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ELEGOO Mars Pro MSLA 3D Printer UV Photocuring LCD 3D Printer with Matrix UV LED Light Source, Built-in Activated Carbon,Off-Line Print 4.53in(L) x 2.56in(W) x 5.9in(H) Printing Size

4.6 out of 5 stars 2,457

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Brand ELEGOO
Item weight 16.5 Kilograms
Compatible devices Laptop, Smartphone
Power consumption 72 Watts
Connectivity technology USB

About this item

  • 【Higher Precision and Excellent Performance 】Z axis utilize linear guideway structure, which can achieve steadier motion and greatly enhanced moving accuracy to reduce the layer lines on the 3D printed model and make the surface much smoother. The set screws of the build plate are now upgraded to larger anti-slip hexagon socket screws, which have a more stable leveling result. CNC turning CD pattern on the build plate provides a much stronger adherence, especially when printing large 3D models.
  • 【 Refreshing and Safer Experience】Mars Pro comes with a silicone rubber seal that can be put on the cover to prevent the resin odor from leaking and keep them inside the cover. Built-in activated carbon can absorb and filter the resin odor before they are ventilated throughout the cooling fan, which gives you a refreshing and safer user experience. Bullet Point
  • 【Lighter, Larger and Easier 】Remodeled resin vat made of aluminum alloy is now 100gram lighter yet 100ml larger in capacity. The USB port is relocated to the front for your convenience of connectivity. Mars Pro uses a new user interface with a dark theme and a simple design.
  • 【Quality Prints and Consistent Success】Matrix light source consists of 28 50Watt UV LED lights that have uniform light emission, ensuring superior printing results, a more accurate printing size, and saves your time by 25% in layer exposure time. Mars Pro is the first resin-based 3D printer to use the sliced file of .ctb format, which reduces the file size by an average of 90% compared to .cbddlp format and significantly increases the printing success rate when printing bigger models.

Product details

  • Package dimensions ‏ : ‎ 56.6 x 28.6 x 28.4 cm; 16.5 kg
  • Manufacturer ‏ : ‎ ELEGOO
  • ASIN ‏ : ‎ B08CGVTFL2
  • Manufacturer reference ‏ : ‎ SG-EL-3D-041-B
  • Customer reviews:
    4.6 out of 5 stars 2,457

Product information

Technical Details

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ELEGOO

ELEGOO Mars Pro MSLA 3D Printer UV Photocuring LCD 3D Printer with Matrix UV LED Light Source, Built-in Activated Carbon,Off-Line Print 4.53in(L) x 2.56in(W) x 5.9in(H) Printing Size


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Important information

On-mode power consumption

72 watts


Ever since ELEGOO Mars launched from the first day, we have received a lots of compliments as well as critical reviews. What can we improve from ELEGOO Mars to make it more perfect and easy to use?

To learn from the great ideas and give back to the community, we now proudly present you the MARS PRO.


Finish kit includes:

Mars Pro 3D Printer *1

Build Platform *1 Resin Tank *1

Mask * 2; Glove *3

Metal Scraper *1

U Disk (2 GB) *1

Plastic Scraper *1

Funnel *10; UL Adapter 60W *1

Tool Kit *1; User Instruction *1

Measuring Cup *1; Backup Screws *1

Mars PRO Printing Specification

Technology: LCD UV Photocuring

Light Source: UV Integrated Light (wavelength 405nm)

XY Resolution: 0.047mm (2560*1440)

Z Axis Accuracy: 0.00125mm

Layer Thickness: 0.01-0.2mm; Printing Speed: 22.5mm/h

Power Requirements: 110-220V 50/60Hz 12V6A 72W

Printer Dimensions: 7.87in (L) * 7.87in (W) * 16.14in (H)

Build Volume: 4.53in (L) * 2.56in (W) * 5.9in (H)

Weight: 16.5Lbs (7.5Kg)

Slicer Software: Chitu Box Printing Method: USB off-line printing

Rubber Seal & USB Port

Mars Pro comes with a silicone rubber seal that can be put on the bottom of the cover to prevent the resin odor from leaking, in addition, thanks to the rubber seal, Mars Pro is in low noise when printing. What’s more, the USB port is relocated to the front for your convenience.

Matrix UV LED Light Source

Matrix light source consists of 28 50Watt UV LED lights that have uniform light emission, ensuring superior printing results, a more accurate printing size, and saves your time by 25% in layer exposure time. Now it only needs 45s to cure the first layer, and 6s for the others.

