipher?
KeeLoq is a cipher used in
several car anti-theft mechanisms distributed by Microchip Technology Inc. It
may protect your car if you own a Chrysler, Daewoo, Fiat, General Motors,
Honda, Toyota, Volvo, Volkswagen, or Jaguar. The cipher is included in the
remote control device that opens and locks your car and that activates the
anti-theft mechanisms.
Each device has a unique key that takes 18
billion billion values. With 100 personal computers,
it would take several decades to find such a key.
Therefore KeeLoq was widely believed to be secure. In our research we
have found a method to identify the key in less than a day.
The attack requires access for about 1 hour to the remote control (for example,
while it is stored in your pocket). Once we have
found the key, we can deactivate the alarm and drive away with your car.
This
research is the joint work between 3 research groups: the computer science
department of the Technion, Israel, the research
group COSIC of the Katholieke Universiteit
Leuven, Belgium, and the math department of the Hebrew University, Israel.
Note: The way the researchers were able to
break the cipher in less than a day (typically about 4-5 hours), and if you are
extremely lucky, in about
an hour but that is with multiple computers and very sophisticated custom
written software. Note the required sophisticated radio hardware and software
as well, in addition to the custom hacking code.
Note:
That they are not "attacking" the vehicle, they are attacking
the FOBIK remote! You have to be within 30 ft and be pretty close to the
FOBIK when attacking it. What you are looking for is the special 4 digit PIN
key to derive the unique master key code.
If you are afraid that some highly intelligent, very computer savvy person is
going to steal your Challenger by doing this, lock or secure the FOBIK
when it is not in use (within the vehicle) in a metal box or wrapped in Alum.
foil to prevent access via radio frequency (433mhz).
Thieves with this level of expertise don't go after any old cars, they go after
the high end Mercedes, BMW's, Lexus, etc., the very very
expensive
luxury cars. A local jackleg is not going to be able to do this.
Reference; How
to steal Cars - A practical attack on KEELOQ
Power Top Sunroof - Operations and
Calibration
POWER TOP - SUNROOF - Challenger
(LX) 2009-10
Any diagnosis of the power sunroof system should begin with the use of a scan
tool and the proper Diagnostic Procedures Information. The scan tool can
provide confirmation that the Controller Area Network (CAN) Data Bus is
functional, that all of the electronic modules are sending and receiving the
proper messages on the CAN Data Bus, and that the power sunroof motor is being
sent the proper hard wired output by the sunroof switch.
For complete circuit diagrams, refer to the appropriate wiring information. The
wiring information includes wiring diagrams, proper wire and connector repair
procedures, details of wire harness routing and retention, connector pin-out
information and location views for the various wire harness connectors, splices
and grounds.
SUNROOF OPERATION:
This vehicle
has a vent, tilt and slide power sunroof system with express (one-touch) open
and closing feature. The sunroof system receives constant battery feed through
a fuse in the Power Distribution Center (PDC). The sunroof will operate normally
with the key in any position while the Accessory Delay system is active. If the
sunroof is moving when the key is turned to the START position (crank engine),
all motions stop until the key is released, then the previously requested
sunroof motion will resume. The sunroof
will also complete a requested motion if the Accessory Delay system goes
inactive while the motion is in progress.
A combination push-button and rocker switch module mounted in the overhead
console controls sunroof operation.
The
sunroof switch is a rocker design with a push button in the center of the two
halves of the rocker.
Pressing the rocker towards the front of the
car commands the sunroof closed.
Pressing the rocker towards the rear of the
car commands the sunroof open.
Pressing the center push button commands the
sunroof up into the vent position
(Rear of sunroof glass raises above the vehicle roof
with glass still covering the sunroof
opening).
Pressing
the vent mode button with the
sunroof fully open will close all the way and then retract to the half-open position.
All switch commands
operate with the glass starting in any position.
An electronic control system, integral to the motor/module assembly, provides
the express open and close functions. Pressing the
"open"
or "close" end of the rocker switch moves the sunroof glass panel to
the full open or full closed position, respectively.
During express closing, anytime an obstacle is detected in the way of the
glass, the motor will stop and reverse travel to avoid pinching
an
occupant's finger, ice in the track, etc. This function is called Excessive
Force Limitation (EFL). There are two methods of overriding
the
EFL function.
1. When three EFL events occur without the glass being allowed to fully close,
the next close attempt will only move while the close
switch is continuously actuated. This
allows the sunroof to be forced closed if multiple close attempts fail.
2. If the sunroof close switch is continuously actuated during an EFL event,
through the reversal, and during a two second wait time, then
continuing to hold the close switch
will cause the roof to move towards close with the EFL protection disabled.
This allows the sunroof to
be forced closed if it is known that
a reversal will occur.
While in EFL override, the closing motion will cease if the sunroof switch is
released at any time.
The motor/module is programmed to learn the speed required to drive the panel
based on position and recalibrates itself as needed.
If the sunroof becomes un-calibrated, it will only respond to the vent switch.
If the vent switch is pressed, the glass will move toward vent; if the switch
is released, all motion stops.
In the event that the sunroof system
becomes un-calibrated perform the sunroof position calibration procedure.
SUNROOF POSITION CALIBRATION:
Press the
power sunroof switch (Open, Closed, and Vent). If no movement occurs when
either the open switch or closed switch is pressed, but the system does move when the "vent button" is
pressed and held, the system is not calibrated.
Perform the following procedure to "position calibrate" the power
sunroof system.
1. Turn the ignition to the RUN
position.
2. Press the "vent button" on the power sunroof switch and hold until
the sunroof glass
panel has moved to the full vent
position and the motor movement has stopped for
at least 1 second.
3. Press the "close switch" on the power sunroof switch and hold for
a moment (at least
100ms) and release. The sunroof glass
panel should continue travel to the full close
position. If the sunroof glass panel
does not return to the full close position, refer to
the appropriate diagnostic information
for full system diagnosis.
4.
Verify proper system operation.
EXCESSIVE FORCE LIMITATION (EFL)
CALIBRATION:
NOTE:
Verify the battery is in good condition prior to performing this
procedure.
Do not leave the vehicle on a battery charger while performing this procedure.
If the voltage at the sunroof motor/module drops below 11 volts or
exceeds 15 volts at anytime while this procedure is being performed, the
Excessive Force Limitation (EFL) function will not be properly calibrated.
1. Turn the ignition to the RUN
position.
2. Press the vent button on the power sunroof switch and hold until the sunroof
glass
panel has moved to the full vent
position and the motor movement has stopped for
at least 1 second.
3. Press the close position on the power sunroof switch and release. The
sunroof glass
panel should continue travel to the
full closed position.
[This will be considered the first
sunroof closed position in a series of
four
sunroof closes.]
4. Press the vent button on the power sunroof switch and release. The sunroof
glass
panel should move to the full vent
position. After the sunroof motor/module has
stopped, press the close position on
the power sunroof switch and release. The
sunroof glass panel should continue
travel to the full closed position.
[This
will be considered the second sunroof closed position in a series
of four sunroof closes.]
5. Continue to move the sunroof glass to the “vent” then “closed” positions two
more
times so that the sunroof glass has
moved to the closed position a total of four times
starting with the first sunroof close
in step 3.
6. Press the open position on the power
sunroof switch and release. The sunroof glass
panel should continue travel to the
full open position.
7. Press the close position on the power
sunroof switch and release. The sunroof glass
panel should continue travel to the
full closed position.
[This will be considered the first
sunroof closed position in a series of five sunroof closes. ]
8. Press the open position on the power
sunroof switch and release. The sunroof glass
panel should move to the full open
position. After the sunroof motor/module has
stopped, press the close position on
the power sunroof switch and release. The
sunroof glass panel should continue
travel to the full closed position.
Continue to move the sunroof glass to the “open” then “closed” position
four more times so that the sunroof glass has moved to the closed position a
total of five times starting with the first sunroof close in step 7.
Verify proper EFL calibration by
placing a standard pencil at the front of the sunroof and then moving the
sunroof to the full closed position. The sunroof should reverse direction upon
contact without damage to the pencil.
1. |
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. |
Fuse feed from Power Distribution Center
(rear) [Fuse # 44]
2. |
Remove the overhead console, (Refer to Electrical/8M - Message Systems/Overhead Console -
Removal) . |
3. |
Disconnect the power sunroof switch wire harness connector. |
4. |
Using an ohmmeter, test the continuity of the power sunroof
switch in each switch position. harness and connectors for damage. Use a scan tool and the
proper Diagnostic Procedures Information to complete diagnosis of the power sunroof system.
If not OK, replace the overhead console. |
SWITCH POSITION
|
CONTINUITY BETWEEN PINS
|
OFF |
NO
CONTINUITY |
SUNROOF
OPEN |
B AND D |
SUNROOF
CLOSED |
B AND C |
SUNROOF
VENT |
B AND A |
TORQUE SPEC - Engine 5.7L and 6.1L
DESCRIPTION
|
N·m
|
|
In.
Lbs.
|
Block
Pipe Plugs |
20 |
15 |
— |
(1/4 – 18 NPT) |
|||
(1/4 – 18 NPT) |
34 |
25 |
— |
(3/8 NPT) |
27 |
20 |
— |
Camshaft
Sprocket Bolt |
122 |
90 |
— |
Camshaft
Tensioner Plate Bolts |
28 |
21 |
— |
Coil to
Cylinder Head Cover Bolts |
7 |
- |
62 |
Timing
Chain Case Cover Bolts |
28 |
21 |
— |
Lifting Stud |
55 |
41 |
— |
Connecting
Rod Cap Bolts |
21 |
15 |
— |
Main
Bearing Cap Bolts |
|||
Cylinder
Head Bolts |
|||
Cylinder
Head Cover Bolts |
8 |
— |
71 |
Exhaust
Manifold-to-Cylinder Head |
25 |
18 |
— |
Flexplate-to-Crankshaft Bolts |
95 |
70 |
— |
Flywheel-to-Crankshaft
Bolts |
75 |
55 |
— |
Front
Insulator Through Bolt/Nut |
95 |
70 |
— |
Through
Bolt/Nut (4WD) |
102 |
75 |
— |
Stud
Nut (4WD) |
41 |
30 |
— |
Front
Insulator-to-Block Bolts (2WD) |
95 |
70 |
— |
Intake
Manifold Bolts |
|||
Lifter Guide
Holder |
12 |
9 |
— |
Oil Pan
Bolts |
12 |
9 |
— |
Oil
Dipstick Tube |
12 |
9 |
— |
Oil Pan
Drain Plug |
34 |
25 |
— |
Oil
Pump Attaching Bolts |
28 |
21 |
— |
Oil
Pump Pickup Tube Bolt/Nut |
28 |
21 |
— |
Rear
Seal Retainer Attaching Bolts |
15 |
11 |
— |
Rear
Insulator-to-Bracket Bolt |
68 |
50 |
— |
Rear
Insulator-to-Crossmember |
41 |
30 |
— |
Rear
Insulator-to-Crossmember Bolt |
68 |
50 |
— |
Rear
Insulator-to-Transmission Bolt |
68 |
50 |
— |
Rear
Insulator Bracket Bolts |
68 |
50 |
— |
Rear
Support Bracket Bolt |
41 |
30 |
— |
Rear
Support Plate-to-Transfer Case Bolts |
41 |
30 |
— |
Rocker
Arm Bolts |
22 |
16 |
— |
Thermostat
Housing Bolts |
28 |
21 |
— |
Throttle
Body Bolts |
12 |
9 |
— |
Transfer
Case-to-Insulator Bolt |
204 |
150 |
— |
Transmission
Support Bracket Bolt |
68 |
50 |
— |
Vibration
Damper Bolt |
176 |
130 |
— |
Water
Pump-to-Timing Chain Case Cover Bolts |
28 |
21 |
— |
Engine/Cylinder
Head - Installation
1. |
Tighten the cylinder head bolts 1 through 10 to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.) using the sequence shown. |
Tighten the cylinder head bolts 11 through 15 to 20 N·m (15 ft. lbs.) using the sequence shown. |
|
Tighten the cylinder head bolts 1 through 10 to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) using the sequence shown. |
|
Tighten the cylinder head bolts 11 through 15 to 20 N·m (15 ft. lbs.) using the sequence shown. |
|
Rotate the cylinder head bolts 1 through 10 90° using the
sequence shown. |
|
Tighten the cylinder head bolts 11 through 15 to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.) using the sequence shown. |
Install new intake manifold bolts (with thread lock patch) and tighten to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.) in the
sequence shown.
DESCRIPTION
|
N·m
|
Ft. Lbs.
|
In. Lbs.
|
Camshaft
Position Sensor Mounting Bolts |
12 |
- |
105 |
Crankshaft
Position Sensor Mounting Bolts |
12 |
- |
105 |
Engine
Coolant Temperature Sensor |
28 |
20 |
- |
Knock
Sensor bolt - 3.5L |
10 |
7 |
88.5 |
Manifold
Tuning Valve - 3.5L |
2.8 |
- |
25 |
Oxygen
Sensor |
41 |
30 |
- |
Powertrain
Control Module |
4 |
- |
35 |
Throttle
Body Mounting - 3.5L |
5.5 |
- |
50 |
Throttle
Body Mounting Bracket - 3.5L |
27 |
20 |
- |
Short
Runner Valve - 3.5L |
6.7 |
- |
60 |
Fuel
Rail Bolts - 3.5L |
28 |
- |
250 |
Fuel
Rail Bolts - 5.7, 6.1L |
11 |
- |
100 |
DESCRIPTION
|
N·m |
Ft.
Lbs. |
In.
Lbs. |
||
Block
Pipe Plugs |
|
||||
(1/4
NPT) |
20 |
15 |
- |
||
(3/8
NPT) |
27 |
20 |
- |
||
Camshaft
Sprocket - Bolt |
122 |
90 |
- |
||
Camshaft
Tensioner Plate - Bolts |
28 |
21 |
- |
||
Timing
Chain Case Cover - Bolts |
28 |
21 |
- |
||
Lifting
Stud |
55 |
40 |
- |
||
Connecting
Rod Cap - Bolts |
45 |
33 |
- |
||
Main
Bearing Cap - Bolts |
|
||||
M-12
Bolts |
28 |
21 |
- |
||
Crossbolts |
22 |
16 |
- |
||
Cylinder
Head - Bolts
|
|
||||
M-12
Bolts |
|||||
Step 1 -
Tighten bolts 1-10 |
34 |
25 |
- |
||
Step 2
- Tighten bolts 1-1 0 |
54 |
40 |
- |
||
Step 3
- Rotate bolts 1-10 |
90° |
- |
- |
||
Step 4
- Tighten bolts 11-15 |
34 |
25 |
- |
||
Cylinder Head Cover - Bolts |
8 |
- |
70 |
||
Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head - Bolts |
31 |
23 |
- |
||
Flexplate to
Crankshaft - Bolts |
95 |
70 |
- |
||
Flywheel to Crankshaft - Bolts |
75 |
55 |
- |
||
Front Insulator - Through bolt/nut |
95 |
70 |
- |
||
Front Insulator to Block - Bolts |
95 |
70 |
- |
||
Generator - Mounting Bolt |
55 |
40 |
- |
||
Intake Manifold - Bolts
|
12 |
9 |
106 |
||
Lifter Guide Holder |
12 |
9 |
106 |
||
Piston Oil Cooler Jet - Bolts |
13 |
10 |
115 |
||
Oil Pan - Bolts |
12 |
9 |
105 |
||
Oil Dipstick Tube |
31 |
23 |
- |
||
Oil Pan - Drain Plug |
27 |
20 |
- |
||
Oil Pump - Attaching Bolts |
28 |
21 |
- |
||
Oil Pump Pickup Tube - Bolt and Nut |
28 |
21 |
- |
||
Rear Seal Retainer Attaching Bolts |
15 |
11 |
- |
||
Rear Insulator to Bracket |
68 |
50 |
- |
||
Rear Insulator to Crossmember |
41 |
30 |
- |
||
Rear Insulator to Transmission |
68 |
50 |
- |
||
Rear Insulator Bracket - Bolts |
68 |
50 |
- |
||
Rocker Arm - Bolts |
22 |
16 |
- |
||
Thermostat Housing - Bolts |
28 |
21 |
- |
||
Throttle Body - Bolts |
12 |
9 |
105 |
||
Vibration Damper - Bolt |
176 |
129 |
- |
||
Water Pump to Timing Chain Case Cover - Bolts |
EVIC
Chime Stack
Click on this link for a comprehensive look at the EVIC
Chime stack and code buffer.
Transmission Control Module (TCM) - Limp Mode(s)
Temporary Transmission "Limp Home Mode".
The transmission is monitored for abnormal
conditions. If a condition is detected that could result in transmission
damage, the transmission will engage Limp Home Mode.
If vehicle acceleration worsens or the transmission
no longer shifts, the transmission is most likely operating in the Limp Home
Mode. In this mode, the transmission will remain in the current gear until the
vehicle is brought to a stop.
After the vehicle has stopped, PARK, REVERSE, and NEUTRAL will continue to operate. Second gear
will operate in the DRIVE position.
The Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) may be illuminated.
A reset feature is available to allow the vehicle
to be driven to an authorized dealer for service.
To reset the transmission, use the following
procedure:
1. Stop the
vehicle.
2. Move the
shift lever into the PARK position.
3. Turn the
engine off.
4. Wait
approximately 10 seconds.
5. Restart
the engine.
6. Move the
shift lever into the desired range.
If the problem is no longer detected, the
transmission will return to normal operation.
NOTE:
Even if the transmission can be reset, we recommend
that you visit your authorized dealer at your earliest possible convenience.
Your authorized dealer has diagnostic equipment to determine if the problem
could recur. Have the transmission checked at your
authorized dealer as soon as possible.
If the problem has been momentary, the transmission can be
reset to regain all forward gears.
FAQ (Frequently Asked Question)
Q: I have
a problem with my Challenger in that I have a CEL (Check Engine Light) and the
car is stuck in 2nd gear.
I cannot reset the fault (disconnect battery, etc.) and cannot
drive the car beyond 30 mpg.!?
A: Yes,
as mentioned you have a "hard fault" and the TCM (Transmission
Control Module) has put the vehicle in "permanent limp mode".
You have a solenoid, speed sensor or under voltage control failure of some kind
and the particular ERROR CODE(s) will be stored in the
TCM as a DTC.
The Dealer will be able to hook up to this via StarScan/StarMobile Diagnostic mode and see exactly the nature of
the failure.
Read the following to understand the six different "limp modes" there are in the NAG1
automatic transmission!
TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE (TCM)
CONTROLLER MODES OF OPERATION
*Permanent Limp-In Mode:
When the TCM determines there is a non-recoverable condition present that does
not allow proper transmission operation, it places the transmission in
permanent Limp-In Mode. When the
condition occurs the TCM turns off all solenoids as well as the solenoid supply
output circuit. If this occurs while the vehicle is moving, the transmission
remains in the current gear position until the ignition is turned off or the
shifter is placed in the "P" position. When the shifter has been placed in
"P," the transmission only allows 2nd gear operation. If this occurs while the vehicle is not moving,
the transmission only allows operation in 2nd gear.
*Temporary Limp-In Mode:
This mode is the same as the permanent Limp-In Mode except if the condition is
no longer present, the system resumes normal operation.
*Under Voltage Limp-In Mode
When the TCM detects that system voltage has dropped below 8.5 volts, it
disables voltage-dependant diagnostics and places the transmission in the
temporary Limp-In Mode. When the TCM senses that the voltage has risen above
9.0 volts, normal transmission operation is resumed.
*Hardware Error Mode:
When the TCM detects a major internal error, the transmission is placed in the
permanent Limp-In Mode and ceases all communication over the CAN bus. When the
TCM has entered this mode normal transmission operation does not resume until
all DTCs are cleared from the TCM.
*Loss of Drive:
If the TCM detects a situation that has resulted or may result in a
catastrophic engine or transmission problem, the transmission is placed in the
neutral position. Improper Ratio, Input Sensor Overspeed
or Engine Overspeed DTCs cause the loss of drive.
*Controlled Limp-in Mode:
When a failure does not require the TCM to shut down the solenoid supply, but
the failure is severe enough that the TCM places the transmission into a
predefined gear, there are several shift performance concerns. For instance, if
the transmission is slipping, the controller tries to place the transmission
into 3rd gear and maintain 3rd gear for all forward drive conditions.
The link below provides even more important
operational information about the Dodge NAG1 transmission mysterious "Limp
Modes" and how they work.
http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/TCM-NAG1.htm
PCM MONITORED COMPONENT
There are several components that will
affect vehicle emissions if they malfunction.
If one of these components malfunctions the Malfunction Indicator Lamp
(Check Engine) will illuminate. Some of
the component monitors are checking for proper operation of the part. Electrically
operated components now have input (rationality) and output (functionality)
checks as well as continuity tests (opens/shorts).
PCM
MONITORED SYSTEM COMPONENTS
KeyLess Go Ignition/Pushbutton functions
No
need to try to play around to figure things out here.... Your owner's manual
clearly describes Keyless Go operations.
If
you have Keyless Go, you have EVIC (Electronic Vehicle Information Center) as
well...
Keyless Go ACC/IGN (ON) Display
2009 Challenger R/T owner's manual (pg. 175)
2009 Challenger SRT owner's manual (pg. 175)
2010 Challenger R/T owner's manual (pg. 181)
2010 Challenger SRT owner's manual (pg. 181)
Keyless Go Display — If Equipped (EVIC)
When the ENGINE START/STOP button is pressed to
change ignition switch positions, the Keyless Go icon momentarily appears in
the EVIC display showing the new ignition switch position.
START:
To change the ignition switch positions without
starting the vehicle (do not step on brake) and use the accessories follow
these steps.
•
Starting with the ignition switch in the OFF position:
•
Press the ENGINE START/STOP button once to change the ignition switch to the
ACC position (EVIC displays “IGNITION MODE ACCESSORY”),
•
Press the ENGINE START/STOP button a second time to change the ignition switch
to the ON/RUN position (EVIC displays “IGNITION MODE RUN”),
•
Press the ENGINE START/STOP button a third time to return the ignition switch
to the OFF position (EVIC displays “IGNITION MODE OFF”).
NOTE:
Under certain conditions, the display
may be superseded by another display of higher priority.
But when the ignition switch position is changed, the display
always re-appears.
Now, if you not have a digital copy of your owner's manual on your computer,
you can easily and quickly download a standard Adobe .PDF file of your model
year at;
http://www.dodge.com/en/owners/manuals/
Save this
document in your MyDocuments folder and then create a
shortcut to it from your desktop. You can have this manual up in less than two
mouse clicks, and you USE the SEARCH window to locate anything you are looking
for in this large document very fast.
For
more specific information on the
Keyless Go system and possible battery discharge see Tip:142 Keyless Go Button (Tech Tip & Operation
Info)
TCM
Adaptation - NAG1 Only
The adaptation procedure requires the use of the appropriate
scan tool. This program allows the electronic transmission system to
re-calibrate itself.
This will provide the proper baseline transmission operation. The adaptation
procedure should be performed if any of the following procedures are
performed:
Transmission Assembly Replacement
Transmission Control Module Replacement
Clutch Plate and/or Seal Replacement
Electrohydraulic Unit Replacement or Recondition
With the scan tool, reset the
Transmission adaptives. |
NOTE: |
Perform the Coast Down Adaptations first. The Transmission
Temperature must be greater than 60°C (140°F) |
2. |
Drive the vehicle until the
transmission temperature is in the specified range. |
3. |
Perform 4 to 5 coast downs from 5th
to 4th gear and then 4th to 3rd gear. |
NOTE: |
For Upshift adaptation, the Transmission
temperature must be greater than 60°C (140°F) and less than 100°C (212°F). |
4. |
From a stop, moderately accelerate
the vehicle and obtain all forward gear ranges while keeping the Engine RPM
below 1800 RPM. |
5. |
Obtaining 5th gear may be difficult
at 1800 RPM. Allow the transmission to shift into 5th gear at a higher RPM
then lower the |
6. |
The TCM will store the adaptives every 10 minutes. After completion of the
adaptation procedure make sure the vehicle stays |
7. |
It is possible to manually store the adaptives under the 10 minute time frame using the scan
tool Store Adaptives procedure. |
|
|
Oil Change Required Light and how it works
The main computer in the vehicle
has the ability to model or trend the condition of the engine oil and
accurately predict when the oil should be changed.
How is this done?
Here is what the owner's manual says.
