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DIY: Build a No-Weld Fishing Sand Spike That Will Stand Up to the Surf

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I posted an aluminum-welded rod holder a few months back and it received a lot of positive attention. The one problem noted by some was that welding aluminum is not accessible to all. So…I modified the design to use some very basic tools (in fact, since its aluminum, you probably could make this with a hacksaw) and attach with screw connections.

Materials Needed

  • 1.5” x 1.5”, 1/8” wall, Aluminum Angle Iron
  • 2”, 1/8” wall, Aluminum Round Tube
  • 1/4″ 3″ Button Head Stainless Bolt
  • 1/4″ 3/4″ Flat Head Stainless Bolt
  • 1/4″ Nylock Nut (2)
  • Plasti-Dip
  • 1/4 20 Tap and Die Set

Step 1: Cut Length of Angle Iron

Cut a 36” piece of angle iron.

Step 2: Cut the Bottom Rod Holder

Cut a 4” section of 2” aluminum tube to serve as the bottom holder for the rod butt. Remove the burr from the edges.

Step 3: Cut the Top of the Rod Holder

Cut a section of 2” round tube to at a — angle to hold the top of the rod. You want the thin edge to be about 1/8 – 1/4″. Remove the burr from the edges.

Step 4: Cut End of Iron at Point

Using a angle grinder, cut each wall of the end of one side of the 36” angle iron at a 45deg angle to form a point to drive into the ground. Remove the burr from the edges.

Step 5: Drill A 1/4″ Hole through Top Piece

Drill a 1/4″ hole through the top piece of tube (the piece cut at an angle). Drill the hole roughly in the center of longer side.

The piece is cut at an angle to allow this piece to be attached to the angle iron without obstructing the butt of the rod sliding into the hole.

Step 6: Countersink the Top Hole

Using a countersink, ensure the flathead screw fit flushly into the hole so the rod butt is not obstructed.

Step 7: Drill and Tap A 1/4 20 Hole In the Top of the Stake

Test fit the top angle piece and mark the location where you need to drill your hole to attach it to the stake. Make you mark on the inside bend and drill a hole with a #7 bit.

Tap the hole using a 1/4 20 tap. Note: you could drill another through hole as you will still use a nylock nut to attach, but I like the security of the tapped hole and tapping aluminum is fairly easy.

Step 8: Attach the Top Tube to the Stake

Using the 3/4″ bolt, screw the top section to the stake and finish off securing with a nyloc nut on the back side.

Step 9: Drill the Attachment Hole for the Bottom Tube

Make a mark in the inner bend of the stake 14 3/8″ from the end of the top end of the top tube. You can adjust this mark depending on your rod butt size.

Drill a hole with a #7 bit and tap the hole using a 1/4 20 tap. Note: as mentioned before, you could drill another through hole as you will still use a nyloc nut to attach.

Step 10: Drill A Through Hole in the Bottom Tube

Make a mark 1 3/8″ from one side of the bottom tube. Use the seam of the tube to find center and drill a 1/4″ hole straight through both sides. Deburr the hole.

Step 11: Attach the Top Tube to the Stake

Using the 3″ bolt, attach the bottom tube to the stake and finish attach with a nyloc nut.

Step 8: Protect the Top of the Holder

Dip the top of the holder in plasti-dip and let dry.

The Finished Product

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