Upgraded User-friendly Design

Mars Pro uses a new user interface with a dark theme and simple design. Remodeled resin vat, made of aluminum alloy, is now 100gram lighter yet 100ml larger in capacity. Set screws of the building plate were changed to anti-slip hexagon socket screws.

CD Pattern Build Plate

Mars Pro adopts upgraded 0.15mm CD pattern surface which contributes to higher success rate. With higher adhesiveness, CD pattern help make the prints stick more tightly to the plate.

Build-in Active Carbon Filter

Built-in activated carbon can absorb and filter the irritant resin odor before they are ventilated throughout the cooling fan at a super adsorption rate, which gives you a fresh and safe user experience.

BGW15CA Linear Guideway

Z axis utilizes BGW15CA linear guideway structure with an accuracy of 0.02mm, which achieves steadier motion and greatly enhanced moving accuracy to reduce the layer lines on the 3D printed model and make the surface much smoother.

New Sliced File Format

Mars Pro is the first resin-based 3D printer to use the sliced file of .ctb format, which reduces the file size by an average of 90% compared to .cbddlp format and significantly increases the printing success rate when printing bigger models.

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Customer reviews

4.6 out of 5 stars
4.6 out of 5
2,457 global ratings

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No fuss
5 Stars
No fuss
The printer itself is as described, and once I managed to get the settings in the slocer software sorted out, it was churning out prints smoothly.
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Top reviews from Singapore

Reviewed in Singapore on 2 July 2021
Verified Purchase
This resin printer quality is just superb even at this price point. Full metal housing and quality parts. I’m really impressed coming from a season user of other printer brand. Some brand cost twice as much but still fall behind on both the print and build quality of this printer. Highly recommend to all beginner and season users.
Reviewed in Singapore on 19 August 2021
Verified Purchase
Customer service by ELEGOO is amazing - I read that it was good from other reviews, but experienced it myself when my FEP got punctured and the service personnel moved mountains to help me. Response was very quick and attended well to my issues. Also helped with troubleshooting and generally guiding a newcomer. Much recommended.
Reviewed in Singapore on 30 September 2021
Verified Purchase
Really great printer for reliable quality prints
Reviewed in Singapore on 17 September 2020
Verified Purchase
The printer itself is as described, and once I managed to get the settings in the slocer software sorted out, it was churning out prints smoothly.
Customer image
Poh
5.0 out of 5 stars No fuss
Reviewed in Singapore on 17 September 2020
The printer itself is as described, and once I managed to get the settings in the slocer software sorted out, it was churning out prints smoothly.
Images in this review
Customer image
Customer image

Top reviews from other countries

Kyle.J
5.0 out of 5 stars I'm blown away with the print quality!
Reviewed in the United States on 31 October 2019
Verified Purchase
The short version of this is YES, I'd buy another one and I love the Elegoo Mars!!!

I will first start by saying that I was hesitant to buy a resin printer because of the "mess", smell and other down sides I had previously heard about. I did my research to find the best fit for my needs and budget. The Elegoo Mars IS THE BEST! I'm blown away by the print detail and how easy it is to use. There's a slight learning curve and several things I don't like about resin printing compared to FDM printing but it's still worth the extra work and slight mess. I have several CR-10's and I will still use those for large prints but for small detailed prints, this is the machine to use!
First, the smell isn't nearly as bad as people said it was. It's probably best to have it in a shop or garage and not in your house because it does give off a slight resin odor especially the first time you use it but it's not that bad at all. I work around it all evening and it is never overwhelming or nauseating. After about 5 minutes in my shop I don't even notice it anymore. It does not smell any more than my FDM printers.
Second, it isn't that messy as I previously read in other reviews. You need a silicone nonstick mat to put down to avoid drips and spills but it's well worth the 20 bucks to get one.
Third, Did I mention yet the print detail is AMAZING! Most FDM printers print at a minimum of .1 and the Mars prints at a .05 layer height which means NO PRINT LINES to clean up!
Last, you do need to buy a UV light to cure your parts. I did a quick test and left several parts away from the sun to see how long the full cure time would be and they are still tacky to the touch after 3 days. Unfortunately we have had cloudy days since I bought the printer and I can't rely on the sun to cure my parts right now.