"The engine
oil change indicator system is duty cycle based, which means the engine oil
change interval may fluctuate dependent upon your personal driving style."
Duty
cycle is not a time period per se', but event(s) occurring in either a fixed or
variable frequency time base as a percentage of that specific time base
(example
25% or 80% duty cycle). In other words, the duty cycle is the
fraction of time that a system is in an "active" state.
In particular its use in the following context:
In a periodic phenomenon, the ratio of the duration of the phenomenon in a
given period to the period.
Duty
cycle (D) = T1 / T2
where;
T1 is the duration that the function is "active high"
(normally when signal is greater than zero);
Τ2 is the period of
the function.
Note: T2 may not be a
"fixed" time period.
What does all this
mean? It means that the PCM or in this
case NGC (Next Generation Controller) can accurately model the quality of the
engine oil and use this in its overall algorithm to evaluate or
"rationalize" engine oil quality.
It is this rationalization of the required inputs from sensors that the
NGC controllers rise above their previous power train control modules (PCM). So the NGC is looking at several inputs to
use these in factors in determining oil quality.
This is done during
the "cooling down" period of time subsequent to a engine
shutdown. This cooling down period is
mentioned several times in evaluation of DTC's or rationalizations of several
systems monitored by the NGC. This
period of time for cool down is 480 min's or 8 hours. At the end of this time period, a "cool
down" event has ended.
The owner's manual and the service
manual for the 2008-2010 model Challengers does not describe how this system
works. It only describes some aspects of
how it makes the "Change Oil Required" warning lamp to
illuminate.
Since the Oil Condition Trend Algorithm is a patented process, there are
some strong similarities in how the OCT is developed in the Dodge Challenger
NGC system. The sensors
"required" to do this are indeed present and available to the
NGC. Part of the process is indeed
described in the Service Manual (2009 Service Information (LC) Challenger p/n 81-270-09041-CD) in different areas of electronic
descriptions for DTC and monitored component.
But, alas specific the details describing the exact modeling are not
available to the public. I suspect this
is due to the United States Patent
#6509749.
Irregardless, the modeling algorithm is there
and some associated aspects need to be described.
1. If you change oil before the
"Oil Change Required" light comes on, the NGC will not know or detect
this. It will only affect the results
of the modeling algorithm and
perhaps delay the outcome until "limits" are reached (ie. monitored mileage, etc.)
2. If you change your own oil you
should "reset" the NGC so that it will begin a "new"
modeling period.
See Tip:38 Reset the "Oil Change Required" message in the EVIC:
3. If you change your own oil at
predetermined mileage intervals that are prior to recommended periods then this
is academic and you
simply reset the OCR system as is
needed to avoid the nuisance display warnings.
Oil Condition Trend Algorithm
An algorithm by
which a time normalized oil condition trend (OCT) is developed. During engine
off periods, while the engine is cooling, the vehicle's main computer program
implements the trend algorithm according to the present invention by which
engine oil conductivity (oil sensor output voltage) and temperature data are
obtained in a specified temperature range, and are then input into a cool down
equation to determine its coefficients using nonlinear regression.
This cool down
equation models oil conductivity as a function of temperature and is used at a
specified time during an engine-on period to calculate an OCT point.
Collectively,
these OCT points determine the oil condition trend that is analyzed by a
procedure called from the vehicle's main computer program to determine when an
oil change is necessary.
The method of wherein the cool down equation of said step of
generating is given by V=aT
Wherein;
V is a voltage output of the oil condition sensor.
T is a plurality of temperatures selected over said range of cooling.
a, b and c are constants.
Source: http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6509749.html
Document: Download
PDF 6509749
In conclusion;
In
the Challenger NGC (PCM) is a software routine (ie.
mathematical modeling algorithm) that over time evaluates the number of
cool-down cycles, WOT modes, engine runtime hours (start cycles, etc) and
mileage factors.
Like
the description above, the NGC also monitors oil “conductivity” to learn and
track the moisture content which degrades oil viscosity and lubrication ability
over time. Using the oil pressure, oil temperature and other vital
engine sensor inputs the PCM (NGC) can determine the engine oil viscosity.
Incorrect viscosity will affect the
operation of the MDS by delaying
cylinder activation.
FOBIK "TRAPPED" IN WIN (Wireless Ignition Node)
The following descriptions will
describe how the FOBIK when used as a "key" may become stuck where it
cannot be removed.
Some of this by design is for safety purposes and others may be due to dead
battery state.
FOBIK REMOVAL INHIBIT FUNCTION
The key removal inhibit solenoid internal to the WIN
prevents the FOB with Integrated Key (FOBIK) from being rotated in the ignition
switch to the LOCK position for all vehicles with an automatic transmission
unless the transmission shift lever is in the PARK position.
Automatic
or Manual Transmission:
The WIN module monitors a hard wired input from a switch
integral to the automatic “transmission shifter module” to control this
feature.
The key removal inhibit solenoid is electronically disabled internally by the
WIN on vehicles with a “manual transmission”.
FOBIK TRAPPED IN WIN (Wireless Ignition Node)
The FOB with Integrated Key (FOBIK) cannot be rotated to the LOCK position, allowing it to be
removed from the ignition switch also referred to as Wireless Ignition Node (WIN).
The automatic transmission is shifted mechanically through a cable from the
gearshift lever mechanism to the transmission or transaxle valve body. A gated
park switch is physically located on and integral to the gearshift lever
mechanism and is hard wired directly to the WIN.
The gated park switch is a simple plunger-like actuated open or closed contact
switch that could be considered redundant to the Transmission Range Sensor
(TRS) except that it monitors the position selected with the gearshift lever,
while the TRS monitors the position or gear of the transmission that is
actually engaged. A damaged or improperly adjusted gearshift cable could result
in a different gear being engaged than that which is selected.
The WIN uses the gated park switch input to control an internal key lock
solenoid, which controls whether the FOBIK can be rotated to the LOCK position.
When the gearshift lever is not in the PARK
position, the gated park switch is a closed circuit, the key lock solenoid is
energized and the FOBIK cannot be rotated to the LOCK position for removal.
NOTE:
If your vehicle has a completely dead battery, and
you used the valet key to get inside the vehicle and note that nothing is
working, in placing the FOBIK in the WIN and trying to see if you can “start”
the engine (nothing happens on dead battery) you may find that the FOBIK has
now become "trapped" in the WIN and cannot be removed.
By trying to force the FOBIK out with brute force will only damage the WIN module and it will need to be
subsequently replaced.
You will have to CHARGE the vehicles battery up enough to see activity on the
EVIC at which time you should be able to get the "solenoid pin" to
activate and release the FOBIK from the WIN.
Push/Pop Pins,
Plastic Rivets and Clip Replacements!
IF
you do much with your vehicle on door panels, spoilers, rear fascia or anything
with those dang plastic pins, rivets and clips you need to find a place that
carries an excellent selection. You will
be in for severe sticker shock if you choose to go to the dealer for some of
these inexpensive parts!
Look
at the index below and associated Dodge part number(s).
Bookmark this
following link; ClipsAndFasteners.com
- Automotive Retainers, Clips and Fasteners
TRIM PANEL RETAINER
Mopar
PN 3691950
Fender & Bumper Shield Retainer
Black Nylon
Head Diameter: 11/16"
Stem Diameter: 5/16"
Stem Length: 5/8"
Replaces GM: 332364; Ford: 389358; Chrysler:
3691590, 6031321; AMC: 4004569
50 Per Package @ $5.02
FENDER MUDSKIRT Mopar PN 34201621
Head Diameter: 11/16"
Panel Range: 9/16"
Fits Into 1/4" Hole
Replaces GM #14019205 & Chrysler
#34201621
50 Per Package @ $5.99
Chrysler Push Type Retainer Mopar PN
5160260-AA
Rear Bumper, Tail Light and Fender Push-Type Retainer
Black Nylon
Head Diameter: 18mm
Stem Length: 20mm
Fits Into 8mm Hole
Replaces Chrysler: 5160260-AA Dodge Caliber and Jeep Compass & Patriot 2007 – On
15 Per Package @ $7.79
Chrysler Push Type Door Panel Retainer
Mopar PN OWX68BD1-AA
Door Trim Panel Push-Type Retainer
Tan Nylon
Head Diameter: 22mm
Stem Length: 10mm
Fits Into 9mm Hole
Replaces Chrysler: OWX68BD1-AA 300M and Dodge Charger & Magnum 2005 - On
25 Per Package @ $11.20
Chrysler Door Panel Retainer (Male) A20274
Door Panel Retainer
White Nylon
Top Head Diameter: 13mm
Bottom Head Diameter: 23mm
Stem Diameter: 6.5mm
Stem Length: 20mm
Use With A20275
Chrysler LH Series 2000 - On
25 Per Package @ $6.56
Chrysler Door Panel Retainer (Female)
A20275
Door Panel Grommet
White Nylon
Head Diameter: 19mm
Stem Length: 12mm
Fits Into 9mm Hole
Use With A20274
Chrysler LH Series 2000 - On
25 Per Package @ $5.54
1/4" (6.3mm) Black Nylon Black Rivets,
Mopar PN 6500911
Fits 1/4" (6.6mm) Hole
Panel Range (grip) 5/32" - 13/32"
Flange Size: 43/64"
Black Nylon
Replaces G.M. # 14063981, Ford N803043-S & Chrysler 6500911
25 Per Package @ $4.99
Push Type Retainer Chrysler Mopar PN
6503598
Head Diameter: 20mm
Stem Length: 20mm
Fits Into 5/16" (8mm) Hole
GM Saturn 2 Door & 4 Door Models
Replaces GM # 21030249, Ford # N807389S And Chrysler # 6503598
25 Per Package @ $4.79
Dash
Power Plug Modification
Modify
dash power plug (cigarette lighter plug) to always be powered like the one
inside the center console.
The dash
plug below the Radio is tied to the AUX
power system and will be powered off at about an hour after you shut the car
off.
To make the cigarette lighter power connector be "hot" even with the
car off go to the PDC (Power
Distribution Center) Fuse Box in
your trunk and open it. (It's located in the spare tire well.)
When
you open the fuse box, look on the inside of the fuse box lid and you will see
a numbered layout of the fuses.
Look
for Fuse #18 with letters "IGN" (Ignition) label printed on
the plastic right below it. It will be a bright yellow 20-amp fuse that is
offset from the other 4 or 5 in its particular row. Unplug it, and plug it into
the first two holes so that it is in line with the rest of the fuses in that
little row (undo its offset).
Now
your cigarette lighter in the dash will be powered
all the time. The best part about this fuse, is that when you place it in the
"Always On" block, it frees up that previous accessory connection
that you can use for another "Remote Wire" connection on something
like an amplifier, since there isn't one coming off of the head unit on our
stock radios.
NAG1 Automatic Transmission Fill
[The following tip is provided courtesy of Kruzer.]
To avoid overfilling transmission after
a fluid change or overhaul, perform the following procedure:
1. Verify that the vehicle is parked on a level surface.
2. Remove the dipstick tube cap.
3. Add following initial quantity of Mopar® ATF +4, Automatic Transmission
Fluid, to the transmission:
a. If only fluid
and filter were changed, add 5.0 L (10.6pts.) of transmission fluid to
transmission.
b. If the transmission
was completely overhauled or the torque converter was replaced or drained, add
7.7 L (16.3 pts.) of transmission
fluid to transmission.
4. Check the transmission fluid
and adjust as
required.
FLUID/FILTER SERVICE
Fluid/Filter Service Points
1 - OIL FILTER
2 - OIL PAN GASKET
3 - OIL PAN
4 - RETAINER
5 - BOLT
1. Run the engine until the transmission oil reaches operating
temperature.
2. Raise and support vehicle.
3. Remove the bolts (5) and retainers (4) holding the oil pan to
the transmission.
4. Remove the transmission oil pan (3) and gasket (2) from the
transmission.
5. Remove the transmission oil filter (1) and o-ring from the electrohydraulic control unit.
6. Clean the inside of the oil pan (3) of any debris. Inspect the
oil pan gasket (2) and replace if necessary.
7. Install a new oil filter (1) and o-ring into the electrohydraulic control unit.
8. Install the oil pan (3) and gasket (2) onto the transmission.
9. Install the oil pan bolts (5) and retainers (4). Torque the
bolts to 8 N·m (70 in.lbs.).
10. Lower the vehicle and add 5.0 L (10.6 pts.) of transmission
fluid to the transmission.
11. Check the oil level
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID
NOTE: Refer to Service Procedures in this group for fluid level
checking procedures.
Mopar® ATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid is the recommended fluid for
Chrysler automatic transmissions.
Dexron II
fluid IS NOT recommended. Clutch chatter can result from the use of improper
fluid.
Mopar® ATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid when new is red in
color. The ATF is dyed red so it can be identified from other fluids used in
the vehicle such as engine oil or antifreeze. The red color is not permanent
and is not an indicator of fluid condition. As the vehicle is driven, the ATF
will begin to look darker in color and may eventually become brown. This is
normal. ATF+4 also has a unique odor that may change with age.
Consequently, odor and color cannot be used to indicate the fluid condition or
the need for a fluid change.
FLUID ADDITIVES
Chrysler strongly recommends against the addition of any fluids to the
transmission, other than those automatic transmission fluids listed above.
Exceptions to this policy are the use of special dyes to aid in detecting fluid
leaks.
Various “special” additives and supplements exist that claim to improve shift
feel and/or quality. These additives and others also claim to improve converter
clutch operation and inhibit overheating, oxidation, varnish, and sludge. These
claims have not been supported to the satisfaction of Chrysler and these
additives must not be used. The use of transmission “sealers” should
also be avoided, since they may adversely affect the integrity of transmission
seals.
NOTE: See also Tip:59 NAG1 Dipstick and Transmission
Level Checking (AUTO)
Stuck CD in MyGig Multidisc player?
HELP?!
An old cd stuck in mygig!
I finally got around to loading up a bunch of CD’s in MYGig
model RER in my 2010 SRT8.
The first 4 CD’s went fine until I loaded in an old scratched Door’s CD.
Now it looks like its stuck in some type of loop trying to read the CD and it
will not "eject".
I have been pushing the stop soft button many times, the open/close hard
button. Turned it off then back on many times.
I lost at this point. Anyone have an issue like this where you cannot get the
CD out. It just says “cannot open during recording”
or
something like that and it says recording 0%..
I don’t see anything in the manual. HELP!
Answer:
For RER (Nav Enabled MyGIG Radios) -
Press the SEEKUP - SEEKDOWN - and NAV hard
keys on the radio all at the same time to eject the CD.
For REN (Non Nav Enabled MyGIG Radios) -
Press the SEEKUP - SEEKDOWN -
and AUDIO hard keys on the radio all at the same
time to eject the CD
Need more help? Go to http://mofv.com/mygig/
Fixed!?
Thanks
all, I could not stand it anymore, so late last night I went out and pushed the
open/close button and it opened and
out comes the old CD...
Custom
FOBIK covers
For those interested in protecting those expensive electronic
keys, there is a vendor that provides a good selection of different colored
slip-on RKE covers.
IF your FOBIK is going to be subjected to a number of different
conditions, wet fingers, dirty hands, etc, this looks like a good way to
protect that key!
http://www.thejacketstore.com/servlet/StoreFront
Uconnect Phone Compatibility List
For those with mobile phones and a need to see the "Uconnect" compatibility listing to see if you or a spouse's phone is support through the Uconnect feature in your Challenger (or Dodge vehicle 2007-2009), go to the following link for a current list;
https://www.dodge.com/en/owners/pdf/download/Phone_Compatibility_Document.pdf
Tip:133
Challenger CHIME WARNING SYSTEM
The
chime warning system uses an electromechanical transducer and an
electromechanical relay that are soldered onto the electronic circuit board
inside of the CCN (Cab Compartment Node).
The CCN is also
known as the vehicle’s dash “Instrument Cluster”. The system provides an
audible indication of various vehicle conditions that may require the attention
of the vehicle operator or occupants. The CCN
also includes the hardware and software necessary to serve as the electronic
body control module and is sometimes referred to as the Cab Compartment Node or CCN.
The electromechanical transducer generates beep tones and
chime tones, while the electromechanical relay generates click tones to emulate
the sounds associated with conventional turn signal and hazard warning flasher
operation. The microprocessor-based CCN
utilizes electronic chime request messages received from other modules in the vehicle
over the CAN (Controller Area Network) data bus along with hardwired inputs to
monitor many sensors and switches throughout the vehicle. In response to those
inputs, the circuitry and programming of the CCN allow it to control the audible outputs that are produced
through its on-board transducer and relay.
The chime warning system operates on battery voltage
received through a fuse in the Junction Block (JB) on a non-switched fused B(+)
circuit so that the system may operate regardless of the ignition switch
position. The chime warning system also monitors the ignition switch position
so that some chime features are functional only with the ignition switch in the
On position, while others are functional regardless of the ignition switch
position.
The chime warning system provides an audible indication to
the vehicle operator or occupants under the following conditions:
Airbag Indicator
Warning - The Instrument Cluster also known as
the Cab Compartment Node (CCN) transducer
will generate one short chime when the ignition switch is in the On position,
and an electronic message is received over the Controller Area Network (CAN)
data bus from the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) requesting “Airbag”
indicator illumination. This warning will only occur following completion of
the “Airbag” indicator bulb test, and will only occur once during any ignition
cycle.
Compass
Mini-Trip Computer Global Reset -
The CCN transducer will generate one
short chime when the ignition switch is in the On position, and an electronic
message is received over the CAN data bus from the optional Compass Mini-Trip
Computer (CMTC) requesting that the CMTC average fuel economy, trip odometer
and distance to empty data be reset. The CMTC monitors hard wired inputs from
the U.S./Metric and Reset button switches to determine the proper reset
messages to send to the CCN.
Door Ajar
Indicator Warning - The CCN transducer will generate one short chime when the ignition
switch is in the On position, a hardwired input is received indicating that the
status of any door ajar switch has changed, and an electronic message is
received over the CAN data bus indicating that the vehicle is moving.
Fasten Seat Belt
Indicator Warning - The CCN transducer will generate repetitive chimes at a slow rate to
announce that a hardwired input from the seat belt switch indicates that the
driver side front seat belt is not fastened with the ignition switch in the On
position. The chime warning system also supports the enhanced seat belt
reminder (beltminder) when this feature is enabled.
Gate Ajar
Indicator Warning - The CCN transducer will generate one short chime when the ignition
switch is in the On position, a hardwired input is received indicating that the
status of the liftgate ajar or trunk lid switch has
changed, and an electronic message is received over the CAN data bus indicating
that the vehicle is moving.
Head/Park
Lamps-On Warning - The CCN transducer will generate repetitive chimes at a fast rate to
indicate that hardwired inputs from the driver door ajar switch, the headlamp
switch, and the ignition switch indicate that the exterior lamps are turned On
with the driver side front door opened and the ignition switch in the Off
position. The chimes will continue to sound until the exterior lamps are turned
Off, the driver side front door is closed, or the ignition switch is turned to
the On position, whichever occurs first.
Key-In-Ignition
Warning - The CCN transducer will generate repetitive chimes at a fast rate to
indicate that hardwired inputs from the driver door ajar switch, the ignition
switch, and the key-in ignition switch circuitry of the ignition switch
indicate that the key is in the ignition lock cylinder with the driver side
front door open and the ignition switch in the Off position. The chimes will
continue to sound until the key is removed from the ignition lock cylinder, the
driver side front door is closed, or the ignition switch is turned to the On
position, whichever occurs first.
Low Fuel
Indicator Warning - The CCN transducer will generate one short chime when the low fuel
indicator is illuminated by the instrument cluster circuitry. This chime will
only occur once during any ignition cycle.
Overspeed
Warning (
Park Brake
Reminder - The CCN transducer will generate one short chime to announce that the
hardwired input from the parking brake switch and a vehicle speed message input
received over the CAN data bus indicate that the parking brake is applied and
the vehicle is moving. This chime will repeat each time the input conditions
are met.
Sentry Key
“Customer Learn” Mode Announcement -
The CCN transducer will generate one
short chime to confirm that an electronic “Customer Learn” mode message has
been received over the CAN data bus to indicate that the Sentry Key Remote
Entry Module (SKREEM) is prepared for programming additional sentry key
transponders. This chime feature is only active on vehicles equipped with the
optional Sentry Key system, and sold in a market where “Customer Learn”
programming is an allowed feature.
Trans Overtemp Indicator Warning - The CCN
transducer will generate repetitive chimes at a slow rate when the transmission
overtemp indicator is illuminated by the instrument
cluster for a high or critical transmission fluid temperature condition. This
chime will repeat each time the trans overtemp
indicator is cycled from Off to On.
Turn Signal/Hazard
Warning Flasher Emulation - The CCN relay will generate repetitive
clicks at a slow rate to emulate an electromechanical flasher when the turn
signal or hazard warning system are operating. The CCN relay will generate repetitive clicks at a fast rate to
indicate that the right or left turn signal are operating with one or more
bulbs inoperative. In either case, the clicks will continue until the turn
signal and hazard warning systems are turned off.
Turn Signal On
Warning - The CCN transducer will generate repetitive chimes at a slow rate to
indicate that a turn signal has been active continuously for 1.6 kilometers (1
mile) with the vehicle speed greater than 22 kilometers-per-hour (15 miles-per
hour). Vehicles built for markets other than the
Warning
Indicator Announcement - The CCN transducer will generate one short
chime each time the check gauges indicator is illuminated by the instrument
cluster circuitry. The check gauges indicator may be illuminated when any
critical engine or transmission systems are operating outside of their normal
parameters. The instrument cluster monitors electronic messages received over
the CAN data bus to determine when to illuminate the check gauges indicator.
The CCN provides
chime service for all available features in the chime warning system.
The CCN relies
upon its internal programming, numerous hardwired inputs, and electronic
message inputs received from other modules over the CAN data bus network to
provide the chime warning system features. The internal programming of the CCN determines the priority of each
chime request input that is received, as well as the rate and duration of each
chime that is to be generated.
The hardwired chime warning system inputs to the CCN may be diagnosed and tested using
conventional diagnostic tools and procedures. However, conventional diagnostic
methods may not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the CCN, the CAN data bus, or the electronic messages received by the CCN from other modules.
The most reliable, efficient and accurate means to diagnose
the CCN, the CAN data bus, or the
electronic message inputs used for the chime warning system requires the use of
a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.
Tip:134
EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM INTEGRITY MONITOR
(ESIM)
The ESIM is part of the overall emissions control and controls fumes
from the fuel to escape to the atmosphere.
During refueling, pressure is built up in the evaporative
system. When pressure approximately .5
inches of water, the large check valve unseats and pressure vents to the fresh
air filter.
Conversely, when the system cools and the resulting vacuum
lifts the small check valve from its seat and allows fresh air to enter the
system and relieve the vacuum condition. When a calibrated amount of vacuum is
achieved in the evaporative system, the diaphragm is pulled inward, pushing on
the spring and closing the contacts.
The ESIM conducts test on the evaporative system as follows:
An engine off, non-intrusive test for small leaks and an engine running,
intrusive test for medium/large leaks.
However, the design of the ESIM has been simplified and
unlike the NVLD the ESIM does not require a solenoid. The ESIM mounts directly
to the canister, eliminating the need for a mounting bracket. It is critical
that the ESIM is mounted vertically. On vehicles where the canister is mounted
on an angle, the ESIM requires an adaptor to maintain a vertical position.
More detailed information can be found at: http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/ESIM_EVAP.htm
Challenger
Trunk Cargo Net Mod
Below
is a method of attaching/installing a badly needed CARGO NET. I wanted to be
able to stick a box or bags of items in the trunk and not have them fly around
OR COME on through the back seat (as they easily fold down if you check).
The pictures at the link below are one of many ways I'm sure of doing this mod
but I've not seen anyone attack the problem yet, so here is one way I
approached this. You have two sturdy stud mounts for the rear taillights
(1/4" coarse thread) with two rather large plastic retaining wing nuts.
The other two for the taillight are behind the trunk molding and are not
readily accessible in case you have to change a taillight bulb.
So in looking at anchor points for a cargo net, these are the only viable
points I can readily see to use.
I
looked at the stock large plastic wing nut and I guess if you wanted, you could
hang the net loops behind it and screw the nut down on them but I didn't think
that was a good method so I looked around.
I
found a GM cargo net hook/nut and threaded it to fit the Challenger, but the
unit is a tad too small to handle the double loops of a good quality net so I
made my own out of 304 stainless 1/8 in flat stock 1-1/8 in x 2-1/4 in and made
a 45 deg. bend in center.
