Amazing Graça: A neighbourhood guide

If you’re looking for a local Lisbon neighbourhood to explore, I would suggest taking a look at Graça. It’s got cool street art, local restaurants, and the city’s best views!

Written by Michael Turtle

Michael Turtle is the founder of Time Travel Turtle. A journalist for more than 20 years, he's been travelling the world since 2011.

Michael Turtle is the founder of Time Travel Turtle and has been travelling full time for a decade.

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A guide to Lisbon’s Graça neighbourhood

If you’re looking for the best neighbourhoods in Lisbon, consider exploring the authentic area of Graça for local food, cool street art, and the best views of Lisbon.

The waiter, standing outside the restaurant having a smoke, waves at me as I walk past. We stop for a chat and he asks me when I’ll be coming back for another meal. Tomorrow sounds good… I’ve not got much planned.

This is what it is to learn about a new local neighbourhood. I think you only really know the area when you reach the point that it also knows you in return.

Viewpoint at Miradouro de Nossa Senhora do Monte, Graca, Lisbon

When you’re getting to know Lisbon, it helps to think of the city as a collection of neighbourhoods.

This isn’t just useful for navigating your way through the streets. It’s also a good way to explore the culture of Portugal’s capital because each neighbourhood has its own personality.

The main tourist areas of Lisbon are easy to identify – Baixa, Bairro Alto, Ciado and Alfama are the main ones.

But you don’t need to go far from the centre to find neighbourhoods that are authentic and relatively untouched by the impact of tourism – but still full of things to explore.

graca lisbon restaurants

I think one of the best local neighbourhoods in Lisbon is Graça.

There are some ways to explore the sights of Graça without doing it all yourself. A good way is with this great tour of alternative neighbourhoods.

If you’re interested, I would recommend having a look at one of these other special experiences:

 

It’s the kind of area where the locals sit on the street to drink their coffee, store owners stand in doorways to talk with the passers-by, and you have to constantly dodge dogs and shopping trolleys as you walk along.

Yet there’s also a young population that lives here because of lower rent prices and it’s had a bit of an impact in recent years with cool street art and some new restaurants.

Street art in Graca, Lisbon

I have spent quite a lot of time around Graça during my time in Lisbon and have put together a guide to help you explore the best things to see and do in Graça.

How to get to Graça

To get to Graça, there’s no avoiding the uphill. Graça is actually the highest point in Lisbon and no matter which direction you’re coming from, you’re going to have to head up some pretty steep slopes.

If you’re coming from the central Baixa area, the walk is only about 20 minutes or so, if you’re not too worried about the hills. You can either come the direct way up from Martim Moniz Square through Mouraria, or come the slightly longer way to the south of St George’s Castle and past Alfama.

Graca neighbourhood, Lisbon

You can also catch the Tram 28, which passes right through the centre of Graça. But, as I have written about previously, there is normally such a long queue to get on that it may not be worth it.

My recommendation is to walk up the hill because there’s quite a lot of interesting stuff to see along the way.

Once you reach Graça, you’ve got some options for how you can spend your time exploring. I’ve marked all the things I’m going to mention on this map, which you can open on your phone to help guide you around.

Best things to do in Graça

Viewpoint at Miradouro de Nossa Senhora do Monte

It’s probably no surprise that you’re going to get the best view of Lisbon from the highest point of the city.

The Miradouro de Nossa Senhora do Monte viewpoint gives you an incredible vista of St George’s Castle, down to Baixa, across to Bairro Alto and back up into the main part of Lisbon.

Viewpoint at Miradouro de Nossa Senhora do Monte, Graca, Lisbon

Viewpoint at Miradouro da Graca

The Miradouro da Graca viewpoint isn’t as high and doesn’t give you as much of a range, but it is a more pleasant location.

It’s the first viewpoint that many people reach after coming up the hill and they don’t bother to keep going, so it can be busy. But there’s a nice place to sit for a drink and have a rest.

Viewpoint at Miradouro da Graca, Lisbon

Igreja e Convento da Graça

Right next to the Miradouro da Graca viewpoint is the Church of Convent of Graça. The complex is enormous and there’s a good chance you’ve spotted the building from other parts of the city.

Igreja e Convento da Graça, Lisbon

The church is one of Lisbon’s oldest but has been restored over the years. Still, it has wonderful baroque features with detailed chapels of gilded woodwork.

The monastery is now used as military barracks but you can see one section with tiled images of Christian martyrs being killed in gory ways.

Jardim da Cerca da Graça

Down the hill from the church is a large garden, Jardim da Cerca da Graça. It has a kiosk, which is a cheap and lovely way to have a coffee or a drink.

The park is also very popular with locals around sunset, who bring their own drinks and hang out here.

Jardim da Cerca da Graça, Lisbon

Villa Berta

This is a bit of a secret site that not many people know about. This street and the old villa that stretches all along it, was built more than 100 years ago to house workers.

It was quite beautifully designed and decorated and you’ll see some wonderful wrought-iron balconies, wall paintings, and tile art.

Villa Berta, Graca, Lisbon

There are some ways to explore the sights of Graça without doing it all yourself. A good way is with this great tour of alternative neighbourhoods.

If you’re interested, I would recommend having a look at one of these other special experiences:

 

Best street art in Graça

There is street art all over Lisbon but I think there’s something special about some of the works here. The street art in Graça has some famous pieces, including one of a woman holding a gun done by Shepard Fairey (famous for the Obama ‘Hope’ work).

Street Art, Lisbon

Fairey also worked on another nearby artwork here hd painted half a face and Portuguese artist Vhils carved the other half.

Street art in Graca, Lisbon

Look out also for two works that were done by a group of artists in 2014 to pay tribute to some of Portugal’s famous literary figures.

Street art in Graca, Lisbon
Street art in Graca, Lisbon

And, if you walk up from Alfama to Graća, you may also come across a red mural about the April 25 Revolution, where the fights are depicted as famous cartoon characters.

Street art in Graca, Lisbon

I’ve marked on the map the location of all of these and some others.

You will also get a lot out of a street art tour of Lisbon and there are some awesome options here:

Best restaurants in Graça

You won’t find many of Lisbon’s famous restaurants here in Graça but I can tell you, from eating at many of them, that the neighbourhood has fantastic local cuisine. They all have at least one staff member who speaks English so you won’t have any problems ordering.

graca lisbon restaurants

Here are my tips on where to eat in Graça, with different options depending on what you’re looking for.

Cantinho Da Fatima

Only open at lunch, this is the best local experience you will have in Graça. It gets crowded with workers on their lunch break but it’s worth waiting for a table.

The set lunch gets you soup, a huge plate of meat with chips and rice, dessert, 0.5l of wine (or other drink), and a coffee… and only costs €7.50.

Penalva Da Graça

This is another nearby local restaurant that specialises in seafood. It’s open for lunch and dinner and you can get a great value meal with fresh fish or shellfish.

O Pitéu da Graça

It may look a bit more upscale but don’t let that first impression confuse you. This is a good value local family restaurant where the enormous plates of meat are cooked perfectly.

One dish will probably be too much for one person, so be prepared to share or take some leftovers with you.

Jangada Urbana

If you’re looking for something a bit lighter, then this could be a good option. It’s very close to the main viewpoint in Graça and does healthy meals and good coffee.

Damas

If there’s any indication that Graça is becoming gentrified, this restaurant is it. The hipster vibe and live music is popular and the food is great.

There’s usually only a small selection on the menu because it’s based on the availability of fresh food that day.

Best accommodation in Graça

Graça is not an area that tourists usually stay in – but that’s what makes it such an appealing neighbourhood to base yourself in.

Graca neighbourhood, Lisbon

There aren’t many hotels so you’re better off staying in one of the many apartments that are available for short-term stays.

THE BEST ACCOMMODATION IN GRAÇA

I’ve got a detailed story about where to stay in Lisbon you can read, or have a look at some of these highlights in Graça:

BACKPACKER

For an excellent backpacker option, I would suggest Sant Jordi Hostel, which is just nearby.

BUDGET

There aren’t many cheap hotels in Graça but you can often get a good price at Tings Lisbon.

APARTMENT

The best option if you’re staying a few nights is to get an apartment like Graca Patio Apartment.

LUXURY

There aren’t many actual hotels in Graça but there is a beautiful one at the bottom of the hill called 1908 Lisboa.

I understand that if you’re only in Lisbon for a short time, you may feel like you have to make the most of your stay and just see the more famous parts of the city.

However, it doesn’t take too long to have a look around Graça and I don’t think you’ll be disappointed with this little slice of local life.

17 thoughts on “Amazing Graça: A neighbourhood guide”

  1. Contrary to the opening to this article, we found Graca to be heavily touristed, filled with tourist shops and restaurants clearly aimed at tourists. It was a bit disappointing despite the nice streets and alleys. It took a while to find a tasca, which unfortunately was out of half the dishes so we found a very nice restaurant that had more local dishes, like alheira de miranda, than most in the area. It doesn’t have nice architecture and is probably a good visit early in the morning before the tourists get out.

    Reply
    • Hi Spike. Do you remember which restaurant you went to? I would love to be able to share your recommendation with readers.
      In regards to your comment about the level of tourists, I’m a bit surprised. Of course there are tourists in Graça – but nothing like the level in Baixa or Alfama or other nearby areas. I spent a month living in Graça and it was unusual to find a restaurant where more than one waiter spoke decent English. And I didn’t see any tourist shops. Honestly, I wonder whether we’re talking about exactly the same area?

      Reply
  2. Hi! Have rented a studio i Graca for two weeks. Got suddenly worried about walking around/returning at night being a woman traveling alone. Would you consider it safe? Love everything I read about the neighbourhood in your recommendation BUT there are others making me uncertain…

    Reply
    • Hi Antonia. I found Graca to be a pretty safe part of Lisbon. I had a couple of female foreign friends who lived in the area and they never had any problems on their own… but, of course, no part of the city is perfect. The good news is that taxis/ubers are really cheap in Lisbon so you’ll always be able to just get a ride home if you’re ever feeling worried at night. Have a great trip – you’ll love the city!!

      Reply
  3. Michael, This was a great blog page and just what I was needing. Thank you!! I am taking my wife and 16 year old daughter to Lisbon for a month next summer. We are trying to learn the language and are looking for good immersion trip. I am trying to decide if we want Graca or Alfama? Also a possibility would be Mouraria . Any thoughts?

    Reply
  4. Super blog…

    There aren’t many hotels so you’re better off staying in one of the many apartments that are available for short-term stays….

    Agree – but my hotel has been ther for 2 years… 10 meters from Miradouro da Senhora do Monte… and tops a lot of insider lists (BTW gallery, restaurant etc – and very popular LOL)

    The poetry Street Art Tour: https://tingslisbon.com/2016/04/01/street-art-meets-literature-a-graca-tour-in-only-20-minutes/

    Historical Botequim (In the famous Villa Sousa) is THE MOST IMPORTANT BAR/REST IN GRACA – because of Natália Correia (Poet – she is on your first Poetry Wall) –

    When you mention Graca you shoul to mention Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen – the Portugals Most important writer- she is burried next to Vasco di Garma in Patheon… And she is everywhere in Graca (On the poetry walls )

    Damas IS the most happening venue in Lx – and has been since they opened… BTW The girls behind Damas reopened Botequim years ago… so they are legends..

    What else… Portugals most popular Craft Beer 8a Colina is in Graca – they have the ONLY Beer Quiosque int the country.

    Most of the above is public stuff. Even my hotel is in the guide books – all though i told them not to..

    Alfarma is completely dead (only short term rentals – all locals has left… 🙁 Graca seems to be the phe new place to go… blogged about it here https://tingslisbon.com/2019/02/06/alfama-why-go-to-graca/

    Cheers

    Thomas

    Reply
    • I wrote the review above back in 2019. Since then things has change redically – and for the better.

      Unfortunately most of the new places to eat, meet, drink and/or just hang-out are not mentioned – and many of the places on the blog are either closed, changed owners/concepts and/or chefs that this blog has become useless. And more important – a lot of NEW places has opened. Some of them are among the best in Lisbon in their category…. Vino Vero, La Mata, Secret Garden, Onda, BomBomBom, LaDiDaDi, RD’s L’Ape, Estado de Graça, D’As Beatas to mention the most obvious ones…

      The street art has changed completely – also for the better,,,

      Sorry….

      Reply
  5. Good travel blog, tasty photos. I would definitely highly reccomend Ze de Mouraria restaurant! Spiritual experience 🙂
    Best wishes
    PJ, Poland, 4th time in Lisbon

    Reply
  6. Thank you for this great guide to this amazing Lisbon neighborhood. Your advice, local knowledge and specific recommendations are very helpful as we explore. I’m so glad I found this post. Can’t wait to experience this part of Lisbon!

    Reply
  7. Wife and I are going to Lisbon this coming October! Of course, it will be awesome. The only downside I can see at this time is the horde of tourists everywhere, with these long queues of lines, stalling things, getting in the way… I am reading A LOT on Lisbon these days, planning our trip and so far, your site and contribution exceeds everything I have read! Thanks for these valuable tips.

    Reply
  8. Just returned from Lisbon where we stayed at an AirBnB in the Graca neighborhood (right near the Pingo Doce grocery store). The information in this blog is still spot-on in 2022. We enjoyed staying outside the tourist center – this area gave us a nice break from the crowds. One addition I would add to the food scene is the international restaurants present in Graca including “Taj Mahal” (example) which has Indian cuisine. Despite being a little “off the beaten path”, you can still buy things like souvenirs, get 24 hour metro tickets and other stuff you’ll need before you set out to explore Lisbon’s more popular areas. Graca is a perfect base.

    Reply
  9. I wrote the review above back in 2019. Since then things has change redically – and for the better.

    Unfortunately most of the new places to eat, meet, drink and/or just hang-out are not mentioned – and many of the places on the blog are either closed, changed owners/concepts and/or chefs that this blog has become useless. And more important – a lot of NEW places has opened. Some of them are among the best in Lisbon in their category…. Vino Vero, La Mata, Secret Garden, Onda, BomBomBom, LaDiDaDi, RD’s, L’Ape, Estado de Graça, D’As Beatas to mention the most obvious ones…

    The street art has changed completely – also for the better,,,

    Sorry….

    Reply

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