THE DOWNSIDES: These aren't a deal breaker for me but the print bed size is small but I knew that going in. That being said, it's still a good value for the bed size. If I wanted a bigger bed I'd have to go to a 1,700 dollar machine. It is a little more of a mess than an FDM printer. You do have to pour resin in a basin, wipe up the drip from the bottle that seems to happen every time and wipe off the bottle every time you fill the tray. I have only cleaned the tray once in the 3 days of constant printing because I had a mis-print that caused the resin to cure to the bottom of the resin tray. It was my design error and no fault of the printer. I scratched up the film on the bottom of the tray so I'm sure I'll have to replace that after numerous prints but I was expecting that anyway from previous research. The film typically is under 20 dollars to replace and you get several replacement pieces and the labor to do it seems pretty easy.
Cleaning the resin tank is simple and straight forward. 99% alcohol works great and you have to use alcohol to rinse off your printed parts but here's how I look at it.. I sometimes spend hours sanding prints off my CR-10 (that I love) and now I'm spending minutes cleaning up small resin drips and occasionally cleaning parts. It's a good trade off on time.
I HIGHLY recommend this printer and do plan to buy an even bigger one eventually. This thing is amazing! I'm very pleased with Elegoo.
Customer image
Kyle.J
5.0 out of 5 stars I'm blown away with the print quality!
Reviewed in the United States on 31 October 2019
The short version of this is YES, I'd buy another one and I love the Elegoo Mars!!!

I will first start by saying that I was hesitant to buy a resin printer because of the "mess", smell and other down sides I had previously heard about. I did my research to find the best fit for my needs and budget. The Elegoo Mars IS THE BEST! I'm blown away by the print detail and how easy it is to use. There's a slight learning curve and several things I don't like about resin printing compared to FDM printing but it's still worth the extra work and slight mess. I have several CR-10's and I will still use those for large prints but for small detailed prints, this is the machine to use!
First, the smell isn't nearly as bad as people said it was. It's probably best to have it in a shop or garage and not in your house because it does give off a slight resin odor especially the first time you use it but it's not that bad at all. I work around it all evening and it is never overwhelming or nauseating. After about 5 minutes in my shop I don't even notice it anymore. It does not smell any more than my FDM printers.
Second, it isn't that messy as I previously read in other reviews. You need a silicone nonstick mat to put down to avoid drips and spills but it's well worth the 20 bucks to get one.
Third, Did I mention yet the print detail is AMAZING! Most FDM printers print at a minimum of .1 and the Mars prints at a .05 layer height which means NO PRINT LINES to clean up!
Last, you do need to buy a UV light to cure your parts. I did a quick test and left several parts away from the sun to see how long the full cure time would be and they are still tacky to the touch after 3 days. Unfortunately we have had cloudy days since I bought the printer and I can't rely on the sun to cure my parts right now.

THE DOWNSIDES: These aren't a deal breaker for me but the print bed size is small but I knew that going in. That being said, it's still a good value for the bed size. If I wanted a bigger bed I'd have to go to a 1,700 dollar machine. It is a little more of a mess than an FDM printer. You do have to pour resin in a basin, wipe up the drip from the bottle that seems to happen every time and wipe off the bottle every time you fill the tray. I have only cleaned the tray once in the 3 days of constant printing because I had a mis-print that caused the resin to cure to the bottom of the resin tray. It was my design error and no fault of the printer. I scratched up the film on the bottom of the tray so I'm sure I'll have to replace that after numerous prints but I was expecting that anyway from previous research. The film typically is under 20 dollars to replace and you get several replacement pieces and the labor to do it seems pretty easy.
Cleaning the resin tank is simple and straight forward. 99% alcohol works great and you have to use alcohol to rinse off your printed parts but here's how I look at it.. I sometimes spend hours sanding prints off my CR-10 (that I love) and now I'm spending minutes cleaning up small resin drips and occasionally cleaning parts. It's a good trade off on time.
I HIGHLY recommend this printer and do plan to buy an even bigger one eventually. This thing is amazing! I'm very pleased with Elegoo.
Images in this review
Customer image Customer image
Customer imageCustomer image
J. Axton
5.0 out of 5 stars Not flawless, but an outstanding value
Reviewed in the United States on 18 February 2020
Verified Purchase
This is a good choice if you're starting out with 3D printing. Out of the box, you'll get solid results on your first print run, and it's surprising what the thing is capable once you really know what you're doing. There are some design flaws to overcome, which weren't mentioned in some of the other reviews I read, but nothing that would stop me from recommending this machine.