Note the double recessed hook design to accommodate double loop netting. (see
pictures at link below) You may get ideas of your own here.
http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/Challenger%20Cargo%20Net%20Mod.htm
The Custom UltraViolet SunShield
I have used several so far in looking at one that I feel is the best
for my vehicle. I did not care if the price was 20 bucks or $50 bucks as I
wanted the Best for my Challenger. It gets freaking hot as holy hell in my car
and I can fry bacon on my dashboard....
No wonder my FOBIK quit working when the interior gets 120+deg.F
Ok, here is what I found as a perfect fit, custom, folding and although a bit
pricey, it is high quality and a good buy.
It will take about 2-3 weeks to get it, as they are custom made and are very
high quality. And you will NOTICE that the vehicle is much
cooler, not "cold" but considerably cooler and your seat belt buckle
won't give you 2nd degree burns when you try to buckle up....
NOTE: I bought one of these for my 2009 Challenger R/T vehicle.
#97313 - Ultraviolet Heat Shield
http://www.drivingcomfort.com/ultrav...eat-shield.cfm
Note:
I noted that there is no part number for 2010
Challengers? I really do not know
why as there are no interior differences
between the model years 2008-2009 to 2010.
So if you have a 2010 and want one, order a 2009 part number above and I
would be extremely surprised if for some reason the windshield screen did not
fit. I cannot see why it would not fit
as the windshield and dash are the same size(s).
Change
your steering wheel badge!
For
those of us who don't want the rams head,
there is a nice little "upgrade" for some. Here's a site for 3-d
decals for various
applications including steering wheel badge. http://www.eu-decals.com/
with reasonable prices. They have both R/T and SRT.
You
have to remove the rams head, and if you pry it off,
it can damage the area surrounding it so you will have to unbolt it.
Installation
It's
a bit involved, but not terrible.
First, remove the two bolts holding the airbag assembly/center cover to the
wheel. If you look at the rear of the wheel spokes, you
will
see two tapered openings with a couple 10mm head bolts in them. Once you loosen
those 2 bolts, the whole airbag assembly will
be
loose to pull out. Pull it out a SHORT DISTANCE. You will need to disconnect
the horn wire at the top, and the two firing connectors
to
the airbag before pulling it out very far. There isn't a lot of wire there.
Don't yank it loose!
Once the airbag and cover are completely loose, flip it face down and you'll
notice the rubbery cover has a number of square holes
inside the portion that attaches to the metal frame. Push in at the front of
the cover while prying gently outwards at the corresponding
point all the way around the cover until all the holes in the airbag cover are
loose from the frame. The frame and airbag can now be
removed from the cover and the airbag and frame set aside.
Look at the back of the cover. There are two circuit boards bonded to the
inside of the cover.
This
is different from the Charger/Magnum crowd -08 and down. Don't know about '09.
You will be able to see the attachments for
the emblem if you look in the space between the two circuit boards. There are
three metal clips that hold the emblem on. The one
that can be easily seen in the gap between those circuit boards is pretty
simple to get loose using an angled pick tool. The other two
are under one of the circuit boards. The
boards with the horn contacts are clear plastic with the horn contacts and
circuits bonded
to them. Since they are clear, you'll be able to see the other two clips on the
emblem, but they are difficult to get at.
There
is enough space to reach behind the boards with a 90 degree pick tool and
slowly work them off of the emblem. Be careful
not
to let the tool slip and nick up the horn circuit bonded to the board near the
clips.
Some people have managed to just pull the emblem loose, but that leaves those 3
clips floating around inside the cover where they
will
eventually fall down and start to rattle. There is the possibility that these
loose plastic clips will find their way down into the turn
signal
stalk switch contact assembly and cause the auto-cancel to no longer work
correctly. It also makes it likely that
you will rip
or distort the cover.
Once the emblem is off, re-assemble the wheel completely. Get some rubbing
alcohol and clean the area a couple times where the
emblem
was. Let dry and bond the new emblem in place.
Took about 15-20 minutes to do. So it is more about patience here.
Courtesy
Light Wiring Information (Interior Lighting Mod)
Courtesy
Light Wiring (C204) Information;
For those installing footwell LED strip
lights under the dash to illuminate the front floorboards.
This info would be useful to anyone who wants to tie into the
cabin area courtesy light circuit.
This way your additional footwell
lighting or LED strips will work along with the cabin area lighting control.
There is a connector behind the Passenger side "A"
Pillar, and if you tap into the wire Yellow
with White Stripe, connector
terminal position #6, that will give you 12V (+) and connector terminal 12, Black with Green Stripe will give you the Ground (-).
Here's a connector pin out below;
Manual
6-speed transmission drain and refill (TR6060)
From the Dodge
Challenger Service Manual:
CAUTION:
Hypoid gear lube must not be used in this transmission. Use of hypoid gear lube
will cause
hard shifting effort/transmission failure.
Use only approved lubricant as noted below.
1. With vehicle transmission neutral, position vehicle on hoist or lift.
2. Remove belly pan to gain access to transmission area.
3. Remove drain plug located on the right side of the transmission tail
housing.
4. Remove transmission fill plug located on the left side of the transmission
case. Drain all oil.
5. Install drain plug into tail housing and tighten to 27 N·m
(20 ft. lbs.).
6. Fill transmission with Mopar ® ATF + 4. The transmission is full when the
fluid level is even
with the bottom of the fill
hole.
Note: Capacity is approximately 4 qts
but, to be safe buy 5. I would also
recommend going to
Amsoil
full synthetic fluid (used in Viper) or Redline D4. These have been known to
"improve" shifting.
7. Install transmission fill plug (1) and tighten to 27 N·m
(20 ft. lbs.).
8. Install belly pan.
The
Dodge manual says to change the fluid in the manual transmission every 24,000
miles
Manual
Gear Shift Tip(s)
I
had heard these before but it's actually mentioned in the Dodge Challenger's
Owner's Manual.
Do
not rest your hand on the gear shift
as it can damage the synchronizers over time.
Resting
your hand on the gearshift lever imparts an additional thrust load on the shift
fork and
sleeve for whatever gear you happen to be in (most often it seems to be 4th)
and accelerates
the wear between the two.
Another tip is not
to leave your foot on the clutch even a bit as you drive, it's not a dead pedal
and it is either on or off (hydraulic assisted).
Failure to press the clutch pedal fully to the floor may cause
increased shift efforts, and
may result in damage to the clutch and transmission.
Ref: 2010 Dodge
Challenger Owner's Manual pg. 246 - Starting and Operating.
See
also: Tip:60 SKIPSHIFT:
Modification to eliminate 1-4 shifting (Manual).
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve on Dodge Challenger
Why use a Fumoto drain valve?
1.
Reduces Oil Changing Time and Expense.
2. No
adapter needed.
3. It screws in place of the oil plug.
4. Buy the hose - allows alternate drain path for those without large catch
pans.
5. It's threaded to screw in correctly.
6. Won't touch anything -clears belly pan.
7. It's a simple easy to use piece, nothing difficult for typical
installations.
8. F106N unit has the nipple fitting
end. (attach hose if desired)
Fumoto Nipple Type Oil Drain Valve 'F-106N'
(14mm-1.5)
More information on Valve
and hose installation at the following;
Link at: http://www.qwikvalve.com/F106N-14mm-1.5-w-nipple.html
Keyless
Go Button (Tech Tip & Operation Info)
Read
the following for Keyless Go Start operations, troubleshooting and programming
tips.
CHALLENGER/KEYLESS GO BUTTON OPERATION AND POSSIBLE VEHICLE BATTERY
DISCHARGE!
DISCUSSION:
If equipped, the Challenger is shipped with a Keyless GO Button in the vehicle’s
glove box. This feature, if the customer chooses to have it installed, will
allow the driver to operate the ignition switch without the need to physically
install the FOBIK into the ignition switch. The GO Button is packaged in a
plastic bag with an instruction card. The instruction card explains how to
operate the GO Button once it has been installed to the ignition switch.
The instruction card should be reviewed with the customer
during vehicle delivery and then placed into the owner’s manual for future
reference. With the GO Button installed into the ignition switch and the FOBIK
in the vehicle interior, the GO Button (like the FOBIK it substitutes) will
allow one or more of the following ignition switch modes. With the brake pedal
not depressed (foot off brake pedal) the following ignition switch modes can
occur: accessory, run, and off.
With the brake pedal depressed the following ignition switch modes can occur:
start-run, and off.
NOTE:
INFORM THE CUSTOMER THE
VEHICLE BATTERY IS DISCHARGING WHENEVER THE KEYLESS GO BUTTON FEATURE IS IN
EITHER THE “ACCESSORY” OR THE “RUN” MODE. THE “ACCESSORY” OR “RUN” MODE WILL
REMAIN ACTIVE UNTIL THE “OFF” MODE IS SELECTED OR UNTIL THE VEHICLE ENGINE IS
STARTED.
IF THE DEALER OR VEHICLE
OWNER FAILS TO ACTIVATE THE “OFF” MODE, AND EXITS/LEAVES THE VEHICLE WITH THE
FOBIK, THEN THE “ACCESSORY” OR “RUN” MODE WILL STILL BE ACTIVE AND MAY
COMPLETELY DISCHARGE THE VEHICLE BATTERY.
TO INSTALL THE KEYLESS GO BUTTON FOLLOW THESE STEPS:
1. Remove the GO Button package from the vehicle
glove box.
2. Position the lettering on the GO Button so that
it is horizontal and readable.
The GO Button has the words “ENGINE
START / STOP” on the face of the button.
3. Gently insert the GO Button into the ignition
switch receptacle by pressing on the center of the button.
4. If the button slips in easily, then it has been
installed correctly.
5. Press firmly on the center of the GO Button to
seat the button into the ignition switch receptacle.
The Keyless GO Button can be removed
at any time. Remove the GO Button if the use of the FOBIK is desired to operate
the ignition switch (instead of the GO
Button).
TO REMOVE THE KEYLESS GO BUTTON FOLLOW THESE STEPS
1. The GO Button may be removed using the valet key
from the FOBIK as a thin tool.
2. Insert the metal part of the valet key under the
chrome bezel at the 6 o’clock position.
3. Gently pry the GO Button from the ignition
switch.
THE KEYLESS GO BUTTON (ENGINE START / STOP)
FUNCTIONS
With the driver’s foot OFF of the brake pedal, transmission selector in the PARK
position and the FOBIK must be in the passenger compartment of the vehicle:
1. Press the ENGINE START/STOP button once to
activate the ACCESSORY mode which will allow operation of the radio, wipers,
and windows.
2. Press the ENGINE START/STOP button a second time
to activate the RUN mode which will allow the operation of the heating/air
conditioning (HVAC) controls, and Instrument Cluster.
3. Press the ENGINE START/STOP button a third time
to activate the OFF mode
With the driver’s foot ON the brake pedal
(brake pedal depressed), transmission selector in the PARK (or NEUTRAL)
position, and the FOBIK must be in the passenger compartment of the vehicle:
1. Press the ENGINE START/STOP button once to
activate the START-RUN mode. The engine will start.
2. Press the ENGINE START/STOP button a second time
to activate the OFF mode. The engine will stop.
NORMAL STARTING:
To start the engine, the transmission must be in PARK or NEUTRAL, and the FOBIK
must be in the passenger compartment of the vehicle. Press and hold the brake
pedal while pressing the ENGINE START/STOP button once. The system (TIP START
feature) takes over and attempts to start the vehicle engine.
If the vehicle engine fails to start, the starter
will disengage automatically after ten (10) seconds.
If you wish to stop the cranking of the engine prior to the engine starting
(within ten seconds) then press the ENGINE START/STOP button again.
Programming and troubleshooting new FOBIK's, and WIN and
PEM modules
Troubleshooting: One FOBIK works with the start button but my
other FOBIK says "Key not detected" and will not start the
vehicle. It will however start the
vehicle with the FOBIK used as a key directly into the WIN module.
If
it starts with both FOBIK's in the slot (WIN) and is used as a standard key,
but only starts with one using the push button and "errors out" on
the other I will would safely bet that one FOBIK is has a problem. Now, if this is a NEW FOBIK that they (dealer
tech) just "programmed" I would bet that they did not "associate"
the new/non working FOBIK with the PEM
(Personal Entry Module).
If
it "push button start" works with one FOBIK, then the PEM is usually good.
If
you have both FOBIKS in the vehicle during testing, this can be confusing as to
which one is bad or has a problem. Use
aluminum foil to completely wrap a FOBIK (transponder) to shield it from the
low frequency signal detection of the PEM module. This method can be used to independently test
each FOBIK for proper operation.
Dealer
tech programming:
There
is one extra step on the Keyless Entry (push button start) cars that a lot of
techs do not realize HAS got to be done when replacing/programming FOBIK's.
After
it is programmed to the WIN module, that
same FOBIK ALSO has to be "associated" to the PEM as a separate step
by going into the PEM with the Scantool. Forgetting this will give "not
found" errors when using the push button and this FOBIK as it has not be
"mated" to the PEM module.
NOTE: The Keyless Go
(push button start) system actually can utilize 3 different antenna systems on two different control modules (WIN
and PEM) to "validate" a "start command" message to be sent
via CANBUS to the PCM to initiate an
engine "start" sequence.
For a comprehensive listing of Dodge Challenger KeyLess Go Entry System "tips and tricks" click here.
How
to Adjust When Auto HID Headlights turn on
Was
fiddling around with my HID headlight adjustments because they were coming on
too late (too dark) for my preference.
This is for those who have the EVIC (Electronic Vehicle Information Center) option.
- Key ON. (Doesn't matter if the engine is running or
not).
-
Hold the compass and music note key on steering wheel together for about 5-6 seconds
-
Move the up arrow (or down arrow if you prefer) on the left hand side of your
steering wheel.
For this exercise, we'll be toggling
the "up" arrow
- First stop is a Digital tach, if you're running
your engine, you can see how steady it idles. Also some other digital readings.
- Next toggle is temp and a cool Chinese character believe it or not. My son,
who takes Mandarin lessons, informs me
it is the symbol for "peace".
It might mean "piece", but
we're not sure.
- Next toggle is compass digital readings
- Next toggle is MinL and MinR
stuff. This is sensor information on
left/right fuel tank levels.
The Lt
and Rt unit number is in PINTS (8 pts = 1 gal.). The
total fuel capacity is 19 gals.
- next toggle is now your headlight
sensor adjustment page.
Note the following;
On
the left hand side of your steering wheel, you can adjust the HID sensitivity
(when it comes on automatically) in units of 2.
You adjust with the arrow that points to the right on the left side of your
steering wheel. I believe this is a lumens unit but don't hold me to that.
The
factory setting in the SRT's is 180.
You can only scroll upward in units of 2 until you get to 220, then the next
number is 150.
From 150, keep scrolling the numbers
higher until you hit 170. That
setting works really well- the HID's will come on sooner, but not too soon.
They'll turn on deep inside a car wash, but turn off automatically (of course)
at the exit.
Note:
Thanks
to internetguy for this personal information from his
parameter setup.
Technical
information on EVIC screen 6 to follow;
AutoHLSens - Number
Current value of the light sensor for the automatic
headlight system (instantaneous).
Higher Number = Darker
TC - 2 Numbers
First number is a dampening (averaging) value, the higher
the number, the more dampening occurs.
i.e. Higher the dampening value, the longer it will take for the lights to come
on when it gets dark and longer it
will take for the lights to go off when it gets bright. So if you go through a lot of short tunnels and don't want
the lights to keep going on and off, increase this value.
Second number is the damped sensor value.
Thld - A number and up to 2 alphabets
Current threshold value. If damped sensor value exceeds this value, lights will come on.
If damped sensor value goes below this value, lights will go
off.
A = Automatic Headlights On
H = SmartBeam Automatic High Beam System On
HBduty - Numerical Percentage
Shows the current intensity level of the SmartBeam system, 0% = off, 100% = full high beams.
Available Actions:
♪ Increases dampening value (max out then loop back to
lowest value)
▸
Increases threshold value (max out then loop back to lowest value)
Changing brake pads
on Dodge Challenger
Seems
to be time for a lot of R/T and SRT owners to replace their brake pads so
here's a little help to make it easy and pretty
much straight forward. Here is a short
video and is very easy to watch and understand the brake disassembly and
assembly.
Dodge Challenger
R/T
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AFX41g47mY
Although
these Brembo brakes are not on a Dodge Challenger
they come off the exact same way. Also note that removing the
calipers will depend on the condition of the rotors.
Brembo Brakes - Dodge SRT8 (Charger)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uGpAwTYaTWY
USB
power adapter/charger via Cigarette lighter plug
Description:
More
at link: http://elagostore.com/elago-Nano-USB-Car-Charger-for/M/B002WH3QLE.htm
For special Billet
covers to replace the generic +12V cover, go here: http://www.custombilletstore.com/product_p/1029.htm
Tip:146
Rear End Service/Lubrication RT/SRT
All information on Rear End
Service and Lubrication tips for the 215MM RII and G648 Rear Axle is at
this LINK
HERE.
Automatic
Transmission (NAG1) Cooling bypass valve
When the transmission fluid is cold (less then operating
temperature), the fluid is routed through the cooler bypass valve without
flowing through the transmission cooler. When the transmission fluid reaches
operating temperatures 71°C (160°F) and
above, the thermostat closes off the bypass and allowing fluid to flow through
the transmission cooler. The thermal bypass valve is serviced as an assembly.
The transmission thermal bypass valve is mounted on LH side
of the engine at the A/C compressor.
Tip:148
Occupant
Restraint Controller (ORC)
The Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) (2),
sometimes referred to as the Airbag Control Module (ACM), is secured with three
screws to a stamped steel mounting bracket welded onto the top of the floor
panel transmission tunnel underneath the instrument panel center stack, beneath
the center floor console in the passenger compartment of the vehicle.
Concealed within a hollow in the center of the die cast
aluminum ORC housing is the electronic circuitry of the ORC which includes a microprocessor, an electronic impact sensor, an electronic safing sensor, and an energy storage capacitor. A stamped metal cover plate is secured to
the bottom of the ORC housing with four screws to enclose and protect the
internal electronic circuitry and components.
The ORC housing has integral mounting flanges in three
locations. Two molded plastic electrical connectors (1 and 2, referred to as C1
and C2 in the diagnostic and wiring information) exit the rearward facing side
of the ORC housing. These terminal pins connect the ORC to the vehicle
electrical system through two connectors.
The impact sensor and safing
sensor internal to the ORC are calibrated for the specific vehicle, and are
only serviced as a unit with the ORC. The ORC cannot be repaired or adjusted
and, if damaged or faulty, it must be replaced.
The microprocessor in the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC)
contains the supplemental restraint system logic circuits and controls all of
the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) components. The ORC uses On-Board
Diagnostics (OBD) and communicates with other electronic modules in the vehicle
as well as with the diagnostic scan tool using the Controller Area Network
(CAN) data bus. This method of communication is used for control of the airbag
indicator in the ElectroMechanical Instrument Cluster
(EMIC) and for SRS diagnosis and testing through the 16-way data link connector
located on the driver side lower edge of the instrument panel.
The ORC microprocessor continuously monitors all of the SRS
electrical circuits to determine the system readiness. If the ORC detects a
monitored system fault, it sets an active and stored Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) and sends electronic messages to the EMIC over the CAN data bus to
illuminate the airbag indicator. An active fault only remains for the duration
of the fault, or in some cases for the duration of the current ignition switch
cycle, while a stored fault causes a DTC to be stored in memory by the ORC. For
some DTCs, if a fault does not recur for a number of ignition cycles, the ORC
automatically erases the stored DTC. For other internal faults, the stored DTC
is latched forever.
The ORC receives battery current through two circuits: a
fused ignition switch output (run) circuit and a fused ignition switch output
(run-start) circuit. The ORC receives ground through a ground circuit of the
instrument panel wire harness. These connections allow the ORC to be
operational whenever the ignition switch is in the START or ON positions.
The ORC also contains an energy-storage capacitor. When the
ignition switch is in the START or ON positions, this capacitor is continually
being charged with enough electrical energy to deploy the front supplemental
restraint components for up to one second following a battery disconnect or
failure. The purpose of the capacitor is to provide backup SRS protection in
case there is a loss of battery current supply to the ORC during an impact.
Two sensors are contained within the ORC, an electronic
impact sensor and a safing sensor. The ORC also
monitors inputs from two remote front impact sensors located on the back of the
right and left vertical members of the radiator support near the front of the
vehicle. The electronic impact sensors are accelerometers that sense the rate
of vehicle deceleration, which provides verification of the direction and
severity of an impact. On vehicles equipped with curtain airbags, the ORC also
monitors inputs from four additional remote impact sensors to control
deployment of the curtain airbags. Two are located on the left and right
between the B and C-pillars, and two are located on the left and right doors,
underneath the door interior trim panels.
The safing sensor is an electronic
accelerometer sensor within the ORC that provides an additional logic input to
the ORC microprocessor. The safing sensor verifies
the need for a supplemental restraint deployment by detecting impact energy of
a lesser magnitude than that of the primary electronic impact sensors, and must
exceed a safing threshold in order for the airbags to
deploy. Vehicles equipped with curtain airbags, feature a second safing sensor within the ORC to provide confirmation to the
ORC microprocessor of side impact forces. This second safing
sensor is a bi-directional unit that detects impact forces from either side of
the vehicle.
Pre-programmed decision algorithms in the ORC microprocessor
determine when the deceleration rate as signaled by the impact sensors and the safing sensors indicate an impact that is severe enough to
require SRS protection and, based upon the severity of the monitored impact,
determines the level of front airbag deployment force required for each front
seating position. When the programmed conditions are met, the ORC sends the
proper electrical signals to deploy the dual multistage front airbags at the
programmed force levels, the front seat belt tensioners
and, if either curtain airbag. For vehicles equipped with the Occupant
Classification System (OCS), the passenger airbag and seat belt tensioner will be deployed by the ORC only if enabled by
the Occupant Classification Module (OCM) messages (passenger airbag disabled
indicator off at the time of the impact.
The most reliable, efficient, and accurate ways to diagnose
the ORC, the CAN data bus, and the electronic message inputs to and outputs
from the ORC requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool and the appropriate
diagnostic information
International
Control and Display Symbols (Chrysler/Dodge)
Chrysler LLC uses international symbols
to identify various systems on the vehicle.
|
The graphic symbols illustrated
are used to identify various instrument controls. The symbols correspond to the
controls and displays that are located on the instrument panel.
SYMBOL
|
DESCRIPTION
|
SYMBOL
|
DESCRIPTION
|
1 |
High
Beam |
13 |
Rear
Window Washer |
2 |
Fog
Lamps |
14 |
Fuel |
3 |
Headlamp,
Parking Lamps, Panel Lamps |
15 |
Engine
Coolant Temperature |
4 |
Turn
Warning |
16 |
Battery
Charging Condition |
5 |
Hazard
Warning |
17 |
Engine
Oil |
6 |
Windshield
Washer |
18 |
Seat
Belt |
7 |
Windshield
Wiper |
19 |
Brake
Failure |
8 |
Windshield
Wiper and Washer |
20 |
Parking
Brake |
9 |
Wind
screen Demisting and Defrosting |
21 |
Front
Hood |
10 |
Ventilating
Fan |
22 |
Rear
hood (Decklid) |
11 |
Rear
Window Defogger |
23 |
Horn |
12 |
Rear
Window Wiper |
24 |
Lighter |
The graphic symbols illustrated are used to identify engine
compartment lubricant and fluid inspection and fill locations.
The symbols correspond to the caps located within the engine compartment.
Tip:150
Door
Panel Removal procedure
Disconnect and isolate the battery
negative cable.(Refer
to 08 - Electrical/8F - Engine Systems/Battery System - Standard Procedure) . |
2. |
Unsnap and fold back the screw cap
behind the interior handle and remove the screw (1). |
3. |
Unsnap and fold back the screw cap below
the trim panel (2) pull handle to access and remove the screw (3). |
4. |
Remove the screws (4) that secure the
trim panel to the inside of the door. |
5. |
Remove the push pins (1) that secure
the trim panel (2) to the door. |
6. |
Carefully pull the bottom of the trim
panel out and pull up on the panel to remove the door lock. |
7. |
Disconnect all cables and connectors. |
8. |
Remove the trim panel from the
vehicle. |
To re-install, do the reverse procedure.
Autostick mode
turns off MDS.
