ATWILLRELEASESNEWBEONLINEMIDDAYAEST,FRIDAY2NDSEPTEMBER YOU BELONG HERE: SMWS.COM.AU As one: Friday 2 September Issue 08, 2022 This month we’re celebrating our club and our shared love of single cask whisky. Get involved in The Gathering, this new collection of casks has been selected to bring our members All Together Now.
Contents Bigs or smalls? Andrew Derbidge 4 Welcome back to The Gathering Matt Bailey 8 What I’ve learnt so far in my whisky journey... Adam Ioannidis 36 YOUNG & SPRITELY Cask No. 46.116 (Malt of the Month) Snickerdoodle! ..........................................................................10 SWEET, FRUITY & MELLOW Cask No. 39.220 Fruit flavour bomb 12 Cask No. 63.79 Peaceful vineyard walks 12 SPICY & SWEET Cask No. 1.253 The real deal 15 Cask No. 113.47 A picnic pour ............................................................................ 15 DEEP, RICH & DRIED FRUITS Cask No. 107.24 Oven-ready Moomin 16 Cask No. 80.32 A kick up the old bodega 26 SPICY & DRY Cask No. 68.84 Big loaf .......................................................................................... 13 Cask No. 78.55 Slow sapid surrender 13 JUICY, OAK & VANILLA Cask No. 46.120 A dark and tropical path 31 Cask No. 44.144 Extra texture 31 OLD & DIGNIFIED Cask No. 70.44 (Vaults Collection) The loom of time .....................................................................28 LIGHTLY PEATED Cask No. 4.304 A proper BBQ dram 32 PEATED Cask No. 16.55 Grubbily magnetic ................................................................ 32 RUM Cask No. R13.4 Bizarre, bonkers and brilliant! 35 BOTTLINGSOUR 2
OFFERSBUNDLE SOCIETYYOUR 201821 BRILLIANT ESTERS! 23 Cask No. 68.84 Big loaf Cask No. 108.47 ‘I dream of genie…’ Cask No. 115.21 A capering ester jester ITALIAN SEASIDE HOLIDAY 24 Cask No. 52.4 Seaside ceviche Cask No. 105.35 Genuine Italian fake RHYTHMIC AND REFRESHING 24 Cask No. 7.263 Dancing to the rhythm Cask No. 28.63 Zesty and refreshing SWEETS & PEATS 25 Cask No. 42.66 Sweet spot Cask No. 91.29 Cherries, sweets, berries and treats PERFECT PICNIC PACK 22 Cask No. 96.32 Sunshiny shimmer of satisfaction Cask No. 9.22 Mellow and yellow Cask No. 35.294 Willow wood in the sun 3
Bigs CHAIRMAN’S COLUMN smalls? 4
I was recently privileged to attend an exploratory tasting put on by a new Australian distillery. Still in its early days, the distillery had some samples drawn from casks that were works-inprogress, and the owners were keen for some candid and honest feedback about where their spirit sat and how it was interacting with different casks and wood types. In contrast to many of the other newer Aussie distilleries to set up in the last four to seven years, the distillery made the far-reaching decision to fill only into larger barrels, e.g. 200 litre ex-bourbon casks, and 250-300L sherry hogsheads and the like. The results were impressive: Good spirit, filled into good wood, matured in good conditions and given time for all three components of maturation to take place…will generally hit the mark. This particular distillery appears to have found its sweet spot from the get-go. For many reasons – most of them revolving around finance, capital, patience, and cash flow – many new Aussie start-up distilleries opt to use smaller casks, generally either 20L, 50L, or 100L. The smaller casks can assist with economies of scale and the size of production, cost of wood investment, and the time needed to bring their product to market. There is a truth that whisky can mature faster in smaller casks, but that’s only part of the picture….as we’ll explore in a moment. The theory goes that because smaller casks result in a greater ratio of {wood surface area} to {litres of liquid}, there is greater scope for the oak to influence the spirit. The fly in the ointment is that whisky maturation in oak is a three-pronged process: It is additive, subtractive, and interactive. The cask will add flavour and character to the spirit. (For example, wood sugars, oaky notes, tannins, the influence of the previous filling (e.g. sherry) and colour will be added to the spirit). The cask and the maturation/evaporation process will subtract certain volatiles, compounds, and characteristics from the spirit. And the cask and spirit will combine for an interactive interplay. This is where the magic happens as certain chemical and molecular reactions occur between the wood, the spirit, the residuals left by previous fillings, and – most importantly, oxygen, to create new flavours and aromas. Time is therefore critical with maturation, and due time is needed for all three of these processes to play out. Many distilleries have played with 20L or 50L casks in order to fast-track their maturation and bring spirit to market earlier (often at just over two years of age – the legal minimum in Australia), only to 5
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find that the bottled product can sometimes underwhelm. Sure, the additive and interactive processes have played out, often producing dark and very oaky whisky, but many remain hot, aggressive, sulphury, and volatile….because the all-important subtractive process has not had a chance to fully develop. The “hot and sulphury” observation can often be exacerbated when using ex-wine casks that have only been toasted, rather than properly charred. (The charred oak acts as a filter that helps remove sulphur compounds from the spirit).