The main issue with this printer is inaccuracy in first several layers due to the way the Z-axis homes using an optical switch. The part on the Z axis that breaks the beam on the switch is a few mm too short, leading to a buildup in pressure that compresses a few components in the stepper and lead screw assembly. As the printer extends the Z-axis during the beginning of the print, the stepper motor turns, but the build plate doesn't move the measured value as the spring pressure is releasing, so the first several layers are compressed. The default firmware does not allow the user to manually set the Z=0 location, despite providing a menu option for it. There are a few easy fixes for this: there's a printable file for an adjustable beam breaker to set the Z=0 location manually. You can also just apply a little electrical tape to the existing part to extend it a few mm. Or, you can edit the firmware by removing one semicolon to enable the user setting of the Z=0 location. There are also reports on the forums of people being shipped modified stepper assemblies without compressible parts from Elegoo if they asked nicely. The most elaborate solution is to modify the assembly yourself. My results ended up being most reliable when I manually set the Z home to compress the spring on the ball joint of the build plate about 2mm.

The other issue I experienced was the FEP film adhering to a tiny resin fingerprint I left on the LCD during a tank cleaning. I pulled the tank forward and the force was enough to rip the LCD right out of the housing and tear the ribbon cable that connects it to the motherboard. The LCD is only attached with a few small strips of adhesive tape. The solution to this problem is to be meticulous about leaving absolutely no traces of resin on the bottom of the FEP sheet and the LCD. When removing the tank, loosen the screws that hold the tank in place all the way and lift the tank UP before pulling it forward.

Other issues with this printer are common to every other printer of this design, like smell, mess, and eventual failure of the LCD screen. I will say the LCD is fairly easy to replace, and the smell is nicely mitigated by the fully-enclosed build area of this printer. I'm also happy to report that Elegoo responded quickly and shipped me a new LCD after my fingerprint mishap. They really seem to stand by their product, and it sounds like the pro version of this printer will have the Z-axis problem solved out of the box. This printer really opened the door to the hobby for me, and I've had a great deal of fun with it. Having solved the issues I mentioned earlier, I'm getting stellar quality, accurate prints from parts stuck right to the build plate.
Customer image
J. Axton
5.0 out of 5 stars Not flawless, but an outstanding value
Reviewed in the United States on 18 February 2020
This is a good choice if you're starting out with 3D printing. Out of the box, you'll get solid results on your first print run, and it's surprising what the thing is capable once you really know what you're doing. There are some design flaws to overcome, which weren't mentioned in some of the other reviews I read, but nothing that would stop me from recommending this machine.

The main issue with this printer is inaccuracy in first several layers due to the way the Z-axis homes using an optical switch. The part on the Z axis that breaks the beam on the switch is a few mm too short, leading to a buildup in pressure that compresses a few components in the stepper and lead screw assembly. As the printer extends the Z-axis during the beginning of the print, the stepper motor turns, but the build plate doesn't move the measured value as the spring pressure is releasing, so the first several layers are compressed. The default firmware does not allow the user to manually set the Z=0 location, despite providing a menu option for it. There are a few easy fixes for this: there's a printable file for an adjustable beam breaker to set the Z=0 location manually. You can also just apply a little electrical tape to the existing part to extend it a few mm. Or, you can edit the firmware by removing one semicolon to enable the user setting of the Z=0 location. There are also reports on the forums of people being shipped modified stepper assemblies without compressible parts from Elegoo if they asked nicely. The most elaborate solution is to modify the assembly yourself. My results ended up being most reliable when I manually set the Z home to compress the spring on the ball joint of the build plate about 2mm.

The other issue I experienced was the FEP film adhering to a tiny resin fingerprint I left on the LCD during a tank cleaning. I pulled the tank forward and the force was enough to rip the LCD right out of the housing and tear the ribbon cable that connects it to the motherboard. The LCD is only attached with a few small strips of adhesive tape. The solution to this problem is to be meticulous about leaving absolutely no traces of resin on the bottom of the FEP sheet and the LCD. When removing the tank, loosen the screws that hold the tank in place all the way and lift the tank UP before pulling it forward.