Quote:
Yeah, this has nothing to do with low speeds on mine. I showed
one of the dealer techs and two others I test drove did it as well. If I am
cruising along and give it some fuel you can actually feel it as though I am
on and off the pedal. The tach shows the same as
the rpm's fluctuate. Probably MDS. I am going to turn it off this weekend and
try it. |
What you are feeling is the slight change when MDS kicks out as
you increase load on the engine. You can feel this as well when you have cruise
control engaged and the vehicle starts a gradual climb up a hill. At which time
the engine torque load increases and then you will feel MDS kick off. If you
have a free flowing aftermarket exhaust system, you can also clearly hear the
change in exhaust note at this time.
Turn
MDS OFF during highway driving:
IF this is annoying, when you accelerate up to highway speed and level off, you
can watch the Instrument cluster lower right gauge where the indicator is for [D]
and bump the shifter to the right for 1-2 seconds and you should see [5] or bump left (-) and see it change
to [5] or [4] if your engine RPM
is in the right range, as the transmission is anticipating and strong throttle
request here as you may be shifting into a "passing gear" for
acceleration purposes.
You will be in Autostick operations and MDS will no longer be enabled. You can easily change back to [D]rive
operation(s) by the procedure below.
Operation
Switching from Autostick to DRIVE can be done at any
vehicle speed. To shift from DRIVE mode
to Autostick mode, move the shift lever to the left
(-) once. The current gear will be maintained as the top gear. To disable Autostick, simply press and hold the shift lever to the
right (+) until [D] is displayed (about 2 sec.) in the instrument
cluster odometer.
Having a Diablo Predator tuning tool allows the user to edit the PCM's
enable/disable parameter to set this option to OFF all the time if desired.
Dual Engine Bay
Lighting
using
Cadillac
engine bay light fixtures with integrated on/off mercury switch
Link to parts listing and mod
description
Dodge
Challenger TSB, RRT and Safety Recall List
For those viewing this, if you are not familiar with the terms TSB
(Technical Service Bulletin), RRT (Rapid Response Transmittal), or RCL (Safety
Recall Notice), I would recommend that you refer to Tip:71 for a detailed explanation of
these terms.
Click the following link below to view the current TSB, RRT, Customer
Satisfaction and Safety Recall notices below;
Challenger
TSB, RRT and Safety Recalls
For Dodge Challenger owners who want to have access to personal info
about your specific vehicle by VIN number,
you can visit the Dodge Owners Page link below and sign up for service record
info and specific notices about your Challenger. Bookmark it for future reference!
Installing
Wing Spoiler on Dodge Challenger
There may be a time when you are contemplating replacing the low
profile style spoiler on your Challenger with an older style (retro) wing type.
Below are the installation instructions on doing just that. Also of use, is the instructions on how to
remove the center taillight section from the deck lid if you ever need to do
so. Here is the link to the Adobe PDF
file for this;
http://www.moparsupercenter.com/pdfs/82211606.pdf
Dyno and other speed/gear related software
TT Dyno
Dyno software that
can turn data logs from automotive tuning tools into real Dyno graphs! So for those
with Diablo Predator or Trinity engine tuning tools, this is a good buy for
turning those data logs into useful graphs.
If you have a handheld tuning tool or ECM/PCM data logger, you need this software to be
able to truly evaluate your mods!
Also,
for those looking for a good application for gear ratio calculations, look
here.
SE,
R/T, SRT8 gear ratio calculation information
Here
is a neat app called GearCalc
which lets you punch in gear ratios, the final gear ratio, rpm limit, and tire size and it will spit out all
kinds of information.
You will need sources of information to do your own gear/engine RPM
calculations so here is the list of links below;
Source
of gear information:
Individual Gear Ratios: ALLPAR
(Allpar.com)
Final Gear Ratio: DODGE
(Dodge.com's) Build-a-car
(Note: Allpar.com says a 3.91 final gear ratio for the 6-speed, Dodge.com's build-a-car says 3.92 so use 3.92 ratio for the
6-speed)
RPM Limit
(redline):
ALLPAR
(Allpar.com)
Tire Sizes: DODGE
(Dodge.com build-a-car)
Battery Maintenance
and short/Long term vehicle storage
There will come a time that you will need to store or won't be able to drive your Challenger for some extended period of time. Since your Challenger has a continuous electrical demand (load) on your vehicle's battery, it will run it down in approximately 4-6 weeks. The length of time will vary dependent on ambient temperature and the overall condition of the battery. Having said all this, it will be necessary to keep the battery charged up to peak performance for it to work properly and so that you will get the full rated life of the battery.
Since I have several vehicles that I do not drive on a regular basis, I found that using a device called a battery tender does the job nicely. I have been using a small device called a "Battery Tender Jr.", as it is small and has a large enough power rating to keep the battery charged up to peak performance. I use the cigarette lighter style power plug and route the wire out of the driver door (rear bottom) as the door seal is large enough to not pinch the wire when closing it.
In the case of the new model Challenger, you will need to use the power port in the center console to plug the tender into. The center power port is connected directly to the battery and not "switched" like the one on the lower dash console below the radio. You do not want to use that one.
What is also good about this device is that it will "monitor" the battery condition and go into a charge, float or absorption mode and keep the battery happy during its idle time. The unit has a multicolor LED to indicate its status and is easy to see.
There are several vendors for the Battery Tender Jr. units and accessories. Amazon.com and eBay are two popular ones.
Here are the
electrical spec's for this unit above.
You want to be sure to
also order or purchase this accessory below
Cigarette Lighter or
power port adapter.
So
in short, when I am ready to drive an idle vehicle, I simply open the door,
unplug the charge plug and hang it up on a hook nearby and get in and drive the
vehicle away with a fully charged and happy battery. Upon return from a drive, I plug the adapter
plug into the cigarette lighter port and close the door and the unit monitors
the battery and does what it needs to keep the battery happy.
Removal
of CHMSL (center high mounted stop Light) or 3rd brake light.
Q: How do you
remove the high mount brake light in the rear window?
I
have a decal of the Challenger wording that I'd like to put on the rear
window. In pulled the headliner down and
looking up there I couldn't really see any bolts (maybe a grounding bolt
though). I went to my dealer but got the
run around with them quoting something about "not being able to tell me
due to safety concerns" (and an offer to install the decal for $50!!). I
just don't want to pull it down and break it!
A:
It's fairly easy to remove. It is held in place via snap in clips.
The CHMSL or CENTER HIGH MOUNTED
STOP LAMP is held in place with push in clips mounted to the underside of the
light housing.
First
you need to pull down on the black cover that's on the headliner, as it has its
own push in clips mounted on the underside. Simply pull down and the clips will
pop out. Then all you need to do is grab
the housing that extends over the window and pull down. Now the clips will pop
out and the light housing will come down. There are no special tools needed or
required for this.
FilterMag, Trans Pan Mag and Magnetic Oil Plug systems
In
looking at ways to significantly enhance the oil system filtering capabilities,
I elected to add new extremely high power Neodymium type magnets to my oil
plug, oil filter and transmission pan components. This is not exactly "new"
technology and magnetic recovery systems are used in aircraft engines and those
engines that require a high level of filtration in order to keep metallic
debris out of oil recirculation or hydraulic fluid systems.
So,
why not add this technology to your new vehicle! Take for example the FilterMag
unit with 300 lbs of magnetic force
on the engine oil passing through the oil filter!
Q: How is this good for my Challenger engine
and transmission?
A: Well it is most
important in the early mileage of your vehicle as this is when the engine and
transmission are wearing in and most of the metallic shed particles are going
to be produced and be suspended in the oil or transmission fluids. Trapping these early on removes unwanted
metallic particles from the circulating oil or hydraulic fluids that can lead
to premature engine wear and other possible problems. Placing these components on high mileage
vehicles is obviously much less effective.
But, removing metallic contaminants in lubricating oil or hydraulic
fluids is always a good idea!
So
in short, I have installed a Gold Plug
magnetic oil plug, FilterMag SS-375 Filter Magnet and a TM180 transmission pan magnet on my new
vehicle. These units in conjunction with
the AmSOIL filter technology will produce an
extremely high efficiency oil filtration system. As metallic particles are captured in the oil
filter, and when removed and thrown away, any "metallic contaminants"
are removed as well.
Here
below are the links and technical information on the Neodymium magnet
technology components that I used on my new Challenger.
Magnetic oil plug
& FilterMag for complete metal debris protection
3.6L = AP-08 $14.99
5.7L = AP-08 $14.99
6.1L = AP-08 $14.99
6.4L = AP-08 $14.99
http://www.magneticdrainplug.com/Automotive_Drain_Plugs/AP02.html
FilterMag.com FilterMag oil
filter units
SS375 Filter size range:
3.50"-3.80" 300 LBS OF
MAGNETIC PULL FORCE
Note: Both 5.7L and
6.1L use same FilterMag units
AUTO Transmission Pan
Magnet!
TM
Series Pan Magnets
Suitable for all vehicles with a steel oil pan TM360 and TM180
The FilterMAG™ Transmission Magnet
(TM360 & TM180) are designed to magnetically attract and hold the millions
of steel particles that are circulating in your transmission oil. Unless
stopped these particles will damage the delicate parts in your transmission.
Snap either the large TM360 or the smaller TM180 on to the bottom of your steel
transmission pan. Either one will immediately begin cleaning your transmission
oil without restricting oil flow. So very simple!, So Effective!!
Specifications
TM360
Filter size range: 3.1875” x 2.9375”
Magnetic Pull Force – 50 lbs.
TM180
Magnetic Pull Force – 25 lbs.
EFI: Mass Flow vs.
Speed Density (Fuel/Air Management)
The following
write-up will help understand what "Speed
Density" means when referring to Dodge Challenger PCM fuel table
calibrations.
Once
upon a time an engine needed three things to run: fuel, air, and fire. That's
what carb's, coils, and distributors are for. Modern
EFI engines still need these three elements, but they use different hardware to
provide them, and a computer to run the whole process.
Today's
electronic engine management systems can process millions of instructions per
second to continuously adjust spark and fuel for optimum performance. The
computer regulates the electronic fuel-injector pulse width (the time that the
fuel injector is open) and ignition lead with input from various sensors. One
of the key things the computer needs to know is how much air the engine
consumes under a given set of conditions. Three different measurement
strategies have evolved to supply the computer with this basic information; in
order of sophistication they are:
N Alpha, Speed Density, and Mass AIR (Flow)
metering.
Speed Density
Speed Density
systems accept input from sensors that measure engine speed (in rpm) and load
(manifold vacuum in kPa), then the computer
calculates airflow requirements by referring to a much larger (in comparison to
an N Alpha system) preprogrammed lookup table, a map of thousands of values
that equates to the engine's volumetric efficiency (VE) under varying
conditions of throttle position and engine speed. Engine rpm is provided via a tach signal, while vacuum is transmitted via an intake
manifold-mounted Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor. Since air density changes
with air temperature, an intake manifold-mounted sensor is also used.
Production-based
Speed Density computers also utilize an oxygen (O2) sensor mounted in the
exhaust tract. The computer looks at the air/fuel ratio from the O2 sensor and
corrects the fuel delivery for any errors. This helps compensate for wear and
tear and production variables. Other sensors on a typical Speed Density system
usually include an idle-air control motor to help regulate idle speed, a
throttle-position sensor that transmits the percentage of throttle opening, a
coolant-temperature sensor, and a knock sensor as a final fail-safe that hears
detonation so the computer can retard timing as needed.
GM's Tuned
Port Injection (TPI) set-ups used Speed Density metering from 90-92, as did
91-93 LT1 engines. All 86-87 and 88 non-California Ford 5.0L-HO engines used
Speed Density metering.
Most MOPAR fuel-injection systems have used
Speed Density too.
Because a
Speed Density system still has no sensors that directly measure engine airflow,
all the fuel mapping points must be
preprogrammed, so any significant change to the engine that alters its VE
requires reprogramming the ECM/PCM (computer).
Mass AIR Flow
By contrast, Mass
Air Flow (MAF) systems use a sensor mounted in front of the throttle body that
directly measures the amount of air inducted into the engine. The most common
type of mass-flow sensor is the hot wire design: Air flows past a heated wire
that's part of a circuit that measures electrical current. Current flowing
through the wire heats it to a temperature that is always held above the inlet
air temperature by a fixed amount. Air flowing across the wire draws away some
of the heat, so an increase in current flow is required to maintain its fixed
temperature. The amount of current needed to heat the wire is proportional to
the mass of air flowing across the wire. The mass-air meter also includes a
temperature sensor that provides a correction for intake air temperature so the
output signal is not affected by it.
The MAF
sensor's circuitry converts the current reading into a voltage signal for the
computer, which in turn equates the voltage value to mass flow. Typical MAF
systems also use additional sensors similar to those found in Speed Density
systems. Once the electronic control module (ECM) knows the amount of air
entering the engine, it looks at these other sensors to determine the engine's
current state of operation (idle, acceleration, cruise, deceleration, operating
temperature, and so on), then refers to an electronic map to find the
appropriate air/fuel ratio and select the fuel-injector pulse width required to
match the input signals.
GM used
MAF sensors on the turbo Buick V-6 Grand National, 85-89 TPI, 94-98 LT1, 96
LT4, and all LS1 engines. Ford has used MAF metering on 88 California 5.0L
engines and all 89-and-later V-8 engines.
MAF
systems are much more flexible in their ability to compensate for engine
changes since they actually measure airflow instead of computing it based on
preprogrammed assumptions. They are self-compensating for most reasonable
upgrades, as well as extremely accurate under low-speed, part-throttle
operation. On the other hand, the MAF meter, mounted as it is ahead of the throttle-body,
can become an airflow restriction on high-horsepower engines. On non-stock
engine retrofits or EFI conversions on engines never produced with fuel
injection, it may be hard to package an MAF meter within the confines of the
engine bay and available intake manifolding.
Which Is Best?
In a perfect
world, virtually all street-performance engines would use Mass Air, due to its
superior accuracy and greater tolerance for engine changes. In the past there
was a problem on high-horsepower engines because larger-capacity MAF sensors
were scarce and prohibitively expensive. Nowadays, oversize MAF sensors are
available from Pro-M, Granatelli Racing, and other
sources that are compatible with Ford engines and computers. Custom MAF
calibration keyed to the specific vehicle, engine, and injector size is also
available. With a correctly calibrated oversize meter, re-flashing the Ford
computer usually isn't required. (However, before you run out for a larger Ford
MAF meter, Fast Track Performance points out that the first limiting factors
are the puny Ford 19 lb/hr injectors, which can only support about 320 hp.)
Some
oversize MAF meters have also become available for the second-generation
(94-and-later) GM MAF systems, but the selection isn't as broad as for the Ford
guys. The GM MAF engine management computer isn't as adaptable as Ford's.
Although it will accept larger MAFs, you can't go up and down more than one
injector size with re-flashing the computer.
Bigger MAF
meters are not readily available for old GM TPI systems, but Granatelli says it is possible to adapt Ford meters to them
via a conversion wiring harness. Custom calibration is required, so Granatelli prefers to do the changeover in-house.
For
radical engines or engines never produced with fuel injection, an aftermarket
user-programmable computer system is usually preferred. Unfortunately, the
more-or-less affordable aftermarket system's including ACCEL/ DFI, Speed-Pro,
and Holley are Speed Density based and don't support Mass Air metering. Those
systems that do including Electromotive,
Motec, and Pectel units are
more costly, sometimes considerably so.
However, Westech Performance reports that it
is possible to use Pro-M's adjustable Optimizer MAF meter and a stock Ford
Mustang computer with Ford's EPEC piggyback programmable unit to run Mass Air
on any engine.
If it is
not practical to use MAF on your engine due to packaging or hardware
constraints, the programmable Speed Density systems are the next best choice
because production-based Speed Density systems won't tolerate major engine
changes without computer reprogramming, which usually requires the services of
an outside specialist; if the re-programmer isn't specifically familiar with
your combo, the end results may be less than satisfactory.
On radical
engines (those with cam duration over 240 degrees at 0.050 or less than 10
inches of idle vacuum), even user-programmable Speed Density systems have
difficulty due to an erratic or insufficient manifold vacuum signal. If the
application is for a race car operated primarily under full throttle, N Alpha
is the solution. If you intend to drive on the street, a system that blends N
Alpha with Speed Density varying which is in control per specific operating
point and conditions may be the answer. The higher-end aftermarket systems,
including Electromotive's, support this option.
As
electronic engine-management system usage becomes more widespread in the car
crafting community, prices and ease of use should become more user-friendly.
Already, the latest Gen VII ACCEL/DFI system has the ability to construct its
own baseline fuel curve, and the new user programming interface is a
full-fledged, Windows-compatible program.
Tip:160
Rams Head front hood badge removal and replacement
The Ram's Head nose
badge that Dodge installs on the Challenger from the factory just does not fit the vehicle. I've done my best
to eliminate all those Ram Heads from my Challenger, replacing them with
something more suited. The stock 18 in wheels' Ram's Heads were replaced by me
when I bought "R/T" engraved wheel covers to replace the stock rams
head logo's. Now I've replaced the nose badge with a very nice anodized
aluminum piece from Billet Technology.
These folks have a
great variety of different badges and can even do a custom unit for you.
For this
modification you'll need:
(1.) Billet
Technology Nose Badge
(2.) Plastic Dash Pry Tools
(3.) Painter's Tape
(4.) Rubbing Alcohol
(5.) Paper Towel
To Start:
Use Painters tape
and place a tape barrier about 4 inches wide a full 360 deg. around the emblem
to protect the paint from any tool slips. Bring the tape right up to the edge
of the emblem.
The stock Ram's
Head badge is actually (2) pieces. The
Ram's Head itself is snapped into the back crest base or frame. Using the plastic pry tool, There are two
plastic tabs at the top behind the Ram's "horns", so using the
pry tool, pry up on the edges behind the horns and you will see it start to
come up. Pushing the clips in will
release the Ram's Head section. Now you
will see the bottom emblem frame. There
are two more tabs at the lower front edges and you will need to pry up on these
lower from edges and you will see the tab attachments. Pushing in on the tabs or forcefully prying
up will release them.
Then clean the area
with rubbing alcohol to get a good clean surface for the new emblem to
attach. Note the very strong 3M sticky
tape that is used, so position the emblem correctly above the area and then
slowly press the new emblem into place.
The install is a
piece of cake and the new nose badge attaches with a very strong double sided
tape.
Here is a link below to a quick video showing how it's
done.
Tip:161
Moldy looking Dash in
cold weather?!
What? Your new dash getting "moldy"
looking?
Q: Not sure if you've come
across this. I'm storing my Challenger for the winter and I've just noticed a
white film forming on the complete dash pad.
I have seen it on others also. I read
that it is from chemical release action. What's the recommended cleaning
procedure, just damp cloth?
Thanks again for any help. -Jim-
A: Yes, what you are seeing
has been observed on a large number of new Challengers. This can be unsettling to say the least if
your vehicle has been stored for awhile and it has been getting into the low
temperatures (<38 deg.F) and you throw open your
door and see a horrible sight on your dash area like what is shown in the
pictures above. This apparently is a
chemical breakdown and release of a release agent applied to the synthetic
rubber type material during injection mold processing at manufacture and this
will need to be cleaned off.
Yes, you are correct in that cold weather really brings out
(accelerates release) the "moldy" looking mess on the composite
rubber type dash and it can be cleaned up with lukewarm "mild soapy
water" and dry it off well.
You can also use Meguiars All Purpose Cleaner and
then Meguiars Interior Detailer to clean and
protect and put a light coat of this on the dash, and it should be fine.
Mequiars Interior Detailer is available on Amazon.com: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Interior-Detailer-Cleaner-16-oz/dp/B000AMLWH8
For those who want to use
ONLY Mopar products for this;
Use Mopar Total Clean part #
04897840ab to clean the dash & then part # 05175051aa to seal it.
Note:
Warning: Do NOT
use anything whatsoever like popular Armor All, as you will only
compound the original problem.
Tip:162
FOBIK and PEM Radio Frequencies
The main role of the Passive Entry
Module (PEM) system as it relates to the passive entry (PE) Keyless Go (KG)
feature is to own the PE portion of the feature when equipped.
In vehicles that don't have PE, the PEM is still required for the KG (Keyless
Go) system. When the KG button is pushed, the Wireless Ignition Node (WIN)
queries the PEM for FOBIK authentication. When a stored FOBIK(s) is found
inside the vehicle, the PEM will send a valid response back to the WIN.
The PEM is
located behind the glove box
Keyless
Go
When the Keyless Go (KG) button is
pressed on the Wireless Ignition Node (WIN), and the WIN requires
authentication, the WIN sends a CAN message carrying a 64 bit challenge value
from the WIN to the Passive Entry Module (PEM).
The PEM determines the location of authenticated FOBIK(s)
presently available by transmitting on 20 KHz LF and listening on 433 MHZ UHF
for the FOBIK(s). The PEM sends the 64 bit challenge value sent on CAN BUS from
the WIN on LF to an authenticated FOBIK located inside the vehicle.
The FOBIK manipulates the value and returns a 64 bit
response to the PEM on 433 MHz UHF. The PEM uses this value to return a result
to the WIN on CAN BUS. If a valid 64 bit response value is returned, the PEM
passes the response value to the WIN so that it can complete the secure
handshake. If no FOBIK response, invalid FOBIK response or no FOBIK is
available inside the vehicle, the PEM responds with a message with a value that
is not a valid response value, so that the WIN always gets a response to the challenge
and can act accordingly.
If the WIN determines that the response value is valid, then
the WIN knows there is a valid FOBIK in the interior of the vehicle and
proceeds with the synthesized ignition position logic.
The WIN should always receive a PEM response to the WIN
challenge. If the WIN receives a response that is not successful, the WIN shall
generate a new challenge and start the
process over by sending again. The WIN shall retry the process twice. If after
three attempts at challenging the FOBIK(s) a successful response is not
obtained, the WIN sends the message that commands the EVIC to display the
message "FOB NOT DETECTED"
on the EVIC display.
OPERATION
(START/STOP BUTTON)
Each time the START/STOP button is
pressed, a signal is transmitted from the Wireless Ignition Node (WIN) over the
Controlled Area Network (CAN) data bus to the Passive Entry Module (PEM), where
the signal is then wirelessly transmitted to the FOB with Integrated Key
(FOBIK). The signal is then sent back through the PEM over the CAN data bus and
back to the WIN for authentication and location. After a valid FOBIK is
detected inside the vehicle the ignition state can be changed.
The ignition system for the Keyless Go (KG)feature has three
states, similar to a conventional ignition system. These ignition states are
OFF, ACCESSORY, and ON. Each time the START/STOP button is pressed and released
the ignition state changes to the next ignition state as follows, from OFF to
ACCESSORY, from ACCESSORY to ON, and from ON back to OFF.
To start the engine, the transmission must be in park or
neutral. From any ignition state, press the brake pedal and press and release
the START/STOP button and the engine attempts to start. The starter will
continues to crank until the engine starts. If the engine fails to start, the
starter will disengages automatically in 10 seconds. If you wish to stop the
cranking of the engine before the engine starts, press and release the
START/STOP button again.
To shut off the engine while the transmission is in PARK
press and release the START/STOP button and the engine shuts off. To shut off
the engine while the transmission is out of PARK you must press and hold the
START STOP button. The ignition state will be changes to the ACCESSORY state if
the transmission is not in PARK and to the OFF state if the transmission is in
PARK motion.
The power lock system allows all of the doors and liftgate to be locked or unlocked electrically by operating
a switch on either front door trim panel. The power lock system receives a
non-switched battery current through a fuse in the Junction Block (JB), so that
the power locks remain operational, regardless of the ignition switch position.
The instrument cluster locks the doors automatically when
the vehicle speed exceeds 25.7 Km/h (15 mph), all doors are closed and the
accelerator pedal is pressed. The rolling door lock feature can be disabled
through the EVIC.
This vehicle also offers several customer programmable
features, which allows the selection of several optional electronic features to
suit individual preferences.
The power lock system for this vehicle can also be operated
remotely using the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitters.
The central locking system controls powered operation of the
door, liftgate locks and the illuminated entry
system. Central locking includes the following features:
Automatic locking of the doors and liftgate when the vehicle speed exceeds approximately 25
km/h (15 mph).
Locking prevention with a door lock
switch or the RKE transmitter, if the key is in the ignition switch and the
driver's door is open.
Driver selectable unlocking mode:
Unlocks only the driver's door or all doors and the liftgate,
with one press of the RKE transmitter unlock button.
