Imagine arriving at a dinner party with a bottle of something produced in Oregon, but it’s not wine. You stand out when you present your host with a bottle of extra virgin olive oil. Ten years ago, this wouldn’t have been an option, but today with at least 15 olive growers in Oregon, the momentum is building for this specialty crop.
So why now? The demand for extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) in the US is growing rapidly. A pioneering group of growers and producers (including the late Larry Monagon of Victory Estates in Keizer, and David Lawrence of Amity) recognized the potential of growing olives in Oregon as well as the opportunity to produce premium EVOO.
“Oregon olive growers and producers are following a path similar to that taken by pinot noir winemakers 40 years ago,” says Bogdan Caceu of the Willamette Valley’s La Creole Orchards and Executive Director of Olive Growers of Oregon.
“Why make Oregon olive oil? Because we can, because it’s a great product, and it’s healthy,” says Caceu.
Oregon olive oil may also offer unique characteristics such as higher levels of antioxidants with a richer, more intense flavor due to olives grown in a cooler climate.
Approximately 15 varietals are grown over roughly 50 acres now, primarily in the Willamette Valley, but a big question remains of which varietals are best suited to the cooler climate. Freezing temperatures are the biggest threat to Oregon olive trees, but Caceu believes that varietals grown in Northern Italy and higher altitudes in France may also work well in Oregon. After a serious freeze event in Oregon in 2013, growers began propagating starts to try to replicate the best individual varietals from those that survived. Paul Durant, co-owner of the Oregon Olive Mill at Red Ridge Farms in Dayton, is one of those growers. Red Ridge Farms has approximately 17 acres of olive trees in two locations where they lost trees due to low temperatures in 2013. Even though root systems often survive a freeze, it’s a serious setback, as trees take four years to start producing again. Durant said cold-tolerant trees don’t yield as much oil per pound of olives as those from warmer climates, but the oil is “special and so unique.”
Despite the challenges, growers have carried on and continue to learn and improve. In its ninth year of business, the Oregon Olive Mill is having success with several varietals. While the mill continues to build its own olive production, a portion of the olives are sourced from California producers. Arbequina, Koroneiki, and Frantoio varietals were all showcased at the annual Olio Nuovo (new oil) Festival at Red Ridge Farms. Olio nuovo is the freshest form of EVOO and is noticeably different due to the fine organic particulates that remain in the oil, giving it a cloudy appearance. This unfiltered form also adds vibrancy and richness to the texture and taste of the oil. Durant spoke about the festival and his hope for sharing his love of olive oil with others.
“We want consumers to know about the variation in taste, the history, and the emotional connection to olive oil. We want people to understand the reasoning and the ‘why’ behind what we do.”
Durant says his primary focus is on making delicious olive oil, followed by educating consumers on what makes a good olive oil and how to use it to enhance the flavor of food.
Caceu shares this passion for Oregon olive oil and was recently awarded a Specialty Crop Block Grant from the Oregon Department of Agriculture for an Oregon EVOO awareness campaign. Caceu grows nearly 6 acres of olives at La Creole Orchards and believes in Oregon’s potential to become a producer of ultra-premium EVOO, locally sourced, from small growers. This is in contrast to most of the olive oil currently in the market, which comes from larger competitors and industrial farms in California, Italy, and Spain. The grant money will be used for a variety of projects, including market research and outreach events intended to increase awareness and sales of Oregon olive oil. Caceu hopes an increase in demand will also encourage more people to grow olives. “You don’t need a large amount of acreage to get a high-quality product. It would benefit everyone to have more growers and more acreage.”
You can learn more about the Oregon Olive Mill and purchase EVOO online at: redridgefarms.com and in Whole Foods Markets in Portland and Seattle. See photos from Oregon Olive Growers online at: instagram.com/olivegrowers
Excerpt from the Agriculture Quarterly winter edition 2017 — Sign up to receive the Agriculture Quarterly via email