Other issues with this printer are common to every other printer of this design, like smell, mess, and eventual failure of the LCD screen. I will say the LCD is fairly easy to replace, and the smell is nicely mitigated by the fully-enclosed build area of this printer. I'm also happy to report that Elegoo responded quickly and shipped me a new LCD after my fingerprint mishap. They really seem to stand by their product, and it sounds like the pro version of this printer will have the Z-axis problem solved out of the box. This printer really opened the door to the hobby for me, and I've had a great deal of fun with it. Having solved the issues I mentioned earlier, I'm getting stellar quality, accurate prints from parts stuck right to the build plate.
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Kaushiik Rajkumar
1.0 out of 5 stars Defective printing.
Reviewed in India on 13 September 2020
Verified Purchase
There is a hole happening in all the models.
Customer image
Kaushiik Rajkumar
1.0 out of 5 stars Defective printing.
Reviewed in India on 13 September 2020
There is a hole happening in all the models.
Images in this review
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Customer imageCustomer imageCustomer image
4 people found this helpful
Report
Samuel Koepnick
5.0 out of 5 stars Surprisingly Usable
Reviewed in the United States on 7 March 2020
Verified Purchase
I've been wanting to get into this for awhile. The theory behind it is simple. Build plate moves upward while the LCD display at the bottom shines ultraviolet light (405nm) which polymerizes the bottom layer of resin in the reservoir. Wait 6 or so seconds, raise by 0.5mm and repeat. It seemed so simple that I went back and forth between simply building my own out of cell phone remnants and an Arduino. In the end I opted to buy this, telling myself that the worst case scenario was that I'd salvage it for parts that I'd need anyway for rolling my own.

I'm honestly not sure what I was expecting. Possibly a simple aluminum shell with off-the-shelf components and a USB port. Let's be honest here, if you're looking at this you're probably a maker and are likely way more interested in the output than the aesthetics of the machine itself. But the thing is very professional looking. If you saw it in a university lab or a prototyping facility I doubt you'd bat an eye.

First thing. The package arrived on time and in immaculate condition. I have no idea who actually is responsible for packing those things, but the styrofoam was so tight around the components that I had to use a tiny punch to break the vacuum that had formed. So, good job. The lone exception was a little plastic beaker that broke after it fell a few feet in a cat-related mishap. It was going to be recycled anyway so I really didn't care.

If you're into miniature style games, this is something that you could use to hit the ground running. There's a ton of models on Thingiverse that should print just fine. They even pre-load a number on the USB drive that they ship.

Since this is my first foray into this kind of printing, I wanted to write down a few notes. If you're a newcomer to this you may find them useful too.

1) The slicing software (takes your 3D model and outputs it in a way that the printer can interpret) is free, but not open source. I usually try to stick with FOSS, but Chitubox runs flawlessly on Linux (Wayland even!) which is really enough to make me happy at this point. If the authors decide to start charging, I have zero doubt that the open source community will fill the void.

2) The printing process is slower than that of a traditional FDM (Prusa-type) 3D printer. The 50mm tall "hello, world" rook model took about 4 hours to print at a layer height of 0.05mm. Lowering that to a coarser 0.075mm brings that down to about 2 hours. The printer, in theory, can go as fine as 0.01mm, but I haven't gone that far, yet.

3) The resin is nasty stuff. The actual Elegoo branded resin seems to be quite a bit less noxious than the other stuff that I've picked up. But no matter what, you don't want to get any of it on you. I had considered a bigger model but in hindsight am glad I went with this one. A bigger reservoir means dealing with larger volumes of this stuff.

4) The build plate and the reservoir are good and solid. You can feel the heft.

Getting Started

What's in the box isn't enough to get you started. You'll also need to pick up a bottle of resin. In theory that's that you need...But responsible making generally entails keeping all of your eyes, fingers, and skin intact at the end of the day. Here's my list of the most important safety equipment to have with this.

Gloves - They send a few with the device. They're quite small. Even if you have hands tiny enough to fit into them, you'll still want a bix box. Seriously. Don't try and save on gloves. The resin is as bad as honey when it comes to sticking to any surface.

Goggles - They do something!

Dust mask - They send a few N95 masks. Sadly, at the time of writing, masks are being hoarded by panic-stricken people who believe that a dust mask will keep a virus out of their systems.

Perishables:

Resin - Obviously

FEP film - This forms the bottom of the reservoir and is solidly clamped in place. It needs to be as clear as possible in order for the shapes to be nice and crisp. It feels like the one that comes with the printer will last for awhile, but had I known that I may need these in the future, I probably would have picked some up with the initial order.