The driver's door cylinder can also be used to unlock the door. One turn of the
cylinder will unlocks the driver's door, two turns within five seconds unlocks
all doors.
Automatic illumination of the interior
courtesy lamps when the vehicle is unlocked.
Locking all doors and the liftgate by pressing the lock button on the RKE
transmitter, or by pressing a lock switch on one of the front doors.
The lock mechanisms are actuated by a reversible electric
motor mounted within each door. The power lock motors are integral to the door
latch units. The power lock motors cannot be adjusted or repaired. If
inoperative or damaged, the door latch unit must be replaced.
The Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) system locks and unlocks the
doors and liftgate, turns on the interior lamps, and
arms and disarms the Vehicle Theft Security System (if equipped). The RKE
system operates on non-switched battery current through a fuse in the
Integrated Power Module (IPM), so that the system remains operational
regardless of the ignition switch position.
The RKE transmitters are also equipped with a Panic button.
If the Panic button on the RKE transmitter is pressed, the horn will sounds and
the exterior lights flashes on the vehicle for about three minutes or until the
Panic button is pressed a second time. A vehicle speed of approximately 25.7
kilometers-per-hour (15 miles-per-hour) also cancels the panic event.
The RKE system can also perform other functions on this
vehicle. If the vehicle is equipped with the optional Vehicle Theft Security
System (VTSS), the RKE transmitter arms the VTSS when the Lock button is
pressed and disarm the VTSS when the Unlock button is pressed.
The RKE system includes two transmitters when the vehicle is
shipped from the factory, but the system can retain the vehicle access codes of
up to a total of eight transmitters. The transmitter codes are retained in the
RKE module memory, even if the battery disconnects. If an RKE transmitter is
faulty or lost, new transmitter vehicle access codes can be programmed into the
system using a scan tool.
This vehicle also offers several customer programmable
features, which allows the selection of several optional electronic features to
suit individual preferences. Customer programmable feature options affecting
the RKE system include:
* Remote Unlock Sequence - Allows the option of having only the driver side front
door unlock when the RKE transmitter Unlock button is pressed the first time.
The remaining doors unlock when the button is pressed a second time within five
seconds of the first unlock press. Another option is having all doors and liftgate unlock upon the first pressing of the RKE
transmitter Unlock button.
* Sound Horn on Lock - Allows the option of having the horn sound a short chirp
as an audible verification that the RKE system received a valid Lock request
from the RKE transmitter or having no audible verification.
* Flash Lights with Lock and Unlock - Allows the option of having the park lamps flash as an
optical verification that the RKE system received a valid Lock request or
Unlock request from the RKE transmitter or having no optical verification.
* Programming Additional Transmitters - Allows up to a total of eight transmitter vehicle access
codes to be stored in the receiver memory.
Certain functions and features of the RKE system rely upon
resources shared with other electronic modules in the vehicle over the CAN data
bus network.
For diagnosis of these electronic modules or of the data bus network, the use of
a scan tool and the appropriate
diagnostic information are required.
The remote start antenna is located on the passenger side
above and to the left of glove box.
The antenna interfaces with the Wireless Ignition Module (WIN) through a
coaxial electrical cable and electrical connector.
The antenna helps to amplify the signal for the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) key
fob.
Remote Start Operating Conditions
In order to operate remote start, the following conditions
must be met:
* Key fob sequence must be operated within a 100 meter range
of the vehicle.
* The vehicle must be in Park.
* Key is not in the ignition.
* The hazard switch off.
* Vehicle Theft Alarm or Panic is not alarming.
* Doors and hood must be closed.
* The battery voltage is normal (11 to 15 volts).
Remote Start Shut
Down/Deactivate Conditions
Engine will NOT start or will shut
down/deactivate during any of the following conditions:
* Key in Ignition.
* Doors or hood are opened before remote unlock.
* Hazard Switch depressed.
* Panic or theft alarm active.
* Brake applied.
* A prior remote start cranked the engine , but failed to
start the engine.
*
* High (run away) or Low Idle (stall) RPM.
* MIL Active.
* High Engine Coolant Temperature.
* Low Engine Oil Pressure.
1. |
Press remote button on the Key Fob
twice within 5 seconds. |
NOTE: |
Engine will run for 15 minutes after
a remote start is initiated. After 15 minutes, the engine will shut off. |
2. |
Unlock vehicle with Key Fob to enter the
vehicle. |
3. |
Put key in ignition, turn key to run
position to exit remote start and enter a normal start without engine shut
off. |
To identify that Remote Start has been activated
the following will occur:
Horn will sound and lights will flash
to acknowledge a start command was received.
Park Lamps will turn on to indicate
that the engine is running in remote start mode.
To terminate Remote Start, press Remote
Start button on the Key Fob once.
NOTE: |
In order to avoid inadvertent shut
downs, the one-time press to shut down the vehicle |
For
a comprehensive listing of Dodge Challenger KeyLess
Go Entry System "tips and tricks" click
here.
Dodge Challenger OEM touch up paint(s)
You will eventually need to
do some paint touch up at some time or another on your Challenger and you will
need OEM paint to match up the color.
Below is a link with easy
ordering to get a touch up pen/stick or small spray can to do underhood or trunk lid paint repair. If you are good at body work and need to fix
a scratch or small dent, you may only need a small amount of correct body color
and clear coat for this.
http://www.autotrucktoys.com/dodge-challenger/Dodge-Challenger-Touch-Up-Paint-CAT5628.aspx
or
http://www.automotivetouchup.com/choosecolor/choosecolor.aspx?year=2009&make=Dodge&model=Challenger
Emergency or Valet key use and VTSS
The emergency key
allows for entry into the vehicle should the battery in the vehicle or the Key
Fob go dead.
The emergency key is
also for locking the glove box. You can keep the emergency key with you when
valet
parking.
NOTE:
Entering a vehicle
using the emergency key with the theft alarm armed, will result in the alarm
sounding.
Insert the Key Fob
(even if the Key Fob battery is dead) into the ignition switch to disarm theft
alarm.
To remove the
emergency key, slide the mechanical latch at the top of the Key Fob sideways
with your thumb
and then pull the key out with your other hand.
NOTE:
You can insert the
double-sided emergency key into the lock cylinders with either side up.
NOTE:
• The driver’s door
key cylinder and the trunk button on the RKE transmitter cannot arm or disarm
the Vehicle
Security Alarm.
• The Vehicle
Security Alarm remains armed during trunk entry. Pressing the TRUNK button will
not disarm the
Vehicle Security
Alarm. If someone enters the vehicle through the trunk, and opens any door, the
alarm will sound.
• When the Vehicle
Security Alarm is armed, the interior power door lock switches will not unlock
the doors.
For
a comprehensive listing of Dodge Challenger KeyLess
Go Entry System "tips and tricks" click
here.
PDC - Ignition Off Draw Fuse and usage
Short Term battery
load reduction.
Dodge
has a feature to all the dealer (and owners) to greatly reduce the
"ignition off power draw" in the Challenger. If you are going to be going out of town or
away for a period of time (factory recommends <=31 days) and you want to
ensure that the battery does not run down in the process, you can release the
IOD fuse located in the trunk at the PDC or Rear Power Distribution
Center.
Look
at the picture and explanation below to best utilize this electrical feature.
Ignition Off Draw Fuse
This
is called the IOD or "Ignition
Off Draw" fuse. It is used during assembly line work, and when vehicles
are in storage on dealer lots to prevent battery going dead.
It
is recommended if vehicle sits unused for a period of time, say for more than
10 days or so, that you pull it to shut off parasitic drain to the battery. The
down side is you will lose radio presets, but it will protect charge in the
battery. All you have to do is press black clips to raise fuse out of holder, do not attempt to completely remove it.
It's
in the PDC (Power Distribution
Center) block in the trunk. Pop the cover, and it's the big fuse (60 A) at the top - right beside where the positive lead
come in.
There are two small, black tabs along the edge of it. Push down on those, and
the fuse pops up. Don't remove it though..just pop it up.....Your trunk light
will go out, as well as your interior lights (along with compass reading,
etc.).
Test
by opening door and verify interior lights do not come on to see if it is
pulled properly. To restore vehicle electrical operations, just simply press it back into place.
This
is primarily used during assembly and transportation, when some storage is
incurred to keep the parasitic drain to a minimum.
The
following systems are affected with this 60A
fuse is removed from the battery supply circuit.
Sub
Fuses #14 (10A), #36 (20A), #38 (10A) and #44 (20A) will have no
12VDC supplied to them.
Systems directly affected by this are;
1. Instrument Cluster
2. Module, A/C, Heater front.
3. Radio
4. Radio Power Amplifier
5. Cargo Lamp (trunk)
6. TIPM (Total Integrated Power Supply)
a. ODBII Diagnostics port (CAN BUS D)
b. Radiator Fan controls, High, Low Fan
c. Wiper blade control
d. Relay, Auto Shutdown
e. Relay Run/Start
f. PCM (Power Train Control Module)
g. Any and ALL other "control power" for accessory items powered by TIPM, example HORN, Fog Lights.
7. Navigation System
8. Hands Free Module
9. Homelink System (Module, Electronics, overhead)
10. Motor, Module, Sunroof
Note:
When the vehicle CAN BUS is "inactive" all accessory and vehicle
control modules will go into sleep (low
power) mode.
In
short, the IOD fuse and its usage is determined by the actual need for
reduction of short term parasitic battery drain. Depending on ambient temperature, battery
charge and electrolyte condition and long term battery storage characteristics
of your particular battery, you should evaluate your reasoning and timing for
any short term usage.
If
you are going to have the vehicle stored for > 31 days, the factory says in its advisory to disconnect the NEG battery lead to completely isolate
the battery. This will remove all power
and doubt about any parasitic battery drain, but note some details here. Hence, the dividing line between long term
and short term usage is recommended at 31 days.
Ok,
so you do this (disconnect battery) and once you close the trunk lid, you
cannot get back into the vehicle again as your doors are locked and the trunk
has no keyhole for valet key and the FOBIK is no longer functional. So you are forced to use the Emergency Key
(Valet) and either crawl back through the back seat and pull the emergency
release inside the trunk rear decklid to open it, or
think ahead and tie a piece of strong cord to the handle inside and have it
threaded out the side so you can pull it.
Or you can open the hood and place a battery charger on the TIPM power
posts and power up the trunk actuator so you can enter. Even the use of a "Settings Saver"
on the power port in the center console may be a quick way to get back inside
the trunk.
Either
way, realize the issues here with complete battery disconnection.
Here
is what "limited comment" the Dodge Challenger's owner's manual
states about this IOD fuse;
noFUSE
If the vehicle diagnostic system determines
that the Ignition Off Draw (IOD) fuse is improperly
installed, or damaged, a “noFUSE” message will display in the odometer display area.
For further
information on fuses and fuse locations
refer to “Fuses” in “Maintaining Your Vehicle”.
Q:
If I use the IOD fuse and I don't place it back into its holder on day 32 or 33
will my battery be dead then?
A:
I would say no, but again the long term use is subject totally to your specific
battery condition, size, ambient temperatures and other battery charge
affecting variables.
I personally would not recommend
using the IOD fuse for no more than 5-6 weeks tops.
My
recommendation would be to use a "Battery Tender Jr." on your vehicle
and thus not even worry about battery condition or charge, as this device will
monitor and keep the battery in peak charge condition while the vehicle is idle
(not being driven). These cars draw
about 30-40 mA
from the battery when dormant (depending on model and option packages) which
will drain your battery in 60-90 days. If you have any aftermarket add on
electronics, the draw may be much greater and the discharge much faster as
well.
You
can click this Tip:156 for the Battery Tender Jr. information
tip.
But
if you have no AC power to your storage location, the only option is to use the
IOD Fuse or disconnect the battery depending on the actual length of time
required for storage.
Fuel System, Fuel Pump Module
This vehicle uses a saddle
type tank that has a reservoir on both sides of the rear drive shaft. The
fuel pump is in the module on the
left side of the vehicle (2) and the fuel pressure regulator
is in the module on the right side of vehicle (1). The fuel outlet is on the
right side and supplies fuel to the engine. The fitting on
the fuel pump module (left side) is a vapor line fitting that connects to the
right side module.
Both modules have fuel level sending cards. There are 2
hoses that connect the modules together, one is the fuel supply line the other
is a return or siphon hose. The lines are removed from the fuel pump module
when servicing either unit. The ORVR (Onboard Refueling Vapor Recovery) control
valve is in the right side module.
|
Left side fuel module with electrical connector (1), vapor
fitting (2), and level sensor (3)
|
Right side fuel module with vapor
fittings (1), siphon hose (2), fuel supply line (3), and pressure regulator (4)
|
Top view of the right side fuel module with control valve
(1), fuel supply fitting (2), fuel pressure regulator (3), and level sensor (4)
The way the pump works is as follows, fuel enters the
reservoir of the driver side module. The fuel pump pumps the fuel through the
filter to the passenger side module through a supply line inside tank. The pressure
regulator inside the passenger side module regulates the pressure at 58 psi.
All unused fuel that is not sent to the engine is fed through a venturi at the bottom of the passenger side module. This
creates a low pressure siphoning effect and draws fuel from the passenger side
of the tank and transfers it to the drivers side tank
via siphon hose inside the tank. While the vehicle is running the fuel in the
passenger side of tank is continuously transferred to the drivers
side. Fuel will continue to fill the drivers side
tank till it reaches the bridge section and then start to spill over to the
passenger side.
As stated above we have two fuel level senders, the reading
of these senders are averaged out to give us the fuel gauge reading. When we
are diagnosing a sender concern the passenger side reading should never be
higher than the Drivers side reading. It is possible, depending on fuel level
and driving habit before diagnosing, to spill fuel over to the passenger side
that might indeed show a lower resistance value than the driver side.
The
fuel gauge gives an indication to the vehicle operator of the level of fuel in
the fuel tank.
This
gauge is controlled by the instrument cluster circuit board based upon cluster
programming and a hard wired input received by the cluster from the fuel level
sending units on the modules in the fuel tank.
The instrument cluster continually monitors the fuel tank
sending units to determine the level of fuel in the fuel tank. The cluster then
sends the proper fuel level messages to other electronic modules in the vehicle
over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus.
For further diagnosis of the fuel gauge or the instrument
cluster circuitry that controls the gauge, (Refer
to 08 - Electrical/8J - Instrument Cluster/Instrument Cluster - Diagnosis and
Testing) . The fuel gauge is serviced as a unit with the instrument
cluster.
The tech needs to order the correct part when replacing, the
senders, modules, and tank as all are able to be replaced individually.
Tip:167
Fuel Correction or PCM adaptive Memories
This is an immediate response to the O2 sensor signal that
is not switching or is consistently high or low. If the upstream oxygen sensor
voltage is not consistently switching between 2.5 and 3.5 volts, the PCM knows
that the base pulse width calculation needs to be modified by adjusting the
injector pulse width until the correct O2 sensor voltage is achieved. The need
to adjust the injector pulse width may be a result of vehicle operating
conditions, engine wear, fuel quality, etc. The maximum range of authority for
Short Term Adaptive is ±33%. Short Term Adaptive values are not stores when the
ignition is off.
There are 26 cells used for the NGC. Two of the cells are
used only during idle, as determined by throttle position and park/neutral
switch input. The other cells each represent a given off-idle manifold pressure
and rpm range.
After the vehicle has reached full operating temperature, short
term correction factors will update Long Term Adaptive Memory cells
based on vehicle load (RPM/MAP) to allow the Short Term Adaptive value to be
brought back to near zero. Once this correction factor is updated in the
memory, it will be used by the PCM under all operating conditions, open loop
and closed loop.
However, the values stored in the Long-term are updated only
after the vehicle has entered long-term closed loop at full operating
temperature.
This is done to prevent any transition temperature or start-up
compensation form corrupting long term fuel correction.
Long Term and Short Term Adaptive can each change the pulse
width by as much as ±33% for a maximum
total correction of ±66% from base pulse width calculation.
Long Term Adaptive values are used during both Open Loop and Closed Loop
operation.
Note: See Also: Tip:39 Resetting NGC (PCM) Driver Fuel
Adaptive’s
Low Fuel Indicator Light
Low Fuel Light
This light will turn on and a single chime will sound when the fuel level drops to 1/8 tank.
Estimated driving distance, the DTE display will change to a
text display of _LOW FUEL_.
This display will continue until the vehicle runs out of fuel.
Adding a significant amount
of fuel to the vehicle will turn off the _LOW
FUEL_
text and a new DTE value will display.
Modes of Operation
for the NGC (PCM)
You will see the Challenger's Powertrain Control Module (PCM or engine computer) referred to as the NCG, which is the next level of automotive PCM type computers but with a new "rationality" capability feature thus now calling it the Next Generation Controller.
As input signals to the PCM change, the PCM adjusts its
response to output devices. For example, the PCM must calculate a different
injector pulse width and ignition timing for idle than it does for Wide Open
Throttle (WOT). There are several different modes of operation that determine
how the PCM responds to the various input signals.
The multi-port fuel injection systems has the following
modes of operation:
Ignition switch ON (Zero RPM)
Engine start-up
Engine warm-up
Cruise
Idle
Acceleration
Deceleration
Wide-Open-Throttle
Ignition switch OFF
Within these modes of operation, there are two different
types of operation, OPEN LOOP and CLOSED
LOOP.
During OPEN LOOP operation the PCM receives input signals
and responds according to preset PCM programming. Inputs from the upstream and
downstream heated oxygen sensors are not monitored during OPEN LOOP operation,
except for heated oxygen sensor diagnostics (they are checked for shorted
conditions at all times).
During CLOSED LOOP operation the PCM monitors the inputs
from the upstream and downstream heated oxygen sensors. The upstream heated
oxygen sensor input tells the PCM if the calculated injector pulse width
resulted in the ideal air-fuel ratio of 14.7 to one. By monitoring the exhaust
oxygen content through the upstream heated oxygen sensor, the PCM can fine tune
injector pulse width. Fine tuning injector pulse width allows the PCM to
achieve optimum fuel economy combined with low emissions.
For the PCM to enter CLOSED LOOP operation, the following
must occur:
Engine coolant temperature must be
over 35°F (1.7°C). |
If the coolant is over 35°F (1.7°C) the
PCM will wait 38 seconds.
If the coolant is over 50°F (10°C) the
PCM will wait 15 seconds.
If the coolant is over 167°F (75°C) the
PCM will wait 3 seconds.
For other temperatures the PCM will
interpolate the correct waiting time.
O2 sensor must read either greater
than 0.745 volts or less than 0.29 volt. |
OPEN LOOP operation is used for engine start-up (crank),
engine warm-up, deceleration with fuel shutoff and wide open throttle. Under
most conditions, acceleration, deceleration (with A/C on), idle and cruise
modes, with the engine at operating temperature occur in CLOSED LOOP
operation.
When the ignition switch activates the fuel injection
system, the following actions occur:
The PCM monitors the engine coolant
temperature sensor and throttle position sensor input.
The PCM determines basic fuel injector pulse width from this input.
The PCM determines atmospheric air
pressure from the MAP sensor input to modify injector
pulse width.
When the key is in the ON position and the engine is not
running (zero rpm), the Auto Shutdown (ASD) and fuel pump relays de-energize
after approximately 1 second. Therefore, battery voltage is not supplied to the
fuel pump, ignition coil, fuel injectors and heated oxygen sensors.
This is an OPEN LOOP mode. If the vehicle is in park or
neutral (automatic transaxles) or the clutch pedal is depressed (manual
transaxles) the ignition switch energizes the starter relay when the engine is
not running. The following actions occur when the starter motor is engaged.
If the PCM receives the camshaft
position sensor and crankshaft position sensor signals, it energizes the Auto
Shutdown (ASD) relay and fuel pump relay. If the PCM does not receive both
signals within approximately one second, it will not energize the ASD relay and
fuel pump relay. The ASD and fuel pump relays supply battery voltage to the
fuel pump, fuel injectors, ignition coil, (EGR solenoid and PCV heater if
equipped) and heated oxygen sensors.
The PCM energizes the injectors (on the
69° falling edge) for a calculated pulse width until it determines crankshaft
position from the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor
signals. The PCM determines crankshaft position within 1 engine revolution.
After determining crankshaft position,
the PCM begins energizing the injectors in sequence. It adjusts injector pulse
width and controls injector synchronization by turning the individual ground
paths to the injectors On and Off.
When the engine idles within ±64 RPM of
its target RPM, the PCM compares current MAP sensor value with the atmospheric
pressure value received during the Ignition Switch On (zero RPM) mode.
Once the ASD and fuel pump relays have been energized, the
PCM determines injector pulse width based on the following:
MAP
Engine RPM
Engine coolant temperature
Inlet/Intake air temperature (IAT)
Throttle position
The number of engine revolutions since
cranking was initiated
During Start-up the PCM maintains ignition timing at 9°
BTDC.
This is an OPEN LOOP mode. The following inputs are received
by the PCM:
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
Crankshaft position (engine speed)
Engine coolant temperature
Inlet/Intake air temperature (IAT)
Camshaft position
Knock sensor
Throttle position
A/C switch status
Vehicle speed
Speed control
O2 sensors
The PCM adjusts injector pulse width and controls injector
synchronization by turning the individual ground paths to the injectors On and
Off.
The PCM adjusts ignition timing and engine idle speed.
Engine idle speed is adjusted through the
idle air control motor.
When the engine is at operating temperature this is a CLOSED
LOOP mode. During cruising or idle the following inputs are received by the
PCM:
Manifold absolute pressure
Crankshaft position (engine speed)
Inlet/Intake air temperature
Engine coolant temperature
Camshaft position
Knock sensor
Throttle position
Exhaust gas oxygen content (O2 sensors)
A/C switch status
Vehicle speed
The PCM adjusts injector pulse width and controls injector
synchronization by turning the individual ground paths to the injectors On and
Off.
The PCM adjusts engine idle speed and ignition timing. The
PCM adjusts the air/fuel ratio according to the oxygen content in the exhaust
gas (measured by the upstream and downstream heated oxygen sensor).
The PCM monitors for engine misfire. During active misfire and
depending on the severity, the PCM either continuously illuminates or flashes
the malfunction indicator lamp (Check Engine light on instrument panel). Also,
the PCM stores an engine misfire DTC in memory, if 2nd trip with fault.
The PCM performs several diagnostic routines. They include:
Oxygen sensor monitor
Downstream heated oxygen sensor
diagnostics during open loop operation (except for shorted)
Fuel system monitor
EGR monitor (if equipped)
Purge system monitor
Catalyst efficiency monitor
All inputs monitored for proper voltage
range, rationality.
All monitored components (refer to the
Emission section for On-Board Diagnostics).
The PCM compares the upstream and downstream heated oxygen
sensor inputs to measure catalytic convertor efficiency. If the catalyst
efficiency drops below the minimum acceptable percentage, the PCM stores a
diagnostic trouble code in memory, after 2 trips.
During certain idle conditions, the PCM may enter a variable
idle speed strategy. During variable idle speed strategy the PCM adjusts engine
speed based on the following inputs.
A/C status
Engine coolant temperature
Engine run time
Inlet/Intake air temperature
This is a CLOSED LOOP mode. The PCM recognizes an abrupt
increase in Throttle Position sensor output voltage or MAP sensor output
voltage as a demand for increased engine output and vehicle acceleration. The
PCM increases injector pulse width in response to increased fuel demand.
This is a CLOSED LOOP mode. During deceleration the
following inputs are received by the PCM:
A/C status
Inlet/Intake air temperature
Engine coolant temperature
Crankshaft position (engine speed)
Exhaust gas oxygen content (upstream
heated oxygen sensor)
Knock sensor
Manifold absolute pressure
Throttle position sensor
IAC motor (solenoid) control changes in
response to MAP sensor feedback
The PCM may receive a closed throttle input from the
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) when it senses an abrupt decrease in manifold
pressure. This indicates a hard deceleration (Open Loop). In response, the PCM
may momentarily turn off the injectors. This helps improve fuel economy,
emissions and engine braking.
This is an OPEN LOOP mode. During wide-open-throttle
operation, the following inputs are used by the PCM:
Inlet/Intake air temperature
Engine coolant temperature
Engine speed
Knock sensor
Manifold absolute pressure
Throttle position
When the PCM senses a wide-open-throttle condition through
the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) it de-energizes the A/C compressor clutch
relay. This disables the air conditioning system and disables EGR (if equipped).
The PCM adjusts injector pulse width to supply a
predetermined amount of additional fuel, based on MAP and RPM.
When the operator turns the ignition switch to the OFF
position, the following occurs:
All outputs are turned off, unless 02
Heater Monitor test is being run. Refer to the Emission section for On-Board
Diagnostics.
No inputs are monitored except for the
heated oxygen sensors.
The PCM monitors the heating elements in the oxygen sensors and then shuts
down.
Tip:170
Gauge Cluster Removal and Custom
Installations.
Cluster Removal and Installation (RedFox Racing)
http://www.freedrive.com/file/261134,in-car-cluster-install.mov
Yup that's Nathan from RedFox with that
video, also from that same site there is a .PDF file which is also very
helpful.
Redfox-Racing Custom Gauge Cluster Installation Manual.pdf
I removed my cluster last week in anticipation of the arrival of my
custom gauges from US Speedo. It was not a bad job.
The most nerve-wracking thing was pulling on the dash bezel until it released.
What you need to do is remove the cluster
and then remove the white bezel with the lens attached (6 T-10 screws) and then
you can clean the inside of the lens.
NHTSA Door Safety
Label Info (FMVSS)
This NHTSA
Vehicle Safety Certification Label (gov) also known
as the FMVSS sticker.
FEDERAL
MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARDS
AND REGULATIONS
U.S. DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION
NATIONAL
HIGHWAY TRAFFIC
SAFETY ADMINISTRATION
SAFETY
ASSURANCE
OFFICE OF VEHICLE SAFETY COMPLIANCE
The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration has a legislative mandate under Title 49 of the United States Code, Chapter 301, Motor Vehicle Safety, to issue Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS) and Regulations to which manufacturers of motor vehicle and equipment items must conform and certify compliance. FMVSS 209 was the first standard to become effective on March 1, 1967. A number of FMVSS became effective for vehicles manufactured on and after January 1, 1968. Subsequently, other FMVSS have been issued. New standards and amendments to existing standards are published in the Federal Register.
Part 567 - Certification Regulation
(Effective 8-31-69)
This part specifies the content and location of and other requirements for the
label or tag to be affixed to motor vehicles and items of motor vehicle
equipment manufactured after August 31, 1969. This certificate will provide the
consumer with information to assist him or her in determining which of the
Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards are applicable to the vehicle or item of
vehicle equipment, and its date of manufacture. An amendment effective January
1, 1972, required gross vehicle weight (GVWR) information on the certification
label.
Sticker breakdown: http://www.fta.dot.gov/laws/leg_reg_5431.html
The best way to tell if a vehicle has U.S. specifications is to look for the FMVSS sticker permanently located on the driver's side door jamb of the vehicle. Foreign vehicles not intended for sale in the U.S. do not meet these standards in most cases, and therefore are not eligible for registration in the U.S.
Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Instructions
Read more: How
to Tell if a Vehicle has US Specifications?
The Vehicle
Safety Compliance Certification label is attached to the driver's door lock
pillar. The label contains the name of the manufacturer, the month and year of
the vehicle, certification statement and VIN. The label also contains gross
vehicle weight and tire data.
http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/8828/8828.htm#8828R01_Vehicle_Safety_Compliance_Certif.htm
Fig. 1: The VIN (as well as other crucial
information) is found on this door jamb sticker below for an example from a
Ford Truck.
HOW TO: Decipher the Vehicle Safety Certification Label
VEHICLE SAFETY CERTIFICATION LABEL
A vehicle safety certification label is attached to every DaimlerChrysler
Corporation vehicle.
The label certifies that the vehicle conforms to all (NHTSA) applicable Federal
Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.
The label also lists:
† Month and year of vehicle
manufacture.
† Gross Vehicle Weight Rating
(GVWR).
The gross front and
rear axle weight ratings (GAWR’s) are based on a minimum rim size
and maximum cold tire
inflation pressure.
† Vehicle Identification Number
(VIN).
† Type of vehicle.
† Bar code.
† Month, Day and Hour (MDH) of
final assembly.
† Paint and Trim codes.
† Country of origin.
For Dodge Challenger, the FMVSS label is
located on the door outer door edge on the driver-side door.
For TPMS tire pressure, OEM tire and loading information, this
additional safety label is placed on the door jamb of the driver side
door opposite the NHTSA required FMVSS label.
This sticker above
contains all the Tire and Loading information required by Federal Law and well
as occupancy limits.
This label contains the "stock" tire information on the vehicle as
released from the vehicle manufacturer.
Net weight with
different model cfg's (Auto, Manual, etc.)
Weight 3,720 lb (SE G1)
Weight 3,834 lb (SE G2)
Weight 4,041 lb (RT G1)
Weight 4,082 lb (RT G2)
Weight 4,170 lb (SRT G1) Auto
Weight 4,160 lb (SRT G2) Auto
Weight 4,170 lb (SRT G2) manual
Reference: ALLPAR Ref
New "Passive Entry" addition to Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) features for 2011
KEYLESS ENTER-N-GO — IF EQUIPPED
The Passive Entry system is an enhancement to the vehicle’s
Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) system and a feature of Keyless Enter-N-Go. This
feature allows you to lock and unlock the vehicle’s door(s) without having to
press the RKE transmitter lock or unlock buttons.
NOTE:
• Passive Entry may be programmed ON/OFF,
refer to “Uconnect Touch™ Settings” in “Understanding
Your Instrument Panel” for further information.
• If a passive entry door handle has not
been used for 72 hours, the passive
entry feature for the handle may time out. Pulling the deactivated front door
handle will reactivate the door handle’s passive entry feature.
• If wearing gloves on your hands, or if it
has been raining on the passive entry door handle, the unlock sensitivity can
be affected, resulting in a slower response time.
• If you unlock the doors using the passive
entry door handles, but do NOT pull the handle, the doors will automatically
lock after 60 seconds.
To Unlock From The Driver’s Side:
With a valid Passive Entry RKE transmitter within 5 ft. (1.5 m)
of the driver’s side of the vehicle, grab the front driver door handle to
unlock the driver’s door automatically.
The interior door panel lock knob will raise when the door is unlocked.
Outside Door Handle Unlock/Lock Button
NOTE:
If “Unlock All Doors 1st Press” is
programmed all doors will unlock when you grab hold of the front driver’s door
handle. To select between “Unlock Driver Door 1st Press” and “Unlock All Doors
1st Press”, refer to “Uconnect Touch™ Settings” in
“Understanding Your Instrument Panel” for further information.
To Unlock From The Passenger Side:
With a valid Passive Entry RKE transmitter within 5 ft (1.5 m)
of the passenger side of the vehicle, grab the front passenger door handle to
unlock both doors automatically. The interior door panel lock knob will raise
when the door is unlocked.
NOTE:
Both doors will unlock when the front
passenger door handle is grabbed regardless of the driver’s door unlock
preference setting (“Unlock Driver Door 1st Press” or “Unlock All Doors 1st
Press”).
Preventing Inadvertent Locking Of Passive Entry RKE
Transmitter In Vehicle
To minimize the possibility of unintentionally locking a
Passive Entry RKE transmitter inside your vehicle, the Passive Entry system is
equipped with an automatic door unlock feature which will function if there is
no Key Fob present in the ignition.
If one of the vehicle doors is open and the door panel switch
is used to lock the vehicle, once all open doors have been closed, the vehicle
checks the inside and outside of the vehicle for any valid Passive Entry RKE
transmitters. If one of the vehicle’s Passive Entry RKE transmitters is detected
inside the vehicle, and no other valid Passive Entry RKE transmitters is
detected outside the vehicle, the Passive Entry System automatically unlocks
all vehicle doors and chirps the horn three times (on the third attempt ALL
doors will lock and the Passive Entry RKE transmitter can be locked in the
vehicle).
To Enter The Trunk
With a valid Passive Entry RKE transmitter within 3 ft (1.0 m)
of the deck lid, press the button on the located on the center of the light bar
which is located on the deck lid above the license plate.
NOTE:
If you inadvertently leave your vehicle’s Passive Entry RKE
transmitter in the trunk and try to close the deck lid, the deck lid will
automatically unlatch, unless another one of the vehicle’s Passive Entry RKE
transmitters is outside the vehicle and within 3 ft (1.0 m) of the deck lid.
To Lock The Vehicle’s Doors
With one of the vehicle’s Passive Entry RKE transmitters within
5 ft (1.5 m) of the driver or passenger front door handle, press the door
handle LOCK button to lock both doors.
NOTE:
• After pressing the door handle LOCK button,
you have two seconds before you can lock or unlock the doors, using either
passive entry door handle.
• The
passive entry system will not operate if the RKE transmitter battery is dead.
The vehicle doors can also be locked by using the RKE transmitter lock button
or the lock button located on the vehicle’s interior door panel.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is equipped with Keyless
Enter-N-Go (Passive Entry) and the EVIC is programmed to Unlock All Doors 1st
Press, all doors will unlock no matter which Passive Entry equipped door handle
is grasped. If Driver Door 1st Press is programmed, only the driver’s door will
unlock when the driver’s door is grasped. With Passive Entry, if Driver Door
1st Press is programmed touching the handle more than once will only result in
the driver’s door opening. If driver door first is selected, once the driver
door is opened, the interior door lock/unlock switch can be used to unlock all
doors (or use RKE transmitter).
NOTE:
There has been a
TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) released 3/15/2011 for 2011 Dodge Challenger
with Keyless Enter-N-Go (Passive Entry) that corrects a security problem with
the system. For an up to date listing of Challenger TSB, RRT, and Safety Recall
list see Tip:153
TSB released for
2011 Challenger
Date Yr TSB # Description
03/15/11 |
2011 |
Decklid Can Be Opened Without The Key Fob Being In The Proximity Of The Vehicle |
Installing Radar Detector using Mirror Power for no-clutter wiring.
Help on hard wiring
with invisicord for Radar Detector
Q:
Does anyone know what leads you tap into on the back of the mirror to power a
radar detector?
I have the invisicord to match my escort 9500ix. It
has a yellow lead for 12V and black for ground.
A:
Look at this page below from Speedy's and note the
available purchase of a harness to mount your detector under the rear view
mirror.
For those who just need the wire
colors from the connector (C205) here
is the wiring diagram for 2009-10 Challenger on the "powered" mirror.
See Also: Tip:112 ElectroChromatic Mirror disable on Reverse feature
NHTSA complaints for Dodge Challenger
For those who are interested in checking the Federal Governments records on official complaints from customers on their new Dodge Challengers, you can go to this website and do a search to get the results like the example listed below. When you file an official complaint with the NHTSA about a vehicle, you will be given a CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER: XXXXXXX; that will be used to record and track the complaint.
Here is a link to all customer complaints as submitted to
the National Highway and Traffic Administration on Chrysler Group/Dodge
Challenger for year 2009. If you have entered a complaint to
NHTSA you can see if your VIN NUMBER is recorded below.
You can find out about your 2010 or 2011 Challenger NHTSA
official complaint listing by doing a search of by selecting:
1.) VEHICLE TYPE
2.) MODEL YEAR
3.) MAKE
4.) MODEL
5.) COMPONENT (SELECT ALL BOX)
Check to Request
Complaint Research. Submit below.
Search Results |
|
|||||||||||||||||
Results : 32 | All records displayed |
|
Make : DODGE |
Model : CHALLENGER |
Year : 2010 |
Manufacturer : CHRYSLER GROUP LLC |
|
|
Crash : No |
Fire : No |
Number of Injuries: 0 |
ODI ID Number : 10386728 |
Number of Deaths: 0 |
|
Date of Failure: August 7, 2010 |
|
|
VIN : 2B3CJ4DV3AH... |
|
|
Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM |
Steering Control Module (SCM)
DESCRIPTION
WARNING: |
To service any component of the SCCM, the entire assembly
must be removed from the column. The
Steering Control Module (SCM) is the module located in the bottom of the
Steering Column Control Module (SCCM), retained by three screws, and is the
mating point for all the switches (steering angle sensor, tilt/telescopic
switch, multi-function switch, clockspring) located
in the SCCM. The steering wheel switches, horn, speed control switches,
attach to the steering wheel and interface to the SCM through the SCCM. The
SCM is screwed directly to the bottom of the multi-function switch. All the
other switches are mounted on top of the multi-function switch. OPERATION
|
The Steering Control Module (SCM) communicates via the Local
Interconnect Network (LIN) serial data bus (9600 bps) to the steering wheel
switches and the horn switch. The SCM communicates across the CAN C and CAN B.
This is an ultra-low voltage serial data bus that allows the following
components to communicate with the Controller Area Network (CAN) B and C data
buses.
The SCM changes the LIN (low speed) communication to CAN
communication and also stores Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) for the switches
within the SCCM and on the steering wheel.
The SCM is not serviceable and if found faulty, it must be replaced as a unit.
Tip:176
Front Clip Removal for Black Chrome Grill
Mod
For those who are going to install the Black Chrome Grill Surround, the document below is quite helpful in understanding and detailing how to disassemble the front clip on your Dodge Challenger. Dodge has not made it easy to change the grill or other front end items, but knowing how to do it properly is 95% of the battle!
http://www.moparsupercenter.com/pdfs/82212354.pdf
End User Input from "Chris":
I have an input for installing the mopar black chrome grille surround. You can install it
without removing the whole front end. You wrap 3 or 4 very thin flat head
screwdrivers (or butter knives) in some painters tape, then line them up using
the black chrome replacement piece as a reference for where the clips are
located and gently hammer them(screwdrivers or butter knives) into the gap
towards the grille. Just enough to disengage the factory clip, then you can
gently pry out and move on to the next one until you have completed all of
them. The new one just pops into place. There was some minor marring on the
inner edges of the clips on the factory silver grille surround, but it is still
re-usable if you choose to go back. The marring would not be visible when
reinstalled or affect it from latching into place.
Sorry if this is pretty wordy, but I was relieved to find a method that didn't
involve taking the whole front end off. I did this mod in my garage by myself
in about an hour and 20 minutes.
ESP and Electronic
Stability Program FAQ’s
Q: What is ESP,
what does it mean?
A: ESP in a simplified way means a computer monitoring of vehicle speed, braking intensity, pitch, yaw and traction
are all taken into consideration and a "supervisory" type control
action is taken if a problem is detected.
History:
Electronic Stability Program or ESP is the name given by the
Chrysler corporation to the electronic driver’s aids that are used to help
motorists keep their vehicles under control when faced with inclement weather
conditions or extreme driving situations. Introduced in 2004, ESP was first available exclusively
on the Chrysler 300 and Dodge Magnum. The reason these vehicles were chosen to
roll out the technology is because at the time, Chrysler had merged with
Mercedes and formed the DaimlerChrysler corporation, and
the LX platform upon which they were based was in fact adapted from the
Mercedes-Benz E-Class. Mercedes had been perfecting their ESP technology since
1995, and the years of development directly benefited these Chrysler
products.
The German auto manufacturer had long claimed that the Electronic Stability
Program had played a significant role in reducing the number of serious
accidents that their vehicles had been involved in.
In 2006, Chrysler announced that they would be installing the
system on an additional 1.2 million vehicles, with the eventual goal of
covering 70 percent of their vehicle lineup.
How ESP works:
The Electronic Stability Program from Chrysler is a fairly
complex piece of automotive engineering.
The aim of this system was to move beyond a safety program which was only
active during acceleration. ESP is armed as soon as the vehicle is started, and
sensor data is gathered at all times. This data is fed into an active computer
model which compares the standard behavior of the vehicle’s driver against the
actual driving situation as reported by the sensor information. The model is
adaptive and learns the driving habits of the vehicle owner, using this
information to generate the baseline of safe values to use for comparison purposes.
Through this methodology, the ESP system is designed to rapidly react to any
deviations between expected values and the condition of the vehicle.
This computer model sets the Chrysler Electronic Stability
Program apart from other, more basic brake and throttle management stability
control systems. Information such as vehicle speed, braking intensity, pitch
and yaw and traction are all taken into consideration. Wheel speed is
determined by the same sensors that are used to help the anti-lock braking
system (ABS) system choose where braking force should be applied. Steering
angle is measured by a sensor in the steering column that notes the position of
the steering wheel relative to the actual direction of the vehicle as
determined by the yaw sensor.
A sensor measuring the lateral acceleration of a vehicle is used
to ascertain if the vehicle is in the middle of a skid or not. All of these
factors are calculated extremely rapidly by the central processing unit of the
ESP system, since at highway speeds even milliseconds can result in a
significant amount of distance traveled.
How ESP can help:
If the Electronic Stability Program determines that intervention
is needed, it can respond in a variety of ways to ensure the continued safe
operation of the vehicle. ESP can reduce engine power, thus eliminating wheel
spin and slowing down the vehicle in a low-traction situation. It can also take
multiple steps to correct a skid or slide, such as individually applying the
brakes to each wheel in order to prevent the vehicle from rotating or building
enough inertia to roll over. It can also take the extreme option of both
applying the brakes and cutting power to bring the vehicle to a complete stop,
should it decide that conditions are too treacherous to continue driving.
A common misconception is that stability control programs use the ABS system in
order to control the braking pressure at each wheel. In reality, ESP must
increase braking pressure individually, while an ABS system reduces the braking
pressure of an individual wheel while maintaining uniform pressure for the
remaining brakes.
This means that the Electronic Stability Program requires a
separate brake modulator.
Disabling ESP:
ESP is now a common feature in Chrysler and Dodge vehicles, and
in most of these cars it cannot be completely disabled. Unlike other stability programs on the
market, pushing the button on the dash to ‘deactivate’ the system merely lowers
its sensitivity. In the case of extreme
wheel spin or radical lateral movement, ESP will kick in to reign the vehicle
back under control. In order to completely remove the Electronic Stability
Program from the equation, it is necessary to pull a fuse underneath the hood
of the car.
In response to consumer demand, some of Chrysler’s more performance-oriented
vehicles are now being outfitted with an ESP system which does not require such
an extreme step in order to be turned off completely.
FAQ#2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxedwell How do you turn the traction control "partially off?" |
SRT8 ESP
Think of a scale from 0-100, where 0=NO
computer intervention (completely under human control, like a Viper) and 100=computer checks each and every
variable and input to ensure that the vehicle is always under complete control
(if not by human then by microprocessor).
ESP primarily works by controlling throttle and braking (usually one wheel or
another), not steering or any other input.
"On" means that you're always subject to the computer monitoring the
situation (which may or may not be your perception) and the computer overriding
your power inputs to make sure the vehicle stays in control at all times.
Realistically, in an SRT, this would be like a "90" or a
"95" -- the engineers want you to have a little bit of room to get
some squeal or some fun, but the computer will always save your butt. No
donuts, no burnouts.
The Charger and Jeep are closer to 95 by default, the Challenger more like 90
by default (SRT engineers have confirmed this IIRC in a chat session)
"Off" (simple press and let go of ESP button" means that the
computer relaxes somewhat, say at a "60 or "65" on our scale.
You get some tire squeal, some burnouts, but the computer will still intervene
in certain situations where it deems you're getting dangerous.
This setting is fine for most non-performance drivers, who want a little danger
in their lives, without really risking much. Don't get me wrong, this is still
largely a dry-weather setting only, but you'll probably be fine in rain with it
off as long as you're watching what's going on.
"Off" (hold the button until you get the DING and EVIC explicitly
warns you) puts it at about "25" or maybe "30" on the
scale. You're going to be a LOT more like a Viper, with much less nanny
babysitting your power inputs. You will be able to do long, nasty burnouts, and
take long drifts around sweepers. HOWEVER, the computer is still watching, and
will intervene in certain "extreme conditions" (that you may
encounter in track or crash situations).
THIS is
what most car magazines complain about, with ESP never being totally off.
You will be affected if you're trying to max out performance. There is no way
that I know of to COMPLETELY "disable ESP", unfortunately.
It's just part and parcel to the product
line of cars.
SEE ALSO: Tip:15 ESP and
Cruise Control
web Links;
www.300cforums.com/.../faq.../3173-tech-electronic-stability-program-esp-how-works.html
www.benzworld.org/.../1344601-electronic-stability-program-esp-acceleration-slip.html
www.youtube.com/watch?v=NiZjeeMExY4
www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1qt84c2KN0
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_stability_control
ETC - Electronic
Throttle Control
This
is also generically known as a "Fly-by-wire" fuel control system, as
opposed to older or legacy "direct cable" systems. So in most modern vehicles, there is no
"direct cable" connection between the accelerator pedal and the throttle
body that controls air into the intake manifold. The technology has been around for the past
25 years and is not new.
There
have been a number of upgrade, iterations or improvements over the years and
current systems are very sofisticated.
Here are some good information links to get this started; Topic link: http://www.answers.com/topic/drive-by-wire
Advantages:
Safety
can be improved by providing computer controlled intervention of vehicle
controls with systems such as Electronic Stability Control (ESC), Adaptive
Cruise Control and Lane Assist Systems.
Accelerator
and TPS position sensors.
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h33.pdf
For
those who really like the hard-core scientific aspect of this control scheme,
here is a link to a ETC white paper;
Diagnosis
of automotive electronic throttle control systems
Note that you will
see this abbreviation: LH = shorthand for
"limp-home"
Ok,
your next question: What is
"limp-home"?
It's
the "return spring" in the throttle body and its effect on linearity:
An
electronic throttle is a low-power dc servo drive which positions the throttle
plate. Its application in modern
automotive engines leads to improvements in vehicle drivability, fuel economy,
and emissions. Transmission friction and the return spring "limp-home" nonlinearity significantly
affect the electronic throttle bodies performance.
This is an insidious failure as it may not provide any
symptoms until there is total failure. All cars having a TPS have what is known
as a 'limp-home-mode'. When the car goes into the limp-home-mode it is because
the accelerator and engine control computer and the throttle are not talking to
each other in a way that they can understand. The engine control computer shuts
down the signal to the throttle position motor and a set of springs in the
throttle set it to a fast idle, fast enough to get the transmission in gear but
not so fast that driving may be dangerous.
Oh,
it even gets hairier if you really want to dig deeper:
A
dynamic friction adaptive is developed in order to adequately capture the
observed characteristics of the presliding-displacement
and breakaway effects. The linear part
of electronic throttle process is also analyzed and identified. A nonlinear control strategy is proposed,
consisting of a proportional-integral-derivative (PID) controller and a
feedback compensator for friction and limp-home effects. The PID controller parameters are
analytically optimized (adaptive's) according to the
damping optimum criterion.
Also
note that ESP has direct effect on the vehicle's "drive-by-wire"
control when it sees and unstable situation.
Varying degrees of throttle "over-ride or containment" may be
set when ESP takes over.
Now
if you have any further questions about drive-by-wire systems, I highly
recommend that you can go to the IEEE site below and continue your research
there:
An
electronic throttle control strategy including compensation of friction and limp-home
effects
Dodge
Challenger Basic ETC system and components;
Now,
let's look at how the ETC system basically works in our Dodge Challengers. We
have some basic hardware that are part of the Electronic Throttle Control
System;
1.
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
2. PCM - Powertrain
control module (engine computer) which contains the proportional-integral-derivative
(PID) controller
and a feedback
compensator for friction and limp-home effects
3. Throttle Body Servo Control
4.
ETC Fault Indicator Light on Instrument Panel
So,
in short, the PCM monitors the position of the accelerator and provides the
proper throttle body position to control air flow into the intake plenum and
sets the pulse width for the fuel injectors.
Note that the PCM also
accepts inputs from ESP and other
devices to trim or alter the accelerator pedal signal for vehicle safety and
control.
The
Accelerator Sensor and the Throttle Body Control have additional feedback
sensors to monitor the primary position sensors to detect errors or
faults. This is why it is very important
that if you have and ETC fault light on your instrument panel, that you take
this very seriously and get the vehicle in for service and diagnostic testing
as soon as possible.
Here
is an electrical sample diagram of the ETC pedal sensor (accelerator) and note
dual isolated 5VDC power supplies and grounds feeding the two separate pedal
position sensors. This pedal assembly
and wiring is tied directly into the PCM as two isolated inputs.
The
redundancy is for self check and real time ETC diagnostics.
Accelerator
Pedal Position Sensor
ETC Throttle Body Control
Electronic Throttle
Control
Definition:
Electronic Throttle Control (ETC), sometimes called
Drive-By-Wire (DBW), is a technology that replaces the conventional
cable/linkage connection between a vehicle's accelerator pedal and the engine's
throttle
body.
Almost all modern automobiles with mechanical linkage use a
throttle position sensor to determine throttle plate opening once the linkage
has set it. The most common arrangement is a Bowden wire mechanism.
ETC, instead, determines necessary throttle opening using
various input sensors (accelerator pedal position, engine RPM, engine vacuum
(load), vehicle speed), and then positions the throttle via an actuator driven
by a small, high-torque DC motor.
The main benefit of ETC is much quicker and accurate throttle
control that helps the powertrain and emissions
management systems deal with quickly changing conditions (ambient temperature,
atmospheric pressure and accessory loads) that are normally outside the
driver’s scope of control. In addition, this arrangement allows near seamless
interaction between the motors, engines, controllers and drivelines of hybrid
vehicles as well as motor/generators
in electric vehicles (EV)s.
ETC facilitates the integration of features such as cruise
control, traction control, stability
control, and precrash systems and
others that require torque management, since the throttle can be moved
irrespective of the position of the driver's accelerator pedal. ETC provides
only a very limited benefit in areas such as air-fuel ratio control, exhaust
emissions and fuel consumption reduction, working in concert with other
technologies such as gasoline direct injection.
A criticism of the very early ETC implementations was
that they were "overruling" driver decisions. Nowadays, the vast
majority of drivers have no idea how much intervention is happening. Much of
the engineering involved with drive-by-wire
technologies including ETC deals with failure and fault management. Most ETC
systems have sensor and controller redundancy, even as complex as independent
microprocessors with independently written software within a control module
whose calculations are compared to check for possible errors and faults.
Before drive by wire technology was introduced, if a
throttle stuck open a driver could generally put a toe under the accelerator
and lift up.
Occasionally after servicing or repair, the wire or cable
between the accelerator and throttle would not be correctly reinstalled causing
sudden acceleration.
However, with the ETC, the movement is all done by
electronic controls moving an electric motor. But just moving the throttle by
sending a signal to the motor is an open loop condition and leads to poor
control. Most if not all current ETC systems have a closed loop system whereby
the ECU tells the throttle to open a certain amount according to an algorithm
based on the geometry of the throttle. Then, if due to dirt build up in the
throttle bore or a damaged TPS a signal is sent from the TPS to the ECU, the
ECU can make appropriate adjustments to compensate, though it might result in
surging, hesitation or uneven idle.
There are two primary types of throttle position sensors:
a potentiometer or a Hall Effect sensor (magnetic device). The
potentiometer is a satisfactory way for non-critical applications such as
volume control on a radio, but as it has a wiper contact rubbing against a
resistance element, and dirt and wear between the wiper and the resistor can
cause erratic readings. The more reliable solution is the magnetic coupling
that makes no physical contact, so will never be subject to failing by wear.
This is an insidious failure as it may not provide any
symptoms until there is total failure. All cars having a TPS have what is known
as a 'limp-home-mode'. When the car goes into the limp-home-mode it is because
the accelerator and engine control computer and the throttle are not talking to
each other in a way that they can understand. The engine control computer shuts
down the signal to the throttle position motor and a set of springs in the
throttle set it to a fast idle, fast enough to get the transmission in gear but
not so fast that driving may be dangerous.
Recently, ETC has been suspected by some to be
responsible for some incidents of unintended acceleration in Toyota and Lexus
vehicles. This is fiercely disputed by Toyota, which blames unintended
acceleration on owners, weather mats, and most recently defective gas pedals
(outsource production). Federal Highway
Safety Commission finds no electronic failures as root cause of unintended
acceleration. Here is NHTSA Federal
Commission Report.
Current Patent;
Pedal position
rate-based electronic throttle progression
United States Patent 6915779
An engine control system in a vehicle including an
internal combustion engine, an electronic throttle controlling air flow to the
internal combustion engine, a controller controlling the position of the
electronic throttle, an accelerator pedal having an accelerator pedal sensor
that generates a signal to the controller, and where the controller computes a
rate of change for the accelerator pedal and actuates the electronic throttle
to a desired position based upon the rate of change for the accelerator pedal.
Links;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_throttle_control
http://alternativefuels.about.com/od/glossary/g/electhrottlcont.htm
http://articles.d-tips.com/art8.html
http://www.arenscontrols.com/index.cfm/products-electronic-throttle-foot
http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/FAQ/Delphi_Drive_by_wire_2000-01-0556.pdf
WA580 (NAG1) Automatic Maintenance and Mercedes Parts
This applies to the
WA580 (NAG1) 5 speed automatic. This is
a german made transmission and also used in several
model Mercedes vehicles.
If
you are doing any transmission maintenance or upgrades, and you are in need of
a new transmission filter; Part
#52108325AA
STOP!
& SAVE SOME $$$
I
called a local Chrysler dealership and was quoted $41.85 plus a $0.50
environmental charge.
I then called the local Mercedes-Benz dealership... $18.29, no environmental
charge.
MB Pat #A 140-277-00-95
LESS THAN HALF PRICE, DIRECT FROM MERCEDES-BENZ!
Exact
same filter, both the MB and Chrysler part numbers appear on the box.
Now, If you do buy it from a Chrysler dealership, it still comes in the
Mercedes box.
The
DODGE filter for NAG1 5 speed is 5210083325
AA = $20.46 at Mopar Supercenter
The pan gasket is DODGE P/N 52108332 AA= $9.79 at Mopar SuperCenter
Tell them you want the LX Forum Discount.
The dealership's dip stick #9336A
can be purchased directly from SPX Corp Miller Special Tools; it was $46
dollars plus shipping about 3 months ago when I got mine directly from
company...I need to find that old post. The Full fill mark is at 80mm at full
hot and on a level surface.
The fluid is ATF+4 and is commercially available under many aftermarket
manufacturers like Castrol, Advanced auto, Citgo, Havoline, Mobil, Mobil Super, NAPA, Parts plus, Penzoil, Quaker state, Vavoline
and others under license to Chrysler.
Owners Manual states 5 litres for service fill (10.6
pts), 7.7 litres (16.3 pts)for overhaul fill (ie new trans and/or TC).
Local NYC Metro dealerships want $210 for trans service which is
fluid/filter/gasket/fluid.
Useful Mercedes Part Numbers (NAG1
Transmission)
This list below provides Mercedes part numbers for items useful
to LX/LC owners.
Ok, first item:
Transmission dipstick tool
(Part number is correct, and so is your dealer. It's a dipstick
tool to check fluid level. You do not leave it in the car) Also, Its only $20 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...motiveQ5fTools (Note: See also Tip:59 NAG1 Dipstick and Transmission Level Checking (AUTO))
This allows checking the fluid
level without having to use the Starscan for
transmission temps.
140 589 15 21 00
Trans Pan w/drain plug
140 270 08 12
Transmission Pan Gasket
Normal maintenance part
140 271 00 80
Transmission Filter
Normal maintenance part
140 277 00 95
Transmission Electrical plug Adapter with
O-rings.
You need this if you have a leak at the plug on the transmission.
203 540 02 53
Transmission Electrical plug Adapter
O-rings.
These are replacement o-rings for the above plug.
026 997 40 48 28
026 997 41 48 28
Blue Top Transmission Solenoids
These will increase line pressure and therefore shift firmness in the 5 speed
NAG1 Tranny.
240 270 00 89
Rear Diff Cooler and required Diff Cover for 215mm rear
Keep those rears cooled off.
Cooler: 171 351 0108
Cover: 204 351 05 08
Thanks to Jim McVeigh
Parking Brake Pedal Cover (Matches Mopar
Pedal Covers)
203 430 00 84
!!!May need a bit of trimming to the rubber back in Auto cars!!!
Thanks to Speedy at Challengertalk.com
Check out "getmercedsparts.com"
good prices.
Note: See also; Tip:188
New
Product: High Performance NAG1 Transmission Kit
Tip:180
MOPAR
Performance MTCM - vs Stock TCM and warnings;
From SRT Engineers
Chat session;
Thanks for listening and answering our questions, I have
a 2009 charger SRT-8 and the transmission still upshift's
out of first at any time it wants.
Will the new MTCM change that and what are the shift points? Part # on the box
is p5155177, part # on the actual controller is pp5155179aa, have
not installed this yet because the dealership installed the first one by the
instructions and fried it, I'm now told just to install it at home and run the
adaptive's, yes or no, thanks again.
P5155177 is the kit part number. P5155179 is the part number for the actual
controller. The new TCM does have the hold-in-gear
feature that will prevent it from upshifting in Autostick mode. The shift points are the same. Sorry to
hear your first controller got
damaged. The instructions do warn against initializing the controller as that
will wipe out the MOPAR Programming.
See
below.
WARNING! WARNING! WARNING!
DO NOT USE THE STARSCAN "INITIALIZE EGS - 52/53" FUNCTION AS YOU
WOULD WHEN REPLACING A FACTORY TCM.
DOING SO WILL CORRUPT THE MOPAR PERFORMANCE TCM PROGRAMMING AND WILL RENDER THE
MTCM MODULE
NON FUNCTIONAL.
Most
customers should be able to install the part themselves, just be sure to follow all the instructions included
with the kit.
You
may wish to use Velcro and temporarily attach the MTCM over the TCM using the
following procedure;
Challenger TCM module removal
- If you've loaded a tune via Predator...Return it to factory.
- Meaning load your factory Back up!
- Open the driver's door and remove the plastic cover that's about even with
the split for the UPR and LWR dash.
- It just snaps in.
- Remove the screw that was under the cover.
- Remove the screw under the LWR Dash.
- Remove the fitted Wire cover under the LWR dash.
- It just pulls down.
- The LWR dash Snaps in Place. Pry it out.
- The TCM will be facing you, with (2) large wire bundle plugged into it.
Suggestion:
Leave the factory TCM in place. Velcro the new TCM to the old TCM.
It
works best that way and its very simple to bring the old TCM back on line!
Note
see also; Tip:188 New Product: High Performance NAG1 Transmission Kit
Emergency Brake - Matching Pedal Cover
If you have the Challenger Sports Pedal covers (stainless
with rubber dots) you will like this!
Many have these nice pedal covers on their Challengers, but Dodge did not put a matching cover on the
emergency brake pedal - it's a plain rubber cover.
Note that many Mercedes parts fit the LX/LC Charger/Challenger and there is a Mercedes Benz part matches perfectly.
Call your local Mercedes Benz dealer and ask Parts Dept. to order a Part #203-430-00-84.
It will came in 3 days later and cost $20. I am guessing these pedal covers were shared parts from when Mercedes Benz owned Chrysler.
While it is a tight fit to get it on, it is a perfect match in looks and
fit. Use a little Windex, Silicone spray
or WD-40, as it will help lubricate getting the pedal cover on.
On vehicles with automatic, these covers will may need a little bit of trimming
on the back side to fit.
See picture;
Copper Spark Plugs vs. Iridium and Platinum:
Copper Spark Plugs vs.
Iridium and Platinum:
Understand for Challenger and Top Performance
Many people
come to the point where they are forced to change the spark plugs on their
vehicle and face a difficult decision; copper spark plugs or those of
another type?
You can
find spark plugs in a variety of different metal combinations, including
aluminum spark plugs, iridium plugs, platinum and more. Copper core spark plugs
are still the most commonly seen, however, and many people agree that they are
the best. However, the advertising that accompanies the different types of
spark plugs is potentially misleading, so it's important to recognize the real
difference between the spark plugs in question. In order to do that, it's
necessary to first learn about what the metal in the spark plug is used for.
As a
general rule, most copper plugs need to be changed every 30-50k miles or so.
Pulling a plug or two to inspect the tips for wear, etc., would be the final
determination on the vehicle in question.
Platinum and iridium plugs can often go for twice that before they
require changing, but the overall performance will not be as good and you may
have to deal with overheating of the plugs. This is potentially not worth the
added cost of both platinum and iridium spark plugs, although the decision will
depend upon your preference.
If
you have any other questions about spark plugs and which are right for your
vehicle, consult with a 'trusted'
mechanic for more advice.
See also Tip:69 for
specific technical info on Dodge Challenger Spark plugs and replacement.
Dreaded Front
Suspension Pop!
For
those who have lowered their front ends, or have done other front suspension
work, be aware of an issue concerning the front sway bar and end links.
I may
have an easy fix for the “Dreaded Suspension Pop” a lot of us are hearing,
especially car’s built in the fall of 2008.
The problem (for me at least) was in the
sway bar end links. Thanks to Ken in Katy, Texas
for the heads-up on this.
Here
are picture's of how it came assembled from the factory. CLICK
HERE for additional material and information.
Tip: 184
Center Taillight Assembly Removal
1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the two screws (2) that
secure the outboard ends of the center tail lamp unit (3) to the deck lid (1).
3. Remove the four wing nuts (1) from the back side of the
trunk lid.
4. Remove
the two push pin retainers (3). from the bottom of the center tail lamp unit.
5. Carefully pull the center tail lamp
unit away from the trunk lid and disconnect the electrical connector (2).
Note:
See also good information contained in Tip:154 Installing Wing
Spoiler on Dodge Challenger
Tip:185
Rear End Lubrication/Service Interval
A Challenger Forum member writes;
This is what started my quest for a definitive answer on what Dodge/Chrysler
expected of its owners of the Challengers, and more importantly how I could
keep mine out of the shop, both while under warranty, and long after as the
2010's do not have the lifetime warranty. Being a new R/T owner and not wanting
to look like an idiot, the first place I turned was the owner's manual, to see
when the rear end oil is supposed to be changed. I thought I must be missing
something as IT IS NOT IN THE R/T OWNERS MANUAL.
Additional pertinent info for R/T is available in the SRT owner's manual.
Consider this;
Rear End Service/Lubrication RT/SRT (Service Interval)
2010 Challenger SRT Owner's Manual (pgs.
391-393)
24,000 Miles (40,000 km) or 24 Months
Maintenance Service Schedule
❏ Change the manual transmission fluid (if
equipped) if using your vehicle for any of the following:
❏ Most of your driving is at sustained high
speeds during hot weather, above 90°F (32°C), driving in dusty conditions, or
stop and go driving.
❏ Inspect the rear axle fluid if you have
been pulling a trailer or have been running the rear diff. at a heavy duty
cycle. Change as needed.
36,000 Miles (60,000 km) or 36 Months
Maintenance Service Schedule
❏ Inspect the rear axle fluid. Replace if dirty, discolored or contaminated.
48,000 Miles (80,000 km) or 48 Months
Maintenance Service Schedule
❏ Change the rear axle fluid if using your vehicle for
any of the following: police, taxi, fleet, or frequent trailer towing.
❏ Change the manual transmission fluid (if equipped)
if using your vehicle for any of the following:
❏ Most of your driving is at sustained high speeds
during hot weather, above 90°F (32°C), driving in dusty conditions, or stop and
go driving.
Changing rear fluid is somewhat subjective after the 36,000 mile visual check.
If you have changed your manual transmission fluid at this time, I
would also recommend changing the rear end fluid as well to synchronize events,
since wear and tear on the manual transmission will be similar to the wear and
tear on the rear end (pinion, gears, bearings, etc.) But in the end, visual
inspection will determine if change is immediately required.
Recommend
fluid is 75w140 gear oil, either Amsoil SG 75w140 or Redline GL-5 75w140 since the stock
factory lubricant oil doesn't seem to hold up.
Here is a link to Amsoil lubricants.
http://www.amsoil.com/a/synthetic-gear-oil
RBZ Radio loading
multiple CD's issue and GraceNotes (courtesy RTFun)
Anyone
with the Model RBZ 430 Radio (including the ones with
NAV) should check to see if they also have this issue
I
am having this EXACT same issue with my RBZ
radio. To expand a little bit:
Problems loading
multiple CD's
- First 8 or 9 CDs -No issue with album art, everything displays correctly.
- CDs 10-15 (give or take) - No album art at all (shows ♫ the music note)
- CDs 16 and above - Shows album art for the CD's in range 10-15. Meaning, 16th
CD
put in shows the album art for CD #10.
17th CD shows the album art for CD #11.
Very strange. But, there is a solution
for the problem above.
Solution is Travel Link Update Software
First
off, anyone with the model 430 radio (including the ones with NAV) should check
to see if they have this issue - many will find they do.
The solution is an update DVD that most dealers have.
The
DVD is called "Travel Link Update"
and even though the RBZ 430 radio
doesn't use Travel Link, this same DVD also has the fix for the
GraceNotes recognition error - so ask the dealer to
install it.
The update disc
part number is 68141133AA.
This
information is from the radio manufacturer support to May 23, 2011.
[From RTFun]
Yes
this update did fix my radio. Check you radio system setup screen that shows
the S/N's and look for a number that reads 20.02.01.
If you have it, you need this update. It turns out the update is a CD - not a
DVD like I was told. The disk says it is for a Travel Link update
(which is for Nav units) but it is for both radios -
it just has specific updates for NAV Radios too.
To install it - back out of the garage. Start the engine and leave it running.
Insert the update CD and wait. There are some long delays
where it seems to have hung - just leave it along. It will ask you if you want
to update from 20.02.01 to 23.04.41, Press the OK button
then let it do its thing. It will take about 10 minutes. During that time, the
radio will shut off turn on - do nothing, and update.
The
next two updates are for NAV units - you will not be offered the choice to do
them. The fourth update will let you do it - the instructions
on the CD label say to press cancel and to not install that update. I followed
the instructions.
This is only for radios with Software version older than 23.04.41. I have
loaded a lot of CDs so far and almost all work, but there are some
that don't show the graphic and a few that show the wrong graphic. I think the
database has errors. The newest CD I put in was dated 2002.
The oldest 1982. If you put in a brand new CD, it won't show the artwork until
the next Gracenote update for the radio - which
you'll have to
ask Chrysler about if interested. I don't know how often they release them.
FAQ:
Q: yep,
mine is 20.02.1. Where did you get the
disk? From the dealer? I've read people saying the dealers will charge you
labor to install.
I just want to get the disk myself.
A: Any Chrysler, Dodge and
Jeep dealer parts dept will sell the disk - just bring the part number with you
(and $40.00)
MyGig NAV
Screen "AutoMode" (via
Vin57)
So I was driving the car the other night and realized that the NAV
screen wasn't in night mode. I went into
the menu and checked the setting it was set for "Automode",
but it hasn't changed. I pressed on night mode and the screen changed, pressed
back to "auto mode" and it just went bright or "daytime
mode".
So now I figure great, what’s wrong with my radio? I thought why not try the dash dimmer
control? Well that was the appropriate
fix.
Parade Mode:
Basically, if you rotate the light control all the way up into the
first click, (second click turns the overhead lights on) its
what they call "Parade Mode" it max's out the brightness of the dash
and apparently overrides the "AutoMode" feature on the MyGig
radio.
So if you like your dash bright and still want the night screen on
the MyGig just rotate the dial till just before the first click and the Automode setting on the MyGig
will still function and your dash lights will still be bright. See also: Tip:24 Dash and Panel Lights Parade Mode (and other dimmer features)
New Product: High Performance NAG1 Transmission Kit
Paramount
Performance is proud to announce the release of its newest product:
High Performance NAG1 Transmission Kit
Paramount
has already sold over a dozen of these with great success.
Some of the competitors at LX and Beyond are currently running very well with
this transmission upgrade.
This kit was the number one request of Builder Bill at LX & Beyond.
The Kit is designed for
The NAG1
Transmission Kit is meant to be professionally installed. It is NOT a “do it
yourself” kit.
We do have these IN STOCK for immediate shipment.
High
performance NAG1 transmission Includes:
Visit
the Product Page for more information: High Performance NAG1 Transmission Kit
FAQ's
Q: May be a silly
question, but for a 3.5L NAG1 like I have, would this kit work for me if,
say, I was to put in a larger motor? |
||
A:
I just built an upgraded 3.5L NAG1 for a guy. You only need 2 additional pieces
(which I stock) and you have a High Performance NAG1!
550rwd top end hp limit is because the main issue with Jeeps is their weight
(HEAVY) and their transfer case is much different than yours. No biggie.
NAG1 Fill Levels
Critical?
On
filling and checking the NAG1, oh yes, they are VERY sensitive to the correct
fluid level.
Too little and you create foam by sucking air into the fluid, too much and the
fluid gets into the rotating assembly and foams the fluid.
Obviously,
foamy is a bad thing as it compresses where transmission fluid is
non-compressible.
Dodge
Challenger Body Repair Manual
For those
individuals who may be interested in the in's and
outs of Dodge Challenger Body Repair work, here are site links below;
http://www.muebooks.com/dodge-challenger-amp-plymouth-sapporo-automotive-repair-manual-PDF-3493663/
Or this link
Repair
Connection Body Repair Dodge Challenger
Dodge Challenger Custom Leather Interior Upholstery Upgrade kit
This vendor provides complete replacement leather quality kits for both
front and rear seating in our Challengers!
Upgrade your 2008 - 2011 Dodge Challenger factory cloth
interior to brand new Leather with LeatherSeats.com. This kit was built in
single-tone Red leather with contrasting grey double-stitching. Whether you
have factory cloth or a fully loaded SRT8 with factory leather,
LeatherSeats.com has the package for you. This LeatherSeats.com leather trimmed
interior kit includes everything you need for replacing all of your factory
cloth on both the front and rear seats.
For more information
or free leather samples call TOLL FREE 1-866-NEWSEAT!!
Here is a
video showing their products! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUjQF6m-LwE
Want custom
seating leather?
Go to
www.LeatherSeats.com
How to wire AUTO ON heated seats when remote started
Thanks
to[jjar277260]
for posting his solution.
For those in very COLD climates, you can appreciate the interior seats getting
heated when remote starting your Challenger!
You know you will like this when you jump in the vehicle and find nice warm
seats waiting for you.
To
do this you will need the following;
1 small SPST toggle switch,
3 - 12VDC SPDT relays ,
2 - 10K ohm resistors,
3 - small diodes and
2 - 1K micro-farad capacitors
They come on when remote started if the switch on closed and
the seats stay off if the key is used to start the car.
The circuit feeds a momentary ground signal to the heated seat switches during
engine cranking to simulate you
pressing the switch manually.
Now, when starting the car with the key the run
start output energizes the center relay to kill the ground in the momentary
circuits.
Note the following pins
to tap into are;
PIN 29 of connector C102
PIN 23 of connector C3
(TIPM)
PIN 3 of LH heated seat
switch
PIN 3 of RH heated seat
switch
For those who already
know electrical, you can purchase all the required parts at your local Radio
Shack and mount the 12VDC control relays on the available printed circuit
boards (#276-150) as well.
Connector (C102)
TIPM Module
TIPM connector (C3)
Tip:192
What is MOPAR?
The Evolution of a
Trademark.
In the spring of 1937, this activities council was
working on the creation of a product name to put on cans of Chrysler Motor
Parts antifreeze that was being used in their cars. The group, after many
suggestions, came up with a simple name that would be easy to remember: a
combination of the words Motors and
Parts hence the word... MOPAR.
Read
more at this link: http://www.turbinecar.com/mopar-history.htm
Oil fill and overflow warning!
There seems to be a little oil
fill characteristic that is showing up more and more these days as service
tech's at dealers, oil change shops and even those industrious Challenger
owners who want to do their own oil changes. We all know about the super tight
oil filters placed on our vehicles at the factory, but if you don't watch out
and be careful, you will also see another oil "issue". This occurs
when FILLING the engine after draining.
Note the OIL FILL cap and entry
point to pour fresh oil. This picture below shows a RED cap on the oil filler
tube, right behind the throttle body assembly. Not the red cap on the plastic
radiator overflow tank.
NOTE the vent tube going on
over to the air filter from the same vicinity. If you dump the oil into the
filler hole to fast or quickly, an air bubble will occur beneath the oil stream
and oil will be forced over into the vent tube running into the air filter or
CAI. Many owners have realized this in finding oil in their air filter boxes
but do not realize how the heck it got over there. This is especially true if
you buy oil in bulk (like a big 5 QT. jug) and dump one end of the jug into the
oil filler tube opening, there is a very good chance you will have a fill
(speed) issue and dump some oil over into the air filter.
Here
is a picture (thanks to Peelin') to show the oil cap
(filler) and vent tube relationship.
Again note the OIL FILLER CAP fill opening and (just below) the vent return
line running over into the CAI filter box.
In
short, take your sweet time about filling the 7 quarts of new oil going into
the engine, to avoid any overflow issues.
SRT Front Springs
on R/T
I
did this suspension modification early on within just a few months of
purchasing my 2009 R/T (Auto).
I did not like the ride height on the front end and the fast cornering was a
tad sloppy for me, so I purchased a
pair of new SRT-8 front springs (part # 5181354AA) and I paid about $90.00 for a pair.
I
had these installed at my dealership at the same time as I was having a
HOTCHKIS sway-bar kit installed as well.
Hotchkis 22107 - (Hotchkis
Performance Sway Bar Kit)
The
combination of SRT front springs lowered the front end about 1 - 1/4in and the
front/rear sway bar kit really tightened up the corning well.
The
front end is noticeably stiffer and taking a corner at speed is much more
stable and tighter. I think this should
have come from the factory
like this, but I know everyone's taste is different in ride and quality.
If
I had a personal suggestion for anyone wanting to do this, the springs are all
you need, the mechanic will have to do a front end alignment afterwards, and my
mechanic who did the alignment said that dropping the front end 1+ inches did
require a re-alignment but I had enough link adjustment left to bring it into
spec.
If
I had an even stronger suggestion for anyone going to do this, get the Hotchkis
Performance Sway Bar kit and have this done at the same time!
The vehicle
will drive like a totally (better) vehicle. You do not need SRT rear springs as
these are the same (height) as the R/T rear springs.
Only the front springs are different (lower/heavier), as the rears are the same
height but about 6% less rate.
Here is a FAQ about the SRT spring change out.
SRT front springs on
RT
Q: I've seen several people do this and I love the look.
Thinking about doing it I'm just worried about the life of the shocks.
Several post have said it will
reduce the life of the shocks, is this true? How is the ride quality after?
I have some bumpy roads on the way
to work. Can the SRT shocks be installed with the springs?
What is the part # for SRT springs?
A: SRT-8 front springs part number is 5181354AA. (about
$95.00 pr. depending on source). It WILL NOT
reduce the life of the shocks.
Ride quality is excellent, firm but
not awful. This is a great, easy, relatively inexpensive mod. Go for it!
__________________
Q: Does anyone know where I could get the springs installed in the DFW area? I asked the dealer and they will not do it.
A: Try a different dealer. Sounds like the one you have is not mod-friendly, which could be bad.
Either that or a brake/suspension shop. Around here we have
full service tire shops that do all kinds of suspension, brakes and exhaust
work.
I had no problem finding shops that wanted to do it. The local Dodge dealer
didn’t snivel a bit. They just want the work.
__________________
Just learned that the rear R/T and the rear SRT springs are
the same spring height, so only the front springs are different.
This will work if you want to only lower the front and not the rear. So, if you
want to drop the whole car 1.7 inches, don’t go the SRT route.
The dealer just called and will be removing the already installed SRT springs
and putting back in the R/T stock springs.
__________________
SE and R/T auto share the same spring in the rear and the R/T manual is 6% less and the SRT is a whole lot more.
2009 Dodge Challenger - Suspension Turning and Challenger Versus Mustang Comparison - Features - Motor Trend
Article also says the SRT runs a whole bunch more jounce and rebound. so I highly doubt that you will get the "same" performance from just changing springs
alone. But, for those with the R/T and you want to lower that front end, give the vehicle a slight old school "rake look", add a larger rear tire and viola, you
have a different look as well!
Tip:195
Hotchkis 22107 - Hotchkis Performance Sway Bar Kit
Improve the cornering
and straight line performance. Larger sway bars
will control body roll in the corners and plant the car in the straights.
All are finished in a gloss black powder coat and
come complete with polyurethane bushings and endlinks
(exc. Corvette).
Sway Bar Kits
Enhance the
cornering performance of your Challenger with a set of Hotchkis Sport
Suspension sport sway bars. The Hotchkis sport sway bar package increases
front/rear roll stiffness giving the car crisp, quick turn-in response and
balanced handling.
As delivered the
Challenger has excessive under steer and limited roll control. Sport sway bars
give the driver the ability to rotate the car on corner entry and steer with
the throttle when necessary. The dreaded under steer is eliminated and the
handling becomes comfortably neutral with added traction during cornering.
Hotchkis Sport
Suspension Sway Bars feature a durable powder coat finish, polyurethane
bushings, and special, greasable rear brackets.
Link: http://www.jegs.com/i/Hotchkis/515/22107/10002/-1
BLUE LED Foot well
Lighting
TJGS writes;
Underneath
both seats you will find a grey colored connector. It is mounted under the seat with a slide
lock clip. The cable coming out of the floor and going to it will be the one to
disconnect. You will find a skinny strip
in the center to push inward and this will release the connector. You will know you have the correct one if the
lamp in the seat back goes out.
You are looking for a yellow wire with a white stripe. This is the positive of the seat back lamp.
Now this is where it gets tricky, they have an early, late model wire
coding.
Basically
you are looking for a black, black with white stripe or black with orange
stripe wire. This will be the negative
wire. You may even find two black wires,
use the black with orange stripe if you do.
Before you splice, take the lights you are going to install and verify by
plugging them into the connector. Positive lead to yellow with white stripe and
negative lead into the black or black with stripe to make sure it lights.
My method of "tap" splicing is to take a razor blade and shave the
insulation all around without "breaking" the wire. I then solder the
connection and insulate it with tape.
LED
Strips or Sticks?
Vendor
LINK: http://www.xoxide.com/led-sunlight-stick-blue.html
These
hard units are 12 inches long and
contain 18 LED's. They do come in 6 inches and 4 inches by other companies. You
can buy them in flexible tubing or rigid tubing.
I used the rigid so I could mount and tie wrap them to the existing cable
running in front of the seats.
These are 12vdc and are found on computer many "modding"
sites. They are called bright sticks, meteor lights, sun lights, laser strips
but are all the basically the same.
I mounted them at a downward angle of 15-18 degrees. The blue projected on the
black carpet gives it a purple effect. Not too dim and not too bright, just
right. IMO.
For
folks that like red LED's!
Tip:197
National Geographic Channel Dodge
Challenger MegaFactory Documentary
Note: if a link has been
discontinued or is no longer available on YouTube.com you then can see if the
video has been
upgraded as (for example) going to a HD video by using the "Search"
feature on YouTube and looking for keywords
like,
"MegaFactory Dodge Challenger", "Dodge
Challenger Factories" or "Megafactories
Challenger", etc.
National Geographic Channel MegaFactories!
Videos and others:
Tip:198
Dodge
Challenger (Classic) Freedom Commercials and its making
Note: if a link has been
discontinued or is no longer available on YouTube.com you then can see if the
video has been
upgraded as (for example) going to a HD video by using the "Search"
feature on YouTube and looking for keywords
like,
"Dodge Challenger Commercial", "Dodge Challenger Freedom"
or "Challenger Commercial", etc.
[HD]
Dodge Challenger - George Washington "Freedom" American Revolutionary
War Ad (0:34)
Dodge Channels
Challenger Keyless Enter-N-Go Video Documentary
Note: if a link has been
discontinued or is no longer available on YouTube.com you then can see if the
video has been
upgraded as (for example) going to a HD or other video by using the "Search"
feature on YouTube and looking for
keywords like, "Dodge
Challenger Keyless Enter-N-Go", "Dodge Challenger Keyless Entry"
or "Challenger Keyless Go", etc.
2012 Dodge Challenger Keyless
Enter-N-Go system
2013 Dodge Challenger Keyless
Enter-N-Go System
NOTE:
Once
is all you need to press the START
button to kill the engine. Many owners
forget this and press the START button
to kill the engine more than one time and can inadvertently place the
START/STOP switch in the IGNITION ON
position, this
will run the battery down if left on unintentionally.
So,
look at the instrument cluster to see IGNITION state upon leaving vehicle, especially
if you hear a CHIME sound when
opening the door to exit.
Dodge Challenger HomeLink System Documentary
Dodge
Channel’s documentary on the HomeLink System and its
programming features.
Note: if a link has been
discontinued or is no longer available on YouTube.com you then can see if the
video has been
upgraded as (for example) going to a HD or other video by using the
"Search" feature on YouTube and looking for
keywords like, "Dodge
Challenger HomeLink", etc.
Dodge Challenger HomeLink (2011)
Dodge Challenger HomeLink (2012)
Dodge Challenger HomeLink (2013)
Tip:201
Is it possible to add the 'KeyLess GO' System to an R/T?
Normally
this is NOT a dealer installed "option" as it is time
consuming, and a tad expensive as you are going to have to purchase a lot of
equipment that comes with the system to have it fully functional. Most have absolutely no idea what is
involved, and frankly this, although possible, is quite involved.
For
those who have a very knowledgeable Dodge Service Tech, he will recognize and
know that can and cannot be done but some hardware and software need to be
installed before you can have a working system.
The link below details all the ins and outs of doing this KEYLESS-GO
installation. Some Tech's like a good
challenge!
To
detail this, go to this link below for more information; http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/Add_Keyless_GO.htm
Tip:202
Rear Taillight bulb replacement procedures
For
those who have a problem with how to replace a rear taillight bulb (3157KR)
this will assist in stepping you through the disassembly procedure that many
have a problem with.
I would have liked to have seen a basic procedure listed in the Challenger
Owner's Manual, but alas there is nothing there to point you in the right
direction.
Click
on the next link listed below to see what you need to do to replace either rear
brakelight bulbs or get to those pesky tough to get
parking light bulbs in the rear center bar.
http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/rear_taillight_removal.htm
Installing larger rear rubber on your R/T!
I was not very happy with
the skinny tires and look on my new 2009 Challenger R/T at all.
I wanted more of an "old
school" look so I looked at what others had done and what look I
wanted after I lowered the front end with the SRT Spring setup (approx. 1.25
in).
I wanted to get an old
school "rake" or a staggered look and I believe I have exactly what I
was looking for now with the NITTO 555 size tires on the rear!
Here is the link: http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/BiggerRearTires_RT.htm
Tip:204
FOBIK (Key Fob) disassembly, battery change.
There
may come a time where you will need to change FOBIK battery or disassembly the
unit for cleaning or troubleshooting.
Here is a good link to assist you with this task.
http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/FOBIK_DISASSEMBLE.htm
For those that would like a step-by-step video to do this,
click this link below:
Tip:205
Custom Embroidered
Headrests, etc.
Jina's a real class act on doing custom
headrest, console, rear console, etc. embroidery.
Here is her email address for quotes: jinasse@sbcglobal.net
Link to picture album of many samples of her custom work: http://s135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ock%20Designs/
Link to Jina's Embroidery FaceBook
page: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Jinas-Sew-Simple-Embroidery/164418110288530?sk=info
I can personally attest to the "quality and great look" of her work as I had the headrests above done by her and was very pleased with the work.
Possible fuel/saddle tank level issue? Troubleshooting!
Quote:
James;
|
Tip
207
Throttle Body, maintenance and cleaning issues.
Good Mobil oil link to save for cleaning TB’s. Procedures, operations, proper cleaning fluids and great details for those do-it-yourselvers.
http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/motoroil/car_care/diy/cleaning_engine_throttle_bodies.aspx
Tip
208
Keyless Entry System Exposed
Here is a link below to a page especially
setup to index all the tips concerning the Dodge Challenger Keyless Go
System.
There have been some updates and changes to this system with the new Dodge Keyless
Enter'n Go system, which added
the touch sensors on the door handles to open the door if touched AND you have
your FOBIK on your person. Same for
the trunk open features.
There have been a number of issues with
this NEW Keyless Enter'n Go system and water
entry into door handles and erratic operations.
Note these fixes are addressed in TSB's released to address this issue. See also the Dodge Challenger TSB page index (Tip:153) to
note
these repair items.
Keyless
Entry System Exposed Link
Tip:209
Vehicle Theft
Security System (VTSS) will not reset when activated?
Scenario:
My wife went in the
garage to grab some stuff inside the car, she opened the door with windows down
and alarm sounded.
She didn't have the FOB with her. Then i grabbed the
FOB and pressed every button on there from unlock, lock ,remotely
starting the car x2 , panic ... Nothing was working. What button do you press because i am reading the manual and it says
to use the key and put it in the
ignition to turn off the alarm but i would like to
turn off the alarm from a distance .
Orangepearlrtsteve
writes:
I tried what you described, and
my alarm shut off when I pressed the Unlock Button on the key FOB. The
Instruction Manual states:
Vehicles
Equipped With Keyless Enter-N-Go
Either press the UNLOCK button on the RKE transmitter, pull on the front driver
or passenger door handle (refer to “Keyless Enter-N-Go”
in “Things To Know Before Starting Your Vehicle” for further information) with
a valid key fob in range, -or- press the Keyless Enter-N-Go
Start/Stop button (requires at least one valid Key Fob in the vehicle), or
insert a valid Key Fob into the ignition switch (if the Start/Stop
button is removed) and rotate it to the ON/RUN position.
Remove Glove Box
bin to access PEM module
GLOVE BOX REMOVAL
1. Open the glove box bin (1).
2. Push in on both sides of the glove box bin to disengage the
glove box stops (2) and lower the bin.
3. Pivot the glove box bin
downward and disengage the glove box hinge hooks (3) from the instrument panel
hinge brackets (4) located at each end of the bin.
4. Turn the glove box bin
(1) sideways and remove the support strap and retainer assembly (2) from the
outboard end of the bin.
5. |
Remove the glove box bin from the vehicle. |
Performance "Chip" Scams and
Consumer Fraud
Due to the size and scope of this problem
now, I have created a webpage addressing this very issue.
Please look at the following user documentaries,
technical write up and warnings on this particular ongoing scam.
Sensors, Gas Engine, location and
part numbers
Q: Where is the location of the water
temperature sensor, mine is reading erratic.
Take
a look at this sensor listing link below and note the location of item #1 on
top of the water pump.
Click on the FULL SIZE picture and this is for all 2009 model HEMI V8. I don't
think Chrysler would
relocate the sensors from year to year model on the same engines.
Also, I would take some contact cleaner and clean the connector up before I
actually replaced the sensor, in case it is just a pin/connection problem....
Sensors,
Gas Engine
5.7L
[EZC,EZD,EZH] 6.1L [ESF]
Removal of Center
Tail Light
Many
folks as this question but it needs to be specific as to WHAT center light you are talking about. There is the Center High Mounted Tail Light (CHMTL), also known as the 3rd. Brake
light and there is the center taillight assembly in the middle of the trunk
rear deck. Below are instructions for removal of either.
CENTER TAIL LIGHT
REMOVAL (Rear Deck)
1. Remove the two side panels by pulling down on
them (the black plastic covers on the end of the taillight)
2. Remove the 2 T-20 Torx
screws. One at each end. They are about
2" inboard of the Philips screws.
Do not remove the Philips screws.
3. Remove 4 wing nuts from the back side of the light.
4. Remove 2 push pins (black plastic) on the
bottom.
Pull the light
away from the trunk lid. It will be very tight and you may have to very
carefully jerk it to break it loose.
5. Unplug the connector.
3rd. Brake light or
Center High Mounted Tail Light (CHMTL) removal.
You
must pull down with some force on the cover attached to the headliner and then
the center high mounted tail
light lens- BUT- do not lose the
"clips" as most Tint Shops will do!
High quality
interior dash kits
Basic Interior Dash Kit by Remin®. Using the latest technology, this product is made
right here in the USA.
Remin dash kits are available in various trim
finishes including real wood and wood grain, aluminum, and carbon fiber, real
and synthetic.
No other dash kit brand gives you the wide range of choices provided by Remin. Enter your
Challenger model year here
for full selections.
Capture your vehicle's inner beauty with a custom
interior dash kit. Here is a link to a 2009 model Challenger:
http://www.carid.com/2009-dodge-challenger-wood-grain-dash-kits/item-308693.html
Tip:215
Restoring Black Plastic/Vinyl Trim
Q:
The black plastic trim that wraps around our tail lights is faded on my 09 RT.
I'm not sure what caused this but it's faded bad.
I'm thinking about painting it one day
very soon and just wanted to know if anyone's done this and how to go about it?
A:
Restore it, do not paint it.
There
are a number of good products below that are simple to apply and last quite
awhile before requiring re-application. Just click
on the following links to be taken to a product description and sales page.
1.
Mother's/Back
to Black trim restorer
2. Black
WOW
3. Meguiar's G15812 Ultimate Black Plastic Restorer
4. MEDS
ReNu Finish RF175 Automotive Trim
Restorer/Restoration
5. Blue
Magic's NA647 Black Again Exterior Trim Detailer
6. Turtle
Wax T-125 Premium Grade Trim Restorer
Depending on the chemical composition of
your trim and spoiler plastic or vinyl, the above top products may vary
slightly in their
performance but all are good to try and see what works best for your vehicle.
Tip:216
Option Codes/Build Sheet for your Challenger
Q: Is there an option label on my 2010
Dodge Challenger?
How do I tell what options it was
built with?
A: You can contact Dodge through their
website and they will sent you the option list for my car.
Just filled out the form asking for
the options that my car was built with.
Here's the link
used:
Tip:217
Electrical wiring diagrams and wire colors
For those DIY'ers,
you may find this website useful if you want to tackle repairs or something
yourself:
https://techauthorityonlinedemo.extr...ew/classic.htm
Enter your year, make, and model and it will give you wire colors for
pretty much every module in the car.
Tip:218
Dodge Challenger Uconnect Internet (WiFi) for Vehicle
Turn your vehicle into a Wi-Fi hotspot with
Uconnect web. It allows every passenger in your
vehicle to harness
the power and entertainment value of the Internet at the same time.
Subscription is required and is sold separately.
View
installation instructions: here.
See more at: http://moparonlineparts.com/dodge-challenger-uconnect-internet-vehicle-p-3479.html#sthash.fRBbGFQ6.dpuf
VEHICLE STORAGE
If you are leaving your vehicle dormant for more than 21 days,
you may want to take these steps to protect your battery.
• Disconnect the negative cable from the
battery.
• Anytime you store your vehicle, or keep it
out of service (i.e., vacation) for two weeks or more, run the air conditioning
system at idle for about five minutes
in the fresh air and high blower setting. This will ensure adequate system
lubrication to minimize the possibility of compressor damage when the system is
started again.
This info can be found on pg. 425 of the 2011 Challenger
owner's manual.
For other related tips on reducing battery IOD load (Ignition Off Draw) look at these other great tips below;
Tip:165 PDC - Ignition Off Draw Fuse and usage
Tip:156
Battery Maintenance and short/Long term vehicle storage
I strongly recommend tip for using the Battery
"Tender" Jr. to keep the battery at peak charge, especially during
cold weather which has more effect on battery charge.
Tip:220
Aftermarket Remote Start System
Omegalink Plug & Play Remote Start Systems from Omega R & D
Looks like these units "T" into the vehicles CANBUS
harness off the WIN module. These remote start
solutions for select BMW, Chrysler, Ford, GM, and Mercedes vehicles include
plug-in T-harnesses and flashable modules that make
for simple plug-n-play remote start installations. These kits utilize factory
style connectors integrating the module into the vehicle without compromising
any factory wiring. This saves install time, increases reliability, and
removes guess work for the installer. |
Blinking Defrost
Light Possible Fix
Here is some info from a Challenger owner (Nuke) who found a solution for his "blinking Defrost Light" problem.
I had the blinking
defrost light issue a while back, and I couldn't find much info on it or how to
fix it, so I just
lived with it until it eventually went away. It was during the summer though,
and every second I would sit in the
car waiting for A/C to kick in after it had been baking in the Texas summer sun
was shear torture...so I made a
mental note of it for sure!
Fast forward to two days ago, and it happened again. The only thing I had done
prior to that was briefly unhook
the battery (just like I've done a thousand times before though), but I did
notice that while it was blinking, the
climate controls were not at their default/off positions like I usually put
them to when parking the car -
blower: off, temperature: blue dot, and
blend: notch above auto (upper vent?).
So as a shot in the dark, I turned all the knobs to
their default/off positions described above, unhooked the
battery again, reconnected it after a bit, and then started the car to test my
theory.
SUCCESS!!
No more blinking defrost light; the climate control was back to instantly
responding to any changes I made to
the knobs right after I start the car. WOOHOO!!!
I guess it is some kind of calibration issue...so if
you have this happen to you, before you take into the dealership
to have them perform their magic, try
disconnecting negative battery cable, setting climate control knobs to their
default/off positions, and reconnecting battery cable...and if it
works, you owe me a beer. <Nuke>
3157 vs 3157CK bulb and
socket
Why
are T25 wedge based bulb sockets wired different? Depending on vehicle, model year and whether
or
not you are using a standard or long life (3157LL) or 3157CK, you will need to
understand what three
wire
socket you have and what you are trying to plug into it. Generally, the incandescent type bulb is
not
going to give you a problem (like a short circuit) and either will work
correctly or won't. However,
in
trying to use a LED replacement type bulb and using the wrong type of socket,
well you might see
the
LED bulb go up in smoke.
Below
is a link to give details on the bulb and socket wiring differences and
following is a video showing
how to use a 12V TEST PROBE to verify the style of wedge based bulb socket your
vehicle has.
Note:
Some vehicles use a 3157CK in the front and a standard 3157 bulb in the rear,
so this can be confusing to some.
Test
your socket before installing 3157 replacements
Also
here, a sample test video
using simple test probe to verify what "type" socket you have.
Challenger windows
freezing up in winter.
There have been a number of owners who have been unsuccessful in finding
a "good solution" for their windows freezing up in the winter and the
"auto drop" window feature is failing and the doors will not close properly. Here below is the question posed and some
excellent solution answers.
Q:
OK. I have a 2014 R/T Classic and
when the temperature drops to freezing my windows are sticking. When I open the doors the windows do not drop
so when you go to shut the doors, they just bounce right back at you. I figured
out that if I break the ice between the window and outside seal, the window
will now drop properly and the door will shut. Has anyone else had this issue?
The dealership has no clue how to fix the issue.
A:
Easy fix for this is to buy “Prestone De-Icer” at the local auto parts store.
Spray this on the bottom 2-3 inches of your window. The roll the window down
halfway, then up halfway, and repeat 2-3 times. This will ensure good coating
all over everything that moves. Living
up north Detroit, Michigan I have to park my car outside. It gets down into the
teens and 20's overnight on a regular basis. Some mornings my windows were stuck and I had to wait until it warmed up to
move them. Got clued in on the Prestone De-Icer stuff and ever since then no issues. It's in a yellow
can, either a spray can with a ice scraper attached or a spray bottle. Either
one works fine. Have not had a stuck window in over a year now. This stuff simply works great!
Also
another solution:
A:
From Curt D. in New England:
I
take a little-used credit card, and wedge a corner between the seal and window,
forward by the side mirror, then run the card along the bottom towards the
back.
This breaks the frozen seal, and allows the window to drop when opening the
door. Works every time.
Classic
Challenger Script Grill Emblem
For
those interested the 2014 Challenger has a Script Classic Script
"Challenger" Grille emblem under
Part Number 68214446AA price list of $36.00
Now these will be just like factory and snap into anyplace on grille you like.
30 Minute dash Removal
The
following weblink will provide pictures and
information provided by Mochoco on a basic "How-to" on late
model Dodge Challenger Dash removal.
Note the warning and how this gent does the total dash removal in
good time.
Tip:226
REAR SEAT
REMOVAL
Bottom Cushion
1. Carefully pull up on the front of the seat about six inches
from ends, disengaging the seat retainers.
2. Lift up on front of seat and pull seat cushion towards the
front of the vehicle.
3. Remove the seat cushion from the vehicle.
Back Cushion
1. Fold both seat backs to full down position.
2. Remove the outboard fastener on the 40 split seat back.
3. Pull the outboard side of the 40 split seat back out and
slide the inboard side off from guide post.
4. Remove the 40 split seat back from the vehicle.
5. Remove the outboard and inboard mounting fasteners from the
60 split seat back.
6. Remove the 60 split seat back from the vehicle.
Battery Removal
Q: I need to change the battery in my 2008
Challenger. I unhooked the negative and positive cables, unplugged the hose,
undid
the strap and removed the bolt in the hold down plate. Battery slides front to
back but does not want to lift up.
What am I missing? Is there something
else here I need to do?
A1: Many
batteries were placed in Challengers with the use of 3M double sticky tape on
the bottom. This was to prevent
the
battery from moving around in the trunk space making noise during hard
stops. You may have to use a small
pry-bar
to
break the battery loose from the tape adhesive.
A2: You guys are correct. It took a little effort with a small flat bar but I got it out. Seems there was some tape under it.
Isolation
of parasitic battery drain or (IOD) procedure
If your battery gets discharged overnight you have a large parasitic draw and it should be easy to find. The CANBUS will remain in active state for about 30 min's after IGNITION OFF at which time the power required from the battery will be significantly reduced (Ignition Off Draw).
I will list a
procedure with the diagnostic steps HERE
to locate and subsequently the isolation any excessive (IOD) battery current draw.
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Last updated: 08/23/2014
M.W. Davis
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