What’s The Difference Between A Pocket Square And A Handkerchief?

Whether you're a seasoned suit sophisticate or are just beginning your sartorial journey, you will benefit from understanding the different terminologies used in menswear. There's no better place to start than with the most versatile and common accessory in menswear: the pocket square.

While some may use the terms pocket square and handkerchief interchangeably, they aren't exactly the same. In this article, we will discuss their history and evolution, their rise (and fall) in menswear, and why you should include both in your wardrobe. 

The Roots 

Pinpointing exactly when the handkerchief was created or first used can be difficult, but some historians point to Chinese dynasties as early as 1000 BCE. Archaeologists have uncovered figurines holding what appeared to be cloths. While we don't know what the cloths' exact purpose was, members of ancient civilizations may have used them for cleaning, wiping their faces, and/or shielding themselves from the elements.

Others point to the Egyptians and ancient Greeks, who carried small swatches of cloth that were typically dyed or had perfumes and scents applied to them. These cloths were a sign of wealth only used by individuals in high societal ranks.

Handkerchiefs were also popular during Roman times, being waved in the air by spectators cheering on their favourite chariots and gladiators, traded on The Silk Road, and used in rituals, as makeshift tourniquets, and sewn into wallets, by individuals from Middle Eastern cultures.

Origin Of The Term Handkerchief 

Handkerchief evolved from the French word kerchief, which is a combination of two words: couvrir (which means 'to cover') and chef (which means 'head'). The first version of a handkerchief was similar to a bandana.

It wasn't until the 16^th century when people began using kerchiefs to wipe their faces, hands, and noses—thus the addition of hand. 

Rise

During the industrial revolution in the last decades of the 1800s, handkerchiefs were mass-produced from cheaper fabrics, making them more affordable. They were manufactured in an array of colours, patterns, and designs to entice new buyers and to persuade people to purchase multiples to compliment a variety of outfits.

Nearly everyone had at least one handkerchief that they carried with them. During this time, gentlemen began wearing theirs in their breast pocket to separate it from items like keys and coins, thus preventing it from getting dirty. Some even began folding their handkerchiefs in unique ways to show off their style and individuality. 

Fall 

As a global flu pandemic swept through nations during World War I, a little-known company called Kleenex created a slogan that not only cratered the handkerchief market, but also launched single-use disposable tissues into the stratosphere. "Don't carry a cold in your pocket" was repeated by men and women alike.

Realizing they were carrying germs in their pockets, many decided to trash their handkerchiefs for the more hygienic single-use tissues. 

Resurgence 

In the 1930s and 1940s, the days of the handkerchief seemed to be ending, but then, early style icons like Fred Astaire began wearing them on the silver screen for purely decorative purposes. In this way, the pocket square was born. This period of style is often considered the golden age of menswear and also represented the peak of the pocket square.

Pocket squares became synonymous with formalwear. Everyone who owned a suit had at least one pocket square. You couldn't leave the house before carefully folding a pocket square and putting it in your breast pocket. 

Modern Times 

With the rise of casual attire in the workforce, the suit and its accessories, like the tie and pocket square, have become items commonly worn by older generations, those in higher-paying positions, and celebrities. Some may think that these items may make you appear overly pretentious if you don't fall into those categories, but the opposite is true.

Wearing a suit with a pocket square and tie makes you stand out from the relaxed, informal attire of those around you. It shows others that you pay attention to details, are professional, and put time and effort into looking your best. 

Handkerchief vs Pocket Square 

Now that you know the history, it should be apparent that handkerchiefs and pocket squares serve different purposes. While not every gentleman will carry a handkerchief with them in their daily wear, they should have a pocket square in their breast pocket if they are wearing a sport jacket or suit.

An easy way to remember the difference between the two is that one is to blow and one is for show. If you own handkerchiefs, it is a good idea to have them all made from similarly patterned and coloured materials, and to keep them in a separate location from your pocket squares.

A suit, sport coat, or formal jacket isn't complete without the addition of a pocket square. A pop of colour can elevate your ensemble to the next level. A simple white pocket square in a presidential fold can give you a sophisticated, formal look while a patterned pocket square in a tri-fold or rose fold shows others that you care about details but also like to be bold with your attire.

At the end of the day, a gentleman should always be prepared. Investing in a few handkerchiefs and keeping them in your jacket pockets can save you from an embarrassing or unsightly booger or from wiping away a manly tear because someone is cutting onions nearby. It can also be given to a date or loved one if they need a tissue. 

Summary:

Knowing the differences between a pocket square and a handkerchief can save you the embarrassment of grabbing your hand-rolled silk pocket square and using it to blow your nose or putting your dirty handkerchief in your crisp, clean sport coat. Utilizing the pop of colour a pocket square provides will take your outfit to the next level!

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