Solvent - Used to wash non-polymerized resin from a model after the printing is complete. Also used as a general cleaner for the build plate and reservoir. Isopropyl alcohol is what's recommended. But since that's being hoarded by the same folks hoarding dust masks you may need to find alternatives. High proof Everclear, Xylene and mineral spirits come to mind. I've found that using a ultrasonic jewelry cleaner with distilled water works really well. But I've only tried it a few times. Your results may vary. I'd also recommend buying a box or two of eyeglass/lens cleaners. Good for a very soft, streakless spot clean.

Funnels - Useful for reclaiming unused resin from the reservoir. The conical filters that they send DO NOT fit properly into the resin bottles. Don't try to wing it. Learn from my mistakes. An oil funnel with a cotton ball stuffed in as a filter seems to work fine.

Ultraviolet light bulb - Good for curing in a hurry. In a pinch, the sun will also work.

Shop towels - Sopping up resin

Extra Credit

Crap that I already had lying around that turned out to be really useful.

* A garage

* Small fume hood

* Multiple borosilicate/Pyrex casserole dishes for multi-stage washing

* Mason jars for reclaiming solvent

* Magnetic stir plate

* Aforementioned ultrasonic jewelry cleaner

* Stainless steel mesh for straining

* Flush clippers for snipping model supports

That's it for now. I'll try and update as I try more prints and discover more things that I wish I had known.
Customer image
Samuel Koepnick
5.0 out of 5 stars Surprisingly Usable
Reviewed in the United States on 7 March 2020
I've been wanting to get into this for awhile. The theory behind it is simple. Build plate moves upward while the LCD display at the bottom shines ultraviolet light (405nm) which polymerizes the bottom layer of resin in the reservoir. Wait 6 or so seconds, raise by 0.5mm and repeat. It seemed so simple that I went back and forth between simply building my own out of cell phone remnants and an Arduino. In the end I opted to buy this, telling myself that the worst case scenario was that I'd salvage it for parts that I'd need anyway for rolling my own.

I'm honestly not sure what I was expecting. Possibly a simple aluminum shell with off-the-shelf components and a USB port. Let's be honest here, if you're looking at this you're probably a maker and are likely way more interested in the output than the aesthetics of the machine itself. But the thing is very professional looking. If you saw it in a university lab or a prototyping facility I doubt you'd bat an eye.

First thing. The package arrived on time and in immaculate condition. I have no idea who actually is responsible for packing those things, but the styrofoam was so tight around the components that I had to use a tiny punch to break the vacuum that had formed. So, good job. The lone exception was a little plastic beaker that broke after it fell a few feet in a cat-related mishap. It was going to be recycled anyway so I really didn't care.

If you're into miniature style games, this is something that you could use to hit the ground running. There's a ton of models on Thingiverse that should print just fine. They even pre-load a number on the USB drive that they ship.

Since this is my first foray into this kind of printing, I wanted to write down a few notes. If you're a newcomer to this you may find them useful too.

1) The slicing software (takes your 3D model and outputs it in a way that the printer can interpret) is free, but not open source. I usually try to stick with FOSS, but Chitubox runs flawlessly on Linux (Wayland even!) which is really enough to make me happy at this point. If the authors decide to start charging, I have zero doubt that the open source community will fill the void.

2) The printing process is slower than that of a traditional FDM (Prusa-type) 3D printer. The 50mm tall "hello, world" rook model took about 4 hours to print at a layer height of 0.05mm. Lowering that to a coarser 0.075mm brings that down to about 2 hours. The printer, in theory, can go as fine as 0.01mm, but I haven't gone that far, yet.

3) The resin is nasty stuff. The actual Elegoo branded resin seems to be quite a bit less noxious than the other stuff that I've picked up. But no matter what, you don't want to get any of it on you. I had considered a bigger model but in hindsight am glad I went with this one. A bigger reservoir means dealing with larger volumes of this stuff.

4) The build plate and the reservoir are good and solid. You can feel the heft.

Getting Started

What's in the box isn't enough to get you started. You'll also need to pick up a bottle of resin. In theory that's that you need...But responsible making generally entails keeping all of your eyes, fingers, and skin intact at the end of the day. Here's my list of the most important safety equipment to have with this.

Gloves - They send a few with the device. They're quite small. Even if you have hands tiny enough to fit into them, you'll still want a bix box. Seriously. Don't try and save on gloves. The resin is as bad as honey when it comes to sticking to any surface.