That’s not to say or suggest that small cask maturation doesn’t work, or that every smallcask release is somehow flawed. As it happens, I’ve been fortunate to try some stunning Aussie whisky from 20L and 50L casks where everything just “clicked”. That being said, as someone who watches this space closely, it’s been my observation that, generally speaking, there is a slowly growing tendency for serious Australian distilleries to move from small cask to big cask maturation programs.
“...there is a slowly growing tendency for serious programs.”bigfromdistilleriesAustraliantomovesmallcasktocaskmaturation
The irony is that, for some time now, many distilleries and producers in Scotland are going the other way! Perhaps dating back to 2003/4 when Laphroaig first brought out their Quarter Cask release, many distilleries are utilising smaller casks for special limited edition or one-off releases. Newer distilleries – such as Ardnamurchan and Glasgow Distillery – have brought out some wonderful whiskies at relatively young ages (in the context of Scotch) that showed quality and development beyond their years. Quarter casks, octaves, and even bloodtubs have been behind some youthful but stunning releases. Of course, nothing in this subject is really that black and white, and there are many other factors that come in to play and ultimately influence how “young” whisky will taste at 3, 4, 5, and 6 years. (For example, the nature, quality, and character of the new make spirit; the climate and ambient temperature/humidity in the maturation warehouses; how active the wood is, and so on.)
It’s a dynamic and exciting space to watch. And of all the other questions that a distillery must ask itself, there’s now a new one to consider: Bigs or Cheers.smalls? “...of all the other questions that a distillery must ask itself, there’s now a new one to consider: Bigs or smalls?”
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Andrew Derbidge ~ Chairman, Director, and NSW Manager
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AMBASSADOR’S ADDRESS
GatheringTheWelcomebackto
Matt Bailey ~ SMWS AmbassadorNational “It’s a whiskytheandcomewhere,how,wheremonthnomatternomatterwegettotogethershareinbestofwhatcando”
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Cheers.month!
S eptember is a special month for the SMWS, around the world. It’s a month where we celebrate the coming together across the world to share in tasty and enjoyable single casks, where the community becomes the core of what we are all about. It’s a month where no matter how, no matter where, we get to come together and share in the best of what whisky can do. Whether huddled around a bonfire, or the warm surrounds at home, or one of our Partner Bars, or one of our venues around the world, or gathered at one of our incredible events, the Gathering brings us together to celebrate. As is the tradition for our Gathering, we also have a full cask to share around for the month. The brief is the same, but the flavour is always different: A full cask of something fun, approachable, and sharable that can be gleefully popped open in a social setting and enjoyed by every member & friend along the way. For September, it was our members who picked out Cask 46.116, but it was ultimately NSW member Mark Garroway who took the honour of naming it ‘Snickerdoodle!’. By the time you’re reading this, Mark will probably know his name was selected and he’s got a bottle heading his way as Wecongratulations.weren’table to receive as many names this time around due to a mixture of production delays and pandemic-related issues with sharing whisky around, but we still managed to get around 100 x entries this year and there was something just fantastic about the idea of the flavour of Cask 46.116 being close to the Snickerdoodle biscuit. For those unaware, a Snickerdoodle is a biscuit with ingredients like flour, butter, sugar, salt, and then generously rolled in cinnamon. The recipe will often use a cream of tartar and baking soda giving the biscuit a slightly tangy and zesty note. Like most baking classics, the ingredients are simple, but success comes down to choosing the best quality ingredients, the right mix of each, and that perfectly uniform heat in baking them. Sounds a bit like whisky production when you think about it. So with that said, a massive congratulations to SMWS member Mark Garroway who named our Gathering cask for 2022, and I’m sure he’d agree with me that this whisky goes very well with a freshly baked Snickerdoodle! Myself and our wonderful state managers will be already roaming around with the 2023 Gathering sample soon seeking names for next year, but in the meantime, slainté, and happy Gathering
SNICKERDOODLE! CASK
$149YOUNG & SPRITELY REGION Speyside CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel AGE 9 years DATE DISTILLED 18 June 2012 OUTTURN 216 bottles ABV 60.4% AUS ALLOCATION 199 bottles 10
Expect notes of greenhouse plants, spice grinder, cinnamon sticks, dried banana chips, and of course, snickerdoodle cookies in the park in Spring. Here’s to you, here’s to the Society, here’s the Gathering!
The Gathering is about coming together, sharing great whisky, and creating memories we can hold forever. Back for 2022, The Gathering has some really special events coming up which will be sharing around our Malt of the Month, The full Gathering Cask exclusive to Australia: Cask 46.116 Snickerdoodle! A huge shout out to all members who helped taste and select this cask, and a big congratulations to Mark Garroway, whose name for this was ultimately picked the winner!
AUSTRALIANEXCLUSIVEMALTOFTHEMONTH
SNICKERDOODLE!
Like sugar cookies on a fresh Spring afternoon! On the nose, brisk grassy spirit with greenhouse plants, spice grinder, orange blossom, lemon sherbet lollies, desiccated coconut, and dried banana chips. The palate is zingy, lively and full of Lossie exuberance. Fresh cut grass, banana bread, and exactly the kind of spirit best shared in good company at a park picnic with new friends. The reduced nose has a bit of cigar ash, digestive biscuits, and lemon meringue. Forest fruits, spiced Dutch biscuits, and lovely sharable savoury notes to hold it all together. The palate after some time holds together like vintage champagne with a side of melting moments and a day in the sun. Delightful. NO. 46.116
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CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel AGE 19 years DATE DISTILLED 9 May 2002
OUTTURN 215 bottles ABV 53.8% AUS ALLOCATION 42 bottles 12
FRUIT FLAVOUR BOMB
$185SWEET, FRUITY & MELLOW
REGION Speyside
CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel AGE 12 years DATE DISTILLED 12 February 2009 OUTTURN 165 bottles ABV 61.2% AUS ALLOCATION 42 bottles
CASK NO. 63.79
CASK NO. 39.220
$220SWEET,FRUITY & MELLOW REGION Speyside
A very elegant nose of freshly baked strawberry jelly and vanilla cream brioche doughnuts with lilac flavoured sugar, smelling like a bush full of the prettiest purple lilacs. Delicate, sweet and fruity on the palate reminded us of a sweet liqueur made from tiny red ‘vineyard peaches’ in the Mosel region which we added into a Bellini-type champagne cocktail – delicious! Water added wild violet plants with their heart-shaped leaves and purple-blue flowers usually appearing during the first warm days of the year, while to taste a selection of silky Marc de Champagne truffles coated in creamy milk chocolate and finished with a dusting of icing sugar.
The nose was a one-armed-bandit jackpot of fruits – plum, pears and pineapple, lemon tart and fruity rum punch; also combining brown sugar and syrup with oak, balsamic and clove. The palate whispered of cardamom and chilli but sang full-throatedly of juicy exotic fruits, gummi bears, lemon peel and honey. The reduced nose became more citric – Key lime pie and lemon drizzle cake, sherbet straws, perfumed pear and cut flowers scattered over oak floorboards. The reduced palate was a flavour bomb of lemon zest, kumquat and lime sweets, rhubarb rock and Haribos; the finish entertained us with jasmine tea and kiln-dried oak.
PEACEFUL VINEYARD WALKS
$160SPICY&
BIG LOAF CASK
AUS ALLOCATION 24 bottles
$165SPICY&
The initial nose suggested to us bruised cooking apples, hessian cloth and bouillon stock with pearl barley. Rich, umami and nourishing! In time some notes of desiccated coconut and lemon barley water emerged too. Reduction brought nougat, sheep wool and petrichor with suntan lotion and lemon infused olive oil. The neat palate opened with a lovely creamy and fatty texture, then pineapple cubes, and eventually a big, rich, bready character. Water brought golden syrup, sunflower oils, brown bread, hand cream and cloudy cider. NO. 68.84
We encountered a curious nose, full of cherries and chocolate, liquorice and lemon, peanuts, pistachios and wasabi peas. The palate was sweet and intensely flavoured – buttery Danish biscuits, toffee, crème brulée and cinnamon toast, then a warming, mouth-drying finish of ginger, chilli, over-done plum pie and oak. The reduced nose offered barley sugars and apricot flan, nougat, trail mix with hazelnuts and dried coconut and sanded wood on a workbench. The reduced palate slowly surrendered its sapid secrets, which included apple crumble, caramel log and dark chocolate Bounty bars, with an after-taste of pepper and ginger in a dentist’s clinic. NO. 78.55
DRY REGION Highland CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon hogshead AGE 8 years DATE DISTILLED 7 December 2012
OUTTURN 264 bottles ABV 59.4% AUS ALLOCATION 36 bottles 13
SLOW SURRENDERSAPID CASK
DRY REGION Highland CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel AGE 9 years DATE DISTILLED 2 August 2012 OUTTURN 228 bottles ABV 61.9%
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CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel AGE 12 years DATE DISTILLED 3 March 2009
Lovely to try this great make from a refill cask we all agreed. The natural robustness of the distillate showed through straight away with canvass, dry cereals, starched linens, chalk and mineral oil. After that it became sweeter with toffee, vanilla pods and ginger biscuits. Water brought sweeter cereal tones, ozone freshness, sheep wool and savoury miso. The sense of a taut, well-structured distillate. The mouth was wonderfully rich with condensed milk, sharp green apple, muddled herbs, fennel and hessian. A dollop of malt extract too. Reduction brought more oily and mineral tones with green tea, flower honey and charred pineapple. NO.
REGION Speyside
OUTTURN 200 bottles ABV 65.9% AUS ALLOCATION 30 bottles WEEK
CASK TYPE 2nd fill bourbon barrel AGE 8 years DATE DISTILLED 13 December 2012
SWEET
9THRELEASE2SEPTEMBER 15
$185SPICY&
REGION Speyside
1.253$175SPICY&
THE REAL DEAL CASK
SWEET
OUTTURN 205 bottles ABV 63.5% AUS ALLOCATION 36 bottles
The initial nose suggested apple pips, pruning roses and sweet earthy tones. Scented fabrics, linens, crushed oatcakes and sweet barley extract. With water we found classical notes of pineapple boiled sweets, banana bread, malt loaf and crystallised stem ginger. The neat palate showed an initial blast of freshness with polo mints, then more typical confectionary notes of jelly beans, red liquorice, and chocolate lime sweets. Beyond that a lick of gooseberry acidity and spicy cinnamon. Water brought out a buttery richness, muddled fresh herbs, Amaretti biscuit, nettles and lemon cough drops. NO. 113.47
A PICNIC POUR CASK
We always encourage members to be flavour hunters, not code hunters, but it would be remiss of us not to mention that distillery 107 is getting some serious attention lately thanks to the efforts of Billy Walker, who has turned this once Chivas-owned blenders’ distillery into a single malt brand of some serious stature. We, of course, have gone another level deeper with a single cask, single malt with Cask 107.24 Oven-ready Moomin. Not for the faint of heart, this is a big bombastic cask with lots of flavour and fun in every pour. A warm, inviting and rather dense sherry profile greeted the Panel at first nosing. Crème brûlée, caramel sauce, freshly dipped toffee apples, allspice, buttery shortbread and dark fruits stewed in armagnac. Some touches of fig compote and plum wine underneath. Reduction offered spiced mango lassi, rapeseed oil, leathery mineral notes, wild strawberry and tomato vine. In the mouth, we initially noted the savoury richness of freshly baked brown bread, bananas flambéed with brown sugar, chocolate sauce, herbal cocktail bitters and singed raisins. With water, we got bitter chocolate, roasted aubergine, natural tar, ointments, espresso and thicker notes of hessian, earthy dunnage and dried wild mushrooms.
MOOMINOVEN-READY CASK NO. 107.24$160DEEP,RICH & DRIED FRUITS REGION Speyside CASK TYPE 1st fill Sherry butt AGE 8 years DATE DISTILLED 9 May 2012 OUTTURN 622 bottles ABV 59.8% AUS ALLOCATION 42 bottles 16
SIPPINGSUPERSTAR
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GATHERINGGLOBAL IS HERE
QLD Mrs J Rabbits WA Terrarium
This promotion will run between the 12th and 18th of September at the following Partner Bars 19
NSW TheBalconyCaptain’s VIC Whisky Alement&
TAS NewHotelSydney
In the spirit of sharing our beloved spirit, The SMWS is running a week-long promotionthatinvitesallmemberstoheadtoparticipatingPartnerBarsandshare a dram of the Gathering cask (and other Society goodies, of course) with their friends!Thefirst half-dram of the Gathering cask will be on us, giving everyone the opportunity to taste and share the incredible single-cask flavours with friends. We encourage all members to bring their friends along and share in the excitement and sense of community The Society is so well-known for down-under. As a bonus, all new members that sign-up via the QR codes found at each participating Partner Bar will receive a complimentary virtual tasting kit (while stocks last) to enjoy with their new membership (in addition to joining the world’s most colourful and flavoursome whisky club)! Global Gathering is all about sharing our passion, love and enjoyment for the delicious Society spirit in glass, whether it’s single cask, blended or single malt; it’s about coming together and embracing what The Society is, a community that celebrates good whisky. Head down to any of the above Partner Bars between the 12th and 18th of September and bring some friends with you to share and celebrate good whisky.
WHISKYBRISBANEWHISKY!
The Brisbane Club, 241 Adelaide St, Brisbane.
The iconic Oak Barrel whisky fair is back for 2022 after a pandemic-hiatus, and the Society is super proud to be back on the main stage for our full presentation and tasting lounge for all to experience. Bring a friend, discover the SMWS, and come say hello! 9-10 SEPT 2022 The Oak Barrel, 152 Elizabeth St, Sydney.
IN ADELAIDE
SATURDAY 24 SEPTEMBER Fish Lane, South Brisbane.
FRIDAY 30 SEPTEMBER
The SMWS are proudly presenting at Whisky Whisky festival this year across both sessions. Keen to learn more about the SMWS? Already a member and want to say hello? Tickets through Whisky Whisky.
It’s the Gathering, it’s a grand dinner, and it’s paired up with Society whisky. That’s a triple win! Come join us for an amazing evening of flavour to celebrate the Gathering.
It’s the Gathering, it’s a delicious Seven Stars dinner, and it’s five sensational Society malts. That’s a triple win! Come join us for an amazing evening of flavour to celebrate the Gathering
FOR OUR LATEST EVENT LISTINGS AND TO BOOK ONLINE VISIT SMWS.COM.AU/EVENTS
THE GATHERING WHISKY DINNER
SATURDAY [DATE TBC] OCTOBER, ONE NIGHT ONLY Venue TBC.
SOCIETY
MELBOURNE 20 Years of the Society in Australia is upon us, and that is to be properly celebrated with 3 x exclusive casks and a special evening.
SATURDAY 1 OCTOBER, ONE NIGHT ONLY Old Melbourne Gaol: 377 Russell St, Melbourne.
FRIDAY 30 SEPTEMBER, 6PM FOR A 6:30PM START Seven Stars Hotel, 187 Angas St, Adelaide. 20
WHISKY FAIR
20TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE AUSTRALIAN BRANCH OF SMWS: LAUNCH PARTY
EXPERIENCES
SYDNEY 20 Years of the Society in Australia is upon us, and that is to be properly celebrated with 3 x exclusive casks and a special evening.
THEADELAIDEGATHERING
OAKSYDNEYBARREL
GRAB YOUR VIRTUAL TASTING KIT AND JOIN IN! SMWS.COM.AU/SHOP You asked, we listened, and the super popular mystery malts is back for 2022. 5 x drams, delivered to you in a brown box, with just a number on each bottle. Let’s have some fun, challenge the panel, submit our own tasting notes back to them, and then reveal live on stream which one is which as we go! This will be a night of really leaning into our noses and palates, really exploring flavour with even less pre-conception, and discovering casks and curios you might not have expected. *Includes 5 x 30ml serves of superb and unknown wonders! MysterySeptemberMalts VIRTUAL TASTING JOIN US LIVE! THURSDAY 22 SEPTEMBER, 7PM AEST $79EACHSET* 21
BUNDLE OFFERS PERFECT PICNIC PACK $495 12 available If you were to take 3 x perfect drops to your next picnic, these are them. A cheeseboard, fresh buttered baguette, and a few glasses of these summery selections to boot. Perfect. Limit of one bundle per member SUNSHINY SHIMMER OF SATISFACTION SPICY & SWEET CASK NO. 96.32 WILLOW WOOD IN THE SUN CASK NO. 35.294 JUICY, OAK & VANILLA SPICY & MELLOWSWEETAND YELLOW CASK NO. 9.220 $60ASABUNDLE 22
BRILLIANT ESTERS! BUNDLE OFFERS $439 8 available Funky, yeasty, estery madness in a glass. The kind of whiskies that are biscuity, bready, and full of flavour that will often challenge, delight, and amaze with their spirit complexity. Limit of one bundle per member BIGSPICYLOAF&DRY CASK NO. 68.84 A CAPERING ESTER JESTER CASK NO. 115.21 SPICYPEATED& SWEET ‘I DREAM OF GENIE…’ CASK NO. 108.47 SAVE$61ASABUNDLE 23
ITALIAN SEASIDE HOLIDAY $299 12 available It’s starting to smell like Spring is in the air. Pack your bags, hit the Amalfi coast, and whip up a ceviche for all to enjoy with a bright dram and full-flavoured adventure. Limit of one bundle per member GENUINE ITALIAN FAKE SEASIDE CEVICHE YOUNG & SPRITELY CASK NO. CASK NO. 52.40 SAVE$51ASABUNDLE RHYTHMIC AND REFRESHING $320 12 available Lemon zest, candy cane, dolly mixture. Two wildly different but hugely rhythmic drams to refresh your palate and remind you what you love about great malt character in a glass. Limit of one bundle per member ZESTY AND REFRESHING DANCING TO THE RHYTHM YOUNG & SPRITELY SWEET, FRUITY & MELLOW CASK NO. 7.263 SAVE$50ASABUNDLE BUNDLE OFFERS 24
PEATED The magic of Mull crossed with the underrated berry sweetness from distillery 91, sweet peat and cherry berries make for a fun duo of polar opposites but also strangely sharing a sweet similarity. Limit of one bundle per member CHERRIES, SWEETS, BERRIES AND TREATS SWEET SPOT CASK NO. 91.29 CASK NO. 42.66 SPICY & SWEET SAVE$45ASABUNDLE SWEETS & PEATS $320 8 available BUNDLE OFFERS 25
Boom! If I say just these two words, you’ll know what I mean: Clean sherry. Like a fresh Madeira cake sitting in an old bodega. Rich sherry spices and thick fruitcake on a warm sunny early evening kind of whisky. Not a distillery you’d ever associate with a big sherry influence, or even a distillery with any kind of single malt to really speak of, this workhorse nestled in the heart of Speyside is a delight when seen in single cask format like this. USED
The neat nose suggested Crème Brûlée, clean sherry, fruits of the forest yoghurt and apple and sultana chutney with a good dose of spice. Water brought out many interesting aromas including cola cubes, madeira cake, candied orange peels, caramelized oatmeal and cinder toffee. A big and charismatic dram so far we though. To taste we initially got butterscotch sweetness, then Guinness cake, raisins, orange Muscat and a firm kick of wood spice. With water it became nuttier, with notes of heather flowers, old school IPA and millionaire shortbread. Previously matured in a bourbon hogshead for 9 years before transfer to a 1st fill Oloroso hogshead.
SHERRY AIN’T WHAT IT
A KICK UP THE OLD BODEGA CASK NO. 80.32$180DEEP,RICH & DRIED FRUITS REGION Speyside CASK TYPE 1st fill Oloroso hogshead AGE 11 years DATE DISTILLED 15 March 2010 OUTTURN 296 bottles ABV 58.8% AUS ALLOCATION 60 bottles MATUREDEXTRA 26
TO BE
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PERFECTIONDELICATE
COLLECTIONVAULTS 28
Each month, the whole bar team at Whisky & Alement in Melbourne sit down and do a full staff training on the upcoming Outturn. Cask 70.44 The loom of time, our Vaults Collection release for September, scored a massive 95 points amongst the team. For their critical scoring system, and for the sheer volume of new releases that pass their noses each week, this is a big deal and one of the highest scoring drams EVER. Expect a window into another era with Cask 70.44. Notes of heather ales, flowers in honey, wax jacket grease, hot cross buns and smoked white pepper. This is the epitome of what superaged whisky can taste like from the Highlands. Do not miss this.
THE LOOM OF TIME CASK NO. 70.44$975OLD&DIGNIFIED Pure and immediate pleasure! A wealth of complex aromas including sweetened green tea, heather ales, flower honey, sweetened porridge, sandalwood, gorse flower, brittle waxes, pollens and wax jacket grease. The epitome of refined maturity and beauty in malt whisky. With a little water we got more pollens, chamomile, wildflowers, tea tree oil, hessians and bitter citrus piths as well as precious hardwoods, like the inside of a freshly made acoustic guitar. The palate bloomed initially with dried flowers and rich spices, things like hot cross buns, smoked white pepper, camphor and nutmeg. Then with water, citronella wax, ancient herbal liqueurs, stout beers, hardwood resins, miso broth and verbena. An endless and spellbinding vortex of complexity keeps you perpetually transfixed. AGECASKREGIONTYPE 31 years DATE DISTILLED 20 June 1989 OUTTURN 128 bottles ABV 50.3% AUS ALLOCATION 12 bottles 29
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CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel AGE 11 years DATE DISTILLED 6 October 2009
REGION Speyside
44.144$210JUICY,OAK & VANILLA
A DARK TROPICALANDPATH CASK
The nose was initially punchy and aromatic, full of rosewater, metal polish, young Gewürztraminer, heather honey, apple upside-down cake and zingy gooseberry tart. Some soft, luxurious waxes and baked pineapple circulating underneath. Water brought out the warmth of English mustard powder, posh olive oil, chamois leather, red liquorice, old rope and mineral notes like clay and flint. The neat palate offered marzipan, balsamic onions, sheep wool oils and umami paste. Unctuous, savoury and full herbal medical touches. Water brought sweetened herbal teas, spiced vanilla cake, old school shilling ales and mechanical oils on an old hessian rag. Wood spices and roasted nuts in the aftertaste. Matured in a bourbon hogshead for 12 years before transfer to a 2nd fill red wine barrique. NO.
OUTTURN 213 bottles ABV 62.1% AUS ALLOCATION 54 bottles 31
$165JUICY,OAK
AUS ALLOCATION 30 bottles
REGION Speyside
EXTRA TEXTURE CASK
OUTTURN 196 bottles ABV 59.8%
46.120
We found ourselves deep in a lush forest, surrounded by oak and pine trees with a slight maritime twist to the salty breeze. Sweet aromas of berries, marzipan and fudge then merged with creamy buttery notes on brown toast. The palate was an intense punch of tropical juice and chillies that softened to brown sugar, cereals and figs with sticky syrup and red liquorice. With water came a more autumnal feel of dried leaves and clean earth, still with butter and almonds but now also being accompanied by dry spices, brazil nuts and walnuts. A much softer mouthfeel now encouraged banana, guava and vanilla with a drying finish reminiscent of dark chocolate and grape skins. NO.
CASK TYPE 2nd fill red wine barrique AGE 14 years DATE DISTILLED 23 October 2006
& VANILLA
MATUREDEXTRA
$175PEATED
MATUREDEXTRA 32
CASK NO. 16.55
CASK NO. 4.304
OUTTURN 262 bottles ABV 58.3% AUS ALLOCATION 54 bottles
GRUBBILY MAGNETIC
A PROPER BBQ DRAM
Our noses found sweetness (golden syrup, barley sugars, foamy shrimps), then smouldering campfires, hotdogs, spiced fruit punch and smoke drifting from the Battle of Trafalgar (one panellist was there). The palate served us charred steak with tarragon and rocket, chilli prawns on wooden chopsticks and burnt raisin fruit cake; possibly also inner tubes, chimney scrapings and chewing tobacco. The reduced nose again had sweetness (coconut macaroons, Caramac, jammy dodgers), pine wood crackling in a woodburning stove, cigarette smoke and Dubbin on leather hiking boots. The reduced palate was still slightly grubby, but with magnetic quality – Eccles cakes, apple strudel, pepperami and humidors.
REGION Highland CASK TYPE Recharred hogshead AGE 10 years DATE DISTILLED 25 November 2010 OUTTURN 294 bottles ABV 60.9% AUS ALLOCATION 42 bottles
REGION Highland CASK TYPE 1st fill STR Pedro Ximenez barrique AGE 16 years DATE DISTILLED 18 January 2005
We imagined carrying peat slabs in a wicker basket across heathery moorland as we took a break and shared a robust intense red wine (100% Grenache) out of a leather Bota curved wineskin. Bursting with cherry and black fruit flavours and tempered with smoky notes of spice and pepper - a proper BBQ dram! Following reduction, the scent was what we imagined a Spanish style rum that was matured in ex-smoky Islay whisky barrels would smell like, sweet but also plenty of smoke from roast lamb. After fourteen years in an ex-bourbon hogshead, we transferred this whisky into a shaved, toasted and re-charred 1st fill PX barrique.
$310LIGHTLY PEATED
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We have learned to expect all sorts from this (unfortunately) closed distillery. Here we go againliquorice, spice, black treacle and pineapple glazed ham, phenols, an old wooden sea chest and not to forget, washable colour glue available as Granny Smiths apple, banana mania yellow, mango tango pink and Pacific blue! The palate certainly did not lag behind with oily rags, an old metal toolbox, herbal cough mixture but also wave after wave of cherries, sugar cane and vanilla sweetness. Adding water and we awoke the serpent power, phenolic, tar, camphor, dandelion and burdock and when we tasted it, the sweetness grabbed us by the neck and took us down into the abyss.
BIZARRE, BONKERS AND BRILLIANT! CASK NO. R13.4$675RUM REGION Trinidad CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel AGE 23 years DATE DISTILLED 1 January 1998 OUTTURN 222 bottles ABV 61.8% AUS ALLOCATION 30 bottles 35
What WORDSjourney…inlearntI’vesofarmywhiskyBY ADAM IOANNIDIS 36
No1 The SMWS tasting notes aren’t checklists
I t’s been about nine months since I joined The Scotch Malt Whisky Society as Marketing Assistant, and whilst I enjoyed whisk(e)y and could appreciate the flavours on an amateur level, there has been so much that I’ve learnt in just a short amount of time. Like any hobby, field or passion, I suppose, there are ways to appreciate on a surface level, ways to dive into the real nerdy aspect of things, and a good middle ground that draws the best of both worlds. I’ve definitely encountered those who fall into all three of those categories and it’s honestly just wonderful because at the end of the day, it’s the common love and appreciation for the spirit in glass that binds us all together, regardless of how in-depth you want to go. This month is the Global Gathering month, it will be my first with The Society (as I’m sure it will be many others’ first) and, in the spirit of gathering and sharing, I wanted to share some things that I’ve learnt so far that may help other newcomers on their whisky journey.
Don’t be hasty
This can be a subjective notion (but one that’s definitely worth a try) and that’s letting the whisky sit for a bit in your glass before drinking it. I’ve had the opportunity to share some SMWS spirit around with friends and family over the last few months and I always say “I’d let it sit for 10 – 15 minutes at least”. For me, I’ve always found that the spirit eases up after it’s had time to relax in the glass and open up to its new temporary home. I say this is subjective not because people don’t believe in it, but because some people just like to sip as soon as it has been poured. This isn’t a taboo by any stretch, but I have found that letting it sit for a while does pay off; often this may not even require any additional water reduction.
No2
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Everyone’s senses are different, everyone will nose and taste different things; this is why we have a panel of expert tasters and not just a single person. The tasting notes are a compilation of what you may taste or nose, not what you definitely will.
If you don’t quite get the faint waft of a Southampton bathroom off the M3…that’s okay, few probably will. The tasting panel allows for a wider net of potential flavours and notes to be discovered thus delivering a definitive and concise guide for each cask. The key word being guide — they’re designed to help you pick casks you might like, but there’s nothing wrong if you don’t sense all or even any of the notes; as long as you actually enjoy the whisky.
No4 Age is just a number
Coming from outside of the whisky passion ecosystem, I can definitely say that the assumption that older whisky must mean better whisky is very much alive. Older whiskies tend to have grander presentations and prices to accompany them. But as I’ve learnt, and as Matt has stated in multiple videos we’ve done, they’re not better, they’re just different. But people definitely should not be so quick to overlook younger whiskies as they can sometimes offer extraordinary flavours.
Whilst I believe the general consensus is that people are starting to move away from automatic exclusion based on region, I still think it needs to be said. Islay whisky is synonymous with peat, but they’re not the only region in the world (nor are they the only region in Scotland) producing peated whisky. Highland peat and even English peated whiskies are phenomenal and definitely worth exploring. Of course, this all comes back to whether or not the flavour notes pique your interest, but no whisky should be overlooked based on regionality.
No5 Whisky really is fantastic when shared There was a great article in Unfiltered #70 a few months back titled ‘The Spirit of Sharing’ (which you can read for free on our Whiskywise blog) that dived into the scientific side of this, but even on a surface level, it’s just good fun. It’s an opportunity to discuss the flavours you’re tasting and identify the contrasting or comparative flavours and textures between each other. It also invites the opportunity to try other things you may not have considered, whether that be other whiskies, pairing with different foods or even trying cocktails with Society spirit. Not that there’s anything wrong with having a dram by yourself, but wherever possible I urge you all to share the spirit around and enjoy it with friends.
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A recent release from July, Cask 140.4 Throws you curve balls — was an absolute stunner at four years old, and a Texan single malt no-less! Better? No. Different? Yes. Each whisky from each region, distillery, and age statement carries with it its own quirks. Older whiskies tend to sit more on the delicate end of the spectrum, whereas younger expressions are a bit more forward and full-on (and I don’t just mean in ethanol value).
No3 Whisky regionality isn’t all it’s made out to be When the term ‘whisky regionality’ is used, people often think of the Highlands, Islay, Campbeltown etc… but it’s not just the Scotch whisky regions I’m going to be talking about here — world whisky can be REALLY good. I’ve been blessed to have the opportunities to try single cask expressions from places such as Taiwan, India and Wales, three countries I don’t think I ever would have considered trying whisky from before, and each time they blew me away — especially the Indian whisky I have to say; our releases from distillery 134 are seriously some of the best Society drams I’ve tasted.
No6
There are a lot of terms that some probably won’t be acquainted with when coming into the whisky world for the first time — but the best thing about our SMWS community is that everyone is eager to teach and learn, and one of the best ways to learn is by engaging with other members and ambassadors. I’ve learnt a lot on the job from Matt and other staff, but I’ve also learned quite a bit from members that I’ve had casual chats with at events, at the bar or even on our Facebook group. I’ve even started a whisky glossary bible with phrases and terminology to help moving forward. Understanding more about processes, cask maturation, flavours etc... isn’t just interesting, but it also heightens your drinking experience; for some, all of this background information helps to further your appreciation of what’s in the bottle. The journey is neverending and no one can truly know everything. If you’re new to The Scotch Malt Whisky Society — welcome, this really is the best whisky club on Earth. It’s continually expanding in all ways and forms and it’s only going to get better the larger we become. This Global Gathering month is all about sharing and coming together, I implore all members and friends to do exactly that, to share the spirit (in both meanings of the word), share the knowledge and share the journey. Grab a bottle of the Gathering cask this year — it’s all part of the experience.
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Everyone is eager to learn
Society bottlings are offered and sold through The Artisanal Spirits Company Pty Ltd, Liquor Licence LIQP770017428. 02 9974 3046 Mon-Fri 9.00am - 5.00pm AEST @SMWS_AUSTRALIA AUSTRALIANSMWS SMWS_AUS SMWS.COM.AUALLTOGETHERNOW