Goggles - They do something!

Dust mask - They send a few N95 masks. Sadly, at the time of writing, masks are being hoarded by panic-stricken people who believe that a dust mask will keep a virus out of their systems.

Perishables:

Resin - Obviously

FEP film - This forms the bottom of the reservoir and is solidly clamped in place. It needs to be as clear as possible in order for the shapes to be nice and crisp. It feels like the one that comes with the printer will last for awhile, but had I known that I may need these in the future, I probably would have picked some up with the initial order.

Solvent - Used to wash non-polymerized resin from a model after the printing is complete. Also used as a general cleaner for the build plate and reservoir. Isopropyl alcohol is what's recommended. But since that's being hoarded by the same folks hoarding dust masks you may need to find alternatives. High proof Everclear, Xylene and mineral spirits come to mind. I've found that using a ultrasonic jewelry cleaner with distilled water works really well. But I've only tried it a few times. Your results may vary. I'd also recommend buying a box or two of eyeglass/lens cleaners. Good for a very soft, streakless spot clean.

Funnels - Useful for reclaiming unused resin from the reservoir. The conical filters that they send DO NOT fit properly into the resin bottles. Don't try to wing it. Learn from my mistakes. An oil funnel with a cotton ball stuffed in as a filter seems to work fine.

Ultraviolet light bulb - Good for curing in a hurry. In a pinch, the sun will also work.

Shop towels - Sopping up resin

Extra Credit

Crap that I already had lying around that turned out to be really useful.

* A garage

* Small fume hood

* Multiple borosilicate/Pyrex casserole dishes for multi-stage washing

* Mason jars for reclaiming solvent

* Magnetic stir plate

* Aforementioned ultrasonic jewelry cleaner

* Stainless steel mesh for straining

* Flush clippers for snipping model supports

That's it for now. I'll try and update as I try more prints and discover more things that I wish I had known.
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Scott Presbrey
5.0 out of 5 stars Impressive entry-level resin printer for the price!
Reviewed in the United States on 19 February 2019
Verified Purchase
I ordered the Elegoo Mars around the first of the year. My experience has been positive overall. The support is very good, and I found that using the facebook Elegoo Mars group is very helpful as well. Some pros and cons:
Pros:
-Very easy to set-up and use (software is relatively simple to use). Far fewer settings to adjust vs FDM printers (only 5 or 6 settings really make a difference in the end product)
-Less finicky than FDM printers (not as susceptible to print fails from factors like first layer adhesion/settings). It's very forgiving.
-Incredible detail and resolution
-Good support
-Resin is ideal for painting
-Relatively low maintenance

Cons:
-A bit messy
-A bit smelly (not as bad as people mention IMO).
-A bit slow. Not a true con, because DLP laser resin printers are expensive, commercial grade printers for higher volume application.
-Elegoo resin sticks to everything and transfers easily. 99% isopropyl/ethyl are the only readily available solvents to remove resin from surfaces. (Tip: after printing, rinse with 99% isopropyl or ethyl alcohol, then water, then alcohol and water again.)
-Quality control: I had to return first 2 units. First one had an issue where the rising and lowering metal plate would not detach from FEP during first several layers. SOLUTION: add a piece of painters tape to corner of LCD screen, under FEP film, but do not cover active pixel area! (Issue is a vacuum is created that cannot detach).....Second printer had to be returned because units are susceptible to a part knocking loose during shipment, which will cause the UV lamp to turn off randomly. I found tapping the side of the unit helps temporarily, but it is shorting out. Support has a solution to fix it yourself. Just wrap it in an insulator that doesn't conduct electricity (I deferred to the amazon exchange process).

Some tips:
The printer has a relatively easy learning curve. Default settings in Chitubox 1.3 are ok, but not ideal. For Elegoo transparent resin, I use a minimum of 8 seconds per layer at 0.05mm height. For opaque resins, I use 11-12 seconds per layer at 0.05mm. As a default, I use 8 bottom layers at 30 seconds each. I don't change settings for different layer heights. For most models, especially ones with large internal volume, be sure to add a drain hole in the software or manually with a drill bit after printing. If you drill too small a hole, another hole to let air may be necessary.
-Always check the resin reservoir after printing and especially after fails for resin that is stuck to the TPE film and loose in the leftover resin. They include filters for this.
-When picking models and preparing a print, you should use any empty area of the print bed for additional models. The only thing affecting print speed is the height of your models. You can print as many models simultaneously as you can fit on the bed without affecting print speed as long as you don't add a taller model. (This is not the case with FDM printers).
-Get a nail curing lamp or put your models in the sun to cure for 30 min-1 hour for increased strength. Too long will change the color of some resins (like elegoo transparent).
-Try the transparent resin at least once. Transparent resin prints the fastest and you can also calibrate and level your bed without having to empty the resin and clean it (you can see through to the LCD screen to align the ballast without removing the resin).
--Another reason, is that transparent resin allows you to see the internal structure of your model. You can see the infill grid and see if any resin is trapped. I didn't understand the importance of a drain hole in some models until I used transparent resin and saw liquid resin moving freely in a finished model.

Despite needing to make an exchange, my overall experience has been very positive. For $500, I think it is a great deal relative to other resin printers with similar abilities and performance. I would definitely make the purchase again.
Customer image
Scott Presbrey
5.0 out of 5 stars Impressive entry-level resin printer for the price!
Reviewed in the United States on 19 February 2019
I ordered the Elegoo Mars around the first of the year. My experience has been positive overall. The support is very good, and I found that using the facebook Elegoo Mars group is very helpful as well. Some pros and cons:
Pros:
-Very easy to set-up and use (software is relatively simple to use). Far fewer settings to adjust vs FDM printers (only 5 or 6 settings really make a difference in the end product)
-Less finicky than FDM printers (not as susceptible to print fails from factors like first layer adhesion/settings). It's very forgiving.
-Incredible detail and resolution
-Good support
-Resin is ideal for painting
-Relatively low maintenance

Cons:
-A bit messy
-A bit smelly (not as bad as people mention IMO).
-A bit slow. Not a true con, because DLP laser resin printers are expensive, commercial grade printers for higher volume application.
-Elegoo resin sticks to everything and transfers easily. 99% isopropyl/ethyl are the only readily available solvents to remove resin from surfaces. (Tip: after printing, rinse with 99% isopropyl or ethyl alcohol, then water, then alcohol and water again.)
-Quality control: I had to return first 2 units. First one had an issue where the rising and lowering metal plate would not detach from FEP during first several layers. SOLUTION: add a piece of painters tape to corner of LCD screen, under FEP film, but do not cover active pixel area! (Issue is a vacuum is created that cannot detach).....Second printer had to be returned because units are susceptible to a part knocking loose during shipment, which will cause the UV lamp to turn off randomly. I found tapping the side of the unit helps temporarily, but it is shorting out. Support has a solution to fix it yourself. Just wrap it in an insulator that doesn't conduct electricity (I deferred to the amazon exchange process).

Some tips:
The printer has a relatively easy learning curve. Default settings in Chitubox 1.3 are ok, but not ideal. For Elegoo transparent resin, I use a minimum of 8 seconds per layer at 0.05mm height. For opaque resins, I use 11-12 seconds per layer at 0.05mm. As a default, I use 8 bottom layers at 30 seconds each. I don't change settings for different layer heights. For most models, especially ones with large internal volume, be sure to add a drain hole in the software or manually with a drill bit after printing. If you drill too small a hole, another hole to let air may be necessary.
-Always check the resin reservoir after printing and especially after fails for resin that is stuck to the TPE film and loose in the leftover resin. They include filters for this.
-When picking models and preparing a print, you should use any empty area of the print bed for additional models. The only thing affecting print speed is the height of your models. You can print as many models simultaneously as you can fit on the bed without affecting print speed as long as you don't add a taller model. (This is not the case with FDM printers).
-Get a nail curing lamp or put your models in the sun to cure for 30 min-1 hour for increased strength. Too long will change the color of some resins (like elegoo transparent).
-Try the transparent resin at least once. Transparent resin prints the fastest and you can also calibrate and level your bed without having to empty the resin and clean it (you can see through to the LCD screen to align the ballast without removing the resin).
--Another reason, is that transparent resin allows you to see the internal structure of your model. You can see the infill grid and see if any resin is trapped. I didn't understand the importance of a drain hole in some models until I used transparent resin and saw liquid resin moving freely in a finished model.

Despite needing to make an exchange, my overall experience has been very positive. For $500, I think it is a great deal relative to other resin printers with similar abilities and performance. I would definitely make the purchase